This is part 1 of 2 in this first video I show the process of cutting a sawmill in half then bolting it back together to be able to mill lumber a stock width of 28'' then be able to extend to give a full width cut of 46''
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xws0u1ft_Qc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xws0u1ft_Qc)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38857/sawmill.JPG)
Going to go watch the vid!
#1: What about the weight concern of a 40+ inch diameter log? Most WM mills are only rated for a certain amount of weight....
#2: Very cool!!!
Scott in Cabot
I don't think the weight of the log is an issue, yes the mill has a 3500 lbs axel but when milling the weight is transfered to the jack stands. Think if you had a 20' log which was "regular" size it would be close to a 8-10-12 long log but double the diameter.
Yes fitting the log on can become an issue, although where I am most of the time I'll be cutting at 32-36'' maybe over 40'' at the crotch of a tree.
#2 thanks.... finger crossed.
Think you have enough horse power for the wide cuts?
Great video..thought about doing same thing. Looking forward to see your results. Do you have any plans to compensate for your main tube torqueing when you extend the head out,,, I was sort of amazed how much cutter head lifted when you removed outer portion.
Every time I talk to woodmizer here in Canada, I ask what do you think about the power? They always say you should be fine, of course a slow cut anyways because of the width.
Also I plan on doing a cut or 2 per blade then change, when cutting 40'' plus.
Time will tell.... (-:
Quote from: thechknhwk on August 01, 2015, 09:04:15 AM
Think you have enough horse power for the wide cuts?
Others around my area have done the same, one actually extended to cut 52''. He has nothing special to deal with the weight shift.
One reason I did go with aluminum, saved about 140lbs on the insert.
Quote from: joejeep on August 01, 2015, 09:20:46 AM
Great video..thought about doing same thing. Looking forward to see your results. Do you have any plans to compensate for your main tube torqueing when you extend the head out,,, I was sort of amazed how much cutter head lifted when you removed outer portion.
Nice job! I think you will be fine with the horsepower on wide cuts. Just slow it down and use the sharp blades.
Quote from: canadianwoodworks on August 01, 2015, 08:49:55 AM
I don't think the weight of the log is an issue, yes the mill has a 3500 lbs axel but when milling the weight is transfered to the jack stands.
Should keep this thread in mind when trusting the jacks to do extra duty:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,84696.0.html
BTW, I think what you are doing is great. There have been many times I could have used such an option.
@dean herring (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=28545) have you watched this video. ? Might be a solution to what you have been looking for. Easily done by any competent fab shop. I've thought about doing this, but sorta backed off due to requiring custom made blades. This way, you can still use standard blades until a big log comes along, then open up the throat and mount a long blade.
??? Where is part 2?
Nice job. Like the routing of the aluminum blank. You didn't mention about taking it down to the overall size. How did you do that, table saw?
I would seriously consider dropping the aluminum bar approach, and simply have a section of steel tube welded in to go up to 184" bands. That would add 13" to your maximum width of cut.
Consider that each time you extend the head it will require realigning the band rollers.
Also, have you ever tried turning 40" logs with the claw turner? It's not fun.... :(
Quote from: Delawhere Jack on August 01, 2015, 05:38:57 PM
I would seriously consider dropping the aluminum bar approach, and simply have a section of steel tube welded in to go up to 184" bands. That would add 13" to your maximum width of cut.
Consider that each time you extend the head it will require realigning the band rollers.
Also, have you ever tried turning 40" logs with the claw turner? It's not fun.... :(
There should be no issue of alignment, it's bang on right now while cutting at it's stock width, once I get my longer band I'll put it on adjust it till it's where it needs to be then bolt it solid, I plan to add a few welded nuts with bolts to act as set screws to help hold it where it should be.
I don't plan on rolling the logs, this would be for cutting slabs 3'' - 4'' think take slab off, cut another.
I think I'll also have a setting to use the 184'' bands.
But only time will tell, soon I hope to have part 2 ready to watch, but as of right now not attempted it.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on August 01, 2015, 02:05:34 PM
??? Where is part 2?
