Pre-Mixed Fuel vs. Mixing It Yourself + Trimmer Saw Blade

[GuyInHuntsville]

I just bought a Husqvarna brushcutter (345FR) and also 3 cans of the pre-mixed 50:1 fuel in order to extend the warranty by more 2 years and was wondering if anyone would discourage me from just using regular gas and mixing in the 2 cycle oil myself? The pre-mixed fuel was about $8 a quart.

I bought this tool for using it with the saw blade (24 teeth I'm guessing) it came with for cutting down small trees and brush and I'm expecting to go through a lot of fuel...Any advice too for using a saw blade like this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading!!

[thecfarm]

How much you using the brushcutter?
I use the highest grade of gas that I can get at my local gas station in all my small motors.

[treeslayer2003]

well, I use regular with stihl orange bottle at 40-1 for over 20 years with no trouble, but my saws don't sit. if you do this make sore to drain out the fuel if its gonna sit around a while or the ethanol will eat up the lines.

[GuyInHuntsville]

thecfarm, I expect to be using it for hours on end...Probably 6 hours a day on the weekends, maybe even more, pretty much continuously.
So you use super unleaded and mix your own fuel? My cutter is 50:1 but should I add a little extra oil to the gas? I'd like this tool to last a long time...Pretty expensive for me.

[GuyInHuntsville]

treeslayer, thanks....Yes, I found that out the hard way with my lawn equip.

[thecfarm]

 I run 40:1 in my Husky 372,my efco saw and my Echo trimmer to add some fuel to the fire.  ;D Yes,I mix my own oil. I myself would run 40:1 and think nothing of it. But it should be tuned to that mix too.  Some will agree some won't. I have no idea what my mix would do for a warranty issue. I use the small bottles mix from Husky.

[GuyInHuntsville]

thecfarm, does the 40:1 mean there's more oil in the gas vs. the 50:1 (less oil)?
Will you tell me how to mix it to come out 40:1? How many 1 gallon size bottles of oil should I add to 5 gallons of gas? Thanks!!

[thecfarm]

There is less gas in the mix. If buying the small bottles,it should be on the back. With my Husky mix I use 4 gallons of gas to one bottle,that would be 40:1. If I put in 5 gallons of gas that would be 50:1. I'm am not saying to do the above,but it's what I do. I don't want you to have trouble with your saw.

[GuyInHuntsville]

thecfarm, thanks...I'll just add an ounce or 2 to my 5 gallon 50:1 mix. That way I won't have to have it tuned.

[trapper]

Instead of 5 gal I would mix 2 1/2 gal at a time to keep the mix fresher unless you are using it full time on a daily basis.

[Southside]

I run 32:1 in my Husky and it does just fine, personally I use 87 octane gas and Ithaca boat 2cycle oil I buy in gallon jugs, mix 1.5 gal at a time, no smoking issues or anything like that, the extra oil gives me peace of mind. 

[GuyInHuntsville]

Thanks trapper and Southside Logger.

This is what I'll be running by the way:


 

[pine]

Use whatever mix ratio that the manufacturer says to.  They built it and they know what it is spec'ed for.

I would guess that Husky just like other suppliers of 2 cycle oil, sell the bottles sized for 1 gal/2 gal/2.5 gal/and 5 gal mix amounts.  Take the bottle and combine it with whatever amount of gas that it is designed for.  There are measuring cups that are not only labeled with ounce markings but also labeled with the desired ratio for final quantity that you can use.  I buy my oil in gallon containers so I have to measure it.  I go through a lot of oil and fuel mix. 

As you are a newbie to the 2 cycle saw equipment world and for simplicity I would just go with the pre-measured bottle sizes.  They tend to come in a 6-pack of the oil bottles.

For 50:1 use 2.56 oz with 1 gallon fuel;
For 40:1 use 3.2 oz with 1 gallon fuel;
1 gal is 128 oz  divide the number of ounces of total fuel by the ratio that you want and the result is the ounces of oil.
128(number of gal desired)/mix ratio = ounces of oil to use   128(5)/50 = 12.8 oz oil  5 gal of mix at 50:1 ratio

I use ethanol free fuel because I like it better.  Ethanol laced fuel can be used but use it within 2 weeks max (IMO).  There are several web sites that you can find ethanol free fuel with.  I like pure-gas.org but there are others that work just fine.  Stihl recommends 89 octane minimum. Husqvarna recommends 87 octane minimum

As an aside I was at my dealer the other day and asked "What happened to that piston/cylinder" that they had on display?  They told me it was from a customer that told them he always added a little more oil to his mix to ensure that there was enough oil in it.  They had warned him not to overdo it but he ignored them and it ruined the saw.  The exact ratio was not known but it can harm if the ratio is too much.  The same dealer said that the manufacturer who recommends 50:1 had actually done a test and used 80:1 ratio for a 1000 hour test and there was no damage to the saw.  Even so the company still recommends 50:1 for users.

