Hi all,
So i'm in the process of modifying my solar kiln into a HD kiln. I got the unit and am setting it up. I am not an electrician and have one coming tomorrow but i cant seem to figure out how the fans get power. Nothing in the manual says anything about it. I assume the power comes from the unit so that you can control them with the controller but it doesn't say anything on where they get power from. From what i understand the unit gets power from the 40 amp disconnect and feeds the fans, power vents etc.
Also their instructions on mounting the power vents is awful.
Can someone clarify as to where the fans get their power? Also the manual says to put the 2 fans they provided on separate 12 amp circuits. I currently have 4 fans on the same circuit and plan to use those instead of the fans they provided.
Are the fans controlled from the controller or are they hard wired to the switch which is fed from the 40 amp disconnect?
If you are talking about the main circulation fans, they are on their own circuit. I ran a 20 amp circuit for them. If you are using your own fans, run a suitable capacity circuit to support them. They are never switched off, unless the kiln is empty. They are not connected to the controller.
The unit itself should have its own independent 40 amp circuit.
I also wired in a 20 amp service circuit for lights and outlets needed for power tools. This circuit is required when the other circuits are switched off for safety when you are servicing the other hardware.
I do not recommend using galvanized conduit, it will eventually corrode from the atmosphere in the kiln. I ran PVC with standard exterior water tight or glued connections.
The KD250 is the same as the L200M from Nyle. This link is to the L200M manual, it may explain things better.
http://www.nyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/L200.pdf :)
Man wood-mizer needs to redo their manual. Thank god i haven't buried my wire lines yet.
2 more questions about the power vent.
1) (wires are from controller to vent fan correct?) black from "compressor off" which is CN1 - 3 And the other ones goes from TB 16 (the manual says 16 but the wiring diagram says 17....). It doesn't matter which black wire goes to which black wire in the vent system correct?
2) I'm still not sure how to mount them. Can someone please tell me if the fan vent is on the low or high pressure of the baffle and if its a intake or exhaust.
Exhaust is on the high pressure side.
Hi Woodslabs
The wires for the power vent go into the control box and hook up on TB(Terminal Blocks) 3 & 17. the fan is single direction and it doesn't matter which wire goes where.
The Power Vent fan unit mounts on the low pressure side (sorry Gene) and it exhausts excess hot air. ;D
The woodmizer manual says 16... common woodmizer!
Ok sorry to be anal. So the wires go where i circled? Where does the ground go?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38237/20170929_131557.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1506706325)
one wire goes there, 3rd slot from the right (or 3rd slot on the TB bar?)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38237/20170928_150012.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1506706242)
The 2nd goes to slot 17 circled here.
Also for the vent placement:
This one is the exaust and will bolt the way shown (back of kiln, low pressure)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38237/20170929_125040.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1506706490)
And this one without fan will be like shown on high pressure, front of kiln.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38237/20170929_125019.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1506706470)
Woodslabs,
Not sure if you know it, but K-Guy is Stan, who is Nyle's top and most experienced factory floor and assembly guy. He knows his stuff, and if you call Nyle and ask for him, he will be glad to answer your questions real time.
I've never met him, but we've known each other for many years, and I think he even assembled my first kiln at the factory.
Give him a call, he will be glad to help.
i called and left a message for stan. I wish they would just include a pic like mine and say where to plug the wires in the manual.
If you had a vent on the low pressure side and high pressure side without any fans, it would naturally exhaust on the hp side and intake on the lp side. If you put an exhaust fan on the LP side, it is fighting the circulating fans. I have always believed that NYLE has their fan in backwards. Some customers have turned them around and find they work better...faster.
I have the older WoodMizer DH4000 and my over temp exhaust fan is on the output/high pressure side of the wood stack. That's the way the installation instructions said to put it. It's been that way for years and works fine.
Ok i got it all working thanks to Stan.
I have 1 more question. Whats the difference between the compressor and humidifier. Would you ever have one on but not the other? Also to just heat and not take out moisture which is to be turned off, the compressor or humidifier. I dry several species at the end of the cycle i just heat the kiln for a week or so without pulling out any water to dry out the walnuts and oaks a little more.
