Now that im into logging full time I really need to upgrade from this POS poulanpro 46cc 20" bar saw. My question whats a good CC motor to have and a good length bar to have on a Pro saw?? I was thinking 80-90cc and a 28" bar what does everyone think?
80-90cc and 28" bar,now thats what I call jumpin' in with both feet !!! If you can lug the weight from tree to tree then I guess you should abide by the "there's no replacement for displacement" rule 8).
Oh yeah, I'm not a logger so don't take my comments seriously ;D
Steve
Quote from: PA_LOGGER on March 02, 2009, 08:31:20 AM
............ I was thinking 80-90cc and a 28" bar what does everyone think?
"Everyone" won't think that ::) ::)
Is your 20" bar too short for the size trees you are expecting to fell?
I'd be thinkin, and suggesting, the Stihl MS361. 8)
What size timber will you be working with. With all due respect, I surmise you have limited experience logging. Get in with experienced people and proper training like the Game of Logging.
I have not dealt with the pro-level Echos, but based on my experience with a small one, I don't think they have the quality of a Husky or Stihl. I will not buy another one.
I have the stihl 361 and really enjoy it. It has good power and is little enough to cut the whole day with. I am currently running a 20" on it and would really go any bigger then that on any hard wood trees. I would say to look at the 441, 460 or even the 660 if you want to run that larger bar. I would even recomend looking at Jonsered saws. I have a couple of friends who own them and love them.
Ive been doing it off and on my life. 18years old now working for a good company the 20" bar isnt bad for most of our trees a little bigger wont heart thats why im thinking 24" or 28" now im not all to sure what CC i should get though my cuz runs a 80cc saw with a 28" bar, but do you need that much?
Ive been looking at 2 huskys a 357xp or 372xp! any thoughts?
If you want a saw like that, look at a stihl 460. A lot of guys here including me are big fans. If you are logging full time, you will just have to get used to packing a saw the size you need for the job. Here on the west coast, many a faller has spent his 6 hours packing a stihl 066 with a 3' bar in ground so steep you have to hold on with one hand. That's the job, and that's that. We are no tougher here than you guys there, and you will get used to it if you aren't already. You will not be sorry running a powerful saw all day if you are trying to put wood on the ground. Good luck, be careful.
PA Logger check the for sale board here I have practically a new 372XP there
What size stuff you cutting? If you are thinning, go medium 372/or 460's, if you are felling larger hardwoods a 660 would be good. Stick with sthil or husky, maybe a dolmar if you have a good dealer. I agree you pack it all day and you get use to it. Do not skimp on your saw.
alll of the wood we cut is average size no really big over groth around here a few here and there thats about it. I dont want to skimp on the saw trhats why i was thinking of going big. HAHA
Well there are those guys who like BIG.... :D :D :D
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Quote from: PA_LOGGER on March 02, 2009, 02:05:01 PM
alll of the wood we cut is average size no really big over groth around here a few here and there thats about it. I dont want to skimp on the saw trhats why i was thinking of going big. HAHA
"Average size" means something quite different in different parts of the country. If you aren't Regularly cutting trees over 24", a 28" bar can be more trouble than it's worth. Even a 20" bar would be overkill for me most of the time, since "average" for me is under 16". On the occasion that a 16" bar won't go all the way through, I just go at it from both sides. If I know I'm going to be working a stand of larger diameters, I'd put on a bigger bar. But that's just me. YMMV
John Mc
I run a 80cc Dolmar with a 28" bar, and I'm Harry Homeowner. But thats just because of the size of trees we have. We have had to walk away from some, just not enough saw to take them down safely, but up to 50" dia, no worries. The PS7900 would actually be better balanced with a 24" bar, but it runs the 28" no worries.
If you only need a 20" bar, a good 60cc saw like a MS361 is ideal. It's lighter and will cut the smaller stuff just as well as a heavier saw.
70cc works good with a 24" bar if you want a little more, and the Husky 372 is one of the best in that range.
But hauling more saw than you need through the woods all day is just hard work and probably slows you down in the end.
Ian
I think Ive got it down to the 372xp g or 385xp g not sure if the 10cc more is needed in the 385, but its still there the 372 should take care of all of the trees around here most are on average 14"-20" I also think im going with a 24" bar. Thanks for all the imput.