[Dave Shepard]

I'm in the 50:1 camp myself. I buy the highest octane at the pump and use Stihl HP Ultra synthetic mix. Because there is only one hose and three grades of gas, at least around here, I pump a gallon into the Jeep first to clear any ethanol 87 or 89 from the hose, then I fill my mix gas can. Whatever ratio you pick, tune it for that and stick with it.

[chester_tree _farmah]

Sweet. I want one. Great for pre commercial thinning.

I buy the small one gallon size husky oil for my 254xp if I am not going to be cutting a lot. Mixed at 50:1. Always super but my manual calls for it. I bought the saw new around 1986 and have not had to touch the motor. Still screams. I kind of wish it would die so I could justify a new 562xp.

[GuyInHuntsville]

Thanks pine! That is some good info. Also, you're right about me being new to this kind of tool or even chainsaws....I've always used 2 cycle lawn equipment but never cared very much about maintianing them (I need to change that). This tool was $800 and I want to do everything right by it.

Dave Shepard, thanks...Are you saying there isn't any ethenol in the 92 or 93 octane gas at gas stations?

Thanks everyone for all your responses!!

[chester_tree _farmah]

Sorry I meant around 1996.

[GuyInHuntsville]

"Sweet. I want one."

hahaha...That's what I said when I first saw it!...I even bought larger blades for it too with carbide teeth. It's heavy but it came with a really nice body harness. I know this tool is dangerous but I'll break myself in gently with it!

[trapper]

Read the label on the pump.  Not all premiums are ethanol free. Like Dave Shepard I also pump some gas in my truck before filling the can.

[GuyInHuntsville]

Thanks trapper for answering that...I'll check around my area to see if there's any gas stations that have ethenol free premium gas.

[SwampDonkey]

There's not many pre-commercial thinners on here, but I'm one of them.  ;D

However I do not use Husky brush saws, I use Stihl. I have had this current one since 1997 and thin 75-100 acres of ground a year.  Yes I have put new seals and bearings in myself in 2010. I'm the only one that touches my saws. ;)

I of course use a lot of gas, but I always run the mid grade (no ethanol) and Stihl mix 50:1. It has stabilizer in it and I never dump gas. She all burns. ;D I use a 5 gallon (25 l jug) and a 500 ml bottle of oil. I would never buy pre-mix, that's a gimmick to part with extra dollars. Never see it sold that way here.

I was wondering how you get 2 years warrantee on your saw? You can only get 1 year on any brand saw up here. At one time we could only get 90 days as a thinner, home back yard users could get the year. But that changed when Echo introduced their saw and gave a year on pro use.

[GuyInHuntsville]

SwampDonkey, the Stihl looked real good but cost a lot more so I just chose this one. It comes with a 2 year warranty as standard and if you buy the 3 can of pre-mixed oil they extend it to 4 years...Maybe it's a gimmick and Husky's tough on getting warranty work done and they know it and I don't...Just speculating. The dealer said they're good about honoring warranty claims. Here's a link to Husky's warranty plan: http://www.husqvarna.com/us/support/extended-warranty-program/

Thanks!!

[Dave Shepard]

Around here, the mid grade gas is a mix of premium and regular, so you will have ethanol in the mid-grade, which is what the manufacturers recommend. I bought an alcohol tester from Bailey's years ago, although all you really need is a graduated cylinder, or even a glass jar with markings on it. :D I tested the high grade gas and it was free of ethanol. Maybe that has changed, but I don't have trouble with my gas, and I can keep it around for a long time.

[SwampDonkey]

Ethanol is a new fad up here, but I read on the refinery site that ethanol is only blended in regular. The refineries are only obligated to add it by volume in Canada, not by grade. Our Ultramar stations around my area have none at all in any grade. I always used mid grade for years before the ethanol graze and continue to.

The extended warranty must be a US thing, and don't mention using the saw professionally or that will likely change things. I see where it says so on that page.

What the heck can 3 bottles of manufacturer's pre-mix do to extend the saw's life? Not much. I bet they are pricey to.

And where to they list the limitations? That's the $1350 question.  Is your use agriculturally related, like a tree farm? You'll be, as they say, SOOL. ;D

Ethanol Blending in regular 87 octane

[pine]

I went to see what I could find about the differences between Canada and US extended warranty rules were.

Taken from the Stihl USA warranty site  You can get the 2 yr from buying a 6 pack of HP Ultra oil as well as the MotoMix.

Double limited warranty protection applies to STIHL gasoline-powered products purchased for personal non-income producing, family and household purposes only. At the time of your equipment purchase, simply purchase six bottles of STIHL HP Ultra engine oil or six cans of STIHL MotoMix® pre-mixed fuel to qualify for double the limited warranty coverage. STIHL HP Ultra provides the best engine oil for improved engine longevity. *Double limited warranty protection applies to STIHL gasoline-powered products purchased and registered for personal non-income producing, family and household purposes only.

