Having trouble with my bar running up on the Logosol.

[richhiway]

I am cutting some pine logs that have been laying down for a few years. I have a 30" and 18" bar. The problem is more pronounced with the longer bar. The bar rides up as it cuts,it does not stay parallel to the log rests, it bends the bar up, so the boards are wedge shaped. It also rides up away from the log rests and the board is usually thicker in the center. I am using ripping chain with a ten degree angle.

I was having this problem with frozen logs and I thought it was because the logs were frozen, this is the first logs I have cut in warm weather, and they these logs are partially dry.

 

It seems to do it with a new chain, and I keep the chains sharp. Are the logosol bars and narrow kerf chains a lot more rigid?

[richhiway]

I should also mention that after a cut it is hard to pull the saw back over the cut,because there is tension against the bar. If the bar was cutting true,I would guess I would be able to pull the saw back easily over the cut.

because of the tension of the bar bending up,if you cut through the end of the cant,the bar snaps down as it exits and you can not pull the saw back over the cut.

 

[golddredger]

I have milled a bunch with chainsaw prior to owning my bandsaw mill. From your description I would say when you are sharpening your chain one side is a few degrees off from the other. If you are using a ripping chain and you are at 0 degrees on the teeth on one side then are sharpening at 2 degrees on the other the cut and bar will climb to the 2 degree side. I would take a hard look at the chain here. Another thing to do is see if the bar is warn to one side. In this case it would be the upper side when the saw is in cutting posision. I bet it is warn lower. Again due to the chain being shatpened uneven. If you are hand sharpening with a file this is common. You will always sharpen one side different from the other. On fire wood it may not show slicing logs off. But on a long cut when ripping this bad sharpening technique rears its head fast. Sharpen the chain with a good file holder for a near perfect sharpen. Then get your bar serviced so it is true and square. Or flip it over if it has not already been done and start fresh. Good luck. It is all in the chain and the way you are sharpening it.

[richhiway]

Thanks, I do flip the bar,but I bet you are right about the chain.  Thanks.

[mad murdock]

The chain that Logosol recommends is the stihl 63PMX ripping chain. Aside from making sure your sharpening is uniform left and right sides, check parallel on your bar rails, that can have a bearing on cutting straight and true. I file my rails every time I flip the bar over to ensure even wear, and straight running chain. Are you using good bar oil and have the oiler turned l the way up to the max setting?  Especially on the longer bar, you need to be getting plenty of oil on the chain. One thing about the picco (63PMX) chain is the "oil-o-matic" feature built into the drive links. It really improves the chain oiling overall.

[logboy]

Another possibility not mentioned is the groove in the bar. Over time the groove can get too wide and not hold the chain straight and true, allowing even a sharp chain to climb.  If you can wiggle the chain side to side more than usual, this may be your problem and you need to dress your bar. I ran into this issue on my slabber.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Another possibility not mentioned is the groove in the bar. Over time the groove can get too wide and not hold the chain straight and true, allowing even a sharp chain to climb.  If you can wiggle the chain side to side more than usual, this may be your problem and you need to dress your bar. I ran into this issue on my slabber.

How do you narrow the groove again?  Hammer it? or use on of those bar roller devices?

[richhiway]

The chain that Logosol recommends is the stihl 63PMX ripping chain. Aside from making sure your sharpening is uniform left and right sides, check parallel on your bar rails, that can have a bearing on cutting straight and true. I file my rails every time I flip the bar over to ensure even wear, and straight running chain. Are you using good bar oil and have the oiler turned l the way up to the max setting?  Especially on the longer bar, you need to be getting plenty of oil on the chain. One thing about the picco (63PMX) chain is the "oil-o-matic" feature built into the drive links. It really improves the chain oiling overall.

Thanks!  I will look into that chain, I have been using Bailey's Chain. Where is a good place to buy the sthil chain? Is there a sponsor of the forum that sells it? And yes I have the oil turned up and use a oil squirt can if it is a long,wide cut.

[thenne1713]

Another possibility not mentioned is the groove in the bar. Over time the groove can get too wide and not hold the chain straight and true, allowing even a sharp chain to climb.  If you can wiggle the chain side to side more than usual, this may be your problem and you need to dress your bar. I ran into this issue on my slabber.

How do you narrow the groove again?  Hammer it? or use on of those bar roller devices?

USE THE BAR ROLLER DEVICE TO CLOSE THE BAR GROOVE BACK TO SPEC

[thenne1713]

So, RICH, What did you find?  Was the bar worn uneven, or groove spread?  Or chain cutters uneven?  Let us know... (I run a M8, & have not encountered this while milling, but know the manual addresses in the Troubleshooting section)
???

[landscraper]

Another possibility not mentioned is the groove in the bar. Over time the groove can get too wide and not hold the chain straight and true, allowing even a sharp chain to climb.  If you can wiggle the chain side to side more than usual, this may be your problem and you need to dress your bar. I ran into this issue on my slabber.

How do you narrow the groove again?  Hammer it? or use on of those bar roller devices?

Bar rail closer.  That and a bar dresser file will keep you cutting like a champ.

[richhiway]

Thanks for all the good advice. It is all important information. I have been struggling with this for a while now and by keeping the chain sharp and gaining experience I was doing ok.  I had been using my 044 all along and today I picked up a good used 046 magnum. As soon as I started using it I knew it was cutting better. It just glided through the cuts without effort and cut true. The bar doesn't drop down after the cut and you can return the saw over the cut without dragging. Same bar and chain as I was using. And although the 046 has more power,power was never an issue. What I am thinking is that the bar on the 044 is not mounting square to the bar studs and that saw is sitting in the carriage at an slight angle. Does anyone know if that is possible?

[mobile sawmill services]

i am familiar with your problem, you need to set the bar/saw combination up on the mill, could be the nut faces on the chain cover are not sitting in the same plane, if you have the manual it explains it in there, but here goes:- set the lifting beam to 2", place an accurate 2" thick piece on the lifting arm, bring the saw, mounted as for work up to the 2"piece, the front edge of the chain teeth should just clear the piece by thou's along its whole length, any missalignment will show up clearly, up or down angle is taken out by shimming the carraige(shim strip between the carraige and the guides, make sure the guides arent worn, the nylon inserts are classed as wear items)front mount raises the nose of the bar, rear lowers it, if the 2" is below or above the teeth, adjust the lifting beam, repeat for the back edge of the bar. the more time and care that you take doing this , the better your cut will be, repeat the height  check on the other liffting arm. I assume you have aligned your mill so it is straight and has no twist in the guide beam.
I find that after any movements from 1 site to another it takes me around 15-20 mins to reset everything spot on, but the mill will cut off 1/16 boards if its set right, and with a properly sharpened chain will only need a sanding to  give a finished board( no striations like a bandmill requiring planing)

good luck setting it up, its worth it

[richhiway]

That must have been the problem. I did replace those inserts. Yes I also had checked the beam to be true. It is amazing the difference with the new saw. Thanks for the good advise on setting up the mill.