There's a fair weight difference between the two, but you're a big, young guy so you can handle it. ;)
I'd pick the 372 with 24" over the 385 for trees in that range. Then again, if that wasn't enough, I'd skip the 385 and go to the 395. 8)
pa logger what part of pa are you in ive been in the business for awhile u should have a smaller saw like the 346xp and then go big 395xp or the 385 for those ocastional big trees i only use huskys i prefer a 357xp with 18 inch bar but i do like my 346 and for the big guys 395 with 25inch bar and 32inch bar let me know what part of pa your in im in northeast
northeast here too. Thanks for the help
what part of north east im about 15min outside of honesdale in pleasant mount
just to let you know your not gonna want to be lugging around a heavy saw
I'll second that. No need for more saw than you use, and there arent too many trees you cant handle with a 20 inch bar. I will take a big saw, spinning a big sprocket, with a short bar, over a long bar any day. Amount of limbing and dicing you do in hardwood tops makes a lot of difference. 372xp, 20 inch bar, 8 tooth sprocket, on well filed square chisel and you can hammer down. I run a 460 more often than not, that same setup, and with Game of Logging techniques like all the mills here want anyway you can do trees well over 30 inches DBH. Chain speed and sharpness will make you a more productive faller than just buying the biggest saw you can get ahold of!!
I run a 385xp with a 24" bar, and I am very happy with the power. Ther is a weight difference, but I don't notice it. I'm a big guy though.
There is quite a difference between buying the biggest saw you can get ahold of and one big enough to do the job. A medium size saw with a 24" bar will do a lot of work. It can also handle a little bigger bar when needed. If you are going to be a full time cutter, you'll want PLENTY of grunt.
I wont argue the needing grunt, but grunt is relative to timber. A 357 husky or 361 stihl has plenty of grunt in 12 inch spruce and fir. 14-20 inch size class timber is not all that big, so a 372 should have enough grunt. ANd they have a buncher, so most of the work is probably limbing anyway. Not trying to start a war, there is no right answer to the what saw is best question anyway ;)
I still have a good 372 xp
Hickory, I thought you were going to put that 372 on ebay? You could have sold it by now.
Rocky i thouht id try here a week I have it posted in the for sale
My 385xp wieght 23# full og gas and oil, a little more than advertised I think, cuts good. I sure think about the 7900 Dolmar which cuts just as good and wieghts 3# less full. Steve
ladylake this is for you do you know anyone that has that ps7900 dolmar i was thinking on buying that saw but dont know much about it i dont need another saw since i have 5 main saws but nothing else to spend my money on lol
If you want a solid all day saw I would recommend the Dolmar 7900. I have been using it steady after my recent purchase for the past two weeks and I have been very impressed. This weekend my brother inlaw was using his 066 Sthil (92cc) with a 24 inch bar and the 7900 was close in performance. Likewise, after half a day he was dragging with the weight and the 7900 was fine. I use a 20 inch bar which can be changed out with with my larger Husky bars as they use the same mount when needed. I have used a 372xp at times and it is a great saw but the Dolmar weight/cc ratio was too good not to give it a go. However, that 372xp from Old Hickory seems a good deal and I also own two other Husky saws and they perform well.
Love my 7900 too, just make sure you have a dealer around that can get parts. I lucked out that there are a few shops carrying them now so new filters and an occasional vibration mount arent too hard to come by. Bars are same as Husky mount so thats easy.
Quote from: 567paloggger on March 03, 2009, 11:49:33 AM
ladylake this is for you do you know anyone that has that ps7900 dolmar i was thinking on buying that saw but dont know much about it i dont need another saw since i have 5 main saws but nothing else to spend my money on lol
[/quote
]My friend has one that I've run side by side with my 385xp, cutting speed is real close but at 3# lighter full with the same bar and chain I'd take the Dolmar any day. Steve
Hi,
I've got two 372's an old Stihl 36 and a newer 660. All four of them can cut quite well. I also have medium sized Makita (Sachs Dolmar) and Solo, as well as smaller Echo's and Stihls for limbing and preparing blanks for turning. I would choose one of the Husky's or Stihls depending on where you buy it and whether or not you can get it repaired or serviced easily enough. The larger Solo's are great, but dealers for these and for the Sachs Dolmars are quite rare in my two areas (central SC) and S/Central Virginia. Not being all that mechanically gifted, dealer availability is important to me as well as parts availability.
Good Luck,
HB
I've got a Husky 372 I run with 20" and 24" bar and a Stihl 361 with a 20" bar. I am happy with both saws. Just bucked a 24" white oak for a friend today. He was impressed, said it would have taken him all day. We have flat ground so weight isn't a big concern. I can also quit if I get tired. ;D
a husky 372 XP with a 20" bar will do you just fine great for topping and with the 20in bar you can still fall up to a 40" tree, i use huskys all day great saw i have 372 xp 20" and 575 xp 20" each a great saw. IF your buying new get the new husky 576 more improved then the 575s
I am NOT a logger but It has been said that "there aint a tree in Maine that can't be cut with an 18 inch bar" and I cant believe the trees are much bigger in PA. Since opinions are like well, you know, I will offer mine.
If you want to be safe and get a bigger saw, get the 372 or the JOnsered 2171 (same saw, different handle and color) I would get a 20 inch bar to start and maybe a 28 inch one for the occasional big job WHEN that big job arrises unless you smell a salesman willing to throw one in(ha!!).
