yeah all that means is you better have a good chainsaw ! I can answer most questions to this kind of log method and thought I would post this to get more people who have cabins to start posting there pictures and comments ! I will enjoy following the updates to sawinmontana , it makes the old scandinavian methods look prehistoric ! so if anyone is having troubles with this kind of log building method feel free to ask ok ! :P(https://forestryforum.com/images/YaBBImages/userpics/UNCLEBUCK%20WORKING%20ON%20CABIN%20TUESDAY.jpg)
i be home on weekends to answer anyones questions ok ! bye now ! :P
I wonder if thats what I used on my benches?
UNKLEBUCK, are you what is known as a Finnish carpenter? ::)
Har! Thats a DanG good one!
Awww, man..... ::) ::) :D
What does an actual scribe look like and how is it used? I made a scribe by screwing two rulers to each other at the end and taping a pencil to one. ;D
well, it worked.
Jeff, that sounds like a DanG fine log scribe to me ;) Lee Valley sells one that looks like this:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=41144&category=1,41131&ccurrency=2&SID=
yeah everybody is correct ! basically its a big pencil compass with a bubble level attached at some point and it just transfers the top of the bottom log to the bottom of the top log and when your done scribing the complete log and bring it down to ground level and roll it over you have lines to follow with a chainsaw and you end up with a kind of hollow area then roll and staple in sill seal fiberglass insulation and then put the log back up on the wall and roll it over into place and it should fit like a glove and with allowances made on the log ends and top of notches it will be called shrink fit notches,gets tighter with age and more weight, then youre done ! the outside wall looks just like the inside , the more knots and uglier the log the prettier it looks when its done ! ok
The guy up the road does a style where he cuts a lateral in both logs. he says it gives a tighter joint. I'm still amazed at how well he handles a chainsaw to follow the lines. I have a hard time with a coloring book.
thats sounds neat, never tried that ! kind of nice to leave the top of the log below round on top for any possible moisture to dissappear from. except the notch area has a scarf shaped into it for compression as the years go by and gravity to do its magic ! i be reading timberframing books now and am ready to give it a go, they sure are pretty structures ! plus you dont have to hand peel the logs, just throw them on the mill , feels like carpentry again ! :P
You can find descriptions and photos of several types of scribers at:
http://www.loghomestore.com/tools2.shtml#scribers
Regards, Scotty2
I have been building a log house for my parents using the double-cut lateral that was mentioned above.Here is a picture of my Mackie scriber
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/mackie%20scribe%201.JPG)
Pic of me cutting the tracer cuts.
This is my first attempt a building a log house.The hardest part of this venture was peeling all the logs.I built alot of specialized tools which was fun!
I'm getting close to installing the log floor joists.
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/tracer%20cutting%202.JPG)
nice picture Blue ! I built my first log cabin 20 years ago for my folks too! didnt know what I was gettin in to when dad sent me to log building school. my teacher went to the mackie school so i guess i learned it right the first time ! had 165 huge norways to peel when i got home from log school, ended up with 70 foot purlins but had to let them dry for a year but it worked out fine ! ended up buying a big old 25 ton Bay City truck crane for saftey reasons with a 90 foot boom for 1000 $,still runs great ! anyway good luck and keep postin the pics ! thanks ! :P
Today , I started endbolting (splicing) my 60 foot logs over a mid wall notch.This gets rid of most of the sweep found in long logs and allows for longer walls.After the log on the right is final scribed into position.I make a 2 foot long x 3/4" wide saw kerf across the joint. 3 inch holes are drilled at both ends of the kerf.I plunge cut a flat on the side of the hole for placement of a large timber washer/nut.Then a piece of all thread is dropped in, bolting the logs together.Everything is galvanized.Untreated metal will leave rust stains everywhere. (https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/end%20bolting%201.JPG)
Finally above the doors this weekend (header logs), feels pretty good ;D. I've got a ways to go yet though. One double log beam, six floor joist, two trusses,a ridgepole and some posts.I'm gonna cut the windows out last. (https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/eagle%20in%20action.JPG)
Is it hard to tighten up that threaded rod? Jim
hey blue ! great pictures ! you sound committed to finish asap ! I like how deep you peeled your logs and how smooth they look. The first time I peeled logs I left the cambium layer on and the big norways were beautiful almost a tiger striping effect but by the time I got done and got a roof on, the cambium layer dried and cracked and faded and looked awful so I had it sandblasted then gobbed on the sikkens and saved "the ark" as my dad calls it ! good job ! very very nice !