Nice job. Like the routing of the aluminum blank. You didn't mention about taking it down to the overall size. How did you do that, table saw?
I initially had it machined at a local machine shop on a cnc mill
Quote from: deadfall on August 01, 2015, 12:35:11 PM
Quote from: canadianwoodworks on August 01, 2015, 08:49:55 AM
I don't think the weight of the log is an issue, yes the mill has a 3500 lbs axel but when milling the weight is transfered to the jack stands.
Should keep this thread in mind when trusting the jacks to do extra duty:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,84696.0.html
BTW, I think what you are doing is great. There have been many times I could have used such an option.
Noted thank you!
I've looked at mine, wanting to do the same thing...think it will void the warranty? Hahahahaha!!! I know its alot to ask, but do you have drawings/blueprints of what the initial shop did for you? And what you had to fine tune afterward? I'm also wondering what year your mill is? And wondering the differences to mine...u have an lt40?
This one is a 1992 LT-40 Hydraulic, inside the tube measured 5 5/8'' x 1 5/8''.
Basically machine it to that size, then add the notch in the center on all sides... then go from there.
I sanded it with 80grit on those contact surfaces until I was happy with the fit. I used a punch that I tapped into the metal as a depth gauge.
You will definitely want to never get water in there with that aluminum and steel in that kind of close contact. I would think that bar could freeze hard in there in very short order. The better the fit, the easier it can seize. I don't know what lube would work best for those dissimilar metals.
Really cool!
I thought that in Canada you measured in millipeters!
Look forward to seeing part 2
Quote from: deadfall on August 01, 2015, 09:48:58 PM
You will definitely want to never get water in there with that aluminum and steel in that kind of close contact. I would think that bar could freeze hard in there in very short order. The better the fit, the easier it can seize. I don't know what lube would work best for those dissimilar metals.
I read all the cans I could find, I settled on Fluid Film, it's a thick spray that says it says where you put it, it repels water, and dirt. I was very liberal with it, and plan to re coat.
I did though not actually think about freezing water in there, so i'm going to really its sealed well by the bolts. But I think what will makes a difference is that I will actually make a cover of something that will go around the angle grinder cut to help keep water
Quote from: canadianwoodworks on August 01, 2015, 10:00:23 PM
I did though not actually think about freezing water in there, so i'm going to really its sealed well by the bolts. But I think what will makes a difference is that I will actually make a cover of something that will go around the angle grinder cut to help keep water
I was not talking about water freezing. I was talking about aluminum oxide and iron oxide and the witch's brew of whatever is created in the presence of water when those two dissimilar metals get wet and electrolysis kicks in. It will be its own battery of sorts if it is ever wet.
So I'm talking about seizing. Yes, you will need to have some way of sealing the cutoff joint and have some kind of roof or flash to not even let rain get near that joint. When that aluminum is making white stuff and the steel is making red stuff, your thousandth of an inch will fill up fast with whatever product is produced in the presence of moisture.
Even condensation could bite you. That's why I mentioned some kind of lube that would leave no room for any moisture on those surfaces. You might even make it part of regular maintenance to see it stays moving free and well lubed. Maybe even have some grease zirks and fill it with a marine grease.
Fluid film is good. That is a good point about dissimilar metals. It is common practice to put some sort of a barrier between dissimilar metals. When the fab shop bolted an aluminum box to the steel frame on our F550, they put this paper looking stuff in between it. When I would weld new steel decking into the 53' box trailers, I had to put that barrier in between where it bolts to the alum. side.
I would say another thing that would help besides keeping moisture out and keeping it well lubed would be to work it every so often on a regular basis. Basically, don't let it stay in one position for too long. Figure out how often you need to move it throughout the different seasons and go from there. Then it will just be another thing to add to your PM list. No matter how well you seal it, moisture will find it's way in, I'm sure of it. Condensation is something to keep in consideration.