From the Stihl Canada Site
The following models are not eligible for the 2 year extended warranty (MS 201, MS 440, MS 441, MS 460, MS 461, MS 660, MS 661, MS 880, GS 461 and all TS models)
The following models are not eligible for the 2 year extended warranty (FS 350 - FS 560)
2 year Warranty valid with six pack oil, 3 cans of MotoMix® or 1 can of 4L MotoMix® purchase
(but not for the above mentioned models)
Just as in the US the extended warranty does not apply to professional use, only for homeowner use.

Of course you have a Husky not a Stihl and I was not able to find the Husky rules as easily.

[Dave Shepard]

Ethanol is a new fad up here, but I read on the refinery site that ethanol is only blended in regular. The refineries are only obligated to add it by volume in Canada, not by grade. Our Ultramar stations around my area have none at all in any grade. I always used mid grade for years before the ethanol graze and continue to.

The extended warranty must be a US thing, and don't mention using the saw professionally or that will likely change things. I see where it says so on that page.

What the heck can 3 bottles of manufacturer's pre-mix do to extend the saw's life? Not much. I bet they are pricey to.

And where to they list the limitations? That's the $1350 question.  Is your use agriculturally related, like a tree farm? You'll be, as they say, SOOL. ;D

Ethanol Blending in regular 87 octane

They take the extra $50 they make on the premix gas and put that in a warranty fund and hope you don't blow it up until the 105th week. :D

[thenorthman]

the premix is a scam, yeah its ok gas, but mix in some decent 2 stroke mix and chances are it has preservatives in it anyway...

at $8. a quart that's what $32. a gallon for ok fuel? I smell a scam...

As far as a piston being burned up because of mixing to thick?  Not likely worst case you foul a few plugs.  Mix it to thin then yeah you burn up motors.  The more likely culprit is improper tuning.

And for home use 50-1 is fine, you start hacking into the exhaust and opening things up that the factory never intended to open... then you might want to consider running a little more oil...

[DonT]

I think the pre mix fuel is aimed at the homeowner who does not burn a lot of gas in there big box store saw or is uncomfortable mixing there own fuel.I have thought of throwing a can in the chipper for that odd day the gas can mysteriously does not make it on the truck.

[GuyInHuntsville]

SwampDonkey, thanks...Wife and I are now the proud owners of 13 1/2 acres just outside of Huntsville, Texas. Bought/closed 2 weeks ago. I bought this tool, as well as other implements of destruction, to help me clear/thin out some of the underbrush....I'm seriously considering hiring a hydro-axe mulcher to come in and thin some of the place out, everything under 4" diameter or maybe 3"....Quoted $800 per acre...Need about 4 - 5 acres thinned out and leave the rest woods.


  

  

 

[GuyInHuntsville]

And where to they list the limitations? That's the $1350 question.  Is your use agriculturally related, like a tree farm? You'll be, as they say, SOOL. ;D

I had to Google SOOL....hahaha...I agree :embarassed:

[SwampDonkey]

You'll get too much damage to the leave trees with that machine if your thinking of thinning. Clearing is another matter or cutting paths. How wide between trees and how will the machine travel and swing the boom around them. The manual way gives the best results when thinning. Tried mechanized pre-commercial thinning up here a few years back. Didn't work. Job security. ;D

[GuyInHuntsville]

You'll get too much damage to the leave trees with that machine if your thinking of thinning. Clearing is another matter or cutting paths. How wide between trees and how will the machine travel and swing the boom around them. The manual way gives the best results when thinning. Tried mechanized pre-commercial thinning up here a few years back. Didn't work. Job security. ;D

This is what I love about this site and you guys....I'm not experienced enough to have considered that. I wouldn't want to scar any of the big beautiful trees and there's a whole lot of them. Thank you for bringing that up!
Do you have any problems clearing with your Stihl brushcutter? Probably very labor intensive....Do you experience a lot of kickback from the blade? Can you recommend a good blade?

[thecfarm]

You will have fun taking care of your forest and land!! It will take some time to get it the way you want it.

[GuyInHuntsville]

There are however a few -huge- pines that need to come down that are in the path of where we want the driveway to go.

From what I've gathered here is that probably everyone here mixes their own gas. Personally, my experience with the pre-mixed gas isn't good: I had to have my primer bulbs and gas lines replaced a couple of times on all of my Echo lawn equip and the repair guy said just use the pre-mix sold at Home Depot to solve the ethenol problem. So I did. 2 uses later my leaf blower motor was seized and the weed wacker refused to start...Nothing wrong with my stick edger (I didn't put the pre-mix in that one). Carb on the wacker needed overhauling so I just bought a cheap new carb off eBay. I'm positive the pre-mix did something to these 2 tools...The hardly used blower had to be replaced (with Ryobi and I like it way better than the Echo). The pre-mix I used was the right mix for these tools. I don't like the pre-mixed fuel. I wanted to ask about it here because maybe I was missing something.

