The First day of The InterMechanicoMill

[InterMechanico]

This may be premature but, when you go to build your track and frame assembly, ensure that you plan the height of your bunks correctly to be able to saw down to a small enough dimension..i.e. 1"

It is a very easy thing to forget. A lot of builds end up with spacers added to the bunks to bring the height up to be able to saw small enough. A bunk that is installed into a ladder type frame even with the side rails will usually leave you without enough movement down.

Once you have your carriage setup, plan how low the saw head will travel down and see where the blade will be. Plan the bunk height accordingly. My bunks used brackets that allowed the top of the bunks to be above the top of the side rails, allowing me to easily cut down to ¾".

Good luck with the build. ;D

Thank you, BCsaw. Not premature at all, as these types of builds tend to go faster than one would expect. I intend to build a ladder frame track with 2" x 4" x 1/4" wall box cross members and 6" heavy C-channel side rails. The tops of the cross members will be level with the top of the side rails. Other than the rail that the carriage runs on, which will be mounted on the top on the side rails, the deck assembly will be flat. With this arrangement, the carriage rail will be my limiting factor in regard to the minimum possible clearance between the blade and the deck. 

[InterMechanico]

To BC's point of cutting small at the end.  I got that pretty close on mine but then messed it up with the doggs being not low enough of a profile.
gww

Thank you, GWW. I haven't even looked at how my dogs will work, or how I will design them, but I will keep their height in mind when doing so

[Ox]

For the up and down acme rod or B7 threaded rod is a nice option.  4 sprockets, 4 pillow blocks, 2 hanger bearings, 2-1" B7 rod and 1 3/4 rod is what powers mine.  I have it set up so 4 turns of my handle goes through #40 chain to both B7 rods and turns them 8 times.  4 turns to the inch.  24 tooth sprocket down to 12 tooth sprockets.  If price was no problem I would have gone with acme rod and long, thick brass nuts for them.  I have less than $400 in my system and I expect it to work for many many years with proper care and lube.  As an added plus it'll be easy to add a powered system later using some kind of gear motor.  Linn Lumber has an up/down kit using acme for $450 I believe but I just couldn't get my head wrapped around the 5 turns to the inch bit.  My brain fries when thinking about it.  How would one convert 5 TPI to 4 TPI?  A 15 tooth sprocket on the acme rods and a 12 tooth driving sprocket?  1/5 of 15 is 3 so 15 minus 3 is 12.  Am I thinking of that right?  God, I feel so stupid sometimes. :  Your build looks great.  Huge!

[Magicman]

I feel so stupid sometimes. : 

But knowing that you have found the right source for information here on the FF makes you smart again. 

[Ox]

Absolutely. 8)

[InterMechanico]

And your math looks to correct anyhow

More progress today! More pictures tomorrow

[InterMechanico]

Here are some more pictures of the build. The Saw table has been welded and the pillow block mounts have been reinforced. I removed the seams from the inside of the guide tubing of the table, so now it moves much more freely without binding. The next steps are to install the blade tension adjuster screws (1 inch acme rod) and install a manual table hoist system that can later be converted to a powered system.

The actual measured distance between the bandsaw wheels is 39 inches. I have a pair is 18.25" wheels as well that can be used to increase the distance between the wheels to about 46 inches. The maximum cutting depth is measured at 18 inches. The 5 gallon pails are there to give you an idea of the size.

Have a good day!



  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

 

PS: I have to go to "real" work today, but the sun is shining!

[Magicman]

Looking good, but of course your blade guides will be what actually determines your sawing width.

[Ox]

Whoooeeeee, she's a big'un!  Looking good bub.  Homemade trussed pillow block mounts.  Lovin' it!

[InterMechanico]

Looking good, but of course your blade guides will be what actually determines your sawing width.

Indeed. That sounds like a challenge  ;D

[fishpharmer]

Its easy to underestimate the importance of having very strong supports for your blade guides, especially on a wide mill.   These should be able to support the full pressure of the tensioned saw blade.  Also, the blade guide on the side opposite the log backstops will be most beneficial if it can move in and out so as to remain close to the log and steady the blade.  On my mill build it was sort of an afterthought that would have been easier to install correctly the first time. 

One other consideration that you may have thought about, having a wide cutting mill is not very useful if you don't have adequate log handling machinery. 

Keep up the good work, I am looking forward to the progress.