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Author Topic: Introduction and sawmill build  (Read 1688 times)

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Offline Rybot

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #20 on: April 05, 2021, 11:17:52 PM »
Thanks. I think I will do full enclosure.


(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
 I built mine from sheet metal off the sides of an old cook stove and dryer.
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
 


Your engine looks like the HF 420 CC Predator engine? if so what are your thoughts? enough horsepower? That is the engine I am planning on.

Offline Iwawoodwork

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #21 on: April 06, 2021, 12:36:03 AM »
On my mighty mite mill the guards are all metal and as a newbie at sawing I have ruined several blades when I inadvertently jerked the saw backward and the blade came off hitting the guards.  After 3-4 of those (slow learner) I lined the guards with rubber belting which has saved me blades several times, however the belting is not very durable but it was free.  I am now thinking plywood with UHMV  lining would be preferable and save some blades $$$$$ during the learning process.

Offline JoshNZ

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #22 on: April 06, 2021, 04:06:27 AM »
I made mine out of aluminium sheet and have had blade come off twice, no damage either times maybe a tooth missing but maybe it was already, I haven't thrown any out since I got the mill running yet!

Offline ktm250rider

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #23 on: April 06, 2021, 07:54:28 AM »
I built mine with spare metal plate and plywood covers before I even ran the saw.  It was probably one of the first things finished.  I did do a test run without them and the blade came off at full speed.  If it didn't hit a stack of firewood I had, I think it would still be rolling.  Definitely something you want contained.

Offline Rybot

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #24 on: April 06, 2021, 08:15:39 AM »
Making some design progress. Haven't started on the guard yet but I think I have the bandwheel beam complete. I decided to go with 6x2x.188 rect. tubing since several other components will be made of the same and I will likely have plenty left over to do the beam.


 

I still have to figure out engine mounting. I really want to mount the engine similar to the woodmizer lx 25 where the drive belt goes between the blade and the bandwheel (belt pulley). Thoughts?

Offline trimguy

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #25 on: April 06, 2021, 12:43:25 PM »
Yes that is the 420 CC predator engine. Im happy with it. Never had any problems. Hp wise, I would have to slow down some in wide cuts. It was manual so you could feel as you were pushing it. Ive since upgraded to an Lt40 with a 26 hp and still had times I wished it was larger. Bigger is better. Good luck.

Online Crusarius

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #26 on: April 06, 2021, 05:01:51 PM »
Rybot, that looks nice do your best to balance the head. put your drive pulley where the engine balances the weight so the head does not have any bind. I am very curious to know how the linear bearings are goig to hold up. I was going to use them but after using them for my router sled in my shop the bearings started getting packed with sawdust. Not sure how long term they will work in that application.

I had the 20mm round ones. They do not have the best seal on them. The rectangles should work much better.

Offline Rybot

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #27 on: April 06, 2021, 08:12:08 PM »
I will keep you posted how they work. Like I mentioned in a previous post, Matt Cremona uses them and doesn't seem to have any issues. They are supposed to handle torsional loads very well according to the literature I have read. I am using two carriages on each side to better handle the torsion of any imbalance.

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #28 on: April 06, 2021, 08:30:05 PM »
yes. they definitely do all of that. Ebay has good deals on them. but unfortunately they are chinese. But then again even the name brand ones are chinese.

Only reason I have not ordered a set of square ones is because my CNC project got put on hold. But I can see that getting resurrected this summer. Unless I build sawmill v25 instead :)

Offline JoshNZ

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #29 on: April 06, 2021, 11:26:39 PM »
Fwiw crusarius I used them on my vertical lift, and only one on each side, not even a pair, and they're going great. I'd use a pair each side next time though. Cheap bugger I was.

I got them from a friend who has a business producing plasma cutters and he uses them on his machines. He had one of his earlier models in a shop next door and does a bit of profile cutting, he said it hadn't been greased for 10 years just sent back and forth in the crap, no trouble with them.

I reckon they're a solid choice.

Offline Rybot

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #30 on: April 13, 2021, 01:00:33 PM »
Well...I didn't like how the design was going so I decided to start over. I broke one of the first rules of design...that is, start with a design intent. 

In my last design I kept changing my mind on things as I was designing things and it made the design process very difficult. 

Now that I have a clear design intent things are moving along much more smoothly.

