Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25-RA First impressions

[Kirk_Allen]

Thanks for the tips Bibby.

Can you give me any insite on the Accuset upgrades?  

Thanks
Kirk

[Bibbyman]

Our Accuset was having some display problems.  Sometimes it would go blank and you'd have to shut down and start gain.  It may go an hour or day but it got to be more frequent. Our mill was still under warrantee so it didn't cost us nothing.  

The newer versions are much easier and less time consuming to program.  It has a "copy" feature so it copies the top set dimension on Pattern mode all the way down.  Then you just adjust the bottom set for your pattern.

The new version has a "Go to" function.  This is four programmable sets that you and punch the odd button in the upper left of the panel and hit the up or down switch and the head will raise or lower to that point.  Real handy when you saw down to the deck and you're ready for the next log - just hit this button and then the up switch and it will rise to this point with no further attention.  It gives you time to grab the log loading arm lever to start the next log onto the mill.

I'd say,  if your Accuset is working fine and your mill is out of warrantee,   I'd not fix it.

[Kirk_Allen]

Bibby,
As far as my Accuset working fine goes, the only complaint I have had is it is commonly 1/16th to 1/8th off in the Auto Down mode.

After todays email from WM on the current upgrade version I was wondering if all the current advantages to the new system are worth biting the bullet for.  For my system the upgrade to the 3.05 version will cost $475.00.  Since this would basically make it a brand new Accuset ($2500 retail) I'm thinking of going ahaead with the upgrade.

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks
Kirk

[Bibbyman]

I guess I don't understand what you mean about 1/16 to 1/8" off?  We've never had an accuracy issue with our Accuset.  At one point one of the early versions would sometimes skip a drip and move on to the next one.  Even a couple of times it would jump to another set pattern.  But from drop to drop,  it's always been dead nuts on.

There are a couple of calibrations that need to take place after you've replaced the boards.  There is a number on the position sensor on the sawhead that has to be entered.  Also you have to have your blade 12" from the bottom side of the blade to the bed and then set the 'blade at 12"' deal on the Accuset.

If you do any head alignment changes or diddle with the blade guide rollers, you should check and then do the set at 12" thing again.

One little time saver I've figured out on my own..  Before you switch out the board,   make sure you set the sawhead exactly at 12".  Swap your board out and then in the calibration step where you're asked to set the blade height to 12",  all you got to do is poke the button.  (After you put the new board in,  the display may read about anything.  When you poke the set at 12" deal,  it will read 12".)

Do you adjust the kerf setting?  We'll put the blade kerf in when sawing 4/4 and a lot of other stuff but take it out when sawing common fencing lumber.  We saw on the inch and the boards will be shy the saw kerf.  Still makes for a pretty stout board.

[Kirk_Allen]

I spoke with Rick at WM and apparently they have had some accuracy issues but it seams to show up on the upper end of the scale for my version.  

I do have the unit calibrated properly at 12" but if you take the blade up to let say 30 inches, the display may be 1/8th inch off but when you bring it back down it gets closer to the right number.  Thats with taking measurement from the bottom of the downset tooth on the blade above the bed rail.

Unfortunately, to date everything I have been cutting of my own logs has been on the Large side of the equation 25-40" logs.

I have the kerf setting programed and never mess with it, but I do check it to make sure its still correct.

Now I did have one occasion last spring that the number on the display did not match the number on the sensor. I re-programed it and all was fine.  I noticed it after the first couple of boards.  Knew something wasn't right so started checking and somehow the numbers were not correct.  WM had not heard of that problem before and since I corrected it all seems fine as far as the number being saved in the program.

[Bibbyman]

I'm sure I've not raised the head up that high and checked the actual distance from the blade to bed against the Accuset display. I guess it would be an interesting test but you probably wouldn't notice it in the lumber.

[Oregon_Sawyer]

I had set-works on my first mill. I thought it was great.

Accuset is at least 5 times as good.  The feature I find that I like the most is the auto-up,  as I cut several dimensions out of salvage cedar.  Sometimes I will have it set for pattern and will see that there is another board above so I will go to auto-up.  Or,  I will see that I need to go down several drops on the pattern setting for a good board and will use auto-up to retrieve other boards.

bibby:  Your description on how to use pattern was great.

I found the book to be sorely lacking.

