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Did someone say hard?

Started by drobertson, October 21, 2014, 07:59:01 PM

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drobertson

this has been the case for a few days now.  Dead red and white oak.  This one got my attention, but wmz prevailed..


 


 
checking for any possible metal stain, stock was available.


  

  

  

  

 
The yield was not bad for a dead one, but will say,  I really don't like 1x6" patterns on certain logs,
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Dave Shepard

White oak can be tough. What band did you use? I usually go to a 4° for the hard stuff. I did some resawing of a some old locust cants. It cut great, and the band could take the HP, which is good, because it wanted it. :D
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

drobertson

Dave, I used a resharpened! ;D cooks super sharp face grind on these.  I did start slabing a lil heavy due to breaking off stuff.  Those who know, know what I mean.   done, and glad of it.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Peter Drouin

I cut w and r oak with 7°x 55x1¼ , And it cuts like w pine ;D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Dave Shepard

Do you run 7° for everything now? I've been thinking of switching.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

POSTON WIDEHEAD

On dry W & R Oak, Maple, Pecan and Hickory......I simply use the 4°, without looking back.  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

drobertson

I reckon in the northern climates, everything cuts like white pine ;D,, I have my grinder set some where between 5 and 10 degrees.  it works,   the cooks super sharps and the kasco blades are pretty even in my book.  Not much blade breakage, with well over a 1000 bdft per blade, resharpened ones have bumped 2K,  not pushing, just sawing,  hard to pull a blade when it's working.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Peter Drouin

Quote from: Dave Shepard on October 21, 2014, 08:27:14 PM
Do you run 7° for everything now? I've been thinking of switching.





Yes, I tried 1½ 7x55 and don't like them. They swim more. 1¼x 7x 55 is all I use. And with the Wood Mizer CBN sharpener in oil there easy to keep razor sharp.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

terrifictimbersllc

Thats a 4° if I ever saw one.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Andries

Dave Shepard asked if seven degree blades were good as a 'standard' to run for most all types of wood . . . .
Quote from: Dave Shepard on October 21, 2014, 08:27:14 PM
Do you run 7° for everything now? I've been thinking of switching.
I switched over to sevens after reading Bibbymans thread on this a few years ago.
Turned out to be great advice as my mill only sees the sevens now.
However, I've only got an Onan with 24 horses, so in winter and with frozen hardwoods, I'll drop down to four degree blades.


Now it's easy to keep track of blades, Sevens in Spring, Summer and Fall. When it's DanG cold out, pull on the long johns and use the four degree bands.
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

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