Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25-RA First impressions

[Bibbyman]

My first impression of the new two-tone orange and black paint scheme on the 20'th anniversary model Wood-Mizer mills was that it reminded me of the old classic cars of the 30's – bright colored body features with black finders and running boards.  But after a couple of days living with it,  I think it reminds me more of the Hugger Orange 69 Chevelle Super Sports,  SS 396 Comaros and Pontiac GTO Judge of my youth.

The paint, fit and finish was topnotch – far better than on an average piece of industrial equipment.  Most of the weld seams were ground and polished with no spatter or beads.   All of the hardware was plated and had locking features of one type or another.  No hydraulic leaks,  loose or miss-aligned parts were noted.  Everything worked and was in alignment.  My complements and appreciation to the people who built and assembled this mill for their craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Setting up a stationary Wood-Mizer is a lot more work than a mobile unit.  Legs to bolt on and bolt down without the aid of adjustable outriggers.  You have to remove the axle assembly and hitch, etc.  In the case of our new LT40HDE25,  we had the electrician back one more time to make the connection and to switch the motor taps to 230 volts.  We had some interruptions and other issues to deal with but it took us most of two days to get the mill ready to fire up.  

Friday afternoon we put a blade and a log on the mill and fought over who was going first.  I lost so I got to be the one to "smoke test" it.  

We have run an LT40G18 for 8 years and a LT40HDG35 Super for almost two years.  But this was our first experience behind the remote console of an electric mill.  First time also to run the Accuset setworks and new clamping system.  We had logged a million miles walking behind the sawhead – it didn't seem right for it to just go back and forth without us.  But you can't make use of the speed of the Super without the remote console.

I fired up the motor and it kicked in and started turning.  Then it hit like high gear.  I think there is some sort of delay in the starting contactors that minimized a power spike on the line.  My first objective was to knock a slab off without breaking anything.  No problem.  Then I wanted to move the blade down 1" and make another cut.  I struggled with the Accuset setworks.  My problem was that I was trying to run it in manual mode and that's just not practical.  You can drive yourself nuts trying to get the digital display to read 10" exactly without using the setworks.  You can run it up and down and all around and it will fall a 1/32 over or under or a 1/16 or whatever.  If you were just looking at the old scale on the frame,  you couldn't even see the error but in the digital display,  it stuck out.  After making a couple of cuts,  I shut it off and walked away in frustration.  We knew it would saw,  we just needed to hit the books and lean a little more.

We did get training on the Accuset but,  being me,  I thought Mary was taking it all in and I'd just let her teach me later.   I was standing behind her when the instruction was taking place.  On the way home with the mill,  we talked about it and she said from the angle she was at,  the sun was in her eyes and she really didn't see too much of what was going on and thought I was picking it up as I didn't ask any questions.  

But we hit the books and talked about it some.  Saturday morning we went out and programmed the Accuset for the application we were trying to saw.  The light had come on that if you manually placed the sawhead where you wanted to make your first cut,  cut it, then go into Auto down mode programmed at 1" and hit the down switch,  the head would lower 1" and you would make the next cut exactly where you wanted it.  After the first two sides were cut,  then we (in our case for this application) would go to the pattern mode and cut 1" boards down to 6".  When we had a 6x6 cant, we would then go to another pattern that was set at 1" drops on down until done.

There was a little frustration remembering the order to do this and then that and so on but I was able to fumble through sawing another log with Mary's assistance.  Then Mary took over sawing and I helped her through the first log.  By the fourth log,  things were going a lot faster and with less backups and startovers.  It's kind of like learning how to dance – first you learn the steps one after the other,  then you put them together, then you smooth out to the rhythm and then it all comes natural and you don't know why it was so difficult to begin with.  

In the first few hundred board feet,  we didn't use the debarker or the board dragback feature as we were concentrating on using the setworks and just getting accustomed to the 25 hp electric motor.  It's strange not being able to hear the motor pull down.  We have not pushed the mill too hard but I've yet to detect any strain on the electric motor.  So we'll just have to keep pushing it a little harder to see where the top end is.  I suspect it will cut twice as fast as we have been sawing.  By the end of the fist 500 board feet,  Mary has started to use the debarker.  We get this down and then we'll start using the board dragback

We are powering this 3ph mill with the aid of a rotary phase converter.  I'll save that experience for another installment – provided there is interest.





