The Forestry Forum is sponsored in part by:

iDRY Vacuum Kilns


Forestry Forum
Sponsored by:


TimberKing Sawmills



Toll Free 1-800-582-0470

LogRite Tools



Norwood Industries Inc.




Your source for Portable Sawmills, Edgers, Resaws, Sharpeners, Setters, Bandsaw Blades and Sawmill Parts

EZ Boardwalk Sawmills. More Saw For Less Money!

STIHLDealers.com sponsored by Northeast STIHL


Woodland Sawmills

Peterson Swingmills

 KASCO SharpTech WoodMaxx Blades

Turbosawmill

Sawmill Exchange

Michigan Firewood, your BRUTE FORCE Authorized Dealer

Baker Products

ECHO-Bearcat

iDRY Wood Lumber Vacuum Drying for everyon

Nyle Kiln Dry Systems

Chainsawr, The Worlds Largest Inventory of Chainsaw Parts

Smith Sawmill Service



Author Topic: Introduction and sawmill build  (Read 1694 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Rybot

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 25
  • Age: 31
  • Location: Northeastern Utah
  • Gender: Male
  • Not a sawyer yet....
    • Share Post
Introduction and sawmill build
« on: April 02, 2021, 10:51:42 AM »
Good morning everyone,

I just joined the forum after lurking as a guest for a while and enjoying the great info on here. I have been interested in sawmilling for many years and it seems my interest is coming to a head. After much thought and flip-flopping back and forth I have decided to build my own bandsaw-mill. I was originally leaning towards a woodmizer lx 25 (mostly because of cost) but considering my day job as a welding instructor and love of building things I figured I should just build my own. Besides, I will (read should) be able to get more saw for the money. I will attach a cad image of what I have now and keep you updated as the build progresses.

Again, thanks for all the great content.

Offline JRWoodchuck

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 268
  • Age: 35
  • Location: Baker City, Oregon
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #1 on: April 02, 2021, 04:31:52 PM »
I would add a log stop for short logs and make sure the beam you use to support your band wheels is stout you don’t want any flex there if your using a single member.  
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Offline Rybot

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 25
  • Age: 31
  • Location: Northeastern Utah
  • Gender: Male
  • Not a sawyer yet....
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #2 on: April 02, 2021, 11:06:32 PM »
Thanks. My intent is to get the basic design built and in use and I can add additional log stops/clamps easily later on. While this is only a two post mill and has a single member supporting the bandwheels it should all be quite stout. the beam to which the bandwheels are mounted is 3x3x3/16 square tubing. I am loosely basing my design off of Mathew Cremona's bandsaw (if you are familiar with his youtube channel. If not, you should look him up.)

Offline thecfarm

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 31500
  • Age: 59
  • Location: Chesterville,Maine
  • Gender: Male
  • If I don't do it,it don't get done
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2021, 05:43:51 AM »
Make it long!! I have a mill that can get 20 foot logs. I cut a 16 foot log and I have 4 feet of room to spare, not inches. The extra room gets the head out of the way too. 
Make a place to cut short logs, even 3 feet log. Use that place a few times, and you will be glad you did.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline JRWoodchuck

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 268
  • Age: 35
  • Location: Baker City, Oregon
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2021, 11:09:44 AM »
My mill has four posts but essentially only uses 2. I think 3x3 3/16s should do the trick. Make the sliders that sleeve over your vertical posts a bit longer to help it not want to bind while going up and down. I think I made mine 6” originally then had to go back and made them 12”ish. How wide are you going. The wider you go the more stout it needs to be. I’ve watched a few of Matt’s videos pretty nice saw he’s built.  Another thing I would suggest is building your width around blade lengths that are readily available so you don’t have to have any custom made. Mine are 158” which gives me about 32” between the guides. I run 19” band wheels from surplus center. I like wood mizer blades the best so far between cooks, kasko, and wm. Cooks makes great blade guides that can be added to any mill. In my opinion they are a must. 
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Offline Rybot

