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wood splitter

Started by 4430jd, December 20, 2012, 08:37:51 PM

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rooster 58

     I have an old "Brave" 20 ton horizontal. never put a block up it wouldn't lick. The great big uns I made a ramp out of splits and rolled them on.

     That being said, I wish I had a Timberwolf type with a loader and 4 or 6 way wedge. Even more, I'd like to have a blockbuster firewood processor ;)

beenthere

If I get an urge to change to anything, it would be the Logrite splitter.

It covers a wide range of needs for splitting wood.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zAEps8cCxs
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

woodandtractors

Looks like a very well made and well-engineered splitter.How much does it cost?
I bought a Timberwolf TW-5FC about 10 years ago with the optional log lifter-at the time about $6500. I now only use it for the big uglies I don't put through the wood processor. The splitters that can change from horizontal to vertical are fine if you are physically able to work on your knees or in a crouching position-I'm not. If you're young and limber,go for it. As a young man I split hundreds of cords with a Sotz Monster Maul but those days are long gone!
Mike
Still plays with tractors-IH of course!

dodgerd6b

I have a an American wood splitter (think they are made in Syracuse area), honda engine and a hydraulic lift to save my back, runs like a top, no complaints, did about 10 cords last year. They have a big display at Booonville every yeary, nice folks
1969 TreeFarmer c6cd, Caterpillar D6B 44a, Woodmizer 40

muckamuck

I have the 22ton northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company horizontal/vertical on wheels 160cc.  The 4 way wedge works well on softwood or easy to split wood but most of the time I use the single wedge on hardwood. I think it was about $1300 and worth the price.  I have cut round 42 inch ash in vertical, but it is a workout rolling them into place.  Normally ash is easy but the old stuff can be tough.  Be sure to use gas preservative (seafoam or marine stabil) in those small engines.

John Mc

Quote from: beenthere on January 21, 2013, 03:08:44 PM
If I get an urge to change to anything, it would be the Logrite splitter.

It covers a wide range of needs for splitting wood.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zAEps8cCxs

Yes, those are a well thought-out design.  They are built around a SuperSplit splitter, with a couple of modifications.  I think they fill a great niche between someone whose needs have outgrown a stand-alone splitter, but who can't justify a full-blown firewood processor.  If I had need for more than just my personal use, I'd consider one of these (or if I could convince those in my landowner co-op to pitch in on one).
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Jack72

Quote from: muckamuck on January 21, 2013, 07:21:51 PM
I have the 22ton northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company horizontal/vertical on wheels 160cc.  The 4 way wedge works well on softwood or easy to split wood but most of the time I use the single wedge on hardwood. I think it was about $1300 and worth the price.  I have cut round 42 inch ash in vertical, but it is a workout rolling them into place.  Normally ash is easy but the old stuff can be tough.  Be sure to use gas preservative (seafoam or marine stabil) in those small engines.

I have the same splitter too.(northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company )    I agree I'm happy with mine for the price
13 Chevy Duramax
Stihl 046 036 009
Northern 25 Ton Splitter

r.man

I really like the look of the logrite equipment. The arches seem to work well, especially when compared to that other company and the splitter is inspired.( didn't want to trigger Jeff's little blurp about them but anyone who hasn't clicked on it and watched the video should, it's enlightening) I did however get a kick out of the improvised chock board on the cutting table to keep the blocks from falling on the chainsaw operators shins. I have been cutting in a log pile lately and wish that I had something to protect mine.
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

Sonofman

I have an older Yard Machines by MTD. I don't split a lot, perhaps 1.5 to 2 cords a year. I split as much of my wood as I can by splitting maul to help keep me in shape. If a round gets sassy, I get Mr MTD out, and get sassy right back. It is Horz-Vert. I have never used it in Horizontal mode, just saying. I put her in vertical, drag up a longish round to sit on, drag up some rounds right close to split, and have at it. My splitter says it is 27 tons and has an 8 horse Briggs. The motor is a little hard to start when really cold, but starting fluid takes care of that. I like Briggs cause they are good and there are a lot of them around, so they are easy to get parts for and worked on. The only thing I do not like is I wish the motor was a little smaller. It hardly ever stalls (good) but uses a lot of gas (not so good).

If the rounds are too big to handle, I roll the splitter to it, put the splitting beam in vertical, get a chain and comealong. The chain hooks to the towing safety chains on the hitch end of the splitter, wraps around the round, then to the comealong, then the comealong back to the safety chains. Ratchet in the cable of the comealong, and the round will come up to the splitter or the splitter will come up to the round. Either one is acceptable to me.
Located due west of Due West.

beenthere

If a round gets "sassy" or not moveable, I just start the chainsaw and render it down quickly into movable parts.  Takes very little time, and the saw cuts about as fast along the grain as it does across the grain.
I don't fight the ugly sassy ones.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

postville

I have a Super Split, made in Mass. It is 20 years old and still going. The is always someone there to answer the phone and it is the same man who makes the machines. I have had a few repairs, but not many.I bought it from a professional firewood cutter when it was 10 years old. Probably had split 1000 cds. or more.
It is the same splitter as the Log Rite, just without the tables and winch.
I'd buy another if this one ever wears out.
LT40 25hp Kohler, Gehl 6635, Valby grapple, Ford 4600, Farmi winch, Stihl saws

r.man

Sonofman you should check the jet settings on your Briggs. It should be fairly easy on fuel. The hard to start when cold may indicate a problem as well. Have a friend who used to split with a three point on a 6 cyl JD farm tractor. Talk about gas use.
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

Sonofman

I had thought about that, r.man, but there is one piece of info I did not post. Even after the motor warms up, I have to keep the choke at about 50% to keep it running. If I take the choke off, as I do, it starts stuttering and backfiring like it is too lean. If the choke is completely removed, it quits totally.