Here's Mary lookin' through the window.

[Kevin]

Looks great Bib!
Thanks for taking the time to run through it for us.

[Jeff]

I want one. Tell WM I'll make em primary advertisers and they can just haul one up when they get time. ;)

[Tom]

I'm getting Jelous :D

Holy cow, an electric mill in your back yard.......and no wheels on it either.    Hmmmm  : what did you do with the wheels?  and the axle?  Is that a temporary, send-back-to-the-factory, type part or do you put it in the attic just in case you want to move the mill some day?

I'll bet you run out of the blade's capability to cut before you run out of electric motor.  Does it have an Amp meter to give you an indication of how hard you are driving it?

Sounds like you are on cloud 9 Bibbeyman.  You're going to come home from work one evening after Mary has had some practice and not be able to get into the yard for the stacks of wood.  Ha......she'll turn you into a salesman just as a matter of survival. :D

[Bibbyman]

The axle and wheel assembly go back to WM.  I guess if you thought you were going to move it around ever time the sawdust built up,  then you'd get the axle package.  But man is it nice not to have to jump the wheel every time you make a board.  Lots easier to clean out junk from under it.

If I were going to move it say to a new building or something,  I'd bridge it up or lift it with a big piece of power equipment and put it on a trailer deck.  A person could also fashion an axle assembly pretty easy for just moving it a little ways.

No amp meter, but I'm going to look into seeing what a set of meters would cost to place at the disconnect switch.

Not on cloud 9 but I am ready for bed! ???


Just look at the daylight under this mill! 8)

[Papa Dave]

Bibbyman, that is a fine looking machine. Sounds like you better be careful, cause Mary is gonna get ahead of you real quick.  She might let you offbear for her for a can of peas.

Congratulations!!!

[Bibbyman]

We are running the mill on a 50kVA Ronk rotary phase converter. We talked to our power company two weeks about getting the service upgraded to 3ph - a distance of 6/10 of a mile. The answer was always $40,000 bucks. But the right of way was already there! We know - $40,000 bucks. But you can work right off my driveway that runs the whole distance. We know - $40,000 buck. They did come in and replace our transformer with a 50kVA unit and put in a new service.
 
The rotary phase converter appears to work fine. The cost of the converter is only the half of it. You have to have switched fuse disconnects, motor starters, cable and such.
Communication between the electrician, phase converter manufacture, the sawmill manufacture, the electrical supply place, and the power company was a constant frustration. All have answers and they were all right - if you asked the right questions.

You have to learn the language to ask the question and to understand the answer. For example, I went to the electrical supply pace and told them I needed a cable that could carry 100amp/240 volt load - 4 wires and be flexible like an extension cord to a welder or large appliance. We talked and gestured like a tourist in Old Mexico. Finally they understood - I wanted an SOW cord. Well why didn't just say so. And for the life of me, I'll never understand why every time I went to the electrical supply place, I'd get someone new to deal with and have to start explaining all over again. Same with Ronk. I think I talked to everyone there before it was over.

If I were to do it over, I'd do a few things different and save some money. Also, I also see I made a mistake by mounting the rotary phase converter high up in the corner of the building. While not loud itself, it does set up a vibration on those walls that causes the boxes to make noise. Then any and all noise is amplified back out into the building because it is setting against two walls and just under the tin roof. I may have to relocate it outside in a nearby doghouse-like structure.

I'm not an electrician or have a EE degree. So use this info for reference only.



The system has a 200amp 240volt service. The first box has a 200-amp safety disconnect switch and 125 amp fuses. (Big Square-D box in lower middle.) I think the 125-amp fuses are for overload protection. The Ronk pulls 12-1/2amps each leg just to turn. I don't remember what it pulled under load.
 
The big gray box on top is just a junction box. (I had planed to put "power distribution blocks" here so I could just tap into it when I add more 3ph equipment but the blocks I ordered were the wrong size and it would take another week to get the right ones so we just tied everything together with split-bolt connectors.)