My logic is the smaller bar will still get it done, but is less teeth to sharpen and less teeth to go into your leg/foot/barbedwire/neighboring tree and kickback/etc What you lose in cool factor, with a shorter bar, you gain in life expectancy. I have used a 372 with a 24 inch bar a few times and it is a great saw, but it was overkill for almost anything I used it on around here and sharpening it was not as much fun as my 16 inch Jonsered (which has cut me 30+ inch pine more than a few times)
Go with skiptooth chain on those long bars, my 24" with skip sharpens faster than the 18" full comp. I really don't notice a difference in cutting speed or anything else, it's just fewer teeth to sharpen. One of the reasons I like a long bar is I am 6'5" and I don't have to bend over when I am bucking and limbing.
Worked Stihl for several years....now have three saws...like the three bears..small..Husky 40cc.....newest mid-size Dolmer 51cc (a real sweet size)..and my big dog...old 68 cc Sachs Dolmer with 2ft bar...the big one says made in West Germany....but rolls great....truthfully...the mid-size new Dolmer can handle most everything except the biggest diameters.....it do get heavy toting the big boy...so I would suggest compromise with a newer mid-size--18-20" bar.....it will do all you need....a small one is handy for tops and trim....and if you get into big stuff..then add the hoss.....
My three bears are all Stihl. The little home owner 180 gets a lot of use around the mill. The most used is the 460 with 20" bar (man i love that saw) (Yes I'm the kind of guy that can get romantic about a saw :D ) Then if you need something split open use th 084 with 36" bar. If I had the guts to use a powder wedge I probaly wouldn't need it. But its there if I need it. Tim
Quote from: PA_LOGGER on March 02, 2009, 11:30:56 AM
Ive been doing it off and on my life. 18years old now working for a good company the 20" bar isnt bad for most of our trees a little bigger wont heart thats why im thinking 24" or 28" now im not all to sure what CC i should get though my cuz runs a 80cc saw with a 28" bar, but do you need that much?
Ive been looking at 2 huskys a 357xp or 372xp! any thoughts?
I love the 362xp but i dont think its made anymore... i have never ran a 357xp but i like it better than the 372xp.
Not from personal experience, but a decent list you can use as a starting point. Best thing you can do is get them in your hands, running, and see how you like the feel. Your dealer support is often the biggest selling point, brand loyalty not so much if you have some experience; the antivibe, the handle, the parts availability, even interchangeability with other saws you own (bars and chains) can be pretty important.
These all have decent rep in several forums I frequent:
Stihl MS361-MS440-MS441-MS460
Jonsered 2165-2171-2186
Husky 359-372XP-385XP
Solo 681
Dolmar 7900-7300-6400 (same saw different displacements)
Makita 7901-6401 (it's Dolmar in blue)
John Deere/Efco CS62-CS81
All would do well with a 20" to 24" bar in PA hardwood. I don't know enough about Echo, Shindaiwa, Redmax or any other brands to put 'em on my list. It's also a list I've been making for myself when it comes time to buy a new saw.
A very good list, engineer. 8)
I will add one small observation. There is very little difference between the 357xp and the 359. The 359 does not have the 'xp' designation indicating the 'pro' designation but there is virtually no difference in quality between it and the xp series. There is a bit of price difference though. Many consider the 359 a bargain pro saw.
Quote from: Rocky_J on March 10, 2009, 08:15:52 PM
There is very little difference between the 357xp and the 359. The 359 does not have the 'xp' designation indicating the 'pro' designation but there is virtually no difference in quality between it and the xp series. There is a bit of price difference though. Many consider the 359 a bargain pro saw.
The specs claim a 13% increase in power from the 359 (3.9 HP) to the 357XP (4.4 HP). Is that true in the real world, or is it as optimistic as Husky's weight claims for the 357XP? Even if it is true, does the torque band make more of a difference than this little bit of HP?
I bought a used 357XP, and have been quite pleased with it... but the closest thing I had to compare it with was a Jonsered 2152, so it's no wonder I am impressed with the power increase. I've often wondered if I should have been looking for a 359 instead. If I had been buying new, I probably would have... $150 price difference for the two saws (new) back when I was shopping in the fall of '08.
John Mc
In my limited opinion I think they are a lot closer than that. I do know that the guys who do the engine porting on saws can get more power out of the 359 than the 357xp due to the port configuration. But in stock form the 357xp is slightly stronger.
Quote from: Rocky_J on March 10, 2009, 09:10:46 PM
In my limited opinion I think they are a lot closer than that. I do know that the guys who do the engine porting on saws can get more power out of the 359 than the 357xp due to the port configuration. But in stock form the 357xp is slightly stronger.
So then the question becomes: How much porting does the $150 difference in price get you?