I think that just with it running wide open all  the time with splitting, it uses what I think is a lot of fuel. The fuel tank holds about 2 quarts and will run it for between 35 and 40 mins of splitting. Perhaps this is not really a lot, but it seems so to me.

I might take it to get looked at this summer when I am not using it. Thanks for the advice.
Located due west of Due West.

sawguy21

Sounds like your carb needs a thorough cleaning. The air bleeds are clogged. You should get much better run time than that.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Sonofman

Yeah, now that I think about it, something is most likely wrong. I will take it in for service this summer. Hey, it is only 15 years old and has given me no trouble. Thanks.

This is what I really like about Briggs, easy to get them worked on. My mower has a Kohler engine, a good engine, but I had carb troubles with it for a while, and it was not real easy to get it worked on.
Located due west of Due West.

JuniperBoss

Those PTO splitters really seem like over-kill to split a piece of wood. Sure they can split anything, but think of all that fuel your using to do it. A nice 6-12 hp small gas engine hydraulic splitter is hard to beat. If I made one myself I would make that for sure.

Back to the question. I would look at the "Super Split" if your thinking of buying a new splitter. Those things split fast!
"The three great essentials to achieve anything worthwhile are, first, hard work; second, stick-to-itiveness; third, common sense." --- Thomas Edison

logman81

I recantly went to a local dealership and looked at the american brand splitters. Nice units but was shocked at the price of such a simple machine. I'm going to build my own soon with a small 13hp gas engine with a single stage pump. I also plan to build a hydraulic log lift on it to. I had a tw5 for many years and recantly sold it a few months ago. Now I need a splitter so I'm going to build my own for less money. May even build and sell them locally.
Precision Firewood & Logging

gspren

Quote from: JuniperBoss on January 27, 2013, 08:56:53 PM
Those PTO splitters really seem like over-kill to split a piece of wood. Sure they can split anything, but think of all that fuel your using to do it. A nice 6-12 hp small gas engine hydraulic splitter is hard to beat. If I made one myself I would make that for sure.


If you don't split a lot of wood the money saved in not buying and maintaining a seperate engine will buy a bunch of gas/diesel. The tractor powered splitters do work well for some people.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

John Mc

Quote from: logman81 on January 28, 2013, 08:24:52 AM
... I'm going to build my own soon with a small 13hp gas engine with a single stage pump.

Why not a two-stage pump?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

JuniperBoss

Gspren, you made a good point. If you don't split a lot or don't want to spend a lot of money on a fancy hydraulic splitter then I suppose that is a good way to go. I think it would add up though, if you used it all your life.
"The three great essentials to achieve anything worthwhile are, first, hard work; second, stick-to-itiveness; third, common sense." --- Thomas Edison

logman81

Two stage pumps are good but slow way down in tough wood. Single stage pumps have the same cycle time no matter what the wood is like. They also run cooler and have a longer service life.
Precision Firewood & Logging

JuniperBoss

Looks like you did your homework :P.
"The three great essentials to achieve anything worthwhile are, first, hard work; second, stick-to-itiveness; third, common sense." --- Thomas Edison

blackfoot griz

Quote from: logman81 on January 28, 2013, 11:15:27 AM
Two stage pumps are good but slow way down in tough wood. Single stage pumps have the same cycle time no matter what the wood is like. They also run cooler and have a longer service life.

Logman 81,

What are the specs on the pump you plan to use on a 13 hp motor?
What size cylinder do you plan on using?

Please recheck my math, but assuming a 4" Cylinder with a 2 " rod:

A 13 hp motor can handle a pump w/ 6.5 gpm @ 3,000 psi

The speed for the above would= 2 inches per second push--2.7 inches per second retract which is kind of slow. You could increase the flow (speed) by lowering the psi and increasing the flow but you'll loose force on the business end.

Using a 2 stage pump rated @ 22 gpm....sure it will kick down when you hit a knot etc, but overall, I think it would be more productive.

logman81

I may have to re think it? I plan to use a 4x30x2 cylinder and a pump around 28 gpm single stage. Going to need a bigger motor more than likely. Is there a formula to use to figure out cycle times and hp requirments?
Precision Firewood & Logging

muddstopper

You can go to surplus centers site. they have a tech section with calculators to help you do all the math. But, yea, for a 28gpm single stage pump, you will need a lot more motor, probably close to 40hp

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