The smaller Square-D box in lower left is a 100amp 3-pole safety switch with 100amp fuses. It controls power to the sawmill.

The box above the 200amp switch holds the "definite purpose contractor" used to switch on the Ronk on and off. Note: small start/stop switch under the box.

The big aluminum box hold the capacitors for the converter.
The gray box under the aluminum box has nothing to do with the 3ph converter. It is the 100-amp single-phase panel for lights, etc.
 
The cost of a 3ph mill is $4,100 less than the diesel powered mill and about $2000 less than the gas mill and is said to out perform both. (25hp 3ph mill + the phase converter about equal to the diesel mill) Also, I'm expecting the fuel cost to be about half. Oil, antifreeze, filters, plugs, etc. were also costly items plus the time to find, and change them - gone.

I looked into variable frequency drives, speed reducers or whatever they are called and the one I was quoted cost as much as the rotary phase converter setup. I couldn't get much guidance on the device so I went with the low-tech alternative. I rationalize if the frequency drive went out, I'd have a very expensive doorstop and a long wait until I got a replacement unit. On the other hand, if a disconnect switch or starter contactor went out, I could replace it for a couple hundred bucks. If the rotary phase converter went out, I could probably get it repaired at a local motor shop.

[Bud Man]

Bibbyman== What did you mount the legs on (Footing's-Blocks??)== Can you put in words the difference in accuset over simple setworks ??-Is it much better?? === Is Mary having difficulty adjusting to eyeballing the log from a fruther distance when she starts a new log or rotates. ???   Really enjoyed the post  --Thanks for Sharing !!!

[Bibbyman]

I'll give this a shot.  I've seen and had the Simple Setworks described to me a few years back but I've not used them.  Mary has been doing most of the sawing on the new mill so I've only logged maybe four hours on it.  So if I get a B out of this test, I'll be happy.  


Accuset Setworks on Command Control

From what I remember,  the Wood-Mizer Simple Setworks take the position reading somewhere in the sawhead up/down drive train. You can program in some number of board thickness and when you hit the down switch,  the head lowers that amount.

The Accuset Setworks has a rod and sensor located on the sawhead behind the shield where the manual scale rule is mounted.  It is the same type of control device that as used in computer controlled NC milling machines.  It references the "dead nuts" distance from the saw bed to the saw head.  It reads the distance and sends it to the Accuset Setworks that adjust the head up and down until it is happy.  When you hit the down lever on the Accuset, the head goes zip down and then it may bump up or down to get the exact distance it wants. This is opposed to the Simple Setworks were there could be some lash in the drive system.

The Accuset Setworks has four modes: Manual, Auto Down, Auto Up and Pattern.  I think the Simple has only manual and basically Auto Down.  Manual is pretty self-explanatory.  

Auto Down and Up move the head up or down the according to the distance you have programmed referenced from where the head was when it was selected. - If the sawhead is at say 15-19/32", and you select Auto Down programmed for a 4/4 board, then it will drop that amount plus the kerf.  On the next cut, hit the down lever and it will drop the right amount for that board and so on.  Auto Up works the same way.  Movements are adjusted from where the head is when the mode is selected.

Pattern mode is different as it is programmed in reference to the saw deck and it lets you program 6 or 7 different thickness - say a 1" board then a 2-1/2" and then a 1-5/8" and so on.  But most likely you'll want to program in all the first ones the same and the last one whatever thickness you'd want out of your heart saw.  Say you want to saw grade out of the outside and leave a 6x8 resaw cant out of the middle. Then you'd have one program set to 4/4 boards down to the last one being 6" on one and then 4/4 boards down to 8" on another.

Programming the Accuset.  Each of the modes other than manual can store up to 16 program sets.  You also program in the blade kerf thickness.  (If you change to a blade that has a thicker or thinner kerf, then you can go back and reset the kerf dimension appropriate but you don't have to touch all the other drop settings.  Your resulting boards will be the same thickness.) When you make a program change, you have to SAVE it if you want to use it again.  Sometimes you may have a need to cut something odd - say someone come up with a log and wants 5/8" thick boards out of it.  You can program a set for this application, saw it, and then turn the switch off and it is gone. When you turn it back on again, whatever you had saved will be back.

