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Daily Fabrication Thread

Started by mike_belben, January 29, 2018, 09:49:04 AM

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Klicker

mike_belben What size pto shaft did you use  B100  what rpm do you use. I have one and like the way you have yours done.
2006 LT 40 HD

mike_belben

On the chipper?  


I have a 540/1000 and tend to run it in high for fast throughput of brush.  Anything big enough to demand low gear id keep for firewood.  

The shredder drum shaft is 25mm and had a proprietary 3 jaw coupling unique to BCS in a double captured bearing tube.  I had to cut the tube and lose the outer bearing to expose enough of the 25mm shaft.  Then i put a 25mm flange bearing over the shaft and rigged up a 1-3/8 six spline adapter that i bored to 25mm ID.  That taps over the metric shaft and uses a 1/4 bolt for shear pin to get a standard usa pto shaft on it.   I will get a pic up later for you.  
Praise The Lord

Klicker

Thanks it gives me something to think about.
2006 LT 40 HD

mike_belben

Frame work in the way prevented the shear pin hole from going in straight but it dont matter. 



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Tacotodd

@mike_belben if using a bolt for a shear pin (because it's been a subject to me in the past) what has worked better for you?
Trying harder everyday.

mike_belben

Ive never had any shearpin trouble to compare really.  Just whatever i stick in the hole seems to work.   


I can tell you ive put all 16hp through the prop shaft on my deere 140 puller and its just a 3/16 shearpin.  Drove it out yesterday.
Praise The Lord

Tacotodd

Trying harder everyday.

HemlockKing

Quote from: mike_belben on May 02, 2021, 03:24:54 PM
Frame work in the way prevented the shear pin hole from going in straight but it dont matter.




I'd use a grade 5 bolt for a shear pin thats a grade 8, grade 8 is pretty strong, or is that what you anticipated?
A1

mike_belben

Id prefer the pin shear with ease and protect my investment. Its my first chipper so i didnt know what i was in for but it hasnt sheared a bolt yet and ive chipped as big as i ever will.  


Next phase for this is going on a caster wheel setup so it can pull a trailer too.  Firewood limbs in the trailer, brush through the chipper.  
Praise The Lord

HemlockKing

Quote from: mike_belben on May 02, 2021, 05:28:40 PM
Id prefer the pin shear with ease and protect my investment. Its my first chipper so i didnt know what i was in for but it hasnt sheared a bolt yet and ive chipped as big as i ever will.  


Next phase for this is going on a caster wheel setup so it can pull a trailer too.  Firewood limbs in the trailer, brush through the chipper.  
I'm pretty sure a grade 5 will shear much easier than a grade 8  :D Better yet grade 2 
A1

mike_belben

I didnt even look at it.  Just stuck bolt in hole.  Im sure i have softer ones in the bin
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HemlockKing

Quote from: mike_belben on May 02, 2021, 06:15:35 PM
I didnt even look at it.  Just stuck bolt in hole.  Im sure i have softer ones in the bin
You may have been right actually mike. I searched and some say a grade 8 is actually better because they will just snap(brittle) the softer ones tend to bend, although I did find others saying the other way around, i always went with the Lowe grade ones but now I'm not so sure...
A1

mike_belben

As long as the 25mm stub shaft doesnt break im in good shape.  


On to the batquad. 



Praise The Lord

Tacotodd

Quote from: HemlockKing on May 02, 2021, 06:18:48 PM
Quote from: mike_belben on May 02, 2021, 06:15:35 PM
I didnt even look at it.  Just stuck bolt in hole.  Im sure i have softer ones in the bin
You may have been right actually mike. I searched and some say a grade 8 is actually better because they will just snap(brittle) the softer ones tend to bend, although I did find others saying the other way around, i always went with the Lowe grade ones but now I'm not so sure...


THAT had more meaning than just the one intended, whether you meant it or not! Just the Lowe grade 🤔
Trying harder everyday.