Jim
Nope, not hard,I'll post a close up tomorrow.
Thanks for your nice comments Uncle Buck.I spent months and months peeling these logs.It was more difficult because I bought the logs from the local mill.They had been through the delimber,so you can imagine the damage I had to deal with.The spike rolls on those things, leave horendous tracks down each side of the logs.I made a bunch of drawknives for peeling.The ones in the store were way too narrow (kept skinning my knuckles)
I got used industrial planer blades for free at the mill, just welded some square stock to them for a handle and gripped it with hockey tape.I got fancy with the last one and made cork grips They work best with the bevel side down and sharpened at about 20 - 25 degree angle .
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/homemade%20drawknife%20forestry.JPG)
I agree that store bought drawknives are a joke ! I used old sye ("sigh") blades like from the hand held old time ones found at auctions because they would sharpen up great and ranged from 2 to almost 2-1/2 feet from end to end . Even if you have to hire some day helpers once in awhile throughout the project just keep on pluggin away until you get a roof on it. A neighbor and his wife built a big log cabin and it was several years before they got close to puttin a roof over it and all their efforts turned rotten . So once you get to that point then you can take a break and rest the sore muscles ! lookin good from here !
hi everyone ! here is a pic of the log floor joists and purlins and kind of see a post back there somewhere, this is red pine "norways" ! this is the basement of dads cabin lookin upwards, the loft floor joist is the same kind of set up minus the posts because the loft floor joists ride on the bottom chord of log truss and log wall , the posts in this pic have a 2 inch threaded bolt and washer under each post and through the years i have had to turn the big nut to snug the post back up to the purlin ! used a double scribed square notch on some and other just a regular saddle type notch !the joists were flat sided one side with a homemade 2 man bar on a regular husky chainsaw !
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/floorjoist-postpurlin.jpg)
hey good deal my pic went through ok, forgot to say that all the logs were hand peeled but you can see at one time there was a beautiful tiger striped cambium layer on these logs but this is after the sandblasting lightly , after 20 years the logs have not had any type of finish yet, this cabin is still not finished ,hee hee, pops got sick and ran short on cash so i work on it when i can ! the rocks were free from the neighbors farm field ,had to buy the 2x6 t&g pine flooring 20 years ago other than that its just a challenge mentally to keep excited but its very close to finished , another 2 years haha :P
i meant to say that after 20 years the interior logs and walls have not had any type of finish yet, the exterior got 078 sikkens the day after the light sandblasting 20 years ago ! about every 5 years i mop on the sikkens to the exterior ! the only reason for buying a old truck crane was because i was working over a walk-out basement and had to have a old mechanical type crane that would swing the logs on and off with ease ! this cabin didnt seem very big on scratch paper and pencil when we first ventured into this project but when the log trucks all showed up at once we took a deep breath and realized its too late to turn back now ! hee hee :P
Hey Blue ! I hope you show more progress pictures, your scribing methods seem to be the latest info hot off the press, its very interesting to see the double scribe way ! ;D
I found a picture on the internet of a pretty log cabin and just had to post it , looks like the scribed way and a very good job of peeling . (https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/logcabinsomewhere.jpg)
Sorry I took sooo long to reply Uncle Buck.The house is now reassembled and closed-in nearly 3000 mile away from were I first peeled and fitted those logs.A couple shots of it....(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/Front%20cape%20cod%20style.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/east%20end%20truss.jpg)
holy cow blue ! that is beautiful ,oh my oh my ! I figured you were gettin after it pretty good being you werent checkin in once in awhile ! congrats , way to go ! I gotta show this to my dad , I will print this up . Ya know you really deserve to show this in a new thread of your own and show all your beginning to end pics because you got the hot scribing hand and its awesome stuff. I hope you do because alot of people would want to ask you alot of first hand stuff . 8)
Thanks for the kind words, Uncle Buck. I'm pretty happy how it turned out.
