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Daily Fabrication Thread

Started by mike_belben, January 29, 2018, 09:49:04 AM

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mike_belben

If you buy a dozer you wont wanna sell it. 
Praise The Lord

Roundhouse

Quote from: mike_belben on July 12, 2021, 01:34:52 PM
If you buy a dozer you wont wanna sell it.
That's probably the largest concern. I tend to take my time shopping and be careful about what I buy and how much I pay. As a result I tend to hang on to what I have for a long time. There seems to be a sweet spot where the machine isn't a basket case but also isn't so new that it's bleeding value if it sits most of the time. Or maybe I've been lucky most of the time. It's all still an elaborate hobby for me so if I can't pay cash out of the fun fund I don't buy. Since I don't smoke, drink or boat my vice is using old iron in the woods.
Woodland Mills HM130, 1995 F350 7.3L, 1994 F350 flatbed/crane, 1988 F350 dump, Owatonna 770 rough terrain forklift, 1938 Allis-Chalmers reverse WC tractor loader, 1979 Ford CL340 Skid Steer, 1948 Allis-Chalmers B, 1988 Yamaha Moto-4 200, various chain saws

mike_belben

Mine too.  It's unfortunate there isnt a good acronym for this.  BOAPOHF just doesnt ring. 

Thats bust out another pail of hydraulic fluid, of course. 
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mike_belben

Same spot i crimped, very hearty, early germination and establishment of cool season seeds in the dead of hot season. Im waiting to see if they survive august. My conclusion is a roller crimper is worth the effort to build.  I only rolled one time and did nothing else. Did not seed it either, the roller caused a perennial crop.  The spots i did not roll elsewhere only have unwanted oak and sassafrass seedlings coming up.





And this one isnt fab but i felt pretty clever.  Spent maple tap for a right angle caulking applicator

  I had to put a bead under the edge of some really flat tin to try to get a clean drip.  Water has been clinging underneath and wicking up the underside. That tin and gutter are over a storage truckbody as if they were 3" off the ground. So I couldnt angle the gun to caulk this underside any other way





Tried it this morning and every drop falls clean off the edge into the gutter just right.  Looks like no more wicking back up the framing lumber or pouring down the container doors and splashing my welder.
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mike_belben

If you want to lay in flat bottom trenches, you want a bucket with a long flat bottom.





That also helped make side swipe smoothing and backfilling much more precise and efficient.  Very happy.






Root grubbers on the backside came in handy today.




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teakwood

nice bucket mike, but the curl in geometry , brake out force is way off in such a extended  bucket, i don't know if that matters on a backhoe though
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

mike_belben

Thats why the rippers are on back with their leverage ratio being much much higher than the front edge.  It worked excellent on a septic repair yesterday.

a 6 inch wide bucket has enough PSI to do pretty well in clay even being super long.  And besides its only a pin on tractor hoe, im not ripping ledge or filling articulated dumpers!  It does dig differently though.  You point it straight down and rake toward you like a garden hoe. Then roll under and strip off a straight line like a sod cutter or potato peeler, ice cream scoop etc.  It digs linear strokes instead of arcs.  

Makes it much much easier to get a flat trench floor.  When you sweep the spoils away by swinging to the side, you also get flat clean ground instead of little crescents. I love it.  But i would not want it for a GP bucket at all. Its only good at one thing.  If you were going down to finished depth and trying to break out a foot deep of hard trench at a time it is definitely weaker at the breakout tip. 
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mike_belben

Finished up an emergencyish drainage repair for a neighbor today, bucket is excellent.  










It sidesweeps very clean and flat.  Look at the grass where the dirtpile was. That was entirely by machine, no hand labor.








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Kodiakmac

A couple of months ago I picked up a 7-ton John Deere running gear for $350.00 CDN.  There was a bend in the reach about 14 inches from one end, so I split the wagon and cut off the bent part.  With that piece cut off, I am still able to get from 7' to 11' between the bunks.

The bunks are 6" x 3" x 1/4' rectangular channel steel 66' long; the bunks sit on 2 1/2" x 1/4" inch square tube vertical supports that are bolted to the original bolsters; and the braces that tie in the bunks to the frame are 1/4" x 3" flat steel stock.  

