New Shank/Bit Instal Help?

Jeff · December 10, 2012, 06:36:55 PM

Ron Got to this while I was doing my husbandly duties. Folding the towels I was told to fold.

Anyhow, yup. know that I am nome and not looking at the photos on a phone, its obvious that of those are marks from your guidepins. you gotta do what Ron said.

dail_h · December 10, 2012, 07:13:07 PM

;D

Charles135 · December 10, 2012, 11:53:20 PM

Dail, Ron, and Jeff
I read that in another thread. I have since mere the adjustment. Thanks for letting me know! Why is it a no no to have the guides so high?
Charlie

beenthere · December 11, 2012, 12:28:36 AM

Might be that they hit on the shanks.

Ron Wenrich · December 11, 2012, 05:50:28 AM

Your worst enemy in any saw is friction. Friction causes heat and that causes the steel to do things you don't want it to do. It stretches. Friction on the rim is the worst, as it stretches the rim, but not the eye.

As a sawyer, you want to reduce the friction as much as possible. That means you have to adjust the saw so it doesn't drag at any point. That's the purpose of lead, teeth wider than the saw, and shanks wider than the saw. A constant drag on the shanks will cause heat. If you adjust too far away from the shanks, then the purpose of the saw guide is defeated. I had some that were too far away from the shanks cause some real problems with sawing.

Sawdust can also drag down the sides of a saw. That's the purpose of the shanks. Worn shanks allow it to spill out. This can cause some heat. But, when you saw logs that are partially frozen, you'll get sawdust caking on the side of the log. When that happens, it will push your saw causing miscut lumber and a general frustration that will make you doubt your abilities as a sawyer.

Heat will cause problems. That's why having the sun shine on your saw will cause erratic performance. It doesn't have to be a lot of sun. I've also noticed that the best production I get from saws is in the late spring and early fall. I've always thought that was due to air temperature.

Jeff · December 11, 2012, 11:02:25 AM

Saw guides as a term is sort of misleading. The guides, in a properly running saw, never touch the saw for the most part. They are there as a means to keep a saw in check if it leaves the path of intention. People will use the saw guides sometimes as a means to keep a saw cutting in its intended path, and if they do, they are treating a symptom, rather than delivering a cure. The best way to set your guides is with the saw running. That may not be a safe thing to do with some saw set ups. I'm used to guide systems that have the ability to be adjusted from a safer working distance from a turning saw. If your saw is running true at speed (not wobbling), you should first adjust in your carriage side pin until you just here a tick... tick... Just a random incidental contact with the rotating saw, then back it off just a half a hair. Then repeat with the slab side. If you adjust with the saw standing still, you hneed to make compensations in your settings for when the saw stands up under rotation so the guides just barely clear the saw and are not riding it.