[GuyInHuntsville]

You will have fun taking care of your forest and land!! It will take some time to get it the way you want it.

Thanks thecfarm! I certainly will....Hydro-axing seems like cheating. I can't wait to start using my tools. My problem is that I pretty much work 7 days a week (machinist). Looking forward to using vacation days and available weekends to get out there!!

[thecfarm]

Nothing wrong with mixing your fuel. Many have been doing it for years. Just use certain containers for the mix and ONLY for them.I wrote chain saw on my gas can. I always put the oil in first, at my house,than the gas. I do it the SAME way EVERY single time. When I put the gas into a smaller container I shake the big can real good,EVERY time. Have to get that oil to mix in with the gas, don't want the oil on the bottom of the gas can. Than when I fill up my saw I always shake it before filling. EVERY time. All this will just become a habit after a while.

[SwampDonkey]

Kickback is mostly when making a cut on the top right hand corner in bigger stems in clumps. And it's nothing to it. In little stuff there isn't much. Keep the rpm's up, but don't need to make the saw scream, probably somewhere in the mid rpm range unless the thinning is in excessively thick stuff. Too low rpm and your guard binds the saw a lot.

No big issues with the Stihl. There are some week points on the FS550, now discontinued, but an excellent saw. The elbow on the handle bar is a little week, but I have not broke one in years. Use the harnass when tugging the saw out of a pinched cut or your going to eventually snap off the handle bar. Keep the screen clean or install a courser one, I use drain screen. Clean the air filter every 8 tanks. Use sharp blades, don't use the saw like and axe whacking at the bigger stems, ease into the cut. Whacking is hard on the shaft, clutch and angle gear. I've only busted one shaft and clutch over the years. Set the carburetor according to the manual and leave it alone. Usually when you lose power it's lack of air (air filter/muffler screen).

We use the chisel tooth - 'maxi blades'. Make sure it's a 'maxi blade'. It won't have a rounded tooth front. In other words, there are two types of chisel tooth, get the right one. ;D Most of them come from Sweden, Stihl come from Japan. I actually like the Stihl blade better, holds an edge longer. Although last year, they had some too hard, and the teeth would break. Had a recall on them.

Proper thinning is done the hard way, no short cuts. ;D

[GuyInHuntsville]

Thanks SwampDonkey!! Where do I get the "maxi-blade"...A Stihl dealer? A lot comes up online for maxi-blade. Can I order it online?

Also, what do you mean by this? "Keep the screen clean or install a courser one, I use drain screen."

I don't know about your Stihl but my Husky is all plastic where the handle bars connect and I bet it could break if not careful. The other thing I don't like is that it's specifically designed for a right hander  :'( (I'm a lefty) so I'll have to get used to it being on my right side...I don't think there's any way to use it on my left side the way the handle bar mount angles off to the right.

[thenorthman]

that makes two wrong handed machinist I know, now I need to meet a blind one and my life will be complete...

As far as off handing power tools, You may be able to switch the handle bar over, probably void the warranty.

I really wouldn't advice doing so, the blade turns clockwise and if you try to run it wrong handed you'll be catching nearly everything it throws in the shins and points upward...

Most power tools are made for right handed use.

Speaking of machining do you poney up for the wrong handed calipers and mics?

[GuyInHuntsville]

that makes two wrong handed machinist I know, now I need to meet a blind one and my life will be complete...

As far as off handing power tools, You may be able to switch the handle bar over, probably void the warranty.

I really wouldn't advice doing so, the blade turns clockwise and if you try to run it wrong handed you'll be catching nearly everything it throws in the shins and points upward...

Most power tools are made for right handed use.

Speaking of machining do you poney up for the wrong handed calipers and mics?

hahaha! A blind machinist would make headline news :D Or even a blind logger!!

I didn't even know there were southpaw mics ...Been machining for about 19 years...Not a master machinist, just the basic lathes, mills (and CNC mill) and grinders refurbishing oil refinery equip components in Houston.

I try my best to get along in this right hand world ;D

[Skip]

I have become a believer in the can premix ,its pricey BUT I have noticed easier starts and more Power good gas and Most importantly NO ethanol . I use Trufuel , but husky and echo make it to. I  run it in Huskys 268 372 336 and my Husky weed eater and blower. Give it a try it might convert you ;D

[Dave Shepard]

VP Racing fuels also sells it. I've seen it at the local NAPA. $75 for a 5 gallon can. 50:1 High octane, no ethanol.

[pine]

Do you have any problems clearing with your Stihl brushcutter? Probably very labor intensive....Do you experience a lot of kickback from the blade? Can you recommend a good blade?

