Folks, I am new to forum. I have a 044 Stihl and it has been lightly used until yesterday. I was cutting down florida gum trees and trying to get them cut as low to the ground as I could get. Saw worked hard and I noticed smoking coming from the the top end after it stalled on me a few times. So i let it cool off for approx 15 min and tried to start and will not crank over. Actually feels like it is not getting any compression. Will do a compression test tomorrow. But hoping to get a few tips on what I might be facing. Thanx.....
No compression doesn't sound good. Compression test will give you a clue, but so will removing the muffler and having a look at the piston. Suspect it's had a bit of melt down...
You might be looking for one of these.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=MCA+CC2084&catID= (http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=MCA+CC2084&catID=)
You also need to figure out why it melted. Usually a result of running lean. Carb problem, air leak, inlet gasket or crank seals?
Ian
Sounds like it was tuned too lean, set lean saws can get by doing light cutting but melt down doing heavy cutting. As above it also could be bad fuel lines, tanks vent, dirty carb or a air leak. Steve
Thanx for the quick replies. I checked the compression and got 50 psi. Pulled the exhaust as recommended and the piston looks scored. I have never worked on a chainsaw motor, but I am willing to give it a shot. I have rebuilt of few truck motors in the past and do most of my own mechanical work. Do you all have a good link to a DIY Stihl 044 rebuild. Are there specialty tools that are required. Really appreciate your help..........
It might sound odd to those opposed to doing modifications on saws but a lot of times it's a result of a restricted exhaust systems .
First of all if the exhaust can't get out the fuel can't get in .It's just the nature of loop port scavenging .Now add into that running a saw under constant strain running close to the ground where there is no air movement the results are not usually good on a long time run .
You can get by for a long time running a saw a tad lean on 20 -30 second cuts but you multiply that into ten minutes things don't go well .Sometimes you can save a cooked top end sometimes not .
Al, thanx for the info. What do you recommend at this point. I have 50 psi compression and I pulled the exhast cover off and the piston appears scored. Is it worth the the parts and labor to rebuild or should I sell for parts. This has been a great saw for me. As mentioned earlier in my post, not sue how technical or specialty tools would be required to re-build...............
Bailey's (forum sponsor), has decent pricing on replacement piston/cylinder. Check them out.
Easy to rebuild, a good set of T handle torx wrenches.. Quite a few times the cylinder can be saved cleaning up with muratic acid and honing, Meteor make a good aftermarket piston reasonable. Steve
Just depends on how bad it cooked the cylinder .Easy Off oven cleaner and a 3M pot scrubber works pretty good too .Wear rubber gloves and get in some venilation because it stinks to high heavens .Resist the urge to use a flap well because it will carve right through the nicosil plating in a heart beat if you don't watch it .
Meteor is a good alternative to OEM ,a lot cheaper .There are others if it's a 10 MM piston pin instead of a 12MM .For that matter often you can flea bay an entire OEM top end for a fraction of the cost of new or try Scott at ChainR a forum sponser .Link on the left side of the page .Send him a PM because he has tons of stuff not yet listed on his site .
Now a word of caution .Since it cooked the top end make certain it didn't blow tramp aluminum into the crankcase .Just one tiny piece stuck in a bearing race will ruin your day and make all the work for naught .
Thanx for all the info. I am going to tackle opening the powerhead and see what I find. I will keep you posted. I will be on the road for the next few weeks, so will have to tackle when I get back.....