I cut mostly 1 3/4 boards and I have changed to cutting 13/16 for my "3/4in".  That way I can go back and forth with a pattern setting of  1 3/4 and 13/16 as that is exactly half of 1 3/4 with saw kerf allowed for.

For example if I am cutting 2x6 I will set pattern for 1 3/4 all the way down.  If the top board is not a good 2x6 I will cut a 1x.  Or if as I am cutting there is a bad spot I will cut a 1x. and go back to 1 3/4.

It is a great tool.

Loren

[Bibbyman]

I just got to thinking today that our "new" LT40 Super is actually just about 4 year old.   We've used it more than a little.  We've got 2500 hours on it and have probably sawn a half a million board feet with it.

Let's see.  In that time we have replaced (other than belts, guide bearings, etc.) the alternator (while still under warrantee), a couple 2-3 solenoid switches, a couple small dash toggle switches, rubber bumpers, the contact strip contactor a couple of times and had the brushes replaced in both hydraulic pumps.

There has been a couple of "self inflicted" wounds such as breaking the hydraulic fuse link off the log lift cylinders when trying to use them on freezing weather and having frozen gunk around them.  And letting a hose get caught by the clamp and pulling it apart.

We've had to adjust the hydraulic switch assembly over the valve body a couple of times.  We've had to go in and tighten the set screw on the board drag back pulley a couple of times.  The little cable that lifts the dragback broke and I replace it with a light chain.

I've had one part actually break at the weld.  I can't say it was a design or welding flaw.  We had a blade break and when we went to replace it we noted that the bottom section of the blade guide was missing. We found it under the mill.  It looked like the broken blade hit it square on.  It had broken clean at the weld.  Not knowing what kind of iron or steel it was and being a nasty day I took it a welding shop where we've done business with before.  He welded up while we were standing there and charged $5.00. 

Nothing has been done to the motor other than a squirt of grease once a year.  We did have two fuses blow in the main disconnect box but that apparently wasn't anything to do with the mill.

Our electric bill for the sawshed ran lass than $60 last month.  We also have a 10hp 3ph edger, a 5hp dust blower,  a refrigerator, fans, lights, office trailer with PC, etc.

I think that's outstanding performance and reliability.   8)

[Bibbyman]

I made a remark some time back about someone else's Wood-Mizer looking so clean.  It looked like a 67 Corvette ready for the auction block it was so detailed.

Well,  our 2002 Wood-Mizer is now 4 years old and has 2500 hours on it. Although it's under roof and we do maintain it,  we've never actually made any effort to clean the crud off it. 





After a couple hundred thousand board feet of walnut and other lumber produced on it,  it's stating to look like something drug out of a coal mine.

I've been thinking of taking a pressure washer to it.  I figure that's the only practical way to get the crud off. 

Any suggestions on what kind of soap to add to the water?   I don't want to take the paint off.  Also,  would it help to spray it down with some kind of car wax after it's clean?

I was also thinking I'd better cover over the vents on the motors and maybe tape around the electrical boxes.  They have a rubber seal but are probably not meant to hold out the water from a pressure washer.

[WH_Conley]

When I used to pressure wash equiptment and trucks I had some spray wax that mixed with water, not the best wax in the world, but the next time you washed it the wax disolved easier than the road film. As the road film was on top it all came off much easier. Two hours to wash a truck the first time, after that 30 minutes, tops. I would imagine some of the spray wax you could get at the parts store would do the same thing. As for the soap and degreaser, no idea, named by the company where I bought the stuff, didn't get MSDS sheets in those days. Safest one on paint was some stuff that smelled like paint thinner but mixed one part with 5 parts diesel, spray on and let soak (pump garden spray). Just about rinsed off. Just for the heck of it I tried some straight on a junk car one time, few minutes later most of the paint came off. Only way I could get the stuff was 5 gallons at time, was somewhere between 5 and 10 dollars a gallon in '93. If you can find someone that is in the business that would sell a gallon I beleive it would do you for a few years. Not much help, maybe a place to start looking.

[MartyParsons]

Bibbyman, I never like the pressure washer, it puts water where it should not be. Also it seems to damage decals and paint. When I get a used mill I remove all covers and take the air blower to remove all of the loose saw dust. Then I use car wash soap and a brillo pad and wash by hand. It takes some time. I also use WD 40 to remove any sap that is stuck where your hands are on the consol. I have used Mean Green cleaner also but it will fade the paint some.
Hope this helps.
Marty

[Brucer]

Any suggestions on what kind of soap to add to the water?   I don't want to take the paint off.  Also,  would it help to spray it down with some kind of car wax after it's clean?