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 25
  • Age: 31
  • Location: Northeastern Utah
  • Gender: Male
  • Not a sawyer yet....
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2021, 12:56:58 PM »
Make it long!! I have a mill that can get 20 foot logs. I cut a 16 foot log and I have 4 feet of room to spare, not inches. The extra room gets the head out of the way too.
Make a place to cut short logs, even 3 feet log. Use that place a few times, and you will be glad you did.
I have been going back and forth on size but I am thinking I will likely make the bed 20 ft. since that is standard length for steel anyways. And yes, I will make sure there is a place to cut small stuff.
My mill has four posts but essentially only uses 2. I think 3x3 3/16s should do the trick. Make the sliders that sleeve over your vertical posts a bit longer to help it not want to bind while going up and down. I think I made mine 6” originally then had to go back and made them 12”ish. How wide are you going. The wider you go the more stout it needs to be. I’ve watched a few of Matt’s videos pretty nice saw he’s built.  Another thing I would suggest is building your width around blade lengths that are readily available so you don’t have to have any custom made. Mine are 158” which gives me about 32” between the guides. I run 19” band wheels from surplus center. I like wood mizer blades the best so far between cooks, kasko, and wm. Cooks makes great blade guides that can be added to any mill. In my opinion they are a must.
If you look closely at the design (I will post some more pictures) you will notice I am using linear rails for the saw head so there should be no issue with binding. 
I have intended all along to go with a standard blade size but am still trying to decide exactly how wide. Since the cost to make the mill wider is actually not very significant I am leaning towards 48" max log.



Offline TroyC

  • Full Member x2
  • ***
  • Posts: 121
  • Location: Central Georgia
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2021, 01:23:11 PM »
Welcome to a great place!
20' bed rails will not cut a 20' log. Maybe 16. Your blade does not start at the beginning of the 20' bed rail.
Good luck on the build. What size engine?

Offline TroyC

  • Full Member x2
  • ***
  • Posts: 121
  • Location: Central Georgia
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #7 on: April 03, 2021, 01:24:56 PM »
A 48" log is a monster! Got loading equipment?

Offline SawyerTed

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 1861
  • Age: 58
  • Location: Germanton, NC
  • Gender: Male
  • Summey Lumber Services, LLC
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #8 on: April 03, 2021, 01:34:19 PM »
A walnut or white oak 48” log 8’ long is going to weigh in the 5,800 to 6,000 pound range.  Even a poplar that size will be 4,000ish.  Better have a stout bed on the mill and something big to move logs like that!
Woodmizer LT35HD25, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher, Ram 3500 6.7 Cummins

Offline Crusarius

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 3616
  • Age: 44
  • Location: Canadice, New York
  • Gender: Male
  • Lost in....
    • Share Post
    • RockModified.com
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #9 on: April 03, 2021, 02:02:28 PM »
I don't know where your located but around here box tubing comes in 24' standard length where angle and solid come in 20' standards.

I made my bed 24' long because that is what the 2x6x.188 came standard for length.

I like your saddle detail for the bearings, the only thing that would concern me there is being so close together alignment is going to be very touchy. a 1/4 turn on a screw will be the difference between on the wheels and off.

When I originally built my mill I set it up for a 158 blade. gave me 31" between the guides. later I decided I wanted to cut wider so I added an extension to the sawframe and an extension for my tensioning ram. now my sawmill is setup to run 158 or 176" blade. works pretty slick. very easy changeover with no realignment. 

make sure you have some type of physical stop on the sliding part of the sawframe. Otherwise when a blade lets go your going to be searching for the wheel and whatever else goes with it :)

Offline Rybot

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 25
  • Age: 31
  • Location: Northeastern Utah
  • Gender: Male
  • Not a sawyer yet....
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #10 on: April 04, 2021, 01:49:15 PM »
A 48" log is a monster! Got loading equipment?

It is... and nope. If I ever cut a log that big it will likely be only a couple times and I do have friends with equipment to borrow. My thoughts are just that if I am building a mill myself not only is the cost of going wider (for that once in a lifetime log) minimal but it will also make my mill more stable since it will be in a trailer configuration for portability.

make sure you have some type of physical stop on the sliding part of the sawframe. Otherwise when a blade lets go your going to be searching for the wheel and whatever else goes with it :)

This is something that never occurred to me.....Good advice.

Offline RAYAR

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 348
  • Age: 66
  • Location: New Brunswick (SE), Canada
  • Gender: Male
  • Retired May 2/19 more time to play with my mill
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #11 on: April 04, 2021, 02:30:09 PM »
While this is only a two post mill and has a single member supporting the bandwheels it should all be quite stout. the beam to which the bandwheels are mounted is 3x3x3/16 square tubing.
This size square tubing is way too light for your band wheel beam. For a mill the size you're building, I wouldn't use anything smaller than 4"X4"X1/4" and would more likely go with 6"X6"X1/4" or 4"X6"X1/4". The tension needed for the blade puts a lot of stress on this beam and it doesn't take much to cause blade tracking problems. This would be the most important part of getting it right the first time.
mobile manual mill (local build) (mods & additions on-going)
Shop built auto band sharpener
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans

Offline Crusarius

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 3616
  • Age: 44
  • Location: Canadice, New York
  • Gender: Male
  • Lost in....
    • Share Post
    • RockModified.com
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #12 on: April 04, 2021, 07:47:22 PM »
if you want to use a single member for the sawframe I would lean more towards a 2x6x.188. The single 2" is going to bow when the band is tensioned and as Rayar pointed out depending on band tension will change your tracking.