Design intent:
  • Must cut wood (my 3 yo. son's input)
  • Trailer mounted
  • Bed frame made from rect. tubing
  • Bed rails of angle iron
  • Bed length 16' w/ option to add extensions later
  • 48" max log
  • Linear rails for saw head vertical travel and blade guide travel
  • Sawhead built exclusively (or as close as possible) from laser cut flat stock
  • Pushbutton electric throttle control and water/coolant control
  • All manual (for now)
  • Raised "blade bunks" (kind of like the woodmizer lx 150 so sawdust doesn't build up) for fork access


Online Crusarius

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #31 on: April 13, 2021, 03:11:19 PM »
make the tongue removable. you will not regret it. also make sure you can easily square the backstops to the bed. that is my biggest hate of my mill.

It is also nice to have all the backstops connected together to go up and down the same time. Make the first one taller than the rest that way if the blade clears 1 it will clear them all. Or put a blade stop on it so you cannot cut the backstop.


Offline Rybot

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #32 on: April 13, 2021, 03:38:47 PM »
For this go round I am just doing all manual independent backstops. I will definitely have a blade guard to prevent cutting metal :)

Offline thecfarm

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #33 on: April 14, 2021, 07:34:48 AM »
Looks like your log stops go straight up and down?, like mine.
I put marks on mine, at 4-6-8 inches. 4 inches is really 3 inches. So when I set the log stop at 4 inches, I know I have a  inch to spare. Really helps out cutting flitches.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline Rybot

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #34 on: May 04, 2021, 09:01:50 AM »
Ok...still working on the redesign. Getting close. One question I have been thinking about is why do you never see chain driven bandsaws? Chains work for motorcycles and other high speed applications. Just curious.

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #35 on: May 04, 2021, 05:07:35 PM »
Pretty sure chains have more rolling resistance than belts. takes more power to turn one vs belt. plus, belts slip when the blade jams.


Offline Rybot

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #36 on: July 12, 2021, 01:09:04 AM »
OK. It's been a while. Between taking my sweet time on redesigning the mill and saving money to start building here we are...


 


Offline fluidpowerpro

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #37 on: July 14, 2021, 06:12:54 PM »
Above you ask for feedback regarding the drive belt placement.
I own 2 mills. One smaller, Hud-Son Oscar 18 and a larger, Hud-Son HFE-36. The 18 has the drive belt in between the blade and band wheel and the larger has a separate pulley for the drive belt.

I really like the design of my larger saw that has a separate pulley for the drive belt.

Here is why I dislike the design with the belt in between the blade and band wheel.

1. Assuming you have bearings on each side of the band wheel, this means you cant change the drive belt without loosening one bearing and unbolting the other. This is because the drive belt is inside the bearings. Because you now fooled with the bearings, you need to make sure you realign the band wheels every time you change a belt.

2. I find that if I run too much lube on my small saw, the blade will slip on the belt. (not a big deal, I just make sure not to run too wet)

3. I find that my small saw cuts "dirtier" and leaves more stains on the wood. My theory as to why this happens is that with the blade and drive belt coming into direct contact with each other, sawdust+lube+rubber wearing from the belt, produces dirt. The blade then carries the dirt into the wood. The staining is not bad if the saw head is in motion, but if you stop for any period of time, your going to get a stain because the blade isnt moving.

4. My experience has been that when you snap a blade, and you will, often some of the teeth end up coming in contact with the drive belt because they are so close. This will put a nice slice in the belt greatly shortening its life.

Since the cost to make the mill wider is actually not very significant I am leaning towards 48" max log.

Wider is better because if a saw is designed to cut XX" max, and you actually put the max size on it, you will struggle. 
Logs are rarely straight.
On the other hand, 48" sounds kind of extreme to me especially without a log loader. 
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full falls off the top shelf and hits the top of your head!

Offline welderskelter

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #38 on: July 14, 2021, 06:58:56 PM »
rybot, mine has a chain drive on the drive wheels. I have a belt coming off engine to the clutch and brake then a chain for the final speed reduction. I am sure coming of the engine would be to fast for chain. I do think a chain has less power loss than a belt though. I will have to look that one up though.

Offline welderskelter

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Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #39 on: July 14, 2021, 07:07:51 PM »
How close are the bunks on you mill? I had mine 4 feet apart till I found out some ends hang down and boards do warp while sawing. I believe you will be putting one in between each of them. Also makes it nice to cut less than four foot logs.


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