Try good old liquid dishwashing soap. About 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons (everyone wants to use way too much).  Mix it in warm water, spray it on with low pressure, and leave it to soak for a while. Then give it a blast at full pressure. It may not leave your mill spotless, but it's cheap and gentle on the paint.

[Stump Jumper]

soak it with pure pine-sol first about 20 minutes. works for the pine sap that we mostly deal with. i really get a lot of pine sawdust in the radiator pine sol works there as well.

[Bibbyman]

Thanks for the info. 

You won't find a spec of pine sap on our mill.  Maybe a little cedar but not much.  Most of what's on it is off of walnut.  It's about like the undercarriage of a truck after driveling all winter over cindered roads.

I don't have a pressure washer and don't intend to buy one.  Besides we don't have a hydrant out at our shed.  What I was thinking of getting is an attachment for our air compressor that will work like a pressure washer.   


If it were a mobile mill I'd be tempted to take it to the car wash. (I wonder how it'd fit in one of those automatic jobs.!) 

I'd sure hate to have to go all over it by hand. 

P.S.  I hope I didn't gross anyone out with the pictures of our dirty Wood-Mizer.  We bought the machine to use and use it we do.

[jpgreen]

Bibby, that's how my LT40 looks now..  ;D

A great cleaner that won't effect the paint and takes crud off pronto is "Purple Power" at Walmart.  Find it in the auto section in white 1 gallon plastic jugs. Cheap too.

It beats simple green hands down, and makes a fantastic pre treat for your laundry at 50/50 mix. Prolly one of the best all around cleaners I've every used, and will degrease an engine like you wouldn't believe.

[Grappletractor]

Our electric bill for the sawshed ran lass than $60 last month.  We also have a 10hp 3ph edger, a 5hp dust blower,  a refrigerator, fans, lights, office trailer with PC, etc.

I think that's outstanding performance and reliability.   8)

Bibbyman, That electric bill seems awfully low, do you run your mill full time ? What is your kilowatt rate charge ?

[Bibbyman]

Bibbyman, That electric bill seems awfully low, do you run your mill full time ? What is your kilowatt rate charge ?

We've got a full-time sawmill opperation but with just the two of us we don't run the mill itself 8 hours a day.  Looking back at the hours on the mill and days/year we work,  I figure the mill is actually running about an average of 2.5 hrs/ working day. 

Our electric costs $15 for the meter and .06/kw.

[ElectricAl]

Bib,

That's a pretty good meter rate, we get hit for $22.

However, off peak rate is 4.9 cents ;D  But watch out at 4pm it goes to 14.2 cents


Grappletractor,

Our monthly bill is less then $200 for the entire business. That includes 10 fans in the kiln, electric hot water heater, office stuff, welder, ect.


Electric is cheap sawing 8)

[Grappletractor]

ElectricAl, can we see some pics of your klins ?

[ElectricAl]

Grappletractor,

Try this link to an old post here at the FF.

www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=2838.msg37655;topicseen#msg37655

Scroll down on the first page.

This post was made before we had "Drying and Processing"

[Bibbyman]

That's a pretty good meter rate, we get hit for $22.

I think our meter charge just went up to $25 the first of the year but the base rate went down to .05.  I don't think there is a peak bump .... yet.  They just canged out the meters this last week.  I wouldn't doubt it that's what's coming next.

The reason they gave for bumping the base price up was that there are so many meters at cabins, vacation homes, rural out buidings, etc, that get very little use but they still have to maintain the service.  People that use an average amount shouldn't see an increase, those who use a lot will see some reduction.

[Bibbyman]

We've got nearly 5,000 hours on our LT40 so this morning I shot some video of it to show how it's holding up..


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2Jx3bekr1M


Here is the "before" picture...



It's hard to remember it this clean!

[Magicman]

Thanks Bibby for taking the time to take us on that walk through.   

[Chuck White]

Yes Sir:
Definitely a custom sawmill!

Thanks for the video and a refresher on your mods!

[Coon]

Thanks for the vid Bibby.  Good to see the mods working well for ya.