Perhaps something like the NOALOX Anti-Oxidant paste electricians use on aluminum connections would help minimize the potential problem. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-NOALOX-4-oz-Anti-Oxidant-Compound-30-026/202276208 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-NOALOX-4-oz-Anti-Oxidant-Compound-30-026/202276208)
And you have to make a blade guard arm longer too.
Bimetal corrosion...dielectric grease works well in areas of steel vs aluminum as well...
Havent yet Mr. Piney videos don't play very good at home. Will watch tomorrow at work
Thanks
Might not be a bad idea to coat the "permanently bolted" parts with antisieze compound!
Neat project.
Great work.
Looking forward to second video.
Thanks for sharing! looking forward to the completion popcorn_smiley
That fluid film is some amazing stuff. It is not petroleum based, but rather lanolin based. The can says that it will never dry out. I bought a can for the first time this spring as a treatment for ringworm in our show steers. A five day treatment was all it took, and it smells pleasant also.
Have you given any thought to adding some kind of power assist to extend and retract the outboard section? Like maybe an acme threaded jackscrew ? In my case, I would leave it normal length and run normal blades until one of them monster logs showed up, then extend and mount the long blade. I don't think there would be any problem with bandwheel alignment..Corrosion and seizing may be a problem with the aluminum insert. If I do mine, I'll go with steel, but then I have welding equipment and a fair sized milling machine.. Lube...look into silicone grease, kinda pricey but never gets hard or dry, won't melt and sheds water..
Thanks for the video, you got me thinking...
Quote from: Peter Drouin on August 02, 2015, 07:43:37 AM
And you have to make a blade guard arm longer too.
Maybe. Maybe not. When set wide, the throat will be full of log, and you won't need to move it in close.
I like when my mill has a throat full of log lol
Quote from: 4x4American on August 02, 2015, 08:22:58 PM
I like when my mill had a throat full of log lol
:D :D :D ;D :D :D :D ;D ;D ;D
I like it when it clears its throat.
I watched it skeptically until 0:56 when your fitter friend showed his timmies.... I then knew he was a pro, and a good Canadian lad!
Great work!
Great Idea,I have enough work fighting 28" let alone 48"
:D.......looking forward to part 2
Sam
I'd think that a galvanic corrosion issue is going to be a constant concern with the moving parts destroying any mechanical separation (lubricant, paint, etc). You might look into adding some sacrificial anodes. I can remember years ago when a friend went out to use his aluminum boat. it had been turned upside down on saw horses for about a year. He had been working near it on some other project and had laid 3 steel flat washers on the boat near the stern. In the rather short time they had been there, they had corroded all the way through the aluminum. He had to have it patched.
I'll have to make some decisions about the aluminum contacting the steel, I did not know about the issues.
I have thought about making it move in an out at the flick of a switch, but no set plans, first get it cutting at extended width.
I just received my blade 195'' I should have about a 46'' throat. We have milled with the mill in it's stock position for an entire week since putting it back together with no issues.
Thanks for all the well wishes & suggestions!
Quote from: Jeff on August 05, 2015, 04:15:52 PM
I'd think that a galvanic corrosion issue is going to be a constant concern with the moving parts destroying any mechanical separation (lubricant, paint, etc). You might look into adding some sacrificial anodes. I can remember years ago when a friend went out to use his aluminum boat. it had been turned upside down on saw horses for about a year. He had been working near it on some other project and had laid 3 steel flat washers on the boat near the stern. In the rather short time they had been there, they had corroded all the way through the aluminum. He had to have it patched.
that's a good idea, you would have to run a ground wire from one of the thru bolts that goes thru the steel and aluminum and attach the other end of the ground to a anode, I know they sell them for boats , large zinks that are grounded throughout the boat , they corrode before anything else,
the only question I would have is that most zinks that I know of are in water.
will a zink work if it is in air?
that is really kool,, i have toyed with that idea before and havent gone any farther,,, but you have renewed my interest ,,, i think it would be awesome to mill that big ,,,, big tables come to mind ,,big money too,,, how did you come up with the 195 inch band ,, just what you measured , or you made it to fit a band that is readily available some measurements would be so helpfull ,, how far did you extend the end / band wheel,, and then how did you compensate for the sag on the end of the head , so that you cut level , is it like a quarter inch up ,,, thanks
jim
This is what you need...
http://www.passagemaker.com/articles/technical/power/galvanic-isolators-and-isolation-transformers/
(ebay ad deleted by Admin, please refer to forum rules about posting such ads)
Maybe I missed this in reading and it was answered, but how do you clamp the monster logs?
