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Author Topic: First sawmill build  (Read 2598 times)

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Offline Rougespear

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Re: First sawmill build
« Reply #20 on: January 29, 2017, 11:39:37 AM »
I used 1-5" ACME thread with pillow block bearings on top and I custom-made a nylon housing to accept standard NAPA thrust bearings at the bottom (I think BR2's).  I will probably never change the bottom bearings... they were way overkill, and are grease-able and all.  For the nuts, I custom made some Delrin nuts about 2" long - I see very little wear on them after 25mbf of cutting, but they do require a lube of some kind.  I use ATF, and am reminded I need to lube them when I hear the hyd pump engine groaning a little more when I ask it to raise the head.  Bronze nuts are best I think, and given the amount of time I put into making a 1" ACME tap would have used bronze... that being said, I am 100% happy with the performance of the Delrin nuts.

Nice looking fab work!  A constructive observation: may I recommend you test to make sure the electric actuator can adequately tension a blade before settling on that design.  I only suggest this because many designs use a hyd cylinder in the same place and generate upwards of 2000 PSI for proper tension.  Just a thought.
Custom built Cook's-style hydraulic bandmill.

Online Joe Hillmann

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Re: First sawmill build
« Reply #21 on: January 29, 2017, 01:14:15 PM »
ok, i read the article and checked out the sfpm calculator, does it make sense to anyone else to do my sfpm calculations based off 2500 rpm so im not maxing out my engine all the time to achieve 4500 sfpm?

I would use 3200 rpm in your calculations.  Even though the engine is probably rated for 3600 rpm.  Several years ago there was a class action law suit because small engine manufactures were falsely claiming higher power than what the engine would ever be capable of producing in real life  (I think one of the tricks they used was to feed oxygen into the carburetor to get it up to the rated 3600 rpm)   

With that said small engines are designed to to run at full speed  so I wouldn't try and reduce it below what it normally is.  The best way to find out what rpm it will actually be running at would be to get a tachometer for it and find out.

 When I built my mill I aimed for 5500 sfpm but ended up closer to 5000 and it drops more if I push through the log to fast.

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