PoginyHill

I'm not a shear pin expert, but if you put in a Gr 5 or Gr 8 bolt, I don't think it acts much as a shear pin. I know of a person who used a Gr 8 bolt in place of a shear pin and ruined their brush hog gear box. I'd start with Gr 2 and see if it shears much, if at all. Then maybe grind a groove in a Gr 5 as a next step if it shears too often or with only a light surge load.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

HemlockKing

Quote from: PoginyHill on May 03, 2021, 08:00:11 AM
I'm not a shear pin expert, but if you put in a Gr 5 or Gr 8 bolt, I don't think it acts much as a shear pin. I know of a person who used a Gr 8 bolt in place of a shear pin and ruined their brush hog gear box. I'd start with Gr 2 and see if it shears much, if at all. Then maybe grind a groove in a Gr 5 as a next step if it shears too often or with only a light surge load.
Better yet how about a brass shear pin? Could get brass rod/round bar toss a die on it and thread each end and 2 jam nuts each side? I'm pretty sure JD used grade 5 shear pins 
A1

HemlockKing

Quote from: Tacotodd on May 03, 2021, 01:24:09 AM
Quote from: HemlockKing on May 02, 2021, 06:18:48 PM
Quote from: mike_belben on May 02, 2021, 06:15:35 PM
I didnt even look at it.  Just stuck bolt in hole.  Im sure i have softer ones in the bin
You may have been right actually mike. I searched and some say a grade 8 is actually better because they will just snap(brittle) the softer ones tend to bend, although I did find others saying the other way around, i always went with the Lowe grade ones but now I'm not so sure...


THAT had more meaning than just the one intended, whether you meant it or not! Just the Lowe grade 🤔
:D :D, I get most of my offshore junk items from Canadian tire
A1

Ed_K

 Yrs ago I was told by a J.D. mechanic to use a # 8 - 5/16" bolt on a #5 J.D. mower as the #5 would bend and the wooden pitman bar would break. He was right  ;D :(.
Ed K

Roundhouse

I just wrapped up a "winter" project this week. This one is a rebuild of a small trailer I've had for quite a long time.

First a little background, I picked up this trailer at an auction years ago. IIRC I paid $60 for it and it's a home built farm/yard trailer. When I bought it there was a hitch pin drawbar on it and a simple wooden box. At that time I liked it for pulling behind my four cylinder S10, my four wheeler fit perfectly in the box so I set about giving it a makeover. I built a tailgate to go on it, set it up with taillights, converted it to a 1 7/8" ball coupler, and set up a pvc "wagontop" style covering to keep my machine out of the weather. 

Here is a look at the trailer as I was installing the removable pvc frame. The uprights sat in the pockets on the side of the trailer, with a tarp placed over the top and secured, the whole thing was held in place. 




Here is the whole rig in use. Most of the time I stored my four wheeler in the trailer at my dad's camp and would move it in the trailer or pull the trailer behind the four wheeler.




Fast forward 10+ years. In time I built permanent storage on my lot where my four wheeler would live and I ended up with a bunch of different sized trailers suited to various tasks. My little trailer fell into disuse sitting at the edge of my dad's camp lot. After seeing it collect dust for years I knew I had to do something with it. The tires were flat and the box was rotting. Last fall I was poised to make make the trip home with an empty trailer and decided it was time to load it up and bring it back for some overdue attention. 

Once home the disassembly began, the taillights were still in great shape so I took them off in one piece with all the wiring, harvested all the hardware, removed the ball hitch coupler and used on another project, safety chains, then broke apart the remaining rotted wood for the burn pile. 




With the frame exposed for the first time in years I was able to clean it up a bit and apply a coat of primer before real winter set in and the work on the trailer paused. This was a good time to determine what the trailer would become. With other trailers filling most of my niches I was able to identify a need for use around the woods. A branch and slash hauler. In some places I simply cut up the tops so they rest on the ground for decomposition, in other places I want to clean up the brush, tops, and limbs hauling them to common brush and burn piles. The trailer is the perfect size to pull behind the four wheeler and make quick turn trips between the cuttings and piles. I started drawing up a rack that could be built on the frame, easy to load and no floor to render it "self-cleaning". 

Once the weather warmed up, the frame, springs and axle got a coat of gloss black.




For the U-shaped rack ribs I used some 1 x 4 hard maple I milled up a few years back, decent stock but not perfect, a little cupped. I figure it is plenty strong enough but a small cross section and reasonable weight. I would need to have four of these my design. Here are the four ribs (upside down) after I bolted them together. 




Looking through my paint stock revealed a quart of "Safety Orange" so that was an easy choice for the wood framing. 




I bought three leaf spring U-bolts to fasten the wooden rack to the trailer frame. They were a perfect fit but lacked a plate. So it was off to the scrap pile. Amongst the pile of odd-stock steel brought home from an auction years ago was this long bar, probably part of a long gone implement. I was pleased to find three sets of holes in this bar that lined up perfectly with the U-bolts, only needing to be bored out a little.