The standards (upright posts) are 2 1/2" x 1/4" inch square tube, 4' long.  I will be rigging up a one-pull lever/cable release on the right side (facing forward) that will simultaneously pull out 1 of the draw-pins at the bottom of each standard; the other 2 pins will be removed by hand  prior to pulling the release.  I drilled out the 4 holes on the bottom of the right side standards to 1" diameter and welded in a section of 1 " pipe to act as a bushing to reduce friction and binding when the draw-pins are yanked out by the release.

The chains running from standard to standard are flipped out of the way when loading, then snugged up by binders when loaded up.  The chains remain in place when the trip lever is pulled.  So the bottom of the right-side standards will kick out when the pins are pulled.  

Patent Pending .... :D :D :D




 




 



Robin Hood had it just about right:  as long as a man has family, friends, deer and beer...he needs very little government!
Kioti rx7320, Wallenstein fx110 winch, Echo CS510, Stihl MS362cm, Stihl 051AV, Wallenstein wx980  Mark 8:36

mike_belben

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aigheadish

@mike_belben that bucket does look dang handy. I'd love to design a slip on edge or bucket for my backhoe like that. Every once in a while I can swipe dirt from grass, like you did, with my big, normal bucket and boy is it satisfying to do, it'd be lovely to do it easily.

I guess this is the Fabrication thread...


I've got the need to infinite rocks and I have about 2 acres of land in which I'm not really disturbing much by digging it up, screening it, then pushing all the dirt back in the hole. I'm trying to figure out a good design for screening rocks. I've seen some examples of a pretty substantial wooden frame with chain link fence set at about 45 degrees, then a finer screen to catch smaller rocks. As usual I'm aiming to do it for a little money as possible. 

I've also heard of folks that built a screen that would flip down over their loader buckets but I'm not sure if they were being used to screen rocks out or dirt out and rocks in... I think that's a bit more than I'm capable of with my current tools and supplies. 

I can afford a bit of wood and fence or screen but there are certainly some engineering aspects I'm not thinking of...
New Holland LB75b, Husqvarna 455 Rancher, Husqvarna GTH52XLS, Hammerhead 250, Honda VTX1300 for now and probably for sale (let me know if you are interested!)

Crusarius

aig, what is your skillset? For me the first thing I would consider is a drum separator. easy to build and easy to power. just dump a load of dirt in and let it spin till its empty. then repeat. If built properly you should end up with separate piles of different sizes.

Hmmm now that I think about it, easy build would involve using expanded metal. But multiple sorting stations would involve quite a bit more work.

btulloh

Interesting, fun, and useful project.

X2 what Crusarius said.  A trammel is pretty simple, but a second sort for size would still require a screen deck below.  Screen deck(s) need some oscillation or shaker movement to get stuff through.  If you've got really big rocks you'd need grizzly bars as the very first stage.  It can get complicated - or fun, depending on how you look at it.  Like Crusarius said, it depends on your fab skills - and your bone pile.

I saw a trammel setup that was driven by mounting a riding lawnmower on top of the trammel with the rear wheels providing rotation just by the friction of the back tires.  Kinda simple but not the most dependable drive system.  Then you still need something to shake the screen deck.

To check the screen concept you could make a thing like archeologists use in an hour or less.  2x4 frame with mesh across the bottom. Two 2x4 legs at the center.  Needs to be fed by one person with shovel or bucket while the other person provides the motion to the screen.

Good luck.  I look forward to watching the progress.
HM126

Crusarius

Picture in my head is a long tube starting with a fine mesh then about an 18" solid spot for pile separation then a slightly larger mesh and so on. 

Would have to have a spot to dump dirt in, be able to access underneath to remove piles, and have it powered. Depending on how crazy you get you could sort everything in one shot and just have piles of different coarseness depending on the mesh.

I think the 18" smooth spot would be enough to leave a small separation and not have cross contamination.