The Stihl FS550 was replaced with the FS560 as the 450 and 350 were replaced by the 460 and 360.  Stihl's never ending number update as they update their equipment lines.  I have two Stihl brushcutters that I use.  No problems with either one and I have no idea of the hours that I have on them but there are a lot.  My dealer said they had never seen the metal attach point (where the harness connects) wear out, not break but wear, and I looked at them and said what do you expect with the number of hours on this thing. 
I used to use the Stihl chisel tooth blade exclusively.  It could be resharpened which was nice.  Part numbers were 41197134200 and 41107134204 depending on which one you wanted.  I have never heard of the "maxi-blade" that SD referred to so it may be new or only available up in Canada.  A couple of years back I started to use a carbide tip chisel blade made by Champion Cutter and like them a lot.  I have pretty much stopped using the Stihl chisel blade and switched to the Champion carbide.

Labor intensive, yes but it is very therapeutic.  Working in the woods is always a good thing and your footprint is so much less using a hand brushcutter compared to bringing in big equipment and damaging other stiff that you wanted to save.

[pine]

I will try to upload pictures of the two blades so that you can see the carbide vs the standard.

Standard Stihl chisel blade



 

Carbide tip chisel blade



 

[sealark37]

Look for a marina or place close to the water to find ethanol-free gas.  I have a 40 year old Mac 10-10 and a 30 year old Husky that have always burned 100:1 oil mix.  Mix it and measure it carefully.  Works a treat.  Regards, Clark

[BargeMonkey]

 We doctor our gas pretty good, fuel stabilizer, lead additive and try to run 93 whenever possible and dont have an issue. Seen 5-7 gallons of saw gas go in 1 day with 3 guys cutting, buying the pre-mix I would be broke.

[David-L]

Depending on what blade you buy, there is a tool to set the Kerf , this can help as the blade tooth gets smaller after sharpening multiple times and doesn't take such a big bite until you set the Kerf. I run a 45cc Dolmar brush saw and these babys can save your back in the right application. Good luck and welcome to the forum. I will post a pic of my Kerf tool this evening. Good luck.

                                  David l

[GuyInHuntsville]

I have pretty much stopped using the Stihl chisel blade and switched to the Champion carbide.

Labor intensive, yes but it is very therapeutic.  Working in the woods is always a good thing and your footprint is so much less using a hand brushcutter compared to bringing in big equipment and damaging other stiff that you wanted to save.

I totally agree and I know I'll have fun...and get a lot of excercise too. Plus the satisfaction of knowing I did it myself. Also I was thinking about there are several fox, rabbit and armadillo holes (only 1 neighbor, says he feeds the foxes) and I should probably not disturb their habitat too much. IF I call in a hydro-mulcher it'll only be to get the driveway cleared so we can get into the place quicker and not have to park on the side of the highway.

Thanks for posting the photos. The first one looks exactly like the blade that came with the Husky minus the 2 little holes. But I like the carbide tipped one. I would think it would stay sharper longer. I'll be seaching for the Champion blade...Any chance you have a link to where you can order it?

[GuyInHuntsville]

Depending on what blade you buy, there is a tool to set the Kerf , this can help as the blade tooth gets smaller after sharpening multiple times and doesn't take such a big bite until you set the Kerf. I run a 45cc Dolmar brush saw and these babys can save your back in the right application. Good luck and welcome to the forum. I will post a pic of my Kerf tool this evening. Good luck.

                                  David l

Thanks for the info David-L! I'll watch for the pic.

[GuyInHuntsville]

I run a 45cc Dolmar brush saw and these babys can save your back in the right application.                                  David l

I like that the Dolmar is fully adjustable and metal where the handle bars meet the shaft. If I purchase another brushcutter (for a friend to use helping me) I'd be very inclined to get one of these and use it myself so I can be wrong-handed again 8)...Right handed friend could use the Husky ;D


 

By the way, thanks to everyone for all the info and about how you mix your fuel and what fuel you use :P

[SwampDonkey]

We don't use either blade pictured by pine. We use these (part # below), which will cut a lot better than the regular chisel tooth blade pictured. Any dealer should be able to get them or just go to Stihl and get them. All brands work on any brush cutter designed for them.

It may be possible your brush cutter is not strong enough for these, check with your dealer. They are for the professional line of brush cutters. I had to educate the lad a little bit last summer at the local dealer on the proper blade to order in. He had the one's pine pictured, they don't make the cut, so to speak. ;) It's like night and day, the amount of ground you can cut in a day. ;D That may be the only chisel tooth models your saw works with however.

If you look for the 'maxi-blade', make sure you get the blade with the right centre hole size. Newer model Husky saws have larger centre hole. My FS550, and as well as the 560 saw, uses the 20 mm blade hole. ;D

Stihl 'Maxi Blade' part# 4000 713 4207 . They are the most cost effect we find. Price is $18.00-23.00 around here, depends on brand.

