From the guy at Project Farm on youtube.
Wish he had included supertec brand from walmart. Price is right ;D.
The major brands didn't score very well.
Best Chainsaw Bar & Chain Oil? Motor Oil Better? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIlRBI2ccZE)
That was interesting for sure.
A lot of times on YouTube you get clout or drama. This guy has been straight facts and results for as long as I remember seeing him around. Respect to project farm.
Funny how the $8 dollar gal. brand Harvest King is overall better than the $25
dollar stuff. No one around here carries that brand though or I'd be buying it .
Only use a couple gallons of the stuff a year so no big deal I'll keep getting the
$16 walmart brand.
Harvest King appears to be out of Illinois I think.
I've got some Harvest King in the bed of the truck😁
Thanks for sharing that video. I agree that was interesting. I use a lot of Husqvarna Bar and Chain oil in all season and winter blend. I didn't think I was having any issues with performance, but now I wonder if there is a better and less expensive option.
I can get it just a few miles from me for $15.99 for a 2 gallon jug. Going ta hafta give it a try. :)
I finally watched the video, very interesting!
One of the biggest take aways for me? The premium oils had virtually nothing in them for additives, other then tackifier? So what is everyone paying for? (I've never used a drop of premium bar oil in my life. I'd rather die😂)
To be fair, the Harvest King could've been the clean out at the refinery from a run of high quality 15-40 synthetic diesel oil or something. Maybe the next jug is from a batch of something else? Either way, the "premium" oils having virtually no additive package going by the oil analysis is rather damning, I think. I'd be embarrassed if I was one of those manufacturers.
That was a very interesting video and I learned a bunch, thank you for sharing it. BUT I have to say, MAN that guy talks fast! In fact, he talks faster than I can think. :D ;D
Yeah he is a fast talker and does take some effort to keep up.
Good thing for the rewind option.
As to what barbender was saying, here is a quote similar to that from
one of the commenters on the youtube channel.
"Great video. This is really interesting. I actually work in the oil industry and can tell you that bar and chain oil is commonly "slop" oil or flush oil from the filling plant and then they just blend it with tackifier and other base oils to get it to the viscosity they want. I'm wondering if all those other brands are just massive mark-ups on a cheap product and the Harvest King is closer to the actual cost to make it haha."
You can go into the settings (gear icon) lower right of the video pane and select a slower playback speed.
I'll keep buying the Stihl bar oil, main reason is it supports my Stihl dealer. He is the one who has been on my support team for my Stihl saws for the last 45 years and I will miss him if Stihl gets their way and forces him out of business. His knowledge and ability to fix saws is unmatched at the hardware or box stores, and Deere dealers.
For any bar oil, one would be hard pressed IMO to know if one oil is any better than another. So buy whatever "feels good", be it whatever the price is out of your pocket. 8)
I appreciate the video, but I have trouble reconciling it with my own experience. I used a generic TSC bar and chain oil on my Stihl Light on the 500i and in one season, it showed significant wear and heat, much more so than I had ever seen before, and noticeably ate more chains. It basically wore the bar out in one season, I mean I dressed it about as many times as I wanted to. I just assumed it was due to the Stihl Light bar, it had been the first I'd used. I have since bought a new exact same bar, switched back to a "Name Brand" Stihl, and since then my bar wear has been about normal, (still there, but not as bad as before) and much less than the TSC oil. I have noticed the Stihl oil (orange jug) is much higher viscosity, and since I only use a few jugs a year, I am going to stick with it.
I do agree that generally, bar and chain oil is the "lowest of the low" like chocolate ice cream and there shouldn't be much difference.
I always assumed bar oil was bar oil, but...and it's hard to argue with his data, but something just doesn't jive with my experience. I'm definitely in the "I don't know if I agree, but..." category.
Maybe TSC oil is especially bad? :shrugs:
I never had problems with TSC oil. I'm not out logging every day or anything like that, but every oil I've used seems to work fine. I'm absolutely opposed to using expensive oil. At some point, it becomes cheaper to accept wear, and just buy new bars. I somewhat recently bought some bio oil lubricant that was $20/G, and I though that was extravagant, even though that's a middle of the road price at this point. I got it for my lesser used saws. I typically run canola, but it tacks up pretty bad if you don't keep the saws going, so I wanted something that wouldn't set up if a saw sits for awhile.
I've been using used hydraulic oil. I monitor bar/chain temp and nothing out of the ordinary yet, but only on my first couple gallons. I can't see paying $15+/gal for something like this. As lxskllr mentioned, at some point it's cheaper to replace bars a little more often. But so far, I've not noticed any difference.
SO, I thought bar oils were green because saws through oil all over the place when cutting. So I am surprised he even considered automotive engine oil because of the toxicity of the additives. Am I off base here? Anyway, if auto engine oil is OK, why not use what you take out of your truck at oil change? Spent oils may be even worse than new engine oil? Maybe spent oil from 5guys would be greener if it does not make us hungry while sawing.
Joking aside, my eyes are open to options other than top dollar name brands after viewing.
I have at times used FVP brand chain bar oil at under $9.00 per gallon. I have not noted any issues with smoke or heat using this oil. I have also bought chain bar oil at Fleet Farm, a midwest big box supply store, and the Tall Timber brand there has been under $12.00 per gallon. I have Stihl and Husqvarna on hand along with Amsoil brand. Amsoil claims to run cooler in their marketing material, but that's if you believe the marketing from the manufacture. I can say I have never had an issue where I thought I was running bad or inferior chain bar oil. Yet you can spend twice as much. Without real data how do you really know what's in the bottle. A lot like the gas coming out of the pumps, you get what you got.
