New member...new building

[khd]

Good morning everyone...My name is Kevin from MI.  Been reading the forum for quite awile and finally decided to join to share my project and ask a few questions along the way.  I have always wanted to cut my own frame but life got the best of me and now that the kids are grown and and we are financially sound the job occupies too much time to allow me the time to do it myself.  I decided I needed a small building for the tractor and have always been a traditionalist so I designed the building I wanted and got with the Amish in OH. to cut it.  It finally arrived yesterday.

It is basically a 12 x 16 main building (Sobon style) with a 6' lean-to.  10' sidwalls, 12/12 roof and half loft all cut from green white oak.  I also had them do the siding, shiplapped hemlock and 4/4 oak for the loft flooring.  I am attaching a couple of renderings of the design.  It doesn't show joint details as I left that up to the framers.  The people I had cut it specialize in large frames in the traditional utilitarian style and when I went to see their work, I was very impressed.




See beenthere's post 2 down for the frame elevation (thanks BT)

Well as I said, it arrived yesterday and once again, the job and now winter are probably going to prevent me from raising it this year and I have decided to wait until spring. My question is, the frame came bundled in three stacks.  What do I need to do to overwinter the frame?  It is sitting up off the ground on 4x's.  Should I unbundle it and sticker between each layer or should I leave the bundles in tact.  I will be putting pallets on top and then tarping it.  But some advice would be helpful as I don't want a mess next spring.  Any help would be appreciated.



Regards,
Kevin

[beenthere]

Welcome to the forum.
Sure would like to see the pics, and as you already know, we need 'em in your gallery. It's not hard, just follow the guidelines in the "Behind the Forum" board.

If me, I'd try to get the frame up soon as possible. Waiting will result in some warping, and it's a hassle even if it is small amount. Maybe get the suppliers (Amish) to erect it for you. Then any misfits will be taken care of.
Stickering otherwise for good airflow around the pieces is your next best bet. Solid stacking will cause mold and mildew and staining, and when stickering, I'd suggest a solution of bleach sprayed on for extra protection.  Allowing green pieces to dry on one side only, means shrinkage on one side, and certain warping. I even sticker lumber that I buy at the lumber yard even if I am only going to use it the next day. Just the way I am, otherwise overnight, the top pieces can warp. Probably all seen it happen.

[beenthere]

kdh
I see your pics are in the gallery now. Nice job.  You can 'modify' your first post and paste them in there at any time.
Here is one.

[khd]

Here is what I have......

Frame Stacked


Frame Stacked - 2


Siding Stacked


Close up of Joints



Kevin

[Don P]

We've recently finished assembling a log home kit that a family had bought thinking of doing the work themselves. The package was delivered August 05 and we started assembly Feb'06. Although they had the materials stickered and had attempted cover, the staining and degrade were pretty objectionable to me. This also left the building open through this past summer. The spores had gotten a foothold the first season and bloomed well the second. I've worked on projects where the materials were stored indoors for a couple of years, much brighter but a fair amount of distortion. My feeling is that once machined, its time to assemble. If you must store it, it would be best under at least a shelter. We've borrowed space in nearby garages and barns on more than one occasion.

[MSU_Keith]

Welcome to the forum Kevin from MI.  Just wondering where your located.  There's a few members in Michigan who might be willing to lend a hand in the raising.  If your close to me in SE lower, I'd be happy stop in and help just for the learning opportunity (and the food). 8)

With enough strong backs and a little planning the frame could probably be up in day, although your trusses might be a little tricky.

[thecfarm]

I can't offer to help,you're along ways from my place,but I can welcome you to the forum.

[khd]

Thanks all for the welcome.

Don:

The intent is certainly to get it up right away or at least through the winter.  I just want to be proactive in case something happens and I can't.  Unfortunately my job responsibilities are with me 24/7 and split between here and FL.  I could have someone raise it for me as that was certainly an option when I contracted the frame but since I didn't have time to cut it, I promised myself I would raise and finish it. 

Keith: 

I'm in Belleville so we are pretty close to neighbors.  I've put all the friends and family that I built "stick frame" buildings for on notice that raising weekend they are mine.  But you are more than welcome to stop by for some eats.  I'll let you know when it's going to happen.  No offense here but your "nic" and your location kind of create an oxymoron...MSU in A2. :D

[khd]

Well....I am slowly progressing and am about to start assembling bents for raising but I have discovered a problem and need some advise.  I have the sills set and with the lean-to sill in place it blocks access to driving the front and rear right post anchor pegs.  See picture:



My question is: will I be able to raise the main part of the frame drive the post anchor pegs and then be able to set in the lean-to bents (see frame elevation drawing at start of thread) or should I do ????  As I have never raised a frame before I am afraid I will not be able to raise the lean-to with the main frame already up even though the lean to is only two bents. 

Help!

Regards,
Kevin 

[Jim_Rogers]

You won't have to worry about missing one or two pegs for the bottom of the posts.
It's not a big deal.
You could nail a strap on the outside of the post down to the sill which is bolted to the foundation and the siding will  cover the strap.
Raise the frame bents as usual and then place the tie and brace to go to the lean-to into the main frame post. Drive the pegs into the lean to tie just a little, or just enough to hold it in place. And with the brace there it should hang ok. Also, insert the girt, support with temporary boards if needed.
Then stand up the lean to post and put in the second brace into the tie first as the lean to post is being raised. Then the tie and brace lower tenon will align with the lean to post.
Do this to the front corner and then back corner. Then drop on your plate with brace if it has them.

Hope this helps.

Jim Rogers

[khd]

Thanks Jim, I had got my mind so trained on front to back that it took your reply for me to rotate front to back.  I also have to thank you for your gin pole thread as I made my own, rigged it and it worked beautifully for the raising.  Here's the pole in action lifting a top plate (8x8x16 white oak nearly 10 ft. up)

[khd]

And here is the main frame all up.  Now I need to raise the lean-to and rafters

[Jim_Rogers]

Looks good, great job, keep the photos coming.....


Jim Rogers

[Stephen1]

looks good! You couldn't ask for better weather. We like the pictures.

[DSO]

Hi Kevin, I'm new to the forum too, first post  :.  I'm from Michigan too, Lansing area, just wondering where you had your frame cut?  I'm looking to raise a 12X16' (Sobon garden shed).  I believe I can get the timber myslef but am open to all options.  Unfortunately my carpentry skills are limited and I have no interest in cutting the joints.  But I don't have a problem raising the structure myself.  Thanks in advance for any and all help.  Great forum!!