I made a rudimentary sled for my table saw so I can clamp live edge boards and rip the live edge off. The sled keeps them going straight on the table saw. Shorter pieces, this works well. Especially when there are pieces that are too short to edge on the mill.
I've seen a sliding cross cut table that sawstop sells for their higher end saws.industrial table saw. Does anyone make a longer rip version where you can rip an 8 foot board? I was just wondering if there is such an attachment available? Granted, I can glue line rip with a track saw....
Like you I use a diy sled that runs up against the fence, I ended up using a 12" x 8' piece of MDF shelving, its very straight and stable. I added some hold downs using some hardwood and carriage bolts with wing nuts.
An improvement may be to add a cleat that would ride in the slot on the saw table and not need the fence. A further improvement would be to add some table with slot before and after the saw table. More of a DIY attachment.
Why not saw the live edge off on the mill? Follow that up with a quick trip across the jointer for the glue line straight edge.
I built one which I use on my laguna 1412 bandsaw with a resaw blade. It has a cleat that rides in the table miter slot. I use a couple of HF adjustable hold down clamps which can be positioned down the length of the sled using a series of slots. Each slot is about 12in long so they can slide in/out relative to the blade. I have used it on slabs up to 6ft long even though the sled is only 4ft. I made it out of 2 layers of 3/4 plywood but I need to remake it because it is warping. I may have to change my design on the remake. I will take a picture tomorrow and attach to thread. My business is all live edge so I quickly realized that most woodworking guides, jigs, clamps, etc are all designed to be used on wood with straight edges so I am always creating new ways to hold down pieces while I do normal woodworking processes. Part of the challenge.
One just like downstream has would be ideal. If you use MDF you wouldn't have to worry about the warping, you could even get fancy and use UHMW for the part that slides in the slot of the table so when you throw a 100 lb slab on there it doesn't take a truck to push it across the table. Or you could get real fancy and go buy one of the Euro Sliders, like you see @tule peak timber (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190) using, for $15k (just tossing out a number there ???) and solve any issues you may have with live edge ;)
Quote from: DWyatt on May 03, 2019, 06:40:16 AMOr you could get real fancy and go buy one of the Euro Sliders, like you see @tule peak timber (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=25190) using, for $15k (just tossing out a number there ???) and solve any issues you may have with live edge ;)
I've always dreamed of one of the big panel saws. Can cut vertical or horizontal. Slabs should be doable and hardly takes up any floor space, especially since the wood remains stationary.
HOLZ-HER Vertical Panel Saws - YouTube (https://youtu.be/tddI4h9MEfo)
Alan
duplicate
Here is a photo of the one I made. The two hold down clamps are in the end slot together because I was doing slab end cuts. If I want to rip cut the live edge I would move one clamp to another slot farther down the sled. It has a guide rail on the bottom that slides in the miter gage slot. Works pretty well.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41739/20190503_130817.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1556942690)
When I trim up live edge I have a 2" x 12" angle iron I attach to my table saw a I leave about 10' In front of the blade s I can rest the live edge in the track that the angle provides. Not always perfect but works for me