I think Bailey's sells them or an OEM equivalent.

http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.axd/ProductDetails?edp_no=167182&CAT=

I've never wore out a Stihl attachment point on a saw and I've cut probably 1000 acres. I do trash a harnass every year or two though. The thigh pad usually. ;D

You don't need the expensive tooth setter, just get the file guide, has one built in, way cheaper. And most of the time unless you in 'rough ground' you won't ever use it unless the hardwood is denser species like beech, oak, hickory. Too much set will work against you to, just follow the 'limits' on the tool or your going to be tossing that blade away and reaching for a brand new carton wrapped blade. ;D

The screen I was mentioning is in the muffler.

100:1 mix is going to void the warranty when it burns up the saw. A brush saw is wound out at higher constant RPM's than a chainsaw. Oh it will take it for quite awhile, but when you start hearing the bearings rattle your done. ;D

[GuyInHuntsville]

It may be possible your brush cutter is not strong enough for these, check with your dealer. They are for the professional line of brush cutters. I had to educate the lad a little bit last summer at the local dealer on the proper blade to order in. He had the one's pine pictured, they don't make the cut, so to speak. ;) It's like night and day, the amount of ground you can cut in a day. ;D That may be the only chisel tooth models your saw works with however.

If you look for the 'maxi-blade', make sure you get the blade with the right centre hole size. Newer model Husky saws have larger centre hole. My FS550, and as well as the 560 saw, uses the 20 mm blade hole. ;D

Thank you SwampDonkey for all the detail. Hopefully my Husky will be powerful enough for the various blades you guys are showing me...It's the 2nd in line model from Husky's top-of-the-line one. It's 45.7cc with 2.8hp and weighs 18.3lbs. It does require the blade with the larger hole. I was told it'll slice a 4" pine "like butter".
I checked out the specs for your saw and it's quite a beast and the price but I realize you get what you pay for
I'll stay with the factory recommended 50:1 mixture but no where in my area has ethanol free gas :'(
I really enjoy studying everyone's post...At the moment I'm researching the blades and files/guides/tooth setter thingies ;D

[Dave Shepard]

I converted a Stihl FS108 to left hand for a coworker once. He used to really grip about being a lefty until I asked him if he wanted me to convert a round point shovel to left hand. :D In most instances, it probably isn't safe to try and switch. I've seen guys using chainsaws lefty, and that is just scary looking.

[SwampDonkey]

Here's the file guide from Stihl.



Blades

[GuyInHuntsville]

Thanks so much SwampDonkey!...I'll be visiting the Stihl dealer (one 2 miles from my house) armed with this.

I've seen guys using chainsaws lefty, and that is just scary looking.

That's me :-[ but you bring up a good point about safety. Since these tools were designed for right handers it would probably be best to use them that way. It's very awkward for a lefty but I'll try...Heck I learned to play guitar right handed...Guess it's all in how we teach ourselves to do something we soon get used to it. Same with the bad habit you pointed out.

[SwampDonkey]

Make sure you get a 7/32" round file and a flat file for them blades. The 7/32" is the sharpening file the other just cuts back the tooth to renew the blade for the next round of filings.   ;D

[GuyInHuntsville]

Make sure you get a 7/32" round file and a flat file for them blades. The 7/32" is the sharpening file the other just cuts back the tooth to renew the blade for the next round of filings.   ;D

Thanks SwampDonkey!! I'm getting all set up thanks to you guys....

Since this thread is winding down I wanted to let everyone know that I really appreciate y'all helping a greenhorn out. I'm learning a lot on this wonderful site. Eventually I'll be able to help a greenhorn out ;D

I'll be searching this site for info about proper forest thinning. I ordered a book about east Texas plants and trees to study...So I won't go to our land and just start blindly sawing down whatever's in my path The neighbor says there's a lot of colorful trees and shrubs there during the fall so I'll need to learn how to identify what's what...Tons of wild life too so I don't want to ruin things too much for them as well...Can probably make the land more hospitable for them hopefully

[pine]

We don't use either blade pictured by pine. We use these (part # below), which will cut a lot better than the regular chisel tooth blade pictured. Any dealer should be able to get them or just go to Stihl and get them. All brands work on any brush cutter designed for them.

It may be possible your brush cutter is not strong enough for these, check with your dealer. They are for the professional line of brush cutters. I had to educate the lad a little bit last summer at the local dealer on the proper blade to order in. He had the one's pine pictured, they don't make the cut, so to speak. ;) It's like night and day, the amount of ground you can cut in a day. ;D That may be the only chisel tooth models your saw works with however.