In my limited experience,  here is how I use the Accuset Setworks:  Log loaded and positioned as usual.  I run the head up to make my opening face and raise/lower it in manual mode to where I want it - then select Auto Down and the program thickness I want to make - say 4/4.  Saw off the slab, bump up, return,  bump the down switch and the head lowers all of what I've bumped up plus the 4/4 thickness plus the kerf for the next cut.  More boards the same way.  Turn the log a quarter turn.  Go back to manual and repeat as above on face two.  Turn the log and then go to Pattern mode - say 4/4 boards with a 6x6 out of the heart.  Bump the down switch and it will find it's mark to make 4/4 boards down to 6" - saw, saw, saw, turn, saw, saw, saw, turn, etc.  Resulting in 4/4 boards and a 6x6.

A variation of the above would be if you wanted a 6x8 out of the middle, then you'd have to alternate on the Pattern program you use depending on the face you were on.  Also,  say you've swapped to opposite faces and have sawn the cant down to 6" one way.  Now you go to the adjacent face - you need to go to manual and raise the head above the height of the cant and then back to your Pattern mode so it will drop down to where the next board needs to be taken.

Try it! You'll like it!  8)

[Bud Man]

Thanks -Sounds clear as a bell -- I intend to try one.  Just ordered one !!!

[Bibbyman]

Congratulations Bud Man!  8)

Tell us what you ordered?

Sorry,  I missed your question on how we supported our stationary LT40 mill.  

Wood-Mizer sends you an installation drawing and other documentation ahead of the delivery of the mill that recommends a concrete floor and 5/8" anchor bolts.  Real good way to go - but we didn't.   It wasn't a mater of expense or time, we just don't like to work on concrete.  Besides being hard on your feet and knees,  it reminds me too much of factory work. :'(


We built our sawshed in the spring of 95.  It has a sawdust over creek gravel floor - packed by a gazillion footsteps!  We had some full 2"x12" x 6' oak planks left over from an order for a lowboy ramp.  We placed them under the leg supports and bolted through them with 5/8" bolts with heavy washers on top and bottom. Maybe you can tell from the pictures that we ran these planks under two support legs and let them stick out on the off side to gain some wide stance support.

One of the main reasons to anchor a stationary mill is to prevent the chance of it tipping over if a large log is loaded or turned to rough – as you don't have the axle and wheel assembly to outrigger the mill on the off side.   To compensate for not having a concrete floor to anchor to,   we screwed two "dead men" anchors into the ground next to the front two corners.  We connected them to the mill with lengths of 3/8" log chain.  We removed the pivoting post that the sawhead sets on in transit (as it's not going anywhere anyway) and that was a ready made place to clevis the chain into.  We replaced a bolt on the front corner with one an inch longer so we could attach a chain there.  The chains are not tight but there is very little slack.

I think Mary is doing very well at judging the sawhead/blade vs. where the logs is.  Sometimes it kind of helps to be back further to get a better line on things.

[Bud Man]

Bibbyman ---Ordered LT40HDG36  --Aside from standard package, also ordered Command Control Remote Operator Station===Didn't want to walk or ride an extra mile or two every day===It has included with it the Accuset and Auto Clutch ===Also Ordered :  Debarker & Trailer Package. Wood-mizer said I could add seat later if desired. Got ordered before price increase that will take place 3-15 02   Whew ; (Saved a bundel) !!  ;)   I like the Black chain look (painted or coated ?? and the orange on yours seems deeper color.( Looks Good)====="  It takes a person really comfortable with himself to share his experiences" Thanks for all your post's

[Bibbyman]

Last fall there was a lot of talk about the economy and what way it was going, on and on.  People were wringing their hands in worry and setting on their plans. Over on "another forum" I said it was time to buy.  The reason being that as soon as the economy turns around,  companies will go for a big jump in prices – having been pinned down in most of '00 and '01.  (Boy! Now we can say: "I can remember back in the winter of '02." like our grandpappies did!") And,  if you had money in the bank, it wasn't doing you any good.  If you didn't have money in the bank,  it was the cheapest time to borrow some.