This is something I would love to build but most of my soil is nasty clay. I doubt this will work well with clay. especially wet.

aigheadish

These folks built a couple versions of the wooden frame version I was talking about, and it looks like it'd work well enough without being motorized, for my uses. If allowed on this forum, you can see kind of what I'm talking about when searching, like here

My skillset is limited but I'm not afraid to try stuff, if I can motivate my way into getting out to do it. I like to learn and experiment with things and I'm not afraid to ask masterminds, like you all. 

I completely understand what you mean by the trommel and I'd imagine I could find an old washing machine motor or something to connect that to, though I've never really done something like that before. I don't know if the scale would be correct as the amount of dirt I'd like to run through, I think, would overwhelm what I could build in a trommel sense. Let's call it around a yard of material, per loader dump, with very few rocks bigger than a basketball, but lots (used loosely, I don't think it'll really be "lots") between golf ball and softball, maybe? My first hole is about 15 feet deep and has made quite the pile of material to sort through. I can dig that hole in around an hour. 

I know there are some rocks in the ground here and there. When my pond was dug up by the house's builder they pulled out a rock just a bit smaller than a VW Beetle, and I've dug up a few that are probably a quarter that big. My hope is to find a lot of the small stuff and, ideally, a couple hundred bigger ones between basketball size and golf cart size. 

New Holland LB75b, Husqvarna 455 Rancher, Husqvarna GTH52XLS, Hammerhead 250, Honda VTX1300 for now and probably for sale (let me know if you are interested!)

btulloh

I like the concept. One long thing, one simple movement. 

A search on "diy trammel" should turn up a lot of info on prior art. 

The commercial stuff I've seen all sorts from big to small in successive stages. Maybe they're overlooking the better mousetrap. IDK, I'm just a casual observer.
HM126

btulloh

Well my last reply relates to Crusarius post, if that's not obvious. 

So aigheadish, you're already on the research path. No moving parts.  The google thread you linked to brings up the whole range of possibilities. I'm already lost in a bunch of other rabbit holes, so I'm staying out of this one just watch. 

My big problem with the first approach with 2x4's and chicken wire is that I'd much rather see some steel, motors, gears, belts, etc. getting tossed around.   :D :D :D
HM126

aigheadish

I certainly like the "no moving parts" aspect to the frame and wire thing. And it's well within my skillset. I've seen and read of some folks who basically used chain link fence on the 45 degree then drop it down to maybe 1" openings in chicken wire or something. The 2x4s and chicken wire do leave some durability questions, without a doubt I'll use some beefier supplies, but I don't have the scrapyard to scrounge metal from, unfortunately. I do have an old tractor mower deck and a flail mower that I could possibly use parts from... I don't know, they may also be seized up for all I know. 

I'll have to look to see if I can find expanded metal with bigger expansions than I've previously seen or paid attention to. I also like the no moving parts part because I should be able to easily pick the whole thing up with the backhoe and move it to the next spot, without dragging huge amounts of material all over the place. 

There is the aspect with the trommel that it seems like it'd probably do a much better job but the complexity rises significantly. 

Luckily the only deadline is my own desire to redo the pond so I can make it a nice swimming hole. 
New Holland LB75b, Husqvarna 455 Rancher, Husqvarna GTH52XLS, Hammerhead 250, Honda VTX1300 for now and probably for sale (let me know if you are interested!)

btulloh

Roger that.  It only needs to do a good enough job to suit the client (which is you).

Maybe Crusarius will jump into the trommel build.

HM126

Walnut Beast

Quote from: Kodiakmac on August 11, 2021, 12:35:57 PM
A couple of months ago I picked up a 7-ton John Deere running gear for $350.00 CDN.  There was a bend in the reach about 14 inches from one end, so I split the wagon and cut off the bent part.  With that piece cut off, I am still able to get from 7' to 11' between the bunks.

The bunks are 6" x 3" x 1/4' rectangular channel steel 66' long; the bunks sit on 2 1/2" x 1/4" inch square tube vertical supports that are bolted to the original bolsters; and the braces that tie in the bunks to the frame are 1/4" x 3" flat steel stock.  

The standards (upright posts) are 2 1/2" x 1/4" inch square tube, 4' long.  I will be rigging up a one-pull lever/cable release on the right side (facing forward) that will simultaneously pull out 1 of the draw-pins at the bottom of each standard; the other 2 pins will be removed by hand  prior to pulling the release.  I drilled out the 4 holes on the bottom of the right side standards to 1" diameter and welded in a section of 1 " pipe to act as a bushing to reduce friction and binding when the draw-pins are yanked out by the release.

