dimensional lumber

[jb616]

I seen a post in the past with @Magicman about steps toward sawing dimensional lumber but I can't find it now. believe it or not, I have only sawed hardwoods so far and have yet to produce 2x4, 2x6, 4x4, etc. and I want to find the most efficient way to do that with my manual LT-30. Does anyone have a link?  Thanks in advance. 

[WV Sawmiller]

   I guess I am confused about this question. What is different about sawing full size vs dimensional lumber? You just saw one a little thinner than the other. Long ago I made a cheat sheet with my starting marks so I set my set works accordingly then end exactly on a desired thickness board on the bottom without having to make an extra cut or get at hick or thin board left over.

   I assume most true dimensional lumber was sawed pretty close to full size, KD then planed to the final dimensions. I'll monitor this thread and see if I have been missing something.

[btulloh]

The main thing is allowing for shrinkage when drying if you're trying to end up with framing lumber that will intermix with store bought.  This is species dependent and also depends on grain orientation, but with a little thought and planning, it works out ok.

I've sawed a fair amount of SYP to use rough, and I saw about 1/8 over per 4"of width.  That has worked out pretty well.  Thickness, when it's across the grain, I allow quite a bit less - maybe 1/16 at most on the 2" dimension of 2x lumber.  

Grain orientation affects everything, so it's not an exact science.  If you need exact, KD and plane.  It's worked out close enough though, and I don't have any trouble mixing in a piece of store-bought when I need to.

There's been a lot written about this, so maybe MM will add the link to his thread for a more in-depth discussion when he gets out of the sand pit today.

[Resonator]

Look up the "Sequence of sawing" topic from January 2018, in Reply #9 MM has pictures and explanation of capturing the pith into one 2x, and the saw through technique.

[Magicman]

Thanks Resonator, that saved me some time looking up one of the many times that I have used that illustration.  LINK

As has been mentioned, it matters not what actual dimension that you are sawing.  You must identify your target before opening the first face whether mentally or otherwise.

Also, species matters.  All of the framing lumber that I saw is from SYP.

[WDH]

When sawing framing lumber, it is essential to understand the properties of the juvenile core and the pith, and to place them in the boards accordingly.  They should always be centered in the boards, never on one edge.

[Don P]

I'd rather accept bow than crook as you think about the above. Bow I can usually take out with sheathing of blocking.Crook, there isn't much you can do other than flip it crown up to a point or cut it up.

There is a table at the end of this document with dressed green and dry softwood dimensions of common framing lumber;
http://www.woodbin.com/ref/lumber-dimensions/

[Magicman]

Absolutely bow rather than crook.  I always orient my logs lying flat generally with the "horns" toward the loader and saw through from the "hump" side.

Good point WDH.  I will not saw framing lumber from quick growing "plantation" Pine.  My favorite to saw is large Shortleaf Pine.

[moodnacreek]

In the case of 2x4 to be 1 1/2 x 3 1/2, they are not worth sawing as they are cheap to buy and done on automatic machinery.

[Magicman]

Depends.  If you have a sale for your trees, then no.

1) If the trees are too large to market and must be removed anyway, then yes.  

2) If they are beetle killed they are not marketable so to salvage something from your timber, then yes.


 
3) If the customer simply wants to build his home from his own trees such as the above, then yes.  These trees will be ready for me to saw in September/October.

I have sawn many hundreds of Mbf of framing lumber for the above three reasons.

 

[Wintergreen Mountain]

   I made a 7 quarter scale (1 3/4" thick) to use on my framing cuts. When the lumber dries, the thickness is very close to the 1 1/2" thickness of dimensional western cut lumber. It matches very close when I use western cut lumber with it. Width is cut to 1 3/4"- 3 3/4"-5 3/4" (accordingly).

[jb616]

I made a 7 quarter scale (1 3/4" thick) to use on my framing cuts. When the lumber dries, the thickness is very close to the 1 1/2" thickness of dimensional western cut lumber. It matches very close when I use western cut lumber with it. Width is cut to 1 3/4"- 3 3/4"-5 3/4" (accordingly).

I played around with it on a ash log yesterday and came to the conclusion that what i needed was a "7 quarter scale"  do you have a pic of yours?  I also need a new regular scale as the numbers are getting hard to read. A 7 quarter scale would really help though as my mill is totally manual except for the feed.

[trapper]

would a 6  quarter hardwood scale work?  I got a stick on one from woodmizer that I put on a cheap aluminum yardstick. Can change from inch to hardwood in minutes. That would give you 1 5/8 on 6 quarter.

[alan gage]

would a 6  quarter hardwood scale work?  I got a stick on one from woodmizer that I put on a cheap aluminum yardstick. Can change from inch to hardwood in minutes. That would give you 1 5/8 on 6 quarter.

I bought a 6/4 scale from Cooks for that reason. Haven't had a chance to actually use it yet though.
Alan

[trapper]

Stick on hardwood scale from woodmizer has 4  5  6  8  quarter marks all 1/8 in over.

[jb616]

I have the original Woodmizer scale that has 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, and 8/4. I think a 7/4 would be perfect for 2x4's,6's, etc. I tried the 6/4 but it was right at 1 3/8+ and I think I want to be at 1 5/8. 

[Wintergreen Mountain]

   jb616 and members,
 
   I finally remembered to take a picture of my modified saw scale with 7/4 scale added to it. 
   Leon

       

 

[customsawyer]

I have the original Woodmizer scale that has 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, and 8/4. I think a 7/4 would be perfect for 2x4's,6's, etc. I tried the 6/4 but it was right at 1 3/8+ and I think I want to be at 1 5/8.

You should be able to turn that scale over. On the back is the hardwood scale. 6/4 will be 1 5/8".

[barbender]

6/4 scale should cut out a full 1 1/2".

[Southside]

As I understand it in softwood yes, but in hardwood wouldn't it would be 1 5/8" actual?

[DWyatt]

1 5/8" is actual cut for the 6/4 hardwood scale on a Woodmizer. I just cut a bunch this past weekend at 6/4.

[customsawyer]

6/4 hardwood is 1 5/8"

[jb616]

I have the original Woodmizer scale that has 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, and 8/4. I think a 7/4 would be perfect for 2x4's,6's, etc. I tried the 6/4 but it was right at 1 3/8+ and I think I want to be at 1 5/8.

You should be able to turn that scale over. On the back is the hardwood scale. 6/4 will be 1 5/8".

I will take it off and check. It is 1984 vintage and faded, so I think I will buy a new one. Thanks everyone for your help!  I did cut some 2x4s and 2x6s 2 weeks ago but it is time consuming on a manual mill without a proper scale. I basically hand measured each cut to get the proper dimension. 

[Quebecnewf]

 

 I cut a lot of 2x material . I saw oversized and air dry a bit . Then pass it through my single sided planer first then the three sided planer to finish the job.

A 2x4 is first sawed 1 5/8 by 3 3/4 . Dried a few weeks .single sided .planer brings thickness to 1 9/16 . Then three sided planer makes it 3 1/2 by 1 1/2".

Quebecnewf

[kantuckid]

  jb616 and members,

  I finally remembered to take a picture of my modified saw scale with 7/4 scale added to it.
  Leon

       

Is the picture in the forum? 
I'm sawing for 2x6's(to be dressed on one side then T&G'vd) and would like to see a chart & scale for 1 5/8 x 5 5/8. 
For now I'm undecided between 1 5/8" vs 1 3/4" thickness, am sawing pine, thanks!