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Alternative to anchorseal?

Started by WLC, February 22, 2016, 05:07:01 PM

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WLC

I need to come up with an alternative to anchorseal.  Commercially available or home made.  No one here in AK carries it.  Closest dealer is in BC Canada or Washington state.  I called the company today to see if I could order mfg direct and they said yes.  Sent me to someone else to do the order and the nice young lady said hold up a minute and let me check shipping before we proceed.  Yep, you guessed it.  Shipping costs as much as the product.  I can't pay almost $200 for a five gallon pail.  Shipping would be similar if ordered from WA state as well.  Not too sure I could get it from BC and I imagine shipping etc to be as much.

What are some alternatives?  If commercial it needs to be able to be sourced at Home Depot or Lowes. 

Anyone have a suitable home made concoction?

Woodmizer LT28
Branson 4wd tractor
Stihl chainsaws
Elbow grease.

beenthere

What is it that you will be end coating? 

Anchorseal isn't something that must be used... it will stop some end-checking on logs and lumber, but that loss to end checks must be weighed against the cost of end sealing. IMO
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

landscraper

I use W.R. Meadows 1300 Clear as an alternative to Anchorseal.  It is a wax emulsion that looks and acts the same as Anchorseal IMO.   Anchorseal costs $87 a bucket I think, Meadows 1300 is $32 to $35 (in the lower 48), and it is usually in stock at my local construction supply house, so no shipping.  It is a concrete sealer or curing compound.  Valley Block and Concrete in Wasilla mentions on their website that they sell concrete sealer.  If it is a stock item with them you could try using that.  If they don't have 1300 clear you could use 1600 series too, it is just 1300 with titanium dioxide tinting added, so it dries white instead of clear, it is $40 a bucket I think.  Same wax emulsion otherwise.  Neither 1300 or 1600 should be allowed to freeze according to the labeling.  Don't use any of the other Meadows sealers, they are acrylics or resins, not waxes and will not act the same.  Other manufactures make wax emulsion sealers too.
Firewood is energy independence on a personal scale.

bkaimwood

May sound silly, but did u price a drum, shipped? I don't know how much you could use, but think I might go for the drum next order...I could be wrong, and maybe the next size up is the big ag. sized cube...
bk

Jeff

In my milling career I sawed millions and millions of feet of lumber. Not one single board or one single log was end coated.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Lumber for farm use never gets sealed.
The only ends I seal are my table and bench slabs that will be air drying for a couple of years.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

bkaimwood

Interesting... I never used to end coat anything, half because of disorganization, the other half because of lack of knowledge... Since I tightened the reigns, and started applying anchorseal to everything, I can notice a significant difference in the minimalisation of end checks and even drying...
bk

landscraper

My logs and lumber sit around a little longer then a production mill  :D, so if I have some decent hardwood that I have plans for I will end seal it so I don't lose the investment of my time.  All my turning blanks get sealed too, no fun turning cracked wood.  And at $32 for 5 gallons, it's not exactly a deal breaker.  5 gallons last me a year.  I don't worry about pine or fence boards or lowboy decking etc., just the better stuff that I am drying.   

I bet the wood from the big mills gets on a tractor trailer and off to the furniture plant or whatever before the wood can even start drying.

I used to grind bark for a hardwood mill and I would watch them spray Anchorseal out of 55 gallon drums on all the lumber that came off the line close to the bark pile where I worked.  They also had water sprayers set up on all their log piles in the summertime.
Firewood is energy independence on a personal scale.

Ox

A cheap and easy alternative to Anchorseal is any kind of roof coating thinned down enough with kerosene or diesel so you can more easily brush it on.  Asphalt based anything will work fine.  Whether it's the aluminized stuff or blackjack, it'll all work fine.  Actually, the aluminum mobile home roof coating is thin enough to paint on as-is in the bucket after some rugged stirring.  Any kind of old, unwanted paint will work.  Melted wax will work.  The idea is to slow down the evaporation out from the ends of the wood.  Heck, I bet you could even slather on some lard and it'll work!

I rarely endcoat my boards or logs.  Only thing I've coated recently was some large black cherry slabs I'll be using for counter tops eventually.  I used some over 10 year old Walmart spray paint.  No checks in 9 months or so and cherry likes to crack.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Magicman

The ERC logs that I sawed Saturday had been painted with what looked to be latex house paint.  Completely unnecessary, especially with ERC.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

fishfighter

I had painted some of the first oak boards I sawed with some old varnish. Last time I checked the pile of lumber, there was no end checking at all on the ends.