A family member sent me the link to that video several days ago and the next day, multiple threads show up discussing it on multiple sites. Apparently it's a popular video right now!
I've only ever bought the cheapest b/c oil I can find. Historically that was Tall Timber (I remember that's all my Grampa ever used, but he was also a regular Fleet Farm customer.) In addition to Tall timber, I used FPV purchased at Menards and lately I found the Mystic brand of oil. I've got 10 or so 1-gallon jugs of varying brands on my shelf that I'm slowly working my way through. During and after Covid, I've had a mentality of stocking up on certain things when there's a sale. My latest purchase was to clear the shelves (only three 1-gallon jugs remaining) from the local Fleet Farm when the Mystic oil was on sale for 7.99 Every "cheap" brand I've used has performed just fine and I haven't paid more than $10/gallon pre-tax. No excessive heat, no excessive wear, flows adequately. I'm just a firewood guy and over 30 years (that includes working with my dad and grandpa as a little guy), never had an oil related issue on the saw (and I'm still running some of those saws from back in the day). Anecdotal evidence, but good enough for me!
To address the used motor oil option briefly, I wouldn't want all the metal and/or dirt & grime particles suspended in used engine oil to lubricate my bar rails or chain pins let alone "grind" though my oil pump. No thank you...
Since this thread came about, I have been paying more attention to pricing on chain bar oil. It ranges more than I was aware. The Husqvarna and Stihl dealers not on sale or specials $30.00 - $32.00 us per gallon. Same products slightly more at local hardware store. The off brand at auto parts stores was surprisingly about half, $13.00 - $18.00. The Amsoil bar oil has gone up to over $22.00 as a dealer but can go down based on volume. I did pick up 4 gallons of FVP Friday at under $9.00 us per gallon. Shopping can help price, but I still can't truly say one is any better than the other. Personal preference and the amount of product you consume would make more of a difference.
It'll be a frosty day down in that hot place before I put used engine oil in my saws
I'll repeat again- I'm not suggesting or recommending anyone use used motor oil for bar oil. I was making the point that garbage waste oil performed better than bar oil in a Ponsse H73 harvester head as far as lubrication goes. I'm not saying used motor oil is good, and I've never put it in a chainsaw myself. I'm addressing the fact that some think that bar oil is some wonderful scientifically engineered wonder sauce, when by all accounts it is the junk from the refinery blended to make a certain viscosity, with tackifier added. If you want to pay $32 a gallon for it be my guest☺️
I would have liked to the stats on hydraulic oil.
Interesting how the cheapy stuff did better on some things.
I mixed a gallon of used hydraulic oil with 12 oz of motor honey a couple of weeks ago with the intention of using it as bar and chain oil. I will be in the woods next month and plan on trying the motor honey mix and straight used hydraulic oil.
The motor honey additive not really a tackifier and is $7 so not saving a lot on that gallon even if it works well. But I like the idea reusing the hydraulic oil and just curious how it will work.
Quote from: barbender on January 13, 2024, 03:24:45 PM
I'll repeat again- I'm not suggesting or recommending anyone use used motor oil for bar oil. I was making the point that garbage waste oil performed better than bar oil in a Ponsse H73 harvester head as far as lubrication goes. I'm not saying used motor oil is good, and I've never put it in a chainsaw myself. I'm addressing the fact that some think that bar oil is some wonderful scientifically engineered wonder sauce, when by all accounts it is the junk from the refinery blended to make a certain viscosity, with tackifier added. If you want to pay $32 a gallon for it be my guest☺️
I wasn't pointing my comment at anybody specific or anyone's comments. Apologies if it was taken that way. Just stating my opinion. smiley_divide
My wife says I'm a little too sensitive sometimes🤦😂 Nah, no offense taken- I just want to make clear I'm not suggesting used motor oil in your chainsaw is a good idea. Nasty stuff!
It's been a while since I posted here, forum looks great with this new format. Is it Meta based?
On the subject of bar oil operating in a warm climate there is a trend with a few operators running water mixed with 5% eco friendly oil added. Water cools and evaporates still leaving a oil layer between the two metal surfaces. Vicosity is easier on the pump efficiency but needs to be adjusted at a lower setting to prevent running dry before fuel does.
Works equally well on milling gravity fed auxiliary oilers. Vibration and movement from both chainsaw and auxiliary oilers keeps the mixture from separating.
Something to think about.
Can't argue with that guy. He spends a lot of time and money on making these videos. Great service to all of us.
I do notice how much dirtier my saw is when I use the cheaper oil as it flows out more. I will ruminate on the info provided. As another post noted, what oil and from where and is the oil quality consistent?
While he was pointing out USA stuff, I saw some of the descriptions also stated foreign components in the makeup of the oils - whatever that means.
On the subject of used motor oil, you may find some of the cheaper brands are "re-refined" used oil. Problem with used engine oil is that it's contaminated, with who knows what. But it's still 98% oil. If it's treated as "crude oil", run through a filter and basic refining process, the oil can be recovered. What it's SAE rating will be is any ones guess, but that's not so critical. Viscosity can be adjusted with additives and tackifier added, and it's now an OK bar oil.
Now considering that waste engine oil is actually a problem to dispose of, the oil processor is probably getting it for nothing. Clean it up and re-sell it, win - win.