The chains running from standard to standard are flipped out of the way when loading, then snugged up by binders when loaded up.  The chains remain in place when the trip lever is pulled.  So the bottom of the right-side standards will kick out when the pins are pulled.  

Patent Pending .... :D :D :D




 




 




Very nice. That should be really handy. I've got a frame like that . I think yours might be a tad heavier. I'm going to do the same thing but I ran out of steel on another project so I'm going to use some 6x6 in between and make some new brackets with some pipe for the side rails. Post some pictures of your trailer in action 👍

Crusarius

a fixed grate with appropriate sized mesh will work but could be a pain. If you do go that route and it doesn't work great you can just add a vibrator to that. It could be as simple as a 1" thick disk with an offset hole and a motor spinning it. Be just enough vibration it should work well.

Walnut Beast

Quote from: mike_belben on August 11, 2021, 12:53:06 AM
Finished up an emergencyish drainage repair for a neighbor today, bucket is excellent.  










It sidesweeps very clean and flat.  Look at the grass where the dirtpile was. That was entirely by machine, no hand labor.








There is your side business along with your brush clearing 👍

mike_belben

I did it with 2 chainlink gates at about a 45 on some sawn limbs that i literally pointed and pounded into the ground and shot some barn nails into for a frame.  Staggered the gates and lashed with fence wire.  Used it to sort fines out of 3 minus pile and it worked fine.  Conveyance to carry the junk away is all it would need to have been productive.  The box fills up and youll push fines back into the coarses when trying to get at it.  Be better to stage ontop a jersey barrier or atleast heavy timbers so you can really drive into it.   


I had to curl down and backdrag fines out of the bay and my mast would hit the frame.  


So design the frame to clear your loader coming in curled down vertical and edge a foot off the ground.   That would be a big help. The chainlink wasnt really an issue.  


Rebar grill in a frame would be fine.  Layed vertically.  Build the main frame with coarse slat spacing.  Build a second rebar grill rack that lays over the first to cut down smaller. Then lay wire mesh over both to get very fine.   Go a bit over 45 so the material rolls right off.  Too shallow a pitch and you can just crush the framework if it clogs up and you dump too fast.  Shuffle the material off the the cutting edge easy so as not to overwhelm the screen. 
Praise The Lord

mike_belben

Conduit or water pipe or smooth rod will slide better than rebar if ya got it, but the rebar is cheap.
Praise The Lord

Patrick NC

Quote from: aigheadish on August 12, 2021, 12:37:06 PM
@mike_belben that bucket does look dang handy. I'd love to design a slip on edge or bucket for my backhoe like that. Every once in a while I can swipe dirt from grass, like you did, with my big, normal bucket and boy is it satisfying to do, it'd be lovely to do it easily.

I guess this is the Fabrication thread...


I've got the need to infinite rocks and I have about 2 acres of land in which I'm not really disturbing much by digging it up, screening it, then pushing all the dirt back in the hole. I'm trying to figure out a good design for screening rocks. I've seen some examples of a pretty substantial wooden frame with chain link fence set at about 45 degrees, then a finer screen to catch smaller rocks. As usual I'm aiming to do it for a little money as possible.

I've also heard of folks that built a screen that would flip down over their loader buckets but I'm not sure if they were being used to screen rocks out or dirt out and rocks in... I think that's a bit more than I'm capable of with my current tools and supplies.

I can afford a bit of wood and fence or screen but there are certainly some engineering aspects I'm not thinking of...
We have a skeleton bucket that goes on a backhoe or small excavator that works great for sifting dirt/ separating rocks. The shop built it from an old worn out 30" backhoe bucket. Next time I'm at the shop I'll get a picture and post it. It wasn't hard to build. You just need an old donor bucket, torches, welder and some 3/4" rebar. 
Norwood HD36, Husky 372xp xtorq, 550xp mk2 , 460 rancher, Kubota l2501, Case 1845 skid steer,

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