More SYP Questions

[homesteader1972]

Hello All,
I need a little input. I have a prospective job to cut some SYP. I'll Look at it next week, but it sounds like maybe 6-8mbf. The logs are mostly debarked as they had plans to use them for a log cabin, but are a couple of years old. My mill is an antique (1988) LT40hd with a 20hp engine. I had some difficulty with SYP about a year ago, half frozen and small knotty logs gave some wavy cuts. The logs should be in the 20" range, 8, 12 and 14' lengths. So my questions are, what will older pine logs cut like? Will the be abrasive or still likely have some moisture? Lots of lube? What blade profile should I use. I normally cut with 9deg, and use 4deg on hickory and such. Would using a 4deg with my smaller engine be wise to cut the knots w/o waves? Any more input is aprreciated.

Thanks much.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Only SYP i've sawn are antique beams, but a lot of them. Customer said about 150 yr old.   4° WM 1-1/4" bands, 045", Cascade in water full on usually.  Only problems were on a few beams which looked almost like candlesticks, the wax was so heavy.  In those cases just went very slow through those portions, watching the kerf.   Problem with going too fast was buildup which was kept under control by going slow.

[WDH]

Older SYP should saw easy with less pitch.  Down here, if a couple of years old, they would probably be about rotten. 

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

  Down here, if a couple of years old, they would probably be about rotten.

Yes. 

[Magicman]

I prefer to saw SYP after it has "aged" a bit and the bark has slipped.  10° blades with may normal setting on blade lube.

[drobertson]

A couple of years old could be a good thing or a bad thing.  Since the bark is off, and providing they stored them up, off the ground for drying, then you could very well have a great job.   The pitch can vary on logs, some dried out ones I've seen saw beautifully, while other pitch up.  From what I've noticed the pitch potential will be obvious by the seemly wide dark growth rings on the face of the cant.  Partial frozen is surely a pain.  In any case run your coolant and move as fast as possible keeping the desired flatness.   

[nativewolf]

my $0.02:

Not being a sawyer of any skill but a decent forester this is what I'd ask:

What type of SYP..it is a bit like saying I'm going to saw some hardwood.  Is it longleaf pine or loblolly or shortleaf?

How many growth rings/inch?  The spring (sap wood) growth has very little resin but the summer wood (the darker side of the ring) is going to have resins.  If it is plantation grown loblolly pine it might be a walk int he park but ...low lumber quality.  If it is longleaf pine you could have some neat wood but it will be very heavy, almost as heavy as young oak lumber.   You'll see wider summer growth rings and therefore more resin.  This is what gives heartpine the distinctive look that it has, it is not "heart wood" so much as it is just longleaf pine.

Not hard to figure out what type of wood really, do an end cut, get a magnifying glass and compare to:

http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/loblolly-pine/
http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/longleaf-pine/

of course it could be slash pine (not my favorite) or shortleaf pine (very nice) or even virginia pine (quite trashy frankly).

In terms of working the longleaf pine lumber is a dream but it is tough.  If you are homesteading the boards are just heavier and you'll need to take that into account.  Loblolly is serviceable- but the plantation grown stuff can grow so fast it is difficult to mill good lumber, at least wood that dries well.   Shortleaf pine is nice (usually slower growing so growth rings are tighter and therefore it dries nicely, less twist).  My free $0.02.