I would like to build more log houses.I won't ever do a double scribe lateral again,but I'll get into that on another thread. Thanks again,I',m really glad you like my work!!
Is blue_eyed_devil still around the forum? Great little thread here I stumbled on in the archives. Excellent workmanship!
LOGDOG
I haven't seen him here or on another forum he used to haunt in a couple of years. He did do a nice job on his folks place.
That's too bad. Guys like him are nice to have around. Although they also tend to be the busiest. Maybe he'll pop in sometime and let us know what he's been workin' on.
LOGDOG
He hasn't logged in since the software changeover several years ago.
To bad it would be kind of nice to see some of his other work, or maybe some others.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13648/Blind%20Tennon%20.jpg)
Here is a picture of our Blind Mortise for the starter row of my cabin.
Exactly Stephen. Nice notch. Fixin' to do a little cribe work myself over here in the near future. We'll post pics as we go. Promise you won't laugh at my first few notches? ;)
LOGDOG
I spotted some nice log work going on in one of members galleries. Check out HARLEYRIDERS gallery. Great full scribe log work.
LOGDOG
Quote from: blue_eyed_devil on September 27, 2003, 11:25:51 PM
Jim
Nope, not hard,I'll post a close up tomorrow.
Thanks for your nice comments Uncle Buck.I spent months and months peeling these logs.It was more difficult because I bought the logs from the local mill.They had been through the delimber,so you can imagine the damage I had to deal with.The spike rolls on those things, leave horendous tracks down each side of the logs.I made a bunch of drawknives for peeling.The ones in the store were way too narrow (kept skinning my knuckles)
I got used industrial planer blades for free at the mill, just welded some square stock to them for a handle and gripped it with hockey tape.I got fancy with the last one and made cork grips They work best with the bevel side down and sharpened at about 20 - 25 degree angle .
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/homemade%20drawknife%20forestry.JPG)
I got a really great drawknife from schroeders log supply "www.loghelp.com" 13" blade curved to the contour of the log, and awesome comfort handles..........it's made by "Granfors Bruks" ........
Quote from: blue_eyed_devil on September 26, 2003, 10:00:11 PM
Today , I started endbolting (splicing) my 60 foot logs over a mid wall notch.This gets rid of most of the sweep found in long logs and allows for longer walls.After the log on the right is final scribed into position.I make a 2 foot long x 3/4" wide saw kerf across the joint. 3 inch holes are drilled at both ends of the kerf.I plunge cut a flat on the side of the hole for placement of a large timber washer/nut.Then a piece of all thread is dropped in, bolting the logs together.Everything is galvanized.Untreated metal will leave rust stains everywhere. (https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/end%20bolting%201.JPG)
I've been looking for this 'method'. I'm in the beginning stages of designing our log cabin. We're limited to 20' length logs give or take due to man power and no use of heavy equipment. I've been trying to find a method that allows you to splice the logs and cover that in a notch. I like that you hid them in the mid walls. Is it possible to splice logs like this with green logs? Or would shrinkage cause problems with the butted ends?
Also, it looks like your just splicing one or two logs. I'd be splicing down the entire length of the wall, verticalwise. So say, I have 20' logs stacked 10 high. Id want to splice another 10 logs, 20' in length, then put in a mid log wall on the splice notch such as you. End result would give me a 40' wall. Does that make sense? Wondering if that would be structurally sound if I use galvanized bolts and hardware to hold together.