Well,  I took my advice and went out and bought this new mill.  Earlier this week I got a flyer from Wood-Mizer promoting package deals from February 1 through March 16.  They may be throwing in a jacket or something but otherwise it looks like a price increase to me.  Doing the math backwards,  it looks like prices will increase from 5% on some models to as much as 12% on others.  Looks like the model I got went up about 10%.

You may say "that's just on orange machines".  Well,  I've seen how this works in real life and if one company raises prices,  all the others will follow.  Especially if the one that raises is the leader in the industry.  

:P Now if I was really smart,   I would have bought when I did but wait until after the price increase to sell my used mills because as the prices of new mills go up, the price of used mills look better.

Now makes an even better time to buy! 8) 8) [/color][/size]

[Bibbyman]

Since we installed our new Wood-Mizer mill in January,  many have asked how much our electric bill has ran.  Well,  trying to get an answer in some relevant terms has not been easy.  We'd know how much electricity we used but didn't keep track of board feet sawn over that time period.  Or we'd know the amount of board feet in a project but didn't record the kW used.

Well, Saturday a week ago we finally got it together and recorded the use of 37kW to saw 1200 BF of 4/4 lumber.  This cost us just under $3.50 in electricity.

More details:

Only one meter for the building so the above usage includes running a 1hp single-phase dust collector and a regular size refrigerator.  We are generating our 3ph power through a roto-phase converter.  It's said that performance in reduced some 3-5% and the converter is running many time while the saw is temporarily shut down.

1200 BF is the count on "good lumber".  There was at least 100 BF of blocking out of the heart saws that is not in this count.  The logs were all sycamore and oak all 8' long and 14-20" dia.

Mary was running the saw and I was offbearing for her.  While she is picking up speed running the mill,  she in meticulous in her sawing.  I've seen people that could have sawn twice as fast (but not as careful).  But she was sawing faster than I could keep up offbearing and stacking.  So I was the limiting factor.  Mary had to pace her sawing to how fast I could pull and stack the boards/slabs.  She'd often have to pause for me to get out of the way. There where times when Mary had to offbear for herself when it looked like I wasn't going to make it back.

The sawing time was about 4 hours over a little over 5 hours total time.  We stopped for a couple of short breaks,  one customer visit, lunch break, changed one blade, and I had to jump on tractor to move slabs and re-charge the skids one time.  

I guess what I'm saying - if you had two or more people to offbear and stack, support equipment like conveyors and live decks,  the mill could produce closer to it's peak performance and thus the watt consumption would have been reduced.

And!! You know what??  I ain't changed the oil, oil filter, air filter,  fuel filter, plugs, or anything in 200 hours of use!
     

[DanG]

It's good to revisit this thread, Bibbyman. I'm excited for you, all over again.

I'll bet the noise level is seriously reduced, especially inside a building, like that.  Do you find yourself listening to the blade, more, rather than the motor, to tell how your saw is fairing? I'll bet it's nice to not be breathing exhaust fumes with your sawdust, too. 8) 8)

[Bibbyman]

Well,  we still wear hearing protection.  I just wear plugs but Mary has got accustom to wearing her logging helmet with muffs.  Says they keep her ears warm in the winter.  Says too,  she don't like plugs because she feels like she has more ear problems caused by stuffing dust, dirt, sweat down her ear canal.

While the noise level is low enough to hear the blade if you are close by,  we are running a phase converter and a dust collector - both make more noise then the mill.  If I had it to do over again,  I'd locate that stuff outside is some other little structure.

Not having to lug fuel around and sling 5 gallons jugs of it up on sawhead tray is a real plus.  

We still have to carry water about 100 yards to the mill.  We've thought about putting gutters on the building and running the water to a holding tank.  We'd mount a tank up above the mill and have a little pump to refill it.  Then run a hose down with the power cable and dust collection tubes to the mill head.

Besides no fumes,  looks there is going to be far less heat too.  ;)

[ElectricAl]

Bibbyman,

So what your saying is, "Electrofying" is a good thing?


For us it was great!

Went from $400 / month in gasoline to $50 in electric.
Plus no engine maintenance costs. We were changing oil and filter every 50 hours, which was every Saturday afternoon.