I ended up with 2 2x2x.188 wall and it works great cause I ended up with 2 2.5x2.5x.188 pieces that slide on those connected together and the tensioner is in between the beams. This allows me to push straight on the sliding part and not side load it causing the frame to want to bend more. 

not the best picture but the quickest one to find.








Check out my gallery for more details.

Offline ktm250rider

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 73
  • Location: canterbury NH
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #13 on: April 05, 2021, 07:51:24 AM »
My advice is to build your back stops so that they are all connected and can be manipulated from the side of the mill without having to step over the rails.  All 3 of mine started out with a lock nut and each one had to be raised and lowered.  It doesn't sound like much but it is very tiring stepping over the rails every time. 

Offline Rybot

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 25
  • Age: 31
  • Location: Northeastern Utah
  • Gender: Male
  • Not a sawyer yet....
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #14 on: April 05, 2021, 04:13:09 PM »
Thanks everyone for the great advice. I may have a source for some 5x5x.25 square tubing which I will likely use if I can get it. 

A question....What are your thoughts on blade guards? I definitely don't want it to be wide open like some of the DIYs I see online but Fully enclosed like the commercial models is a lot more works and expense. Some of the saws I have seen (when they use tires for bandwheels) just use trailer fenders or the like to cover most of the blade so it doesn't flip all over when it breaks.....Thoughts?

Offline JRWoodchuck

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 268
  • Age: 35
  • Location: Baker City, Oregon
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #15 on: April 05, 2021, 04:59:23 PM »
I built mine out of plywood for the faces and 1/16” steel plate for the top it’s fully enclosed and I like it. Broken blades do funny things 
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

Offline Brob1969

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 87
  • Age: 2017
  • Location: N Central Florida
  • Gender: Male
  • New Sawyer
    • Share Post
Blade guards
« Reply #16 on: April 05, 2021, 05:50:38 PM »
Definitely cover those band-wheels!  Without, you have no way of knowing where that really sharp blade is heading if it breaks! 
1990 Woodmizer LT40, 18 HP Briggs Twin II
1980 Ford 555 backhoe
1996 John Deere 4475 Skid-Steer

Offline Crusarius

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 3616
  • Age: 44
  • Location: Canadice, New York
  • Gender: Male
  • Lost in....
    • Share Post
    • RockModified.com
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #17 on: April 05, 2021, 05:55:06 PM »
I have 2 16 gauge stainless covers over the wheels and the top is a piece of 5" angle. The outlet side the guard stops just above the blade and has a rubber flap to redirect debris. the other side goes around until it hits the bed at the lowest setting. that is the operator side.

I test drove it without guards. that was scary. I like guards

another piece of advice I can give. where I work they use 1.25" steel banding. I had them cut and make me a loop 158" long and 176" long. I used those loops for mockup and alignment. The banding does not bite nearly as bad as a fresh new blade!

Offline Rybot

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 25
  • Age: 31
  • Location: Northeastern Utah
  • Gender: Male
  • Not a sawyer yet....
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #18 on: April 05, 2021, 06:00:09 PM »
That's about what I expected to hear. Everyone mind posting pictures of your guard setup?

Offline trimguy

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 461
  • Age: 51
  • Location: augusta ,GA
  • Gender: Male
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: Introduction and sawmill build
« Reply #19 on: April 05, 2021, 10:32:04 PM »
 

 I built mine from sheet metal off the sides of an old cook stove and dryer.

 


Share via delicious Share via digg Share via facebook Share via linkedin Share via pinterest Share via reddit Share via stumble Share via tumblr Share via twitter

xx
introduction and pics of my slabber build

Started by DaveM on Sawmills and Milling

16 Replies
1303 Views
Last post April 26, 2017, 12:46:03 PM
by DaveM
xx
Sawmill build

Started by joegeds on Sawmills and Milling

2 Replies
1021 Views
Last post February 18, 2016, 10:34:33 AM
by york
xx
New Guy with my Sawmill Build

Started by Jimmysmill13 on Sawmills and Milling

101 Replies
56987 Views
Last post November 14, 2018, 09:03:01 PM
by charles mann
xx
First sawmill build

Started by BraschBrothers on Sawmills and Milling

21 Replies
2598 Views
Last post January 29, 2017, 01:14:15 PM
by Joe Hillmann
 


Powered by EzPortal