With the bar cut into sections it was time for a quick coat of paint. Once dry I had all the pieces for final assembly.




Here is the completed rebuild. The only major expense in this project was the new set of tires replacing the old dry rotted ones that were worn when I bought the trailer years ago. The horizontal planks tying the uprights together are hard maple as well, some exta 2/4 siding I milled a couple years ago. By the time I was ready to paint these planks the Safety Orange was all used up so I switched to Allis Chalmers orange (Persian #1), it's a shade or two darker but doesn't always look it in the photos. I figure it will look pretty good behind my AC tractor.




A look through the open middle of my the trailer. There is one U-bolt at the front and each of the back corners. The frame tapers towards the front, I cut a half inch notch in the bottom of the wood so the rack shouldn't move around at all when the trailer is bouncing down the trails. The rack is 6 feet long but "endless" so lightweight material can hang out the back as needed.




One last glamour shot before it goes to work and gets scuffed and dirty. It's not an illusion, the frame is a little tweaked as was the rack once I had it together, since they were crooked in the same direction the finished product maintains the same "character". There is one bolt missing on a sideboard here, the hard maple is very unforgiving. Despite pre-drilling everything with generous holes if you overtorque the lag bolt at all the wood doesn't strip out the bolt shears. Once it's in use I'll have to post an update loaded with brush or maybe trimmings off the mill.




Thanks for reading, I hope this trailer proves as useful as I imagine it to be. Feels good to get it back to work again.
Woodland Mills HM130, 1995 F350 7.3L, 1994 F350 flatbed/crane, 1988 F350 dump, Owatonna 770 rough terrain forklift, 1938 Allis-Chalmers reverse WC tractor loader, 1979 Ford CL340 Skid Steer, 1948 Allis-Chalmers B, 1988 Yamaha Moto-4 200, various chain saws

mike_belben

Praise The Lord

g_man

This is a pretty simple one but made a big difference. Last year I put a picture on picking up firewood with my little trailer and splitter. Haleiwa mentioned that if I turned the splitter around some how, it would be easier on me. I did and he was right!!

I welded a second set of mounting ears and a couple lift lugs onto the beam so I could mount it in either direction.



 



 

When I run with the beam backwards it puts the work station close to the trailer and it is just a short lob into the trailer - much better. Thank you Haleiwa  :)



 



 

gg

Satamax

Nice G_man.

Next job, for you, if you accept the mission. ;D Would be to make yourself a table around that splitter. Like a Rabaud F31 or Lancman XLE 32.

I have worked on the later, and it's nice not to have to pick up the split pieces from the ground.
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

PoginyHill

I was looking to raise the height of the drawbar on my tractor. It is about 12" off the ground, 3-4" lower than tongue height would be on my trailers for level. Looking for an off-set drawbar for my model (M7060) - I could find nothing for a simple off-set bar. Only a bolt-on hammer strap that would raise it 3" And that was very pricey. So I had my local fab shop bend a piece of 1-1/2 X 2-1/2 cold-rolled bar for an offset of 4" and drill two holes. I was a bit concerned that the cold-rolled steel is not as strong as OEM draw bar, as I believe those are an alloy steel, not mild steel. So I added a section that used a second hole and pin. Hopefully that will resist any tendency for tongue weight to bend the bar down.



 

 

 

Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

Iwawoodwork

Stronger yet would be a gusset of 2" strap on edge welded underneath from end to end leaving enough room for hitch clearance.

PoginyHill

Quote from: Iwawoodwork on May 13, 2021, 09:10:01 PM
Stronger yet would be a gusset of 2" strap on edge welded underneath from end to end leaving enough room for hitch clearance.
I have considered this. The weakest point of the original piece is the bend closest to the tractor. With that addressed, the next point would be the bend near the hitch. The question then is, will I have enough tongue weight to bend the 1-1/2"X2-1/2" bar with a lever arm of about 5" (distance from bend to center of hitch hole. I am thinking no, but I'll keep a close eye and will do as you suggest if I see any indication of deformation.
Kubota M7060 & B2401, Metavic log trailer, Cat E70B, Cat D5C, 750 Grizzly ATV, Wallenstein FX110, 84" Landpride rotary hog, Classic Edge 750, Stihl 170, 261, 462

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