Never tried to figure the Kw usage. Maybe next time the kiln is shut off we'll try it.

The only draw back to being electric is you miss out on all the great portable sawing thrills. Like getting stuck, sunburn, frostbite, struck by lighting, stung, and breaking down 100 miles from home.

But sacrifices need to be made.
  
 :D
ElectricAl

[Bibbyman]

I've been negligent in my publicly thanking the people at Wood-Mizer,  Ronk,  and Richard Newman for helping me with this project.

A special thanks to Allen and Linda Root who have been my primary guide through the process of change from mobile gas mill to stationary electric by way of phase converter.  You could fill a book with all they have sent me.  :P

Allen and Linda have a lot of good idea on how to improve the process.    I'm looking forward to seeing more of their postings.

[Bibbyman]

It's been two years now since we installed the new LT40HDE25 and I thought it'd be time for an update.

We've put 1,083 hours on the hour meter and I estimate we've sawn something over 300,000 bf of mostly dimension and grade lumber on it. And it's still turning out excellent lumber.

Repairs have been minimal.  

Right after we got it,  we had one of the check valves cracked on one of the log loader cylinders.  Figured it was bumped in manufacture or delivery.  Wood-Mizer replaced it.

Middle of the first year,  one of the hoses that run the dual plane clamp got push over such that it got caught by the movement of the clamp and the hose was pulled from the connector.  I got a "reusable" fitting from a supply house and repaired it in a couple of minutes.  I bought two – incase an accident happens like that again I can spend hours looking for the connector I know I have some place.

One of the pivot pins on the loading arm lost it's carter key.  The pin worked out and jammed the loading arm. We had to file off a burr that had been made when the pin slipped out and reassemble with a new carter key.

About a year ago we had the up/down switch go bad.  It didn't really burn out but it could not spring back to center.  It probably could have been repaired but we replaced it.

Last summer I replaced some pop rivets that hold a little piece of sheet metal to the front blade guard.  Broken blades, constant battering of sawdust and vibration had cut/broken the inside bulge off about three rivets.

Last fall we started having problems with the battery light coming on.  We kept trying to figure out what was causing it, loose/dirty connection, loose alternator belt,  etc.  Finally about Christmas time it failed all together.  I could charge the battery up with a charger but it would not keep charge.  Took the battery to town and had it checked.  They said it was fine. Took the alternator off and had it tested and it tested bad.  Wood-Mizer replaced it under warrantee. We later had the battery re-tested, this time under load, and it was weak.  We replaced it.

While replacing the alternator,  we noted that the main drive belt – a triple "V" belt – was now a double and a single "V" belt.  We had bought a spare drive belt so we replaced it.

Just a coupe of weeks ago, Mary went out to saw when the temperature was in the single digits and the wind chill below zero.  It had rained hard the day before and had saturated the sawdust and debris under the mill.    When she loaded the second log,  she noted that the check valve broke where it went into the lower end of the loader cylinder.  She took the cylinder to town to an auto parts shop where they removed the broken part of the check valve and fixed her up with a substitute coupling.  She came home and replaced it and promptly found that the check valve was also broken.  So she repeated the trip and temporary repair on the other hydraulic connection.   I had the threads on the check valves re-cut and replaced them.  Just a hard lesson to learn about keeping the debris clear from the area around the bottom of the loading arms.

Adjustments have been minimal.  

We've had to adjust the little rocker fingers that activate the hydraulic pump switch a couple of times this year.  

We were sawing an over sized and odd shaped sycamore log and had it jump the turner and fall back on the loading arms.  It gave the mill quite a jolt.  After that,  we were sawing fencing lumber and I noted that the last board would be a little thinner on one side – especially after the cant was flipped so it would show twice the error.  I went though the blade to bed alignment routine and adjusted the tilt on the head by 1/8 turn of the adjustment nuts.  This proved to be too much and I backed them back 1/16 turn.

I had to twink the blade guide rollers the first week or so after we got the mill.  I figure they had them set for 1-1/2" blades and we were running 1-1/4".  We're still running the original blade guide rollers – just hit them with one pump of grease when we think about – maybe once a week.

