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Author Topic: Pontoon Re-build  (Read 2440 times)

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Offline DDW_OR

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Pontoon Re-build
« on: September 04, 2017, 06:58:37 PM »
I have a pontoon with a 8x16 deck. the deck is rotten and i am planning on a total strip-down and re-build.

 this is how the pontoon looked when i lived in AZ

 

plan to change the layout


 
i will use a grid to explain where things are.
example, 6-3 is a removable table in green
Motor on left
small white circles are swivel seats, 2-1, 2-7, 4-7, 14-2, 14-6
small green circles are for shade umbrellas
red rectangles are bench seats
simple kitchen is at 7-7
captains council is on bottom edge
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Offline DPatton

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2017, 08:41:30 PM »
What are you going to build the new deck out of?
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Offline DDW_OR

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2017, 09:20:22 PM »
Was thinking of using some of the cedar trees i have, then use fiberglass to seal it like i have seen done for canoes.
but then i thought how slippery it would be when wet.
have read where some people add playground sand to the final coat.
 :P

would like to have an aluminum deck, with hardwood used for the cabinets and other stuff.
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Offline Briankinley2004

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2017, 10:26:18 PM »
I used to help moderate a pontoon restoration forum. It was pontoonstuff.com. Its been many years and I haven't logged on in several. The head moderator died recently. The question of decking came up very often. Weight and rot is an issue especially if you're going to use your own lumber. Pontoons get a lot of splash under the bottom which can cause rot. The new non CCA treated plywood can corrode the aluminum framing. You can still get the CCA marine plywood but its high dollar. If money is not a problem I would recommend the COOSA board or something similar as a sub deck and a thinner layer of your favorite wood on top. I would seal it with penetrating epoxy or epiphanies spar varnish and plan on replacing unless you have access to teak, heart cypress or some other wood that will not rot. I just re read where you have access to cedar and that should work fine as long as its heart. Its good and light and you should be able to use it direct on the aluminum but I would still seal with cpes on topside.  I don't think it would be real slippery. Even table top epoxy doesn't seem real slippery to me on a table but I haven't done much table dancing  :D :D :D

Offline DDW_OR

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2017, 11:55:14 PM »
THANK YOU!!

i know what needs to be done, but did not know what to do it with.

Money is an issue, but i prefer to do this once.
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Offline DDW_OR

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2017, 03:21:31 PM »
the umbrellas are the pole type used on patios
the pontoon is going to be used by my dad and me. he is 85 and I want to keep him shaded and cool

the pontoon has been put on hold for now. other projects have higher prioritys;
3000 feet of fence
3 lean-toos to add to the pole barn
chicken coop
Firewood
greenhouse = two harbor freight 10x12 placed end to end, with all mods and re-enforcement
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=97497.msg1504967;topicseen#top
etc,etc,etc,etc,etc,
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Offline DanG

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2017, 10:59:16 AM »
Since you're in Oregon, why not use redwood for your deck?  I would cover it with indoor-outdoor carpet for non-slip protection. Also, you will need some sort of membrane under it or water will spew up between the planks when underway.  If it was mine however, I would just use the non-cca plywood and put strips of rubber between it and the frame to avoid corrosion.
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Offline Briankinley2004

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2017, 09:43:29 PM »
Underskinning with metal is popular for protecting the bottom. Popular belief is to not paint or seal the bottom of the plywood as it will not allow water that gets in from the top out

Offline DDW_OR

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #8 on: October 30, 2017, 06:58:45 PM »
it does have a metal belly

 
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Offline DDW_OR

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #9 on: December 06, 2019, 02:17:54 PM »
changing the layout
adding a bathroom/changing room
the round circles are for removable chairs



 
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Offline Tom King

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #10 on: December 09, 2019, 07:10:14 PM »
MANY pontoon boats on the lake here.  I've never seen anyone use anything but treated plywood to redo a pontoon deck with.

Offline DDW_OR

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #11 on: December 11, 2019, 12:24:05 PM »
MANY pontoon boats on the lake here.  I've never seen anyone use anything but treated plywood to redo a pontoon deck with.
i assume you are referring to Pressure treated
or Marine grade
or standard exterior, roof sheeting
if Pressure treated then a barrier needs to be between the aluminum and the Pressure treated
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Offline DDW_OR

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Re: Pontoon Re-build - Engine size
« Reply #12 on: July 23, 2021, 08:18:28 PM »
for the 8x16 pontoon i think 60 HP is enough. now has 115 HP

should i do one 60
or two 30 HP, then troll with just one 30 HP?
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Offline sawguy21

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #13 on: July 23, 2021, 09:03:09 PM »
And if one acts up you still have a ride home. I prefer one engine for simplicity and reliability but to each their own.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #14 on: July 23, 2021, 09:26:37 PM »
I'd stick to one big main engine and something like a 5 to 10 hp for trolling.  A nice, quiet, 4-stroke Honda.  The little motor can still get you home if the big one has issues.
John Sawicky

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SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/32" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Offline DDW_OR

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Re: Pontoon Re-build
« Reply #15 on: July 24, 2021, 01:27:17 PM »
I have tried to troll with a 5 HP. it almost moved the pontoon.
but with the 115 HP anchor, and no way to lift it....

the pontoon re-build will happen in about 2 years.
Higher prioritys
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