Greetings, How far in from the Blade Guides are the Log Stops?
I haven't welded mine in place yet.
Thank you
Richard
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34022/Mill_stops_1.JPG)
I'll be able to put in shorter stops.
If you put them in line with your guide roller or guide blocks it will prevent a unfortunate accident of sawing into back stop.
Quote from: redbeard on March 27, 2016, 12:46:02 AM
If you put them in line with your guide roller or guide blocks it will prevent a unfortunate accident of sawing into back stop.
The only problem is your blade teeth should be riding in front of your guides - ready and waiting to eat your stops :o
Easy fix. Put a gaurd in front of the roller that clears the blade that hits the dog if it's to high.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dog_stopper~1.JPG)
I'm guessing I worded my question incorrectly, from the answers I'm getting.
Thank you
I'll eyeball measure and weld the stop,[where they should be] if I have them too far in or out I'll grind them off and do it again.
They should be "just" inboard of the stationary blade guide roller.
When you get you log squared up into a cant and it is setting against your stops you want the cant to not interfere with any portion of that outboard guide. A different way of saying it- inside face of your stops just inside (vertically) of the inner most part of the band guide.
If your log is really big you may have to use wedges to keep it in place until you can raise your stops.
edit - looking again at your pictures your band wheel might stick out-inside of your guide. That makes it a choice. How often do you see yourself making a deep cut to where your band wheel might get hit. You could always use blocks to move your cant over for deep cuts.
Thanks guys, those things you mentioned are what I had on mind. I'll scratch my head and look at it a bit more.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34022/mill_stops_2.JPG)
I don't know how often I'll be opening a big log, but if I were to try Quarter Sawing a large one I would need the stop log to clear the band wheel as you mentioned also.
Tacked the Stops on. They need to be a little father in.
How much clearance do you think they should be between the side of the Cant and the Roller Guide.
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Magic Man, Got the guides on and guiding. Thank You
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(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34022/mill_stops_3.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34022/mill_stops_4.JPG)
Question: Would you cut and move the stops or use a wood spacer to move keep the cant away from the guide?
Quote from: valley ranch on March 28, 2016, 01:44:44 AM
Question: Would you cut and move the stops or use a wood spacer to move keep the cant away from the guide?
You need to move the stops. The purpose of the stops is to set up a square cut after your opening cut. You need to be able to be up against it when you cut the slab off the new side of the log.
For a temporary measure, just place a sticker (1x1) between the cant and the stops!
When you get a break in sawing, move the stops in about an inch!
Quote from: valley ranch on March 28, 2016, 01:34:42 AMMagic Man, Got the guides on and guiding. Thank You
It was my pleasure to make a contribution to your sawmill build. smiley_thumbsup
Looking at your pictures this is what I would do.
Roll your carriage over a bunk. Using a framing square or a squared up scrap of plywood, figure out what sticks inwards the most and set the inside of your log stops 1/4" inward from that.
You have a few bolts sticking out that could be cut off or shortened if this would help you get more width.
Assuming that the log stops are on the same side as the sawdust discharge - if your frame flexes under load 1/4" might not be enough, as the blade will rack your frame toward the cant - trial and error.
Hex set screws(bolts) could be used to gain additional width vs. hex cap bolts that you are using.
Thanks, I'll do that, I'll go on to make the Dogs on the and come back and move these in. I have yet to raise the Bunks so the final cut can be about 1". The stops and dogs will have to be done like: I can't picture in my mind yet.
This is really fun!
I know this is a very old thread, but I am now facing the same kind of question.
First, has anyone done a log stop that is 4" square tube with 6" of hardwood jammed down into it for the top of the stop? I was thinking this would still be strong enough with oak to withstand the log weight and stuff, but would keep me from sawing through or into the stop.
Second, I do plan on using the log stop blocker method posted by @Kbeitz (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=29553) above. :) Seems like such a cool solution.
Would it be safe to assume that the log stop must be just back toward the outside from the inside edge of the fixed blade roller or am I doing this wrong and it needs to be 1/4" or so to the inside so the roller has room to pass by the log and over the stops?
I sure hope this makes sense.
I'm in the build phase still on this so just trying to gather information and do not have a pic of my setup yet.
Thanks for any thoughts. I did read through the other posts and this was still not fully clear so sorry if someone else had the answer and I missed it. :)
Quote from: DMcCoy on March 28, 2016, 08:25:29 AM
Roll your carriage over a bunk. Using a framing square or a squared up scrap of plywood, figure out what sticks inwards the most and set the inside of your log stops 1/4" inward from that.
I just saw this, I think it does answer my question. I'll try it once I get the bunks in place. I still need to fab them.
I think you want your stops in quite a way from where your guides are, 6" or more. Logs are rarely ever perfectly straight. If you have your stops directly in line you need the log to not sweep outside the backstop line, or have a trimmed limb, or a fragment of wood from digger grapple or whatever etc lying outside that line. Also need them high enough to reach the widest part of the log, which isn't necessary (otherwise again, some log lies outside that line).
Bringing them inboard doesn't reduce the size of log the mill will take, you can always lower them. If you've got a 40" log on the bed you're not going to have the stops up at 20" high, that is impractical for all sorts of reasons including needing to turn the log earlier than otherwise, if plain sawing or slabbing. Usually I have my stops sitting down at about 10" max, and the tip of them touches between say 7-8 o'clock of the log looking at its face. If you need to shift it over further, go lower on the stops.
I went dead below my guides first round and found out it was a mistake the first day I got sawing. The pockets are still there, I thought no harm in leaving them in case they are ever needed, and just added new pockets about 6" further in. I don't recall ever using them.