Author Topic: Want to buy a 1 hander arborist saw (Read 5139 times)

Nate Surveyor · « **on:** March 15, 2008, 09:24:11 PM »

For topping trees.

I want light weight.

High Power.

I have been a Stihl fan in the past, but I want a special saw. One that can make quick work in a tree top.

I know that technology changes. Best saw one yr may be an Echo, then next yr a Husky, then another yr some other brand.

I want to know who is in the lead right now.
My local dealer is Husky and Stihl, so that is sort of better.

Any advice would be appreciated.

I have a Stihl 018 right now, that lives on the 4-wheeler. I cut logs out of the road, and do alot of brush trimming with it. It has a NO WRENCH chain tensioning, and adjustment system, and that would be handy in a tree top, but I don't think any of the serious arborist saws have that right now.

Thanks,

Nate

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #1 on:** March 16, 2008, 01:42:40 AM »

I have a Stihl 020T, which has been replaced with the MS200T. I gon't think you could go wrong with this saw. Great power for a small saw and well balanced. Most tree guys I know have been using these saws for many years now. While no saw is a "one-hander", people often do use them that way, with increased risk.

Dave

snowman · « **Reply #2 on:** March 16, 2008, 10:41:51 AM »

When I was a kid I worked with this old swede in his 60s, he bumped knots in the landing.He ran one of those Homelites that weighed like 40 lbs with one hand, the other he kept in the pocket of his overalls. The guys arms looked like rolls of twisted rope. He bummed a chew off me once and instead of the little pinch id take, he pulled out his lower lip and dumped half my can of copenhagen ito this bottomless pit. Anyway my point is you don't need a smaller saw you just need bigger muscles.

asy · « **Reply #3 on:** March 16, 2008, 11:05:00 AM »

I have a little TANAKA Arborist saw.

It's name is "Baby-saw", well, that's what we call it anyway.

I love it. It's light, but good power, and really easy to start, which, for me is paramount as I can't start a 'normal' chainsaw. (Back injury).

I can climb into a tree with this one, and start it up there, it's so easy.

Have a look at it, and include it in your deliberations, you won't be sorry.

asy

Ax- man · « **Reply #4 on:** March 16, 2008, 11:52:12 AM »

Quote from: Nate Surveyor on March 15, 2008, 09:24:11 PM

For topping trees.

I want light weight.

High Power.

I have been a Stihl fan in the past, but I want a special saw. One that can make quick work in a tree top.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Nate

The MS 200 T dominates this catagory when it comes to a light weight chainsaw for cutting up in the top of a tree.

It will meet all your requirements and then some.

They are pricey saws though. I haven't priced one recently. They were around $ 500 to $530. Latest quotes have been over $ 600 or that is what I have heard anyway.

Some of these saws had carb troubles using the cheaper Zama carbs knock offs from China instead of the ones from Japan. I think that problem has been solved, not sure. I am a Walbro fan myself. I personally have never had a problem with a carb in a MS 200 T.

Next in line for a top handle saw is the Husky 338. Echo has a top handled saw, don't know any model numbers but has a reputation to be rock solid but is underpowered if compared to the Sthil and Husky saws.

As a climbing arborist my recommendation for up in the tree is the rear handled model MS 200 T, for good saw control and little more reach than the top- handle model and is a little more comfortable to run. The top handle model is better suited for working out of a bucket truck. This is just a personal opinion only. Operating a top handle with one hand up in a tree is a very debateable subject and subjective to the skills of the person operating the saw. A top handle or the one handed version saw still should be operated with both hands on the saw for good saw control except for those occasional cuts that do require one handing and the proper way to do it. I hope I am not sounding too preachy but many bad disabling accidents have occured from these saws while being operated carelessly and improperly up in the tops of trees.

Larry

Nate Surveyor · « **Reply #5 on:** March 17, 2008, 09:09:21 AM »

Larry, you are 100% correct.

I have been using a non top handle saw, one handed for several yrs.

Dangerous, yeah, but get's 'er done!

Thanks for the tip & Advice.

Nate

Kevin · « **Reply #6 on:** March 17, 2008, 09:57:11 PM »

Nate;
Nothing personal but you better sign yourself up for a chainsaw safety course.
I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

sawguy21 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 17, 2008, 10:41:50 PM »

I try to steer people away from the top handle saws unless they have received proper training, that style is designed for the professional aborist.There is absolutely no control if it pinches or kicks back with one hand operation.I second Kevin's suggestion.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #8 on:** March 18, 2008, 09:30:56 PM »

Old arborist trick, if you can't use both hands on your climbing saw, break out thy zubat!

Dave

rebocardo · « **Reply #9 on:** March 18, 2008, 10:22:35 PM »

Anyone ever see someone use a saw, one handed, to the side of a tree and cut their flipline by accident from the kickback?

letsgetitracing · « **Reply #10 on:** March 18, 2008, 11:16:08 PM »

i just bought a 338xp today very nice saw but i put a 12 inch bar on it to balance it out better lots of power very pricy but rock and roll saw

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #11 on:** March 18, 2008, 11:29:18 PM »

Quote from: rebocardo on March 18, 2008, 10:22:35 PM

Anyone ever see someone use a saw, one handed, to the side of a tree and cut their flipline by accident from the kickback?

No, and I hope I never do!

Dave

sawguy21 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 19, 2008, 04:03:49 PM »

That is why steel core flip lines (a.k.a scare straps) should always be used. I don't want to see that happen either.

Kevin · « **Reply #13 on:** March 19, 2008, 05:30:35 PM »

You shouldn't use a steel core near power but you can always have and should have a separate safety line that you can rappel back to the ground on.
The safety line can also be used in a rescue or recovery operation.

rebocardo · « **Reply #14 on:** March 20, 2008, 03:36:18 AM »

> but you can always have and should have a separate safety line that you can
> rappel back to the ground on.

I agree. My thing is when climbing a rotted tree to please run a safety line between two other trees so if it falls you do not go down with it.

> The safety line can also be used in a rescue or recovery operation.

I have said the same thing. Who is going to climb 100 feet up a tree to rescue you when most city ladder trucks can't reach that high?

I am disappointed trying to find good climbers to work with me, so I think I might make the investment and start climbing myself. One guy that "passed" a class did not know how to make a proper knot, so I opened his book, read the one he could not do, and showed him how

They should build some kind of detector that will self-destruct when someone tries to use pole equipment to climb a tree.

I did have a guy use one of my Husky 365s in a tree with the 20" bar, strong guy, and though he did use both hands

Don P · « **Reply #15 on:** March 20, 2008, 07:00:26 AM »

Just to add more to think about, we got word last night that a man in the neighborhood is back home and beginning therapy, they did get his hand back on. Be careful.

sawdust · « **Reply #16 on:** March 20, 2008, 08:43:45 AM »

last week we picked up a lineman that did 20' head first off a pole. Never did figure out what he did wrong and I doubt he will ever be able to tell anyone.
I think of some of the things I have done in the past... sometimes I get to learn from others mistakes.

Please be careful 10 min of convenience could be paid for by 50 years of Dang.

sawdust

Bill · « **Reply #17 on:** March 21, 2008, 03:49:58 PM »

FWIW

I've been real happy w/ an 019t. Cuts up bigger wood than it should ( I don't tell it that it's a small saw

) with no pain.

That said - I respect - na fear kickback and will always use two hands - I kinda think of kickback as a permanent career change and use this saw with extra extra care.

Good Luck

Kevin · « **Reply #18 on:** March 21, 2008, 06:35:32 PM »

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Author Topic: Want to buy a 1 hander arborist saw (Read 5139 times)

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