I would think a log that big might not need clamped.
Where would it go... So heavy.....
When I have a large one, I use chocks. The big problem is getting the second side square when using chocks.
I talked to woodmizer Canada, they told me the typical stock lengths they carry, the 195 was one of them. The piece of aluminum was 33'' which will slide out to add 16'' to the stock 28'' width to allow about 44'' total. I have not cut with it yet, so I will be dealing with potential sag. Once I move forward to the next step, right now it's bolted back to stock length operating just like it did.
Quote from: jmouton on August 06, 2015, 09:54:54 PM
that is really kool,, i have toyed with that idea before and havent gone any farther,,, but you have renewed my interest ,,, i think it would be awesome to mill that big ,,,, big tables come to mind ,,big money too,,, how did you come up with the 195 inch band ,, just what you measured , or you made it to fit a band that is readily available some measurements would be so helpfull ,, how far did you extend the end / band wheel,, and then how did you compensate for the sag on the end of the head , so that you cut level , is it like a quarter inch up ,,, thanks
jim
I'm willing to bet there will not be much more in the way of sag. I think the saw pulling, more than weight, takes up whatever slack there is to be had in the way of flex, and from there, I think you already have most of the sag at the stock reach and are near maximum. Any adjustment will probably be minor.
Have you come up with any new information?
Quote from: 4x4American on August 29, 2015, 09:19:02 AM
Have you come up with any new information?
I've received a 195'' long blade from Woodmizer, although this will work it really pushes the design to the maximum. So I decided to go with a 184'' long blade, which will give me about a 41'' total width of cut. The 184'' blade came in yesterday, I have not tried to put it on the mill yet, but plan to in the next few days.
I did decide to add 4 "set screws" 2 on the top side and 2 on the bottom side which clamp against the insert through the box steel to keep it exactly where it needs to be, along with the bolts that go through the box steel & insert.
I also did some motor work while the mill was down, took off the heads cleaned off all the carbon from the piston top & heads. Adjust valves and replaced all the gaskets needed for that operation.
It's back together and running great. I've milled about 3000 bdft my self with it bolted at its stock length.
Stay tuned!
Awesome!
I know you're pretty far along on your fabrication now, but this just dawned on me. What if, instead of using the aluminum bar to expand the head, you had a "riser block" fabricated, like what you can get for one of the old Craftsman shop bandsaws? Have plates welded to each end of the cross tube with alignment pins and bolt holes that keep the mill at the original throat size. Then have a riser (widening) block made with corresponding alignment pins, holes and bolt holes that could be added or removed as needed. It would require that you use something like an engine hoist to support the outboard band wheel when you add or remove the block, but it would eliminate any vagaries that you will encounter trying to get repeatable setups with a malleable metal bar supporting half of the head.
I'm rooting for ya. But I think you're going to run into a lot of issues with the method you've chosen to do this.
The riser block is certainly a way to go, I do like the idea. Fingers crossed I don't have an issues with the aluminum insert.
I think it is plenty strong, it is 1 5/8'' wide and 5 5/8'' tall solid, I have a few holes in it for bolts but that's it, I don't fell like it will bend in any direction.
Time will tell.
Got all my stock blades sharp today, hope to get a longer band on this week, get it bolted up at that width and cut some logs! I have a couple logs here in the 34'' to 40'' to give it a test with.
I like delaware jacks idea about the riser block, except the engine hoist part. Need to make it so that don't need extra equipment. So my idea if this doesnt work is to still have an insert piece that slides, doesnt have to be a perfect fit, and use it to slide it out and then be able to bolt on the riser block somehow. Maybe a two piece unit that fits over the insert. just have to be careful about the added weight.
