I have a shed that I can store the mill in now, but it's closed on both side and open on both ends and to short to raise the head. I have quite a few incense cedar on my place that I can cut 6x6 out of for my uprights, but I figured if I stuck them in the ground, the would rot pretty fast. If I coat them with tar, will that make a substantial difference in how long they last? Or should I break down and buy PT 6x6 and mill the rest of the wood? Thanks
Following suggestions on another post I'll be putting in sono tubes when I build mine.
I milled 8x8 pine for mine and found a place close that pressure treated for I think 287$ per thousand board feet. Mine basically cost about 24$ a piece for the treatment. May be there's some one close how can do it. This place was a fence post making outfit
If a guy is going to use sauna tubes or any other form of concrete, why not run it above ground and bolt the 6x6's to it?
Quote from: starmac on November 09, 2017, 04:12:01 PM
If a guy is going to use sauna tubes or any other form of concrete, why not run it above ground and bolt the 6x6's to it?
That's me gut thought as well. I don't really plan on using any concrete, but sometimes plans change lol
As far as pressure treating goes, in my opinion it's no better than raw wood. When they changed the formula a while back it ruined the whole industry. If it were me, I'd use a concrete footing that kept the wood from ground contact.
There's also a metal base you can put between your wood post and the concrete to further protect the wood.
Quote from: starmac on November 09, 2017, 04:12:01 PM
If a guy is going to use sauna tubes or any other form of concrete, why not run it above ground and bolt the 6x6's to it?
That's my plan.
Quote from: crowhill on November 09, 2017, 05:49:01 PM
There's also a metal base you can put between your wood post and the concrete to further protect the wood.
That also is my plan. I guess I should have added a few more details.
When I built mine, I used 6x6 treated post that were 5' long and bolted 6x6 oak post going up from there. If the treated post last 15 years and I am still around, I will be happy. :D The treated post are in concrete.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1457.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1505422308)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1589.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1509189662)
I bought the treated post from a local lumber company at pennies on a dollar. They were a little banged up that they couldn't sell. 8) Total cost for my shack was less then $600 with most of that went to metal roofing. ;D
This is my build.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,95740.0.html
When I bought my house there was a bunch of leftover 5/4 composite deck material left for me. It was always in the way. No matter how many times I put it there. I started using 6" squares of it screwed to the ends of any wood I had touching the ground. So far the untreated wood still looks great.
I put 6" pads on the bottom of my wood racks that sit directly on the dirt. works great keeping the ends clean and also does not sink into the dirt.
hmmm... I think I got lost here. The moral of the story is I feel wood should never be in direct contact with dirt. I also like to put the deck material between wood and concrete. So if you do sono tubes with an anchor bolt it never hurts to add a composite pad to separate from concrete. The steel will eventually rust away. believe it or not concrete is corrosive.
When I built my barn and its shed 32 years ago here's what I did on the shed posts. Re-bar goes through the cinder blocks into a footing and post rests on a steel plate also with re-bars about a foot long. A sono tube would have probably been better but I already had blocks.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13036/P1020518.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1510318530)
Kevin,
JH Baxter in Eugene will pressure treat your posts. You can even get them to just dip the ends that will be in the ground. They have 4 or 5 different chemicals they can use including Creosote.
Quote from: KirkD on November 10, 2017, 11:38:25 AM
Kevin,
JH Baxter in Eugene will pressure treat your posts. You can even get them to just dip the ends that will be in the ground. They have 4 or 5 different chemicals they can use including Creosote.
Thanks Kirk, I'll give them a ring.
Quote from: fishfighter on November 10, 2017, 06:19:39 AM
When I built mine, I used 6x6 treated post that were 5' long and bolted 6x6 oak post going up from there. If the treated post last 15 years and I am still around, I will be happy. :D The treated post are in concrete.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1457.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1505422308)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38788/IMG_1589.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1509189662)
I bought the treated post from a local lumber company at pennies on a dollar. They were a little banged up that they couldn't sell. 8) Total cost for my shack was less then $600 with most of that went to metal roofing. ;D
This is my build.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,95740.0.html
How did you tie the pt to the none treated wood? I can't zoom in far enough to see.
Used some 1/2" bolts. The over lap is 12" long. I wanted enough of the treated post out the ground to lift the oak post up high enough that rain or ground splash would not get into the joint even though I slapped a ton of roofing tar in the joint.
Thank you for the day with your\ my sawmill. I would pour concrete footings build off that of pour a slab nothing beats concrete.
Concrete footings are a great idea. Cement slab not so much. I don't like walking/standing on concrete all day, makes this old man's feet hurt and his legs ache.
My 2¢
I really didn't want to use concrete, but without buying pt posts, it may be my best option to pour a couple 2'x2'x6" footingswith metal brackets to bolt the posts to.
My family has been working on building a large two story pool barn. We needed 26' posts. I sawed all 2x6 and laminated the posts. Locust went in the ground and used hemlock on the top. We used 5½ pool barn nails to hold them together. If you go that route you may want to buy a pneumatic Palm nailer. Well worth the money.
Quote from: Crossroads on November 16, 2017, 03:05:09 PM
I really didn't want to use concrete, but without buying pt posts, it may be my best option to pour a couple 2'x2'x6" footingswith metal brackets to bolt the posts to.
Even without treated lumber at contact, the bottom of the post will rot over time. You have to get it high enough to were rain/water is not hitting it.