Wood-Mizer has been very good to work with.  They have sent out a couple of new versions of their updated Accuset boards.  Mary just updated to the latest version early in January.  Each version gets better and easier to program with more features.

If feel the LT40HDE25 has stood up quite well. 8)

[Kirk_Allen]

Bibbyman:
I had the Accuset setworks installed on my LT40 in July of 2002.  I have used the Auto Down 99% of the time and have pre-programed everything I need.  I have read the info on the Pattern mode but haven't made heads or tails of it.  I have been even more confused after talking with two different people at WM.

My question relates to the use of the Pattern mode?

When you select Pattern the display will show I think 7 sets of numbers.  If I wanted to cut 2x4 material how would you program it to leave a 7x9 tie?

I tried to follow what you posted before but I think the cold has frozen the brain a little.

Thanks for your input.

Kirk

[Bibbyman]

I take it you've read the instructions in the WM manual and talked through it with the Service guys at WM.  And you've read what I've posted in the Knowledge Base under..

Using the Wood-Mizer Accuset Setworks

.. and the light just hasn't come on.  

Well,  This is may one case where reading and explaining over the phone is probably not going to turn on the light.  I'm sure if you were to have a little one on one instruction and watch someone saw out one 7x9 and then saw one out yourself with some guidance,  you'd take to it like a duck to water.

Let's see.  To cut 2x4s out of the "outside" and leave a 7x9 tie from the inside...

I'd pick one number under Pattern Mode to program and then I'd set it to read 2,2,2,2,2,7 (or in our case, we saw 2" stock 1-3/4" thick so we'd program 1-3/4, 1-3/4,1-3/4, 1-3/4,1-3/4 and then 7" at the bottom.)  

I pick another number under Pattern Mode (probably under the same button – just the next set) and program 2,2,2,2,2,9" as the last number.  

Then I'd program yet another number under Pattern Mode to 4,4,4,4,4,4,4 all the way down – the width of a 2x4.

Then I'd have one button programmed under the Auto Down mode to 2". You've got this part down pat.

I'd put the log on the mill and use Manual Mode to open up a 4" face.  Then use the Auto Down to take off a 2" flitch.  In my mind I'd call this Face One.

I'd turn 90 and open a under Manual mode I'd open a 4" face and take a flitch.  I'd think of this as Face Two.

I'd turn another 90 and raise the blade above the log and then go to the Pattern mode I'd made with the 7" at the bottom.  I'd hit the down switch so the blade goes to a location that is 7" + the next 2"+2",etc. thickness increment above that. (Now you understand how the kerf setting works - the number for the distance the blade is above the deck may be some really strange number but for the sake of instruction let's say the number now reads 15".  That would be 2"+2"+2"+2"+7")  So you've got enough wood to make four 2" flitches.  I'd cut the slab there and hit the down switch and take,   lets say, one 2" flitch. Now I've got Face Three opened up. The cant is now has three flats and is 13" through from the First and Third face.

I turn another 90 and repeat the step above except using the Pattern mode I'd set for 9".  Lets say the blade falls where it will cut 15" above the deck – 2"+2"+9".  You take make the first cut and open the face and then make one flitch.  Now you've got Face Four made and the cant is 13" x 13".  (kind of confusing for our demo purposes because figuring in the kerfs,  the numbers won't be 13"x13" but I hope you understand that.)

Turn 90 again and you have Face One up again and Face Three down.  Raise the head above the cut and go back to the Patter you set for 7" and bump the down switch until it finds it's mark 2" below the face and take another flitch.  Now the cant is 11"x13".  Lets say the there is not much stress in the cant so you can come back and hit the down switch and it will lower to the 2"+7" mark.  Make another cut and the cant is now 9"x13".

Now...  I don't know if I'd turn 90 or 180.  Let's say 180 ... Flip the cant over until Face Three is up and Face one is down on deck.  Without moving out of the Pattern mode you have set for 7",  bump the down switch and the blade will now drop to 7" to make the last cut.  The cant is 7"x13 and Faces One and Three are done.