I can report at least in the short term, a success! This was a 38'' wide cut in Walnut, with the 184'' long blades I now have a maximum cut of 41''-42''.
The motor power was no problem, of course a slower cut. I removed 2 bolts, slid out the extension drilled and installed 4 bolts to hold it at extended position, lot's of checking and checking and checking before I drilled. We got it basically bang on level to the bed.
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xfa1/t51.2885-15/e35/11875550_1643665485850765_601728540_n.jpg)
smiley_thumbsup smiley_thumbsup
its great to see a plan come together.
OMG...I've been waiting in suspense for weeks...that's AWESOME!!! Thank you soon much for keeping us in the loop!!! If I may, what width and thickness blade?
That is AWESOME! And walnut no less!! Looks like a nice flat cut.
Way to go! 8)
Paul, I thought you were crazy for trying this but you pulled it off. In spades! You are still my hero!
I'm sure I'll have lots of questions...... but right now I'm mesmerized looking at 38" wide walnut on an LT40. ;D
I'll get a video together in about a week, this was basically a test, it was a wide cut but not an entire log length 8' 10' 12' at a 36" + cut, but I don't think it will be an issue.
I have some logs set aside for which I first thought about doing this, so soon I'll get to them.
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions and following along.
8) 8) 8)
Quote from: bkaimwood on September 04, 2015, 08:11:16 PM
OMG...I've been waiting in suspense for weeks...that's AWESOME!!! Thank you soon much for keeping us in the loop!!! If I may, what width and thickness blade?
The blade is 184" long, 0.45 1 1/4''
I finally found the time to cut and film. This is a 32-36'' diameter Walnut log which I was able to cut full width on this LT-40 which I cut in half to extend the maximum width of cut to over 42''. I just uploaded a video I put together showing us milling up this log into some beautiful slabs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1h-hva2ofos (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1h-hva2ofos)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/38857/P1060083.JPG)
Congratulations on an amazing and successful modification. smiley_thumbsup smiley_thumbsup
Impressed with your success 8) 8)
Awesome project, glad it worked so well!
smiley_thumbsup
Congratulations and Thanks for posting the video! smiley_thumbsup smiley_thumbsup
Congrats on your success! I thought you had lost your mind but as usual you prevailed. That 24 HP Onan with 5000 hours on it is impressive. Thanks for taking the time to create this video.
Canadianwoodworks, well done! You have engineered the transition from narrow to wide a relatively simple procedure. Bravo!
Nice video... Congrats!!
Maybe someday this could be a wood-mizer option! :)
I was looking forwarded to the video. But I can't do the plugin on my phone. :(
Is there a YouTube link?
Quote from: Jeff on October 17, 2015, 05:48:27 PM
Maybe someday this could be a wood-mizer option! :)
I agree, it might make you rich and famous too!
Thanks for sharing the video. Would be a nice option, but the thought of cutting my mill in half is scary.
WOW!! Mighty clever guy you are!
Quote from: Kingmt on October 18, 2015, 08:00:08 AM
Is there a YouTube link?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1h-hva2ofos
As a mass produced option, the stretch zone could be made to operate like a big heavy duty drawer glide. A place to use more of those cam followers. I think W-M could do it at a cost that would make it a very desirable option. I would love to have that capability when that occasional big log is there for the sawing. I guess I'm saying that I would pay to not have to split another big log with a chainsaw, or saw a notch to clear a swell butt.
I see myself just pulling off the blade, pulling a spring loaded locking pin, stretching the saw, and hearing that locking pin drop in to lock it in the 'wide' position. Then I put on the long blade, crank the tension, and go back to sawing.
Thanks for doing that R&D, canadianwoodworks. I hope someone sends you a check.
Quote from: deadfall on October 18, 2015, 10:03:27 AM
Thanks for doing that R&D, canadianwoodworks. I hope someone sends you a check.
I won't hold my breath, but maybe my videos can help some one else take the leap. Thanks everyone for the comments!
Thanks for the idea and the video. I have been wanting the ability to do wider cuts and this may be the answer for me.