If you look for the 'maxi-blade', make sure you get the blade with the right centre hole size. Newer model Husky saws have larger centre hole. My FS550, and as well as the 560 saw, uses the 20 mm blade hole. ;D

Stihl 'Maxi Blade' part# 4000 713 4207 . They are the most cost effect we find. Price is $18.00-23.00 around here, depends on brand.

I think Bailey's sells them or an OEM equivalent.

http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.axd/ProductDetails?edp_no=167182&CAT=

I've never wore out a Stihl attachment point on a saw and I've cut probably 1000 acres. I do trash a harnass every year or two though. The thigh pad usually. ;D

You don't need the expensive tooth setter, just get the file guide, has one built in, way cheaper. And most of the time unless you in 'rough ground' you won't ever use it unless the hardwood is denser species like beech, oak, hickory. Too much set will work against you to, just follow the 'limits' on the tool or your going to be tossing that blade away and reaching for a brand new carton wrapped blade. ;D

The screen I was mentioning is in the muffler.

100:1 mix is going to void the warranty when it burns up the saw. A brush saw is wound out at higher constant RPM's than a chainsaw. Oh it will take it for quite awhile, but when you start hearing the bearings rattle your done. ;D

Always interested in another blade possibility I looked up your 4000 713 4207 part number and found it several places mostly in the UK and Canada but every picture that was shown had the exact same profile as the blade I have from Stihl that I put in the upper picture in my post and matches the pictures that are shown for that part number 4110 713 4204. 

You stated that you don't use that blade thus your blade must look different than the one that comes up with your part number in my search.  I presume the web site pictures are wrong. 

Do you have a picture that you can post so that I can see the profile of your maxi 4000 713 4207 blade.

Thanks

[SwampDonkey]

It's not the same pine. The one you have has that rounded gullet at the base of the tooth. That profile is a PITA. ;)

On a 'maxi-blade' (below) the leading edge is square. This blade has had multiple filings, but fresh out of the carton that edge is square with a tiny notch because they are pre-sharpened there.



The market maybe more Europe and Canada because we manual thin a lot of ground up here. Less than we used to, but still a lot. Private woodlot thinning is declining quite a bit because the ground is mostly thinned that's going to get thinned for awhile.

[Joe Hillmann]

thecfarm, I expect to be using it for hours on end...Probably 6 hours a day on the weekends, maybe even more, pretty much continuously.
So you use super unleaded and mix your own fuel? My cutter is 50:1 but should I add a little extra oil to the gas? I'd like this tool to last a long time...Pretty expensive for me.

You should not add extra oil to the gas. 

If the manufacture says to run it at 50:1 that is what you should run it at to get the best life out of it.   Engine manufactures do a lot of engineering and testing to design engines to run on the mix they suggest.

Adding extra oil to the gas means the engine is getting less gas and is running lean, which means it will run hotter than it should.  If a two cycle starts running hot the first thing many  people do is to put more oil in the gas which just makes the problem worse.  If you combine running lean and carbon deposits on the head from the extra oil it is possible to destroy a 2 cycle engine.

[SwampDonkey]

I went digging through my gear and found a new blade and a carton that compares the regular chisel tooth like yours on the left and the more aggressive 'maxi-blade' on the right.



Maxi-blade below



This is Carlton brand and the bar code # reads "0681355572543"  also made in Sweden. Maxi-225-20C  max rpm 13000

[GuyInHuntsville]

Thanks Joe!!

I went digging through my gear and found a new blade and a carton that compares the regular chisel tooth like yours on the left and the more aggressive 'maxi-blade' on the right.

Just a side note...From a machinist's perspective the blade on the left has a "positive rake" cutting angle and the blade on the right has a "nuetral rake" cutting angle. Metal cutting tools ground this way: The positive one will cut sharper but dull quicker...The nuetral one requires a little more HP but will stay sharp longer. I think this would apply to wood as well.

[GuyInHuntsville]

SwampDonkey, just curious...Why do you not prefer carbide tipped blades? Is there a draw back other than resharpening isn't very practical?

[SwampDonkey]

Price, sharpening and lots of rocks up here. And I never see them on the shelves. :D

[thecfarm]

Where's Al when I need him.  :D 

[SwampDonkey]

He knows better. ;D

[SwampDonkey]

I was just talking to a fellow thinner today about them carbide blades. The consensus was that it wasn't going to happen. ;) Boss messaged me today, has the thinner's itch already.  ;D :D

[SwampDonkey]

I didn't think of this before until someone mentioned it tonight. Try the 8" diameter blades in that lighter saw. You'll probably get more snap out of that lighter saw. We use as big a blade we can get here, the 9" because we often are in 'big wood'. Actually bigger than we should be with our saws, but that's life.

[GuyInHuntsville]

I didn't think of this before until someone mentioned it tonight. Try the 8" diameter blades in that lighter saw. You'll probably get more snap out of that lighter saw. We use as big a blade we can get here, the 9" because we often are in 'big wood'. Actually bigger than we should be with our saws, but that's life.