Turn 90 to Face Two again,  raise the head above the cant.  Switch to Patter mode and the set you made for 9".  Bump the down switch and it should first stop at the top of the cant or 13". Then bump down again and it will be at 11".  Cut the flitch.  Now the cant is 7"x11".

Flip the cant 180 or until Face Four is up and Face Two is on deck.  Without getting out of the Pattern mode and set for the 9",  hit the down switch and it will now drop to 9".  Make your cut and you've got a 7"x9".

If you edge on the mill,  you now have a some number of flitches to edge.  Edge one edge of each flitch under Manual mode – just like you've been doing.  Then stack all the "clean" edges down on the mill and "barky" edges up.  Rise the blade above the height of the flitches and go to the Pattern mode set where it is 4" (or whatever width you program for 4" wide – we saw full width so we have one set to 4")  and hit the down lever.  The blade will find 12" or 8" or 4" above the bed – depending on how high the head was when you started down.  Make cuts as required to end up with 2x4s.     (Likely some will make better 2x6s or 2x10s, etc. but that's for you to decide.)

Now there is a thousand variations of the above you may want to try depending on the size and condition of the log.  But this should give you another explanation.
 
I'd recommend you look up WM at the next Field Days, or Open House, or demo at a big forestry show and have one of them give you some one on one instruction and demo the use of Pattern Mode.

I'm sure if you stood behind someone actually doing this,  you'd go.. "OH!  Now I see!".

[Kirk_Allen]

Bibbyman:
Yes I have read the instructions and talked with WM but I had not read your post on the Knowledge Base.  

Thanks for that link.  I will print that and what you just posted and go through this step by step.

Has the light come on?  Well, thanks to your input I at least have power to the bulb ;D

I agree that had I had some one on one training it would have helped.  When they installed the Accuset they walked me through the cutting of one log using the Auto up/down and then told me the Pattern mode is even easier to operate and that Pattern mode is what I will use the most.  Unfortunately they did not have time to bring in another log and go through the pattern mode.

With the input you just gave me it will help.

I will keep you posted on how it works out.

Thanks so much!
Kirk

[Stump Jumper]

thank you for accuset up grade info Bibby. 8)I called woodmizer and told them i had the 3.02 version they said i would have a 3.05 tomarow . thank you woodmizer!  8)    

Kirk Allen I did not under stand instructions ether so i just played around with it for an hour or two first using  a tape mesure from the blade to bed an finding there no waste on the last board to be trimed off 8) things just got better from there 8) 8)

[Kirk_Allen]

Bibbyman / stump-jumper:

I have to admit some confusion.  I contacted WM regarding the Version upgrades you both have mentioned for the Accuset.  

Bibby, you mentioned that they have sent you out a couple of upgrades and that your wife recently upgraded again to the current version.

Stump, you said they will have 3.05 version to you tomorrow.

My question is this:  What did it cost you for those new revisions?

I was quoted between $499 and $800 depending on my current version to upgrade to the 3.05 version.  Maybe I'm not asking the right questions but I got the impression from both posts that WM took care of these upgrades at no charge.  Forgive me if that assumption is incorrect.

[Bibbyman]

I think I related the story in one of my earlier post about the first few day of trying to get my light turned on using Accuset.

The first attempt was a disaster.  I had to just quit and go to the house.  I read and re-read the instructions, as did Mary.  We went out the next day and we both fumbled through trying what we thought would work.  Then, the light came on and we've learned even more ways of using the Pattern mode.

It may be hard to believe but once you've got it set and you're sawing about the same thing over and over - like 7x9s,  you'll hardly look down to read what the display says.  

Another little tip.  If you are sawing out something - say a 4x10,  and you have one Pattern set programmed down to 4" and another down to 10",  it is real easy to forget what faces run what way.   This is,  you'll be sawing away on the One/Three face going for 4" and then turn 90 to the Two/Four face and forget to go to the Pattern set for 10".  Then you're screwed.  If you don't totally mess up,  you'll have to make some kind of an adjustment cut to get back on schedule.  But we reduced the chance of getting off by striking a mark across the end of the log with a log marker in either the One/Three face direction or the Two/Four direction.  Often we'll also mark the dimension as in 10" in the center.  This provides a reminder as to what pair of faces should be sawn on what Pattern set.