Slightly Leaning Tree Lumber Quality

[bradpjohnson]

I am a home owner and woodworking hobbyist about to get my first bandsaw mill, a Wood-Mizer LT15 diesel. I have an 8 acre hilly woodlot with a nice mix of mature hardwoods mostly, including Red Oak, White Ash, Cherry, a nice Butternut with some evidence of canker, and a lot of Black Locust. I am in the process of identifying trees to harvest in the future for my own use. I have been learning about the lumber quality problems of leaning trees. Several of my otherwise promising trees have some lean; about 15 deg off vertical is typical. They are typically otherwise straight, healthy and of an acceptable size for my purposes, often 16"-24" with one-two stems below major limbs or other defects. How much reaction/tension wood might I expect from trees like this? After milling I p[lan to air dry and then build a small solar kiln for finishing prior to use. Help from experienced hands appreciated!

Brad

[doc henderson]

they are not leaning like a branch.  I would mill them and follow standard stickering and air drying procedure with weights or straps.  the solar kiln drying process may relieve some stress.  should be ok I think.

[BargeMonkey]

Typically you can see the stress when you log them up, I've cut some stuff that's shaped like an "L" and they will bow right off the mill, locust and ash more than anything else. Little bit of lean isn't bad, again like doc said, stickers and some weight goes a long ways. 

[doc henderson]

if nothing else they will be great practice logs, and you give the wood to your in-laws.     Most trees I cut have some lean.  the key is not to use a branch that went out perpendicular to the tree and parallel with the earth.     the only other options are to let them grow, or make firewood.  might as well make lumber and see.  good luck and welcome!

[WDH]

The way you saw it has to be determined by the intended use of the lumber based on whether it is better for you to deal with bow rather than crook or it would be better to deal with crook rather than bow. 

[bradpjohnson]

The way you saw it has to be determined by the intended use of the lumber based on whether it is better for you to deal with bow rather than crook or it would be better to deal with crook rather than bow.

So WDH it sounds like you are saying that even an arrow straight slightly leaning tree may well surprise me, and I must be prepared to respond to unexpected reaction wood while milling. Is it useful to mark the leaning side, or should it be obvious when looking at the growth ring configuration?
Brad

[RichTired]

Brad, you will enjoy the LT15. 8)

I agree with Doc on the fact you can use these as "learning" logs.  But you have already gotten some great advice and I am sure more will follow.

Welcome to the Forum and sawmilling.

[terrifictimbersllc]

 :P 

[Ianab]

Is it useful to mark the leaning side, or should it be obvious when looking at the growth ring configuration?

If the log has grown with excess lean / stress it will be obvious when you look at the pith / growth rings. If you can't tell from that, then chances are it's a "normal" log. 

You can come across scenarios where trees have grown straight initially, then leant over a bit due to earth movement / root damage etc. The log is often "normal". And of course you can find tension in a perfectly straight log as well. :-\

[Tom the Sawyer]

I would have to disagree.  To use a potentially stress-loaded log as a practice log for a new sawyer, could be counter-productive.  There are so many things to watch, look out for, and worry about on your first few logs, that adding in a log that might challenge a more experienced sawyer, might result in excess anxiety.  Think of putting a new rider on a green horse... disaster.  

I would rather they sink their teeth into an small to medium, old, straight, "tame" log and learn which way the sawdust blows before taking on more challenges.  Also consider who was there when most of us sawed our first log (best buddy, kids, wife with a camera), all distractions in addition to the new machine, controls, and process.

From an old defensive tactics instructor, people in pain cease to learn.

[bradpjohnson]

I would have to disagree.  To use a potentially stress-loaded log as a practice log for a new sawyer, could be counter-productive.  There are so many things to watch, look out for, and worry about on your first few logs, that adding in a log that might challenge a more experienced sawyer, might result in excess anxiety.  Think of putting a new rider on a green horse... disaster.  

I would rather they sink their teeth into an small to medium, old, straight, "tame" log and learn which way the sawdust blows before taking on more challenges.  Also consider who was there when most of us sawed our first log (best buddy, kids, wife with a camera), all distractions in addition to the new machine, controls, and process.

From an old defensive tactics instructor, people in pain cease to learn.

So much good advice! I will definitely not make my first log(s) anything too challenging; I have some pretty tame stuff available and by nature am quite risk averse - hardly even start my chainsaw unless I'm safety geared up like some kind of Samurai! Thank to all for your assistance and experience; I'm expecting to enjoy this process.

[WDH]

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=84976.0

Here is a thread about some lean, but likely much more extreme than what you are dealing with.

[cutterboy]

Brad, if this all isn't confusing enough let me add one more thing to the mix. Be very careful when cutting down those leaners, especially the oak and ash. They could barber-chair which is a life threatening situation. There are methods of sawing down trees to avoid that. The bore cut is one that I use. You can find discussions of these methods here on the forum and you can see videos on Utube.

   Best of luck to you.

[bradpjohnson]

Brad, if this all isn't confusing enough let me add one more thing to the mix. Be very careful when cutting down those leaners, especially the oak and ash. They could barber-chair which is a life threatening situation. There are methods of sawing down trees to avoid that. The bore cut is one that I use. You can find discussions of these methods here on the forum and you can see videos on Utube.

  Best of luck to you.

cutterboy, I appreciate your point. I have some good basic exposure to safe felling, having taken the Game of Logging course which emphasizes bore cutting. I have been reading some other helpful threads here as well. I will take a couple of pictures of tree examples to add for some more specific input from the forum. Thanks!

[cutterboy]

Brad, that's great! The Game of logging course is a good hands on way to learn safe felling. You should be all set. When does this adventure begin?

[bradpjohnson]

Brad, that's great! The Game of logging course is a good hands on way to learn safe felling. You should be all set. When does this adventure begin?

My LT15 with 17hp Diesel is 2 weeks into the ordering process; I was told 5 weeks but am trying to temper my expectations and hoping for Labor Day weekend. Fingers crossed!

[Southside]

If WM told you 5 weeks, then you can pretty well count on it being 5 weeks.