See if you can find a copy of 'Short Log and Timber Framing' by James Mitchell...great for those wanting to use shorter/easier pieces of wood. (I think Abebooks.com may have a copy)
Side Notes; Wood doesn't shrink much in length...I recall the old 2x4 balloon framing days where they would use 20' long studs and frame 2 stories at once...they figured 1" of settling...thus horizontal log builders rarely adjust for shrinkage in length...vs. a green horizontal log builder would have to figure up to 3/4" per foot of wall height (depending on specie, roof type etc.).
Scotty
Quote from: blue_eyed_devil on September 08, 2003, 09:59:34 AM
I have been building a log house for my parents using the double-cut lateral that was mentioned above.Here is a picture of my Mackie scriber
(https://forestryforum.com/images/04_01_03/mackie%20scribe%201.JPG)
I use in my work logscriber IZBA from Russia. This is an analogue Gearhead scriber(https://vk.com/cherta_izba?z=photo-160940100_456239311%2Falbum-160940100_251179591)(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpp.userapi.com%2Fc845219%2Fv845219174%2Fb8ca1%2Fowpz3PRqHOg.jpg&hash=6ed6fbfc240a6a1c7b46d368749dc1777b91153c)
video work with logscriber IZBA (https://youtu.be/bddckPUJ3i8)
Great video, thanks for posting, tell us some more of where you are from?
Quote from: Stephen1 on August 21, 2018, 09:57:43 AM
Great video, thanks for posting, tell us some more of where you are from?
Good day! Thank you! I'm from Russia. I am engaged in building houses from logs and beams. Now I'm building here so here's the house to the customer
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51146/4~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1534875993)
(https://forestryforum.com/board/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F%26lt%3Bbr%26gt%3B%5Bimg%2520width%3D650%2520height%3D365%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fforestryforum.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F51146%2FFoto_Chudskoe_06_18.jpg%3Feasyrotate_cache%3D1534876268&hash=4d2b5617c0170dbd00509453d96eb0525f60a34a)
[/img]
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51146/Foto_Chudskoe_06_18.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1534876268)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51146/2~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1534875980)
Re: SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=3196.msg1595764;topicseen#msg1595764)
Thats looks very interesting. Are you in the USA?
Quote from: Stephen1 on August 21, 2018, 03:33:37 PM
Thats looks very interesting. Are you in the USA?
No, now I'm in Russia. It was not possible to visit your country yet, but I think this will happen someday) Now only work is underway to send our logscriber to Canada and the US
I see you are in Quebec, Canada, I am in the next province, Ontario.
Where in Quebec are you?
Quote from: Stephen1 on August 28, 2018, 09:54:01 AM
I see you are in Quebec, Canada, I am in the next province, Ontario.
Where in Quebec are you?
I am in Russia now. I indicated the country to Canada so that I could register on this forum))savvy
and more, we have a novelty here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0F2_8wWBas (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0F2_8wWBas)
http://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=251950 (http://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=251950)
My home is Scandinavian scribed and Swedish cope corners. The shell was built by Senty Log Homes in MN and then disassembled and trucked down to Missouri where we restacked it and I finished it. I love it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36921/AEDD561F-3496-481D-AC25-3CE254308648.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1535922676)
Its a beautiful scriber to be sure. I'd love to test one out.
I noticed though in the video, that you are using the same setting for scribing the lateral, notch, and flyway. This IMO is not the preferred method, there should be allowance for settling of the log, tightening of the notch and relief of the flyway. I also couldnt help but cringe when the gentlemen was adjusting the scribe arms between scribes. No offense, and Im no scribe snob or expert, just my own personal experience and teachings from instructors.
I suppose it may make a difference if the logs you are using are seasoned vs green, and obviously you've done this before, but if the logs are green I'd be curious to see what the joints look like in 4-5 years without relief allowances.
When scribing dovetailed corners the scandinavian way you use the same setting for everything and cut to the line. Everything settles just as much..
When scribing ordinary crossed corners we alsop use the same setting for everything end then either use a carpenter's pencil to add a second set of marks for the deeper notches and the extra space betweebn the protruding log ends or as just cut a little past the scribe line.