Nice job. I think you done a good thing there and it will serve you well.
Not sure how I missed this one for so long, I reckon I thought it was the same ole hit the back stop post, Wow, you did a fantastic number on the mill! thanks for sharing your ideas and efforts in recording the process.
This is the coolest mod I've seen done yet. You did a hell of a job. 8) I would love that option on mine right now I have a 36" diameter walnut that I'd like to slab through and through.
Quote from: deadfall on October 18, 2015, 10:03:27 AM
I see myself just pulling off the blade, pulling a spring loaded locking pin, stretching the saw, and hearing that locking pin drop in to lock it in the 'wide' position. Then I put on the long blade, crank the tension, and go back to sawing. I can see this working nicely, and maybe have some sort of a screw type brake to take up the slack and lock it in real tight.
Thanks for doing that R&D, canadianwoodworks. I hope someone sends you a check. X2
Very interesting. I have a 40 I really want to slab. I have no idea how I'd even get it on my mill if I did cut it in half. I'd probably just build the mill around it.
This would be a good competitive edge for WM since it can obviously only be done on a cantilever mill!
Fantastic modification and very nice video.
nice job. Maybe you've answered this, but are going to extend the blade guard on the top? Would hate to see a band fly out of there. Also, are you going to file for a patent? :). Thanks for sharing.
Quote from: coppolajc10 on October 20, 2015, 06:03:45 PM
nice job. Maybe you've answered this, but are going to extend the blade guard on the top? Would hate to see a band fly out of there. Also, are you going to file for a patent? :). Thanks for sharing.
I think I will do something with the upper center guard, although I'm amazed how many people mill with out even the covers over the wheels. I don't believe in keeping something to my self, thus why I would post a video like this. I'd rather help out the next guy trying get along in life.
Thanks for watching!
Great job!
It has me thinking. i have the same mill.
Quote from: canadianwoodworks on October 20, 2015, 09:51:09 PM
I don't believe in keeping something to my self, thus why I would post a video like this. I'd rather help out the next guy trying get along in life.
IMO, a patent would not keep anything to yourself except the money from licensing it to a manufacturer. Surely you believe in making money for yourself, Just saying :) ... In fact, you could get a patent and decide to never enforce it, or enforce it only with companies like WM for example, your choice as the patent owner. But, judging from the responses here, this improvement may have big monetary potential, and only from your ingenuity and reducing it to practice (as far as we know). Wish you the best either way, and again nice job!
It takes confidence to cut your mill head in half for sure. Good Job! Find your market for the big slab tables and you can afford more equipment!
coppolajc10 nailed it, I think you'd be foolish not to get a patent!
If'n ya know how much work (and expense) there is to getting a patent, then might not call it foolish to not try. No offense intended.
Considerable searching for possible claims in other patents, writing up the details as to why this invention is not covered by such claims, and meeting the filing deadlines.
Have been there, and wouldn't do it again.
I could be wrong, as I don't know if you've been through it.
After what he showed, who is to say, a mod that needs experience for sure, so anyone who dabbles in fab work could do it, not sure how a patent would work for the money invested, but a good mod for sure. Lots of fitting going on behind the scenes keeping things tight and aligned.
Very impressive mod. Good video too!
Very good point you raise, but after what he did a little bit of political work doesn't seem like much but then again I've never tried it! Definitely a good mod and I can't knock op either way in terms of getting a patent. I am interested to see what happens between the dissimilar metals over the course of time.
Quote from: 4x4American on October 22, 2015, 10:34:18 PMI am interested to see what happens between the dissimilar metals over the course of time.
Since there is no current flow there should not be a problem, but I would be tempted to grease the joint to repel moisture as a precaution. Dielectric vs Conductive Grease (http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm)
I found a pair of Walnut trees to really give this modification a good test. I have a can of fluid film on hand every time I use it extended, I give it a good spray with oil each time. So far I have not noticed any issues with the metals reacting.
This Walnut is is 35'' at breast height.
