A hydraulic winch I put together to run behind a Farmall 560.
The winch came out of a wrecker I believe. I bought the 3 Point back blade from an auction. And the Hyd. motor from craigslist.
I would like the experts here to look it over, and point out problems I might have.
I want to be able to winch out tree roots, and do a little log skidding.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33744/Winch4~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1510593669)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33744/Winch3~0.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1510593667)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33744/Winch2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1510593666)
I like it but if you're winching tree roots out you may need better stop spikes. I don't think the blade will do very good keeping you from dragging yourself to the stump.
Just leave one stump to put the blade up to. An arch might help when skidding.
Looking good. Did you gear down the hydraulic motor ? Or how big is the sprocket ? Kinda hard to see.
And you may want to put a lighter cable on that drum. Just saying, because it looks pretty tough to pull out.
Does it free spool ?
What's above that blade? The logs can bang into what ever is above. One in a while you might have to back up and that changes everything.
I have no idea how much power that winch has. But pulling out stumps will show ya!! Logs for the most part should move,but stumps........
Here is a pic from the back without the blade. Nothing too critical to bump against. I'd rather not downsize the cable if I'm pulling stumps.
I have the cable running out from the top of the drum for more height.
By my really rough estimates, I figure the winch will run about 1/3 slower than when it was installed in the wrecker. I think I'll be OK with that. I can put a smaller sprocket on the worm if I need to go faster.
The 560 has a fast hitch that has power down. I could bury the blade or back into another stump or tree as mentioned.
I have pulled trees out, roots and all, with a 8000lbs winch on the front of my Jeep, using 3 snatch blocks and lots of cables. Pulling over the full tree helps with getting the roots out, using the weight of the tree.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/33744/winch5.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1510660726)
I remember being told to spool off the bottom but I don't know why ???
edit; Well looking at the pic it does lower the lever arm against the mounts. I usually find all the weak links I didn't think about when I load up homemade stuff. Follow the load path through the blade, winch, tractor.
How big of a stump are you talking about ? On the wrecker the winch most likely was running of the PTO. With a hydraulic drive you will never have the same torque even with gearing it down.
Looks like a braden or tulsa. Im gonna take a guess and say youll be going to a smaller sprocket on the drive motor and a bigger one on the worm before you get the line force youre wanting. All the pto winches ive encountered had much larger dispacement hyd motors and still had a small sprocket off the motor.. Like a 3:1 reduction or more. You look to have a 15 or 20% overdrive there.
If the 3pt cant lift the log, move the hitch pins back toward the blade so the winch gets closer to your axle. Thats a pretty long lever.
For winching stumps it'd be much more effecting tugging on an A frame placed over the stump to create vertical lift. Most stumps will pull a tractor to it.
Goodluck and keep us posted
24" elm.
The specs on the motor are about 200 lbs ft. @ 230 rpm.
Ill be pretty stunned if youre winching out 24" stumps. Here with oaks that big im dozing down 4ft deep before i can turn up the root ball. Sometimes 5' diameter
I also have 3 snatch blocks.
Whats the worm ratio on the winch and tooth counts on your drive sprockets
I have winched out an 18" tree with my 8000lbs warn winch on my jeep.
Looks like a good winch. At full line pull, especially with snatch blocks, I think the blade will break. I hope I am wrong.
Quote from: mike_belben on November 14, 2017, 09:24:43 PM
Whats the worm ratio on the winch and tooth counts on your drive sprockets
If it's 20/1 i would say his winch can pull 10000 12000 lbs. At 11.5 rpm.
Worm ratios are usually quite a bit higher and thats not a small housing. Id bet its closer to 80:1 or more.
Ouch!
This seems mad. Old French forestry winches run 20>24 to 1. Usually. Which means you can run 3 or 4 fpm at 1500 rpm.
Yeah but youre looking at an american wrecker winch for righting rolled over vehicles. You want slow line speed for that. Fast is bad when things are precarious.
Here is a video of me winching out a cherry tree. I pulled it over fine but ended up snapping a 3/8 transport chain trying to continue to pull the rest of the roots completely out. I had to rehook at a different angle to extract it completely.
With the use of three snatch blocks, doubling the force at each, the 8000lbs winch pulled at a force of 64,000lbs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5UBf5CuYeQ
Quote from: mike_belben on November 15, 2017, 10:41:30 AM
Yeah but youre looking at an american wrecker winch for righting rolled over vehicles. You want slow line speed for that. Fast is bad when things are precarious.
Yep. Been thinking over and over about hydraulic winches
I know now that, for looging, with a 10 inch drum you need 80/90 rpm at the drum. ;D
Quote from: GearDrive on November 15, 2017, 12:05:44 PM
With the use of three snatch blocks, doubling the force at each, the 8000lbs winch pulled at a force of 64,000lbs.
If you were actually pulling that hard, it's no surprise you broke a 3/8 chain. The spec for Working Load Limit of 3/8" grade 70 chain is 6600 lbs. The breaking strength is supposed to be 4 times the WLL, or 26,400 lbs.
Do you realize putting a winch cable into a small radius block and tackle like that basically halves its strength? The inner radius goes into compression leaving only the outer radius to handle the full load tension. dividing the number of wires that carry the load while multiplying the force on it is a good way to see what the energy stored in an exploding cable can do to windshield or flesh. Be careful.