Yeah yeah yeah, I know; the best chain for a Poulan Pro is the heaviest chain you wouldn't mind wrapping around it before sending it to the bottom of a lake....
I have an older (2005) Poulan Pro that FEMA bought me right after Katrina. It needs a new chain and I need to have this thing in as best shape as possible as a beater/loaner saw. Is there another chain of better quality or from another make that will run on this saw? Thanks.
Tell us what the bar is, and what it's specs are... should be stamped on the bar.
Is this going to take the place of the other saw you were asking about?
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,83112.msg1268933.html#msg1268933
Quote from: beenthere on April 30, 2015, 09:54:43 PM
Tell us what the bar is, and what it's specs are... should be stamped on the bar.
Is this going to take the place of the other saw you were asking about?
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,83112.msg1268933.html#msg1268933
No, just trying to fill a gap before the other one gets here. I've got two trees (pine and oak) that were hit by lighting a year ago I have to take down. I'd rather not put my new saw through that.
And the bar specs are?
Read the specs on the bar. Before you buy a new chain, you need to know the pitch (.325", 3/8", .404", etc.) Most likely it is a .325". This matters because the sprocket you have on your powerhead is set for a certain pitch. You need to know what thickness the drivers are. The most common sizes are .050", .058", and .063". Last but not least, you need to know how many drivers it has. For example, a 20" stihl .050" rollomatic es bar calls for 72 drive links, off the top of my head. All of this information should be on the bar towards the powerhead.
Stihl makes some of the best chain around, in my opinion. It stays sharp very long as it is made of high quality steel. Oregon chain is kinda going downhill. Forester chain from what I've read is fairly decent. Carlton is good, too. If you bring the saw in to a saw shop they should be able to fix you up. If you can't read the specs on the bar, they should be able to measure the groove. Or you can test the fit.
Poulan Pro is a large category...do you have model #? My PP380 takes 3/8". My PP260 takes 3/8" Lo-Pro. Big difference. Most 42cc Poulans take 3/8" Lo-Pro .050" gauge. A good low priced yellow (pro) chain for an 18" bar is Oregon 91VXL062G. 62 means Drive Links. A 14" bar takes 52 DL.
I'll get it when I get a chance. I was checking this site when I got an emergency phone call at 7:30 and just got home. I have just enough time to eat, shower and head of to my sleep study.
Bar says: 53004695
20 .325-78 CV
You're missing a digit in Poulan # - 5300 then 5 #s.
But it's a 20" bar, .325 pitch, 78 drive links. Need gauge - I'd guess .050 but could be .058. Look for the saw model # - you can input that in the Oregon Chain Selector and see all the chains and bars.
X2 what # is on your chain drive link??? 8)
530044695 is the bar number, no idea on link. Saw is PP4620AVHD. It's not a bad little saw for what it is, it's just the handle screws keep coming out.
That's a 20" .325 .050 78DL bar. Oregon has green anti-kickback chain - 20BPX078G or yellow pro chain - 20LPX078G
What about a Stihl chain?
Stihl 23RS sawchain ( .325-.050 yellow link chisel )
Cool, thanks. How much more dangerous are the yellow chains? I've run saws before but it's been years and have certainly forgotten more than I remember.
QuoteI've run saws before but it's been years and have certainly forgotten more than I remember.
Then the yellow may be dangerous for you.. ;D
Quote from: beenthere on May 08, 2015, 10:06:27 AM
QuoteI've run saws before but it's been years and have certainly forgotten more than I remember.
Then the yellow may be dangerous for you.. ;D
Thanks to the info provided by HT, I was able to dig around and find this one: http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Chain/Chainsaw-Chain-325-Pitch/Semi-Chisel-Chainsaw-Chain-325-x-050/Stihl-23RM3-Chainsaw-Chain-Low-Kickback/Stihl-20-Chainsaw-Chain-Loop-23-RM3-78-Drive-Links-3632-005-0078.axd
What's the "micro" part mean? I can't find an explanation anywhere.
Micro means semi chisel. RM [Rapid Micro] is semi chisel cutter design, RS [Rapid Super] is chisel design.
Basically a "green chain" has one extra safety ramp link built into the top the drive link next to the cutter's depth gauge and a 3rd safety ramp on the side tie link directly in front of the cutters depth gauge. But depending whether it's a Stihl or Oregon chain minus the 3rd ramp can still make it a "green" ANSI B175.1 kickback standard chain.
"Yellow chain" is minus the 3rd side tie link ramp, leaving just with or without the drive link ramp and a sloped ramp on the leading edge of the depth gauge which is technically rated as a kickback reduction design.
Interestingly the Oregon 72,73 and 75 V [Vanguard] chain with just the bent over depth gauge ramp is rated as a ANSI B175.1 rated "green chain".....which in my opinion is the best cutting full sized 3/8"chisel "green chain" available.
Green and yellow guide bars are another story.
Lets take Stihl 3/8" sprocket nose bars for example. All 25" and longer bars are "yellow bars", with one exception the 10T replaceble sprocket nose 25" bar # 3003 000 4030 which is a "green" bar. That's because it has the smaller diameter 10 Tooth sprocket nose versus the 11T and 13T noses of the other bars.
16" and longer 3/8" ES bars with the 11 Tooth sprocket noses are also "Yellow bars".
The E bars which are laminated with non exchangeable 10Tooth sprocket noses are "green bars".
All Stihl .325 pitch bars are laminated "green bars". All .404 b/c are "yellow".
Yellow smiley_wavy
Quote from: 4x4American on May 08, 2015, 10:41:37 PM
Yellow smiley_wavy
You recommending a chain or getting personal? :D
oh just sayin yellow! smiley_wavy