Thanks!...I'll see if an 8" would fit. As I recall, the metal guard on my Husky is fairly close to the edge of the blade and didn't seem to allow for a larger blade. I'll be seeing if I can make a part/bracket to extend the metal guard a little further out. The blade it came with seemed kind of small to me, possibly 7 1/4". I'd check now but I'm away from home. Looks like I'll finally be trying out/using my saw all weekend starting tomorrow  8) as my payin' job is gettin' slow. ;D
Monday I'll let y'all know how it went.

[SwampDonkey]

You might have to order a different deflector for your saw. Saws have different deflectors you can get. I would not jury rig it, that's asking for trouble. Make sure you have a harnass on or your going to be picking up your saw off the ground all day or worst.

[GuyInHuntsville]

I just thought I'd let y'all know how I did this past weekend with my new Husky brushcutter....AMAZING tool. My friend and the neighbor -and me- were shocked by what I was taking down. 5" pine was no problem, 5 seconds cutting each side. 1" saplings like they weren't even there (zing, zing). Learned to slow it down to stop the zinging, 1 second vs. a split second. ;D Mostly cutting pines, sweetgums, oaks and yaupons and the limbs off fallen large trees. Accomplished a lot in a very short time. I fallowed SwampDonkey's advice on cutting technique. And used it right handed which was easy to get used to. I got better at controlling it by the 2nd tank of gas. One thing I had to get used to was the blade shimmy/vibration at certain speeds or accelerating. :-\ It made me think the blade was coming loose or bent. In the next few days I'll upload some photos of what we cleared, 95% with this tool....Chainsaw took down the few big ones. The hardest part of it all was piling up everything we cut. I used 50:1, 87 octane with ethanol and Husky oil....Will switch to 92 octane. I don't have any regrets buying it BUT knowing what I know now I wouldn't have any reservation paying $1300 for the Stihl professional model....Worth it. This Husky is plenty adequate for me though.

[SwampDonkey]

Yeah, that vibration is coming off the shaft in the tube. There is no centre bearing on the shaft so you feel it in the handle grips some. After 100 acres you'll get over that part. :D

[pine]

It's not the same pine. The one you have has that rounded gullet at the base of the tooth. That profile is a PITA. ;)

On a 'maxi-blade' (below) the leading edge is square. This blade has had multiple filings, but fresh out of the carton that edge is square with a tiny notch because they are pre-sharpened there.



The market maybe more Europe and Canada because we manual thin a lot of ground up here. Less than we used to, but still a lot. Private woodlot thinning is declining quite a bit because the ground is mostly thinned that's going to get thinned for awhile.

Your statement about the profile on my style Stihl chisel tooth blade being a PITA is why I switched to the Champion Carbide blades.

Well my Stihl dealer has been trying to find the Stihl maxi blade with the part number you quoted and Stihl has told him it is not available in the US.  He worked every angle he could but no such luck.  Do not know and could not determine if it is a liability or market forces or whatever but not on our side of the border.  Shipping from the UK distributor I found would be a killer.  The Carlton I found on line showed the same profile that I already have.  I will have to see if the other Carlton part number you listed is available anywhere on our side. 

Is it identical in profile to the Stihl maxi or is it just similar?

[SwampDonkey]

Stihl are usually made in Japan, but I have seen some batches from Sweden in a bronze colored carton instead of the usual grey. All brands I see here other than Stihl are all from Sweden. I wouldn't doubt, although I don't know, they come from the same plant. But yes they are all the same profile, not just similar looking. These blades are used all over Europe and Canada. But we all thin (PCT) a lot more land to. Can't imagine a liability issue. Never heard of anyone cutting themselves thinning unless they were dumb enough to stick their hand in the blade while it was spinning to remove a stick. ;)

Amazon.com had them. I know there was a recall last year, so maybe theirs were in the recall. I have not stopped by the dealer yet to see if they have new stock.

http://www.amazon.com/Stihl-Brushcutter-Blade-Model-Chisel/dp/B00FOF9B06/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

[GuyInHuntsville]

Everywhere I've found SwampDonkey's blade online is sold out. But my saw has a 1" arbor. This is the blade I'm currently using and it really cuts smooth:


 

Amazon is where I bought a 2-pack:

http://www.amazon.com/RENEGADE-BLADE%C2%AE-Carbide-Bruschcutter-Blades/dp/B004OTCOSE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1399643239&sr=8-3&keywords=renegade+blade

I'll be looking for the blade SwampDonkey is talking about but with a 1" arbor. I'm still looking at the one's pine recommended.

These brushcutters are really great tools! The only minor inconvenience about using it is the tree stub left behind.

Thanks,
Guy

[SwampDonkey]

If your not hitting rocks or mud mounds with it than you'll probably be fine for awhile. ;D Once you hit a nice rock, your done. ;)