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rliuts, NE Woodburner, gspren, iwearhats, Rhodemont, tule peak timber, WCFAK, RAYAR, terrifictimbersllc, Big_eddy, John Mc, lxskllr, DanL, WV Sawmiller
rliuts, NE Woodburner, gspren, iwearhats, Rhodemont, tule peak timber, WCFAK, RAYAR, terrifictimbersllc, Big_eddy, John Mc, lxskllr, DanL, WV Sawmiller
Recent posts
#1
The Outdoor Board / Re: DAM BEAR!
Last post by NE Woodburner - Today at 01:08:50 PMWe see bear from time to time at our home and we have a camp in the NY Adirondack mts. Lots of bear up there. I (almost) always make sure the trash at camp is put in a container in a locked shed. I was cleaning up the kitchen one night and put the trash on the porch to take care of later. I forgot and went to bed. A bear broke through the screens on the porch and had a field day. I spent quite a while the next morning cleaning up trash all over the yard. The thought of the bear that close to my family with only an old door between him and the inside of the camp made me a lot more careful about trash after that.
We love to see bear at our home and up to the camp from a distance and often do, but I don't need to see them close up in my living space.
We love to see bear at our home and up to the camp from a distance and often do, but I don't need to see them close up in my living space.
#2
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Horizontal slab shaver.
Last post by barbender - Today at 12:37:48 PMJackson makes them too, but yeah most I've seen are bigger machines.
#3
General Board / Re: Safety switches on my zero...
Last post by barbender - Today at 12:34:55 PM Rustic, a common failure on Case 1845c skid loaders is the wire to the key switch is insufficient size, so it tends to not supply enough voltage to the starter solenoid. I finally did the popular but somewhat hokey (imo) modification of a smaller solenoid, to run the solenoid. It was much simpler than running all new wiring🤷
#4
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Horizontal slab shaver.
Last post by rusticretreater - Today at 12:34:25 PMI guess you mean a shaving mill for making animal bedding?
Try this. Type shaving mill into google and get a page of results. Then at the top of the page, click on the images link. Voila! You get pages full of pictures of mills, new, old, on ebay, etc.
Try this. Type shaving mill into google and get a page of results. Then at the top of the page, click on the images link. Voila! You get pages full of pictures of mills, new, old, on ebay, etc.
#5
General Board / Re: Safety switches on my zero...
Last post by barbender - Today at 12:32:22 PMDon, I think I posted before about that jury awarding a paralyzed kid millions from Kubota, because he was riding on an attachment on a Kubota skid and the operator raised the loader and crushed him.
Another family was just awarded a multi-million dollar settlement from CRC, who make aerosol cleaners etc. Someone was driving down the road huffing a CRC product, passed out iirc, and hit this woman's car head on killing her.
These settlements were awarded by juries of our peers. You can thank them and attorneys for all of those switches.
Another family was just awarded a multi-million dollar settlement from CRC, who make aerosol cleaners etc. Someone was driving down the road huffing a CRC product, passed out iirc, and hit this woman's car head on killing her.
These settlements were awarded by juries of our peers. You can thank them and attorneys for all of those switches.
#6
General Board / Re: Safety switches on my zero...
Last post by rusticretreater - Today at 12:24:23 PMI have a Kubota BX-25 tractor and have dealt with these things several times. Electrical gremlins confound most people, but there are a few things you can try to get things moving again.
One of the issues is low voltage/amperage. The manufacturers use the thinnest wire they can get away with due to costs. This can result in low current when things get older and every connection suffers a bit of corrosion. When you see those wires that have a bit of corrosion, but it doesn't look all that bad. Think again. Many is the time I have clipped off an old connector, exposed clean wires and made a new connection.
Check the current at the plugs for switches. If should be at 12v+. If not, start cleaning things up. Buy a can of electrical component cleaner and spray it into the plugs then slide them on and off the switch lugs to cut through the corrosion. It never hurts to clean the ground connections. I also use dialectic grease on components to prevent corrosion.
Once I had a switch that appeared defective, but when I removed it I found the plastic that holds it secure in its slot had cracked on one side and it was sagging a bit. Bypassing switches sometimes has its benefits, but the seat rollover safety switch should always remain.
@Magicman One thing that happens is that there is not enough amperage available on the wire that activates the solenoid. The famous "click" but no start condition. There is a popular kit that has a relay that switches battery current directly to the solenoid instead of using current through the wiring harness.
One of the issues is low voltage/amperage. The manufacturers use the thinnest wire they can get away with due to costs. This can result in low current when things get older and every connection suffers a bit of corrosion. When you see those wires that have a bit of corrosion, but it doesn't look all that bad. Think again. Many is the time I have clipped off an old connector, exposed clean wires and made a new connection.
Check the current at the plugs for switches. If should be at 12v+. If not, start cleaning things up. Buy a can of electrical component cleaner and spray it into the plugs then slide them on and off the switch lugs to cut through the corrosion. It never hurts to clean the ground connections. I also use dialectic grease on components to prevent corrosion.
Once I had a switch that appeared defective, but when I removed it I found the plastic that holds it secure in its slot had cracked on one side and it was sagging a bit. Bypassing switches sometimes has its benefits, but the seat rollover safety switch should always remain.
@Magicman One thing that happens is that there is not enough amperage available on the wire that activates the solenoid. The famous "click" but no start condition. There is a popular kit that has a relay that switches battery current directly to the solenoid instead of using current through the wiring harness.
#7
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Experience with LX250 or o...
Last post by barbender - Today at 12:23:41 PM Any mill running a .50 or .55 blade around 19" wheels is going to have short blade life. But if you are able to sell those wide slabs your getting, the blade cost should be negligible. I'd rather go through more blades than fix wavy cuts.
For what it's worth, I've found that running .055" blades rob more power, and gives flatter cuts, than going from 1.25" to 1.5" wide blades of the same thickness. 1.5x55 gives you the benefit of both, if you can run them.
For what it's worth, I've found that running .055" blades rob more power, and gives flatter cuts, than going from 1.25" to 1.5" wide blades of the same thickness. 1.5x55 gives you the benefit of both, if you can run them.
#8
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Thinking about the future....
Last post by barbender - Today at 12:19:34 PM If you have lots of $$ to spend, one of the Mecalac machines look about as versatile as you can get.
#9
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Thinking about the future....
Last post by Magicman - Today at 12:07:50 PMA mini is a very versatile machine but my experience has been that log and lumber handling is not it's strong suit.
#10
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Thinking about the future....
Last post by KenMac - Today at 11:56:14 AMI can't disagree with your logic about a mini ex. I would recommend that you get as large as you can haul safely. It's like a sawmill in that you can't have too much power.
