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Author Topic: Sawing "big" short logs  (Read 1734 times)

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Offline kelLOGg

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Sawing "big" short logs
« on: July 27, 2018, 07:28:45 PM »
I have sawn lots of small short logs that can be leveled with reasonable manual effort but now I
have a 31" diam log 6.5' that won't reach the leveling jacks so I have to place jacking points on thick sawdust under the log on which to place a jack. I will be RRQSing this log so I will be jacking and rotating a lot to octagonalize the log. Sort of a drag. What do you do in a similar situation?
Bob



 " 


Cook's MP-32, 16HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw, setter, tandem trailer, log arches, tractor, thumb tacks

Offline low_48

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Re: Sawing "big" short logs
« Reply #1 on: July 27, 2018, 11:32:54 PM »
Cribbing and a rolling high lift automotive floor jack.

Offline dgdrls

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Re: Sawing "big" short logs
« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2018, 07:35:03 AM »
Can you move the log down the bed to one of the jacks??

D

Offline btulloh

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Re: Sawing "big" short logs
« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2018, 08:17:30 AM »
I'd weld on a couple back stop pockets on the other side to turn against.
HM126

Offline CCCLLC

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Re: Sawing "big" short logs
« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2018, 11:09:52 AM »
Bibbying lightly, manual backstops, may have to turn only 5-10 degrees at a time. Lots of turning and first Bibby cuts will be short. Gradually the pith will come in line with bed.

Offline kelLOGg

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Re: Sawing "big" short logs
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2018, 12:45:08 PM »
Can you move the log down the bed to one of the jacks??

D
I could but the cable on my winch turner would be waaay off center and not turn the log.
Cook's MP-32, 16HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw, setter, tandem trailer, log arches, tractor, thumb tacks

Offline kelLOGg

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Re: Sawing "big" short logs
« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2018, 01:04:43 PM »
I'd weld on a couple back stop pockets on the other side to turn against.
I think I see what you mean. The current squaring arms are on the inside of the main rail. Currently I slip square tubes over them to make them higher but I have to roll the log to make room for them.  You're saying weld a pocket on the opposite side of the rail to hold a stop to allow for oversize logs. That's great idea but the track [c-channel] for the head drive chain in in the way. I may be able to get around it. Thanks.
Cook's MP-32, 16HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw, setter, tandem trailer, log arches, tractor, thumb tacks

Offline kelLOGg

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Re: Sawing "big" short logs
« Reply #7 on: July 28, 2018, 02:04:42 PM »
Your replies have got me thinking about overcoming my lack of jacking points for short logs. currently I have welded-in shelves about 7.5' apart. It would be very easy to weld up drop-in shelves that could be placed where needed. They would rest on the main rails and have a suitable depth to accommodate a jack. hmmmm - a short project is coming up before I saw shorty.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 16HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw, setter, tandem trailer, log arches, tractor, thumb tacks

Offline D6c

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Re: Sawing "big" short logs
« Reply #8 on: July 28, 2018, 08:42:49 PM »
RRQ sawed a burr oak the other day that was just about too big for the mill.  Used the loader tractor to turn it with a chain parbuckled around the log.   That allowed me to to turn it either direction depending on which way I hooked the chain.  Made me wish for a mill with double hydraulic chain turner's.

Offline btulloh

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Re: Sawing "big" short logs
« Reply #9 on: July 29, 2018, 12:35:41 PM »
You're saying weld a pocket on the opposite side of the rail to hold a stop to allow for oversize logs. That's great idea but the track [c-channel] for the head drive chain in in the way. I may be able to get around it. Thanks.


I wasn't very clear.  I was saying put them on the opposite rail to use if you want to turn the log the opposite way.  Maybe that's not even the question you were asking :).  My little mill is spec'd to handle 26" logs, and it takes a while to figure out how that works 'cause it's a little different than say a 22"' log.  I have to lower the backstops below the center line so the log actually extends past the backstops a little.  That's just for normal turning, but when the backstops are this low I have to raise the backstops again past the center line to turn it so the log doesn't climb up the backstops.  Then probably lower them for the second cut.  It takes a lot of doing on a little mill.  That's just for normal sawing to get to a cant.  RRQS, which I haven't tried yet, is whole nother degree of aggravation.

One thing is for sure either way:  Short logs are annoying and short BIG logs are even more annoying.
HM126

Offline kelLOGg

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Re: Sawing "big" short logs
« Reply #10 on: July 29, 2018, 05:23:00 PM »
I gotcha now. Still a good idea that would be hard for me to implement because of the channel for the drive chain being in the way.

I rigged my loader/turner so it can turn either direction. I don't turn the "wrong" way very far - only enough to get the log off the sq arms so I can slip a tube over them to make them higher for oversized logs - even then I put a loose chain around the log just in case I overdo it. 
Cook's MP-32, 16HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw, setter, tandem trailer, log arches, tractor, thumb tacks

Offline WDH

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Re: Sawing "big" short logs
« Reply #11 on: July 29, 2018, 08:05:08 PM »
I "hates" short logs.





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