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xap1/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/10865103_183919078613237_780000388_n.jpg)
Quote from: Magicman on October 23, 2015, 09:54:58 AM
Quote from: 4x4American on October 22, 2015, 10:34:18 PMI am interested to see what happens between the dissimilar metals over the course of time.
Since there is no current flow there should not be a problem, but I would be tempted to grease the joint to repel moisture as a precaution. Dielectric vs Conductive Grease (http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm)
Dissimilar metals will a current flow . I kinda make it's own battery.
True to a point, but in this instance it should not be a killer.
Quote from: canadianwoodworks on October 23, 2015, 08:17:43 PM
I found a pair of Walnut trees to really give this modification a good test. I have a can of fluid film on hand every time I use it extended, I give it a good spray with oil each time. So far I have not noticed any issues with the metals reacting.
This Walnut is is 35'' at breast height.
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xap1/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/10865103_183919078613237_780000388_n.jpg)
We'll need 2 videos: one when you cut that monster down, and a second when you mill it. What a beautiful walnut!
x2 on the videos!
Fluid Film is great stuff I use it frequently.
Canadianwoodworks.
Some were talking about your mill extension in another thread lately. And i was wondering how the extension has fared to this day?
Any corrosion with aluminium to steel electrolysis?
Any kind of other problem?
Thanks.
Max.
100% the best thing i've done to this sawmill, cutting with it in extended mode is a dream, and being able to go back to stock size is great, as I do cut a good amount of smaller material 6'' wide and beams.
I've not noticed anything with the steel on aluminium issue brought up here, it easily slides in or out. I do apply fluid film about once a month... ok ok maybe every 3 months...LOL
Quote from: Satamax on October 22, 2017, 05:10:23 PM
Canadianwoodworks.
Some were talking about your mill extension in another thread lately. And i was wondering how the extension has fared to this day?
Any corrosion with aluminium to steel electrolysis?
Any kind of other problem?
Thanks.
Max.
Cool, good to know.
I can't do that on mine. Since i have a totally different beast. Tho, with nearly a 5' throat, i'm not too worried. But since i had asked about the electrolysis issue before. It was a good time to ask again. And the other guys know it's an option.
Thanks again for replying.
I just now watched your vids. That was a great mod man, A++ on execution! I want to do this to my mill now, but first I'll have to get an Lt70 so I can also run the wide, thick bands for those big cuts!
Tremendous mod! First time I've run across this thread. Thanks for taking the time to make the videos and answer all the questions. I would've been pretty sure that the extension would result in wavy cuts. Glad to hear it doesn't.
That sure is one sweet job you did there. Wow, simply wow.
Very nice modification to a single post mill. Wish I could do it to my two post Turner Mills mill.
Beautiful walnut log you were sawing also.
LEON
Quote from: canadianwoodworks on August 05, 2015, 09:27:59 PM
I'll have to make some decisions about the aluminum contacting the steel, I did not know about the issues.
I have thought about making it move in an out at the flick of a switch, but no set plans, first get it cutting at extended width.
I just received my blade 195'' I should have about a 46'' throat. We have milled with the mill in it's stock position for an entire week since putting it back together with no issues.
Thanks for all the well wishes & suggestions!
in the aviation industry, when dealing with dissimilar metal contact (steel to alum, steel to mag, mag to alum) 2 things we use, 2 part epoxy primer and a 2 part sulphur based, petroleum resistant rubber, called pro seal, or 1422 B 1/2 or 870 B 1/2 for their mil prf number. the pro seal isn't cheap, about $75 a qt, but a little goes a LONG way.
put 2-3 coatings of epoxy primer, allowing each coat to dry completely, then apply a coating of pro seal, using a sealant roller, or take a cheap paint roller, remove the plastic wheels for the roller brush, and replace with a 2" wood dowel, or preferably some kind of solid round plastic. let the sealant cure completely. if not, installing it wet will cause the insert beam to require your tractor to pull it out. if you are interested in the locating those 2 metal prep items, let me know, and will find a link with them. i think sky geek and aircraft spruce both sell those 2 items.