Picked up some White Oak logs...suggestions please

[burtle]

I built a little 8x8x8 storage shed for my lawn care equipment and other small items. I'm going to have these white oak logs milled into 1/2" boards and use them as siding. I had 3 eastern pine logs milled into 2x4's and 2x6's about 4-5 weeks ago. That's what I built the shed with. It turned out great!

Do you guys suggest using nails or screws for the boards? I'm hoping there's enough here to do the whole shed. I'm still new to all of this and learning as much as I can. We are milling the two smaller logs first. If there's enough to do the shed with those two we will quarter saw the bigger log and I'd love to make a kitchen table out of it when the boards dry of course and give it to my dad for a surprise. There's 3 other logs as well, which aren't pictured. They were only 4' long and about 18" in diameter. I could make some good table legs out of those..along with cutting boards, shelves etc..

The bad, the logs have been sitting on the ground for 1.5 years from what I was told. I imagine the first 2-3" will be garbage from rot. It was pouring down rain when we were loading them. That's why they are wet.

I'm just hoping the logs aren't full of worms.

[starmac]

I am thinking that 1/4 inch is a typo?

[burtle]

I am thinking that 1/4 inch is a typo?

Yes, I meant 1/2" for the siding.

 That's what was suggested to me anyway.

[Southside]

White oak lasts a long time, you will have some sapwood loss, but the heartwood will be fine.  *2 on the 1/4" figure, I think you would have issues with splitting that thin. 

[barbender]

Well if your going to have logs laying on the ground, you've got the right kind👍 White oak lasts forever.

[barbender]

What type of siding are you going with? Lap, board and batten? 

[burtle]

White oak lasts a long time, you will have some sapwood loss, but the heartwood will be fine.  *2 on the 1/4" figure, I think you would have issues with splitting that thin.

1/2" is what I meant to type.
Do you think it will split at 1/2" ?

[Skipper11A]

You may have to drill pilot holes for every nail or screw.  My White Oak (Post Oak) splits easily when nailed and I'm using 2x4's and 2x6's.  It even splits when you nail into the end grain.  It's a serious problem and I pre-drill as many holes that I can.

[burtle]

What type of siding are you going with? Lap, board and batten?

I'm going to run the siding horizontal and seal the seams with log builder sealant to prevent water leaking in.

The roof is metal.

[Southside]

Are you going to lap them over each other?  The oak I have seen used as siding is all from reclaimed wood, so it's old.  It's usually 3/4" to 1" thick, splitting does not seem to have been an issue.  I have no idea if they pre-drilled or not back then.  They basically used what they had, I have seen cherry, oak, even chestnut and walnut come off of old barns.  

[burtle]

Are you going to lap them over each other?  The oak I have seen used as siding is all from reclaimed wood, so it's old.  It's usually 3/4" to 1" thick, splitting does not seem to have been an issue.  I have no idea if they pre-drilled or not back then.  They basically used what they had, I have seen cherry, oak, even chestnut and walnut come off of old barns.  

No, I plan on butting the boards up to one another.

Like how they did this, (My little shed is no where near that big or fancy of course) But I'm going for the same siding concept

[burtle]

You may have to drill pilot holes for every nail or screw.  My White Oak (Post Oak) splits easily when nailed and I'm using 2x4's and 2x6's.  It even splits when you nail into the end grain.  It's a serious problem and I pre-drill as many holes that I can.

Thanks for the tip
I'll drill pilot holes to be safe.

[Southside]

How soon after milling do you want to hang the siding? I ask as you are going to experience shrinkage and greener the lumber, the more shrink, which could result in gaps. 

[ChugiakTinkerer]

Doing shiplap siding should prevent shrinkage cracks that would let in light.

[starmac]

I have no way of knowing, but suspect the building you have pictured is sided with shiplap, instead of just boards butted together. 

[burtle]

I have no way of knowing, but suspect the building you have pictured is sided with shiplap, instead of just boards butted together.

I'm going to let the wood dry, to the guy asking.
I'm going to look more into shiplap. Maybe that's the best route to go considering that's what everyone is mentioning.
Again, I'm new to all of this and learning as I go.
I appreciate the tips and advice !

[kelLOGg]

Ship lapped is a good idea, so is predrilling holes for nails. I would try to go with 3/4" if there is enough wood. 1/2" is a bit on the thin side IMO. Also, use galvanized nails. Iron in contact with the tannic acid in WO will leave black streaks at every nail head when it gets wet. Send pics of your progress.

[Quebecnewf]

I second the 3/4" if you have enough wood . Go with ship lap if you can . Do your ship lap as soon as you saw them . 
Then spend a little and get some ring shanked SS nails , drill and put it on right away.

It will shrink some and cracks will appear but the ship lap will take care of that . Will still look good the even cracks that open between each board will be part of the look.

Quebecnewf 

[curved-wood]

I prefer to use board with the same thickness than the classic clapboard which are taper; easier to dry it on sticker. You start with a small trim at the botton to give the slope so when the wall is finish with all the trimings, you could not see that is not clapboard. The nailing is better when it is not grapping the thickness of 2 rows so if the wood has to play , because it is not dry enough, the top row will hold it in place with less craking. Use nails that are long enough, highest quality of galvanized or stainless. Dont slam your hammer to sink too deep. (in fact the real type of nail is a round head that is just driven in so that it's shoulder does his job ) Dont forget that it will increase the thickness of the casing around openings. I use the same nailing technique for vertical board and batten

[Magicman]

If you simply butt them together without ship lap, you would have no means for water runoff.  

[burtle]

I prefer to use board with the same thickness than the classic clapboard which are taper; easier to dry it on sticker. You start with a small trim at the botton to give the slope so when the wall is finish with all the trimings, you could not see that is not clapboard. The nailing is better when it is not grapping the thickness of 2 rows so if the wood has to play , because it is not dry enough, the top row will hold it in place with less craking. Use nails that are long enough, highest quality of galvanized or stainless. Dont slam your hammer to sink too deep. (in fact the real type of nail is a round head that is just driven in so that it's shoulder does his job ) Dont forget that it will increase the thickness of the casing around openings. I use the same nailing technique for vertical board and batten

This is exactly what I'm going with!
After a lot of thought and consideration. I'll be doing the tapered route like in the picture.
I appreciate the advice!

[burtle]

If you simply butt them together without ship lap, you would have no means for water runoff.  

Thanks to all of you I've learning a lot!
I'm going to go the tapered route!
I appreciate all the advice from everyone
I'll post pictures as I progress
We are milling the logs saturday morning