The compressor system removes the water from the kiln and the humidifier is an option that you don't have to add moisture to the kiln for conditioning at the end of the load.
Ok i have the kiln running and set it to 90/85 F for above 50% moisture for group 4. Its heating up but very slowly, i assume its becasue all the moisture in 4000 bf of wood.
My only issue is that on the controller it is showing as humidifier on (i don't have a humidifier) and even when i click it from auto to off it is still showing as on.
same with heater, when i click it off from auto it still shows as on
The indicators on the display are non feedback. They won't tell you if an operation is functioning, only that the controller is commanding for it.
So humidifier "on" indicates your wet bulb is lower than your set point, so if you had a humidifier installed, the controller would be sending a signal to activate it.
Same thing with the heater, it doesn't get feedback so isn't showing the heater being "on" only that the controller is demanding heat. When you turn the switch off, you are overriding the command.
Thanks yellow i was getting worried. Currently at 88.7/84.2. The compressor hasnt been on yet that i have seen. I assume it will come on once its at 90/ 85+
Yes, everything is working OK. There is usually a little hysteresis or dead band so it may go a little beyond.
Once the compressor kicks on, it will generate enough heat for the rest of the cycle. For example, if you dial in 120° dry bulb, and you are near or at the correct wet bulb, then the compressor will run, generate heat, and gradually work in to the correct temperature for the next step without using the heat strips. It will save money running those electric heat strips. So probably run with the strips on for a cycle or two until you get the hang of it, them flip the manual switch off once you reach the initial set points, and save electricity.
Never, never forget to turn off the manual compressor switch when going into a sterilization cycle.
What species of wood and moisture conditions do you have loaded?
A variety of hardwoods at around 67% moisture per the probes
it's sitting at 89.6-90/85.5 without the compressor coming on. I assume it doesn't come on much at the begging of the cycle as the desired RH is around 84%? Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure its working right.
1 last thing: How many degrees over the set wet bulb does the compressor come on? I have been 1.9 degrees over and the compressor stays off.
2 degrees over the wet bulb set point, and there is a 5 minute delay after the wet bulb temp reaches 2 degrees over the set point before the compressor will come on.
Thank you. I wish the manual was better 8)
Gee Yellowhammer
I think you're after my job. :D :D
Quote from: K-Guy on October 09, 2017, 01:58:29 PM
Gee Yellowhammer
I think you're after my job. :D :D
If so, will I be able to use the company jet?
Intrigued by this thread as I'm about to build a chamber for WoodMizer 250.
As I look at the instructions (via Nyle's site) they list 12' loads as being a max of 3' wide. I generally do 8' and 10' material, but occasionally do 12' materials too. My entire system is designed for 4' wide loads (pallets, stickers, covers, etc.).
Is this a matter of fan capability or just an oversight on their part?
Thx
Quote from: PA_Walnut on October 24, 2017, 08:35:21 AM
Intrigued by this thread as I'm about to build a chamber for WoodMizer 250.
As I look at the instructions (via Nyle's site) they list 12' loads as being a max of 3' wide. I generally do 8' and 10' material, but occasionally do 12' materials too. My entire system is designed for 4' wide loads (pallets, stickers, covers, etc.).
Is this a matter of fan capability or just an oversight on their part?
Thx
Mine is configured for 4 foot wide stacks up to 19 feet long. I can go up to about 50" high until I reach the baffle that holds the fans. Sometimes I stack up past that on the input side of the baffle if I have a large load.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11043/Kiln-5.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1192063768)
Lots more pictures in my gallery.....
https://forestryforum.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=1482
Awesome! Thanks.
The Woodmizer sales dude recommended a reefer unit to me. I kinda searched around for an insulated one and didn't come up with much. I like the idea of rolling it in and being up and running in no time!
Quote from: PA_Walnut on October 25, 2017, 05:56:28 AM
Awesome! Thanks.
The Woodmizer sales dude recommended a reefer unit to me. I kinda searched around for an insulated one and didn't come up with much. I like the idea of rolling it in and being up and running in no time!
Contact the dealers that sell sea containers. They are rare, but you can locate insulated reefer containers. They typically cost more but are aluminum and stainless steel which helps avoid corrosion. I have 2 of them and had I got them earlier I would have built my kiln in one.