Kbeitz

Goto Lowes, Home depot, Sears, Walmart or what ever and buy the latex paint returns. (wrong colors or whatever)
They are very glad to get rid of it. Most of the time they will give it to you.
Most of the time they need to pay for disposel.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Larry

We had a large flooring mill.  They probably had 5 acres covered with stacks of stickered oak 10 foot tall.  Not a single board had end sealer on it.

I sometimes use Anchorseal on special logs but most get no attention.  An alternative is to cut your logs a little extra long.  When your ready to saw cut off the extra.  Put the lumber on sticks with a small overhang on the ends.  That end stick will stop most checks.  When later processing I usually waste a bit off the end of each board just to insure I don't have a snipe from the jointer/planer.

I have used a coating called Silver Dollar.  Its a fibered aluminum roof coating paint for mobile homes.    Something similar should be available in your location.  Don't use Black Jack or roofing tar....the blade drags the tar through the cut.  What a mess.  Try the Silver Dollar on a test log first, as it has been years since I used it.

I don't think paint does much good.  Just not thick enough.  In fact when I do use Anchorseal I'll put on two coats.

A neighbor walnut mill heats a 55 gallon drum with paraffin in the bottom quarter.  All there gunstock blanks are dipped immediately after sawing.  I use something similar for lathe turning blocks.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

sawwood

We have used drive way sealer we get at Lowes. It was $15.00 for a 5 gal bucket and you need to mix it
up each time. Also keep it from freezing.

Sawwood 
Norwood M4 manual mill, Solar Kiln, Woodmaster
18" planer/molder

Ox

I'm lovin' all these cheap ideas from real world experience.  "Country boys can survive" and all that.  It's a beautiful thing.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Kbeitz on February 22, 2016, 08:46:33 PM
Goto Lowes, Home depot, Sears, Walmart or what ever and buy the latex paint returns. (wrong colors or whatever)
They are very glad to get rid of it. Most of the time they will give it to you.
Most of the time they need to pay for disposel.
Not out here!  I used to buy mis-mix light colors to paint my workshop to brighten it up.  I could get gallons for $1.00 and 5 gallon tubs for $4.00.  Now that paint is $20+ per gallon new, they charge $5.00/gal mis-mixed! :o
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Magicman

It's also $5.00 here.


 
I use the mis-matched red for property lines.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Kbeitz

Ny last batch cost me $20.00 for 15 gal and a bunch of little cans extra for free.
I also get free paint from the auto paint shops. But I dont think that would work good for sealing wood.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

dutchman

When I worked at a circle mill they would use boiled linseed oil with
parafin melted into it.
Used a paint can 3/4 full (linseed)  add 1 piece of wax heat till melted.
Once mixed it will stay for weeks.
Only used on high grade logs.

WLC

Thanks for the replies and suggestions.  Guess I'll go to Home depot and raid the mistint section for a gallon or two.  Our birch are real bad about end checking and thought I'd try anchorseal to slow that down along with sealing a few of my bowl blanks destined for the lathe.
Woodmizer LT28
Branson 4wd tractor
Stihl chainsaws
Elbow grease.

Kbeitz

Quote from: WLC on February 23, 2016, 08:38:56 PM
Thanks for the replies and suggestions.  Guess I'll go to Home depot and raid the mistint section for a gallon or two.  Our birch are real bad about end checking and thought I'd try anchorseal to slow that down along with sealing a few of my bowl blanks destined for the lathe.

Try to look for one coat paint. It's thicker and works better. Other stuff might need two coats.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ox

I wish I could afford to buy more boiled linseed oil than I have on hand.  It's so expensive nowadays.  It's so useful for so many different things.  My last project was making old fashioned oil cloth tarps from canvas drop cloths.  Thin the oil with paint thinner and spray on, then let dry.  It sheds water nicely.  But anything it touches gets wet underneath.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

lewis

a guy had 2 drums of end wax and one was leaking,he told me he would give 20 gal if I would move it to another drum I cut the top off and used a can to xfer the wax, it was mixed with ammonia,there were no labels on  the drums so I don't know what kind it is,but it sure works good,dose anchor seal have ammonia in it?

Ox

lewis - what's the purpose of the ammonia?  Is it used as a carrier which acts like a thinner and then evaporates away leaving behind the wax?
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

lewis

that's what I assumed, it was almost as if the wax was dissolved in ammonia,I had to stir it as it had separated 

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