cat won't start

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

No worrys mate  ;)  :D ;D I was pretty sure you'd be asking how id managed blowing a glowplug outa the head and through the bonnet  ;) Ill let you in on it anyway  ;) :D :DI was told by the owner the only way the bloody thing would start on a cold morning was to use Airostart and the glowplugs together which i wasnt too dang sure about  ??? :-\ :-\
well i tryed things his way and was back at the mill not long after id left looking for another glowplug as when id finally found the old one it had the thread stripped of it got another old one and bent the end of a csaw file and a magnet to fish the old thread out with out any going into the cyl head whacked the new/old one back in and away i went again   ;) :D :D :D :D ;D

Regards Chris

[backwoods sawyer]

Keep in mind that you are creating heat when you have the glow plug on and that bar that connects them to the power is a fusible link. It is better to cycle the glow plug multiple times with a cool down period of about double the time that they are on rather then to just extend the time that you have them on. Example: 20 sec on, 40 off, 20 on, 40 off, 20 on, verses on for 60 sec.

[bandmiller2]

I don't have experiance with a Cat but some glow plugs have a relay that leaves them on for a short period then when the light goes out you better crank or they will cool off quick.You can reglow them though by turning off the key and starting over.In outher words if you hold the key too long your cranking with a warm  glow plug not red hot.It was mentioned before but sometimes a bat. will have one bad or weak cell, plays hob with everything cold starting, same with a undercharged battery.Remember its always the simple things that will get ya.Frank C.

[coastlogger]

IMO double or triple glow plugging can be improved on. Think of it  how much air does that tiny glow really heat and after 40 secs off is there  really much heat left in cyl? On my ancient kubota powered forklift I experimented and found it more effective to crank engine over first   you get a bit of smoke  thats heat right?Now glow plug it and it starts right up.I believe there are way more total btus of heat put into cyls from that initial cranking than a first glow plugging. Havent tried this with other engines...
clgr

[woodmills1]

I finally got some time to check on the cat yesterday, no voltage at the glow plug bar

a quick look at the manual showed the works inside the box on the loader side of the engine.  A relay and a fusable link

upon inspection the link was burned through.  called indy to find out how to see if the relay was good.  told to check for power to the link with key on, found one side hot with key on

drove to the supply house that has helped me with fusables on the LT 40...sorry they say we no longer stock any links....anchient technology....

ordered link and spares, should be here tue or wed

thanks for all the hints and help

went to start the blue ox......and the honda wouldn't fire :D ???

[bandmiller2]

JM,if you know the amperage you can use a common automotive circuit breaker they come  20,30, 40, 50 amp est.or even the big two prong fuses.Frank C.

[pineywoods]

I found some up to 300 amp automotive breakers to replace the fuses on my mizer. They are used in the circuitry for the big boom boxes. Google circuit breakers.

[DirtCheapDrew]

Have you been having any problems with condensation (water) in the tank?
Most fuel gelling problems are usually mis-diagnosed water problems. Once a paper fuel filter element gets wet with water, it just never seems to flow properly again. Getting smoke is a sign of getting fuel. But you're not firing for one reason or another. It should fire on ether but be carefull not to cycle the glow plugs after giving it a snort. We use "melt-down" to liquify fuel problems in cold weather. Meltdown works best if it's warmed before dumping into a cold tank or filter housing. If the fuel level in the tank has been kept low, you've got some condensation. If your transfer tank doesn't have a water seperator on it, you're getting water. If you use meltdown or other similar product, dump the water seperator and fuel filter and add clean fuel and some additive to both. Warming the oil helps too. Thicker oil or dirty engine oil will call for more torque to turn over that cold engine. We add 10% kerosene to our off-road equipment fuel tanks in the winter and never have problems, 10-20% kerosene seems to get us closer to the #1 diesel we used to buy. Todays #2 diesel fuel seems to have a much lower cetane rating than what we bought as #2 years ago. Amzoil cetane booster is expensive but it works wonders and will give you a great performance boost. The hotter and cleaner combustion will reduce visible smoke. One of my instructors used to say "it's cheaper to keep the tank full, than to keep it empty", most of the kids in that class couldn't see what he meant but these problems are proof he was right. Full tanks don't get much condensation because there's little air volume. Hope this helps. Drew.

[sgschwend]

My Perkins uses a automotive fuse, pretty simple and easy to check/replace.  If you are bleeding line the wrench can short the bar out and pop the fuse.  I think mine is 20 amp (three cylinder).

[Reddog]

Just in case someone searches and wonders how it was fixed.

got out there today and replaced the fusable link, one lug was a bit loose so maybe the burn out reason.  Cleaned all contacts and tighened it up.  cycled the glow plugs for 20 seconds and off, checked the link it was fine.  20 seconds off then 20 seconds on she fired right up. 8)

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,42098.0.html

[woodmills1]

thanks redog I forgot to post here