Removing bark

[kkcomp]

So I got some logs that a neighbor wanted removed. I was looking for a de-barker when my wife gave me an idea. Has any tried and of the wood carving blades for an angle grinder? I see ones that look like a chain saw, some with 5 or 6 blades and ones with bunches of teeth. I doubt I am the first to think of this so maybe someone can tell me if it is worth the money.

[Don P]

If you hooked it up as a mudsaw just ahead of the sawblade on a mill, maybe. By hand a drawknife or spud is going to be a whole lot faster. This will have to grind though heavy bark rather than peeling or knocking it off. If you do go the handheld route definitely use the guard and heavy gloves and a grinder with a deadman style switch. if it gets away from you, you want it off. My wife was up in the workbasket using one to detail a log wall when it got away from her, it was locked on. That thing chased her around the basket till I could get to the drop cord plug.

[Iwawoodwork]

I use a small pick that has a flat blade (sharpened) on one end and the pick point on the other, works good for dead tree bark removal also have an adze shaped grub hoe that i sharpened and occasionally use plus a smaller (about 2lb) axe I use. This is for mainly Doug fir bark and the trees have been down for over a year.   I would not use the angle grinder, just use one of my chain saws and a dull chain knowing I would have to sharpen it anyway. I generally do not bark my logs until they are on the deck ready to roll on the saw or after they are on the saw and ready to cut. 
I am just a hobby sawyer so not worried about high production, 

[Larry]

Has any tried and of the wood carving blades for an angle grinder?

I do some carving and have all the different styles of blades for a right angle grinder.  I don't think any will work well with a sawmill.  The one that uses chainsaw chains will dull quite fast in bark.  The carbide ones don't take a big enough bite to remove much bark.  I don't think a right angle grinder will last long either working as a de-barker.

I have tried them out to remove bark on live edge slabs.  A draw knife is lots faster, and quiet!  They work great for sculpting on the slab ends or to shape after the bark is gone.

[Brad_bb]

Although I own an Arbortech Turbo plane disc on a dedicated grinder, I wouldn't use it for de-barking.  When you hit stones and dirt in the bark, you're going to damage the tuboplane cutters.  I need it for carving/shaping.  For de-barking,  I use a spud.  I think I originally bought one from northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company.  It looks just like the Timber Tuff bark spud.  Looks like northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company doesn't sell it anymore, but Walmart and a few other places have it online.  

My handle broke at one point, and I made a new Ash handle that is twice as long and it's much better in my opinion.

[ZbigniewP]

Hi,

I'm new here but want to share my experinces.

I always mill the log first and debark manually the slabs or boards. This is so much easier than debarking on log!

But to do that I have to mill the log with bark on it. So I have to take down the tree in winter , mild frost so the ground if frosen and preferably with snow (no mud!). Also the wood is not too deep frosen as it may crack eventually (pine). Then load it up on the carrier without dragging on the ground. Yea, we can have a fresh clean logs - every mill will appreciate for the saw preservation;-) and better result...

cheers

[caveman]

On pine logs, when the bark begins to slip, we'll often score the bark the length of the log and then knock it off with a long-handled scraper.  This seems faster than having to clean up the bark under the mill that falls off of the log during turning.

[doc henderson]

I had a walnut stump that I cut into charcuterie blanks.  that bark is really stuck on.  almost an inch thick.  have to slice it off with a draw knife.  no separation.

[KenMac]

I bought a flat spade at a discount store that works really good if the bark is already somewhat loose. I don't debark logs with tight bark since I have a debarker on the mill. I definitely use that debarker. The spade is short handled and only about 8" wide so it's easy to handle.

[doc henderson]

some of the pine, if you give it a roll off the forks, it comes off like a roll of toilet paper.

[Crusarius]

I have been using a 1/2" wood chisel to strip the walnut bark off my live edge boards. I found I like the live edge look but hat the bark left on. Naturally when these trees were dropped, the bark was on tight and refused to loosen. So I try to get the chisel under the bark and pop it off but if it doesn't pop it off I end up using the chisel to remove it little by little. It is time consuming and really gives your arm a great workout but, in the end, looks nice and no bark.

[doc henderson]

 

 

upper L bark has got a little loose after two years.  my wife likes it so I will glue it back on.

[rjwoelk]

Track shovel has a curve to it to follow the curve of the log.
That reminds me I need a handle for it .

[Walnut Beast]

I have been using a 1/2" wood chisel to strip the walnut bark off my live edge boards. I found I like the live edge look but hat the bark left on. Naturally when these trees were dropped, the bark was on tight and refused to loosen. So I try to get the chisel under the bark and pop it off but if it doesn't pop it off I end up using the chisel to remove it little by little. It is time consuming and really gives your arm a great workout but, in the end, looks nice and no bark.

Save yourself all the troubles next time . On walnut the absolute easiest way to take the bark off is when you saw it into boards and pry the end up and grab it and the whole piece strips right off. 

[Crusarius]

Thanks walnut beast. I will try that next time. my logs have been sitting in that pile for at least 3 years. Not sure if that matters or not. But now that I know I like live edge but hate leaving the bark on I will peel the bark on everything.

[doc henderson]

Crusarius, your bark may fall off the log setting that long.  the boards I made from the stump do not pry or even peel off.  I am cutting to different layers until I cut through to the junction of the wood and bark (cambium).  It must have been cut in winter when the cambium is not active and dense.  I even bought an air cylinder and valve to make a clamp to hold boards for peeling bark with a draw knife.  I put the bevel down to help follow the irregular curves of the live edge.

[Crusarius]

I think it was in the fall time when it fell over the guys driveway. Definitey some stubborn bark. still not showing signs of coming off.

Unfortunately, I just took the battery from the sawmill and put it in the UTV for plowing. Not sure if I will do anymore milling this year. We will see.

[kelLOGg]

Ok, this is bark and sometimes I need to remove some for mulching ;D, but I have no bucket attachments for the tractor. Got ideas for how to do it?



 

[Don P]

I push that into the gulley, get the truck out and go to the big mill down the road with a tub grinder  .