Question on stacking lumber for drying

[D6c]

My questing is, as you sticker your lumber and have some bowed boards, do you have a preference on which side up you lay them?

I've been putting them all with the bow up (high in the middle), thinking they would be more likely to flatten that way as opposed to having the ends up.
Any thoughts on whether it makes a difference, or do you even pay attention to how they lay?

[Jim_Rogers]

I believe the kiln drier's handbook says to stack lumber center of the tree up.

But I could be wrong.

Jim Rogers

[beenthere]

Assume not talking about cup here. 

If bow, think D6c has the right approach. In the end, the weight of the pile above the bowed boards will be the key, and praying it will straighten the bow out of the boards might help too. 

[YellowHammer]

I stack mine "opposite spoon" (I don't know what to call it) but the bow of each layer is stacked opposite to limit "sympathetic spooning" or "Pringleing" like the potato chips.  So I stack my layers like ()()() as opposed to (((((( or ))))).   Then put lots of weight on them, either other packs of wood or concrete or something.  Press them flat like pressing a flower in a book.  Make sure your stickers are lined up neatly or you will get "kinking" or "zig zag" which is almost impossible to plane out.  Sorry for all the technical terms. 

[Larry]

Leave it to YH, we have a new term...."opposite spoon".   I expect a youtube on this method.

I do the same way, but I called it stacking bananas.  I do try to position the bananas.  After I get two flat layers I'll put on bananas and try to keep them in the bottom third of the stack so they have plenty of weight on them.

[D6c]

I stack mine "opposite spoon" (I don't know what to call it) but the bow of each layer is stacked opposite to limit "sympathetic spooning" or "Pringleing" like the potato chips.  So I stack my layers like ()()() as opposed to (((((( or ))))).   Then put lots of weight on them, either other packs of wood or concrete or something.  Press them flat like pressing a flower in a book.  Make sure your stickers are lined up neatly or you will get "kinking" or "zig zag" which is almost impossible to plane out.  Sorry for all the technical terms.  

That's what I was wondering about but couldn't think of the right terminology.
I began thinking about it ⅔ through a stack and wondered if I was creating "sympathetic spooning" as you call it.

[YellowHammer]

I have found that out makes a noticeable difference when stacking green wood, the greener the better.  As it dries out it becomes less effective.

I noticed that when I would stack lots or wood with the same bow shape, like Pringles, the stressed boards would overpower the neutral boards and cause them to Pringle to the same shape.  So this puts flattening loads on the bowed boards but also protects the neutral and straight boards.

It makes a very significant difference when air drying thick 8/4 wood, especially slabs.    

[Patrick NC]

Up until now I haven't stacked any lumber for drying. Sold everything green.  My plan has changed somewhat now so this is great information for a newbie like me.

[Canadiana]

If it's important for them to be straight, I use dunnage and wratchet strap them snug. If it's not done this way they're never straighter later but usually I can just live with a little twist

[Ianab]

have found that out makes a noticeable difference when stacking green wood, the greener the better.  As it dries out it becomes less effective

This. 

You have some chance of persuading a bowed green board to stay flat as it dries. It might still have some "spring" and not be prefect. But once a board is dried in a bow (whether it had one to start with or not), it will want to spring back into that shape for ever. Same as poor stacking can create a bow, and once it's set in place, it's there for good. 

[jpassardi]

This is a positive property of wood if you're making wagon wheels, straight lumber - not so much...