Wm spring blade tensioner conversion

[Crossroads]

Hi Ben, sorry for the confusion. I agree, the bearings could certainly be part of my cut problem, I just replace my guide rollers today as well. I'm pretty confident in my ability to read the measurement, however there could. S flaws in my process lol. I'm clamping it at 6" then tighten just to the point that there is no slack in the band, then zero the caliper and start cranking down on the tension.

[Crossroads]

Just got the mill put back together, checked head tilt, set deflection and leveled the blade. I still had the cant on the mill that I was cutting when it came apart so, I went ahead and cut it up. All is well! Now I just have to wait for days off to go finish the job I started last week.

[Ben Cut-wright]

All is well!

What was the precise fault which necessitated the extra spring pressure?

[Crossroads]

All is well!

What was the precise fault which necessitated the extra spring pressure?

I was getting wavy cuts, then I figured out that I wasn't running enough tension

[Pabene]

My English isn't good enough to explain but here is a try. To check the blade tension with higher accuracy you can do it this way: Take a flat bar 40" long, lay it on the blade upper part (or on the lower if the blade guides are taken out). Clamp the left end of the bar to the blade. Clamp a nut (or similary) on the blade, about an Inch from the right end of the bar. Now you can use a Caliper to measure the distance from the right end of the bar to the nut. With this set up you can measure the blades prolonging over a longer distance. I have learn that the prolonging in the blade, by the suitable tension force, would be one mm for 1000 mm length. In this case you would see a difference on the caliper of 0,040" between "zero tension" and "max tension". In my oppinion it is a safer and more accurat method. Remember the blademanufacture has his recommendation and the saw manufacture has his own recommendation for the tensioning, it is not always the same.

[Crossroads]

What I did today was to clamp the caliper to the blade at 6" zero, then tightened the hand until the spring bottoms out. This gave me .0048" stretch, then I backed the tension off on full revaluation, this brought my stretch down to .0043" of stretch and it seemed to cut well. Well until I hit several strands of wire that had grown into the seccoia that I was turning into 1x6" fence boards:(