Another new guy

seabeejohn · May 12, 2018, 10:32:53 PM

Hello all.
I'm new to the forum, new to milling, new to owning/operating/building a bandsaw mill. I'm not new to wood... 25+ years as a carpenter/cabinet maker. I made a career change a half dozen years ago and entered the world of mechanical engineering.

I purchased 40 acres just inside Superior National Forest in Northern Minnesota last year. Raw land, plenty of old growth pine, birch, maple, & tamarack (larch). I'm developing the land for personal use and figured what the hell... I'll build my own mill.

I'm 80% on the build. Just the important parts left. Blade guides, drive train engagement, and blade sizing... as well as all the gear I need to hold and orient the logs.

On the subject of blade guides... I've seen the bearing captures & the steel flanged roller style. From here I've learned that I should probably use the bearings because I'm using pneumatic trailer tires for blade wheels. I do have a question though... is there anyone out there using UHMW blocks for guides? I've done a fair amount of machine design and building for automation, and it's always been a reliable bearing surface.

On Drive train engagement... I have a v-belt driven system... I'm wondering if anyone uses an electric pto (like you might have on a riding lawnmower). I'd like to know the pros/cons.

Blade sizing: You fellas running pneumatic wheels... how did you size your blades? Deflate and measure? Inflate and subtract a percentage?

Just a few things to ponder on a Saturday night by the bonfire.

Cheers!
John

Southside · May 12, 2018, 10:51:02 PM

Welcome to the forum John and thank you for your service.

mike_belben · May 12, 2018, 11:27:13 PM

York model 210 AC compressors have a very robust double sheave electric clutch. Its a tapered inner hub that i believe is keyed.. but not a hard thing to machine with a lathe and mill. Just wouldnt be able to slide it down the shaft for belt alignment. Youd also need to provide a good bit of 12vdc to keep it pulled in.

Many a mower deck is engaded by the much simpler back side idler on a bellcrank arrangement.

Den-Den · May 13, 2018, 10:42:47 AM

Quote from: seabeejohn on May 12, 2018, 10:32:53 PMBlade sizing: You fellas running pneumatic wheels... how did you size your blades? Deflate and measure? Inflate and subtract a percentage?

I measured while the idle wheel was fully retracted and again while it was fully extended. The blade has to be longer than the first measurement and shorter than the second measurement. I keep the wheels fully inflated and don't change the air pressure.

firefighter ontheside · May 13, 2018, 08:13:21 PM

Welcome aboard John. I love northern MN. I've spent a lot of time in the arrowhead. My log home came from Grand Marais. Enjoy the site. I know I do.

Ljohnsaw · May 14, 2018, 02:13:38 AM

Quote from: seabeejohn on May 12, 2018, 10:32:53 PMOn the subject of blade guides... I’ve seen the bearing captures & the steel flanged roller style. From here I’ve learned that I should probably use the bearings because I’m using pneumatic trailer tires for blade wheels. I do have a question though... is there anyone out there using UHMW blocks for guides? I’ve done a fair amount of machine design and building for automation, and it’s always been a reliable bearing surface.

On Drive train engagement... I have a v-belt driven system... I’m wondering if anyone uses an electric pto (like you might have on a riding lawnmower). I’d like to know the pros/cons.

Blade sizing: You fellas running pneumatic wheels... how did you size your blades? Deflate and measure? Inflate and subtract a percentage?

Just a few things to ponder on a Saturday night by the bonfire.

Cheers!
John

John,
I'm now using Cook's flange rollers and really like them. I started with just plain ball bearings but they kept failing when I use lube (water).

Now on my third motor. Started with a 2.25 electric (dc), 7.5 gas and now a 18hp garden tractor twin engine. This engine has an electric clutch - wouldn't switch that out for anything!

Blade sizing. I started with the cut size I wanted, found some donut spare tires (21.5" dia) and calculated how long a blade I needed. Turned out to be a standard size WM blade. I'm using 1.25" blades with a 7 degree tooth. With a new blade, cutting 24" width is not a problem. It does leave a lot of sawdust behind. I push my head until the engine just starts to bog so I know I'm cutting as fast as it can.

Holding logs - here is my second iteration - copied from another member. They work great.

Last upgrade is a wheelchair motor to raise and lower the head. Wow - what a great time-saving feature!

Post some pictures when you can, and welcome to the forum!
John

Jeff · May 14, 2018, 07:13:58 AM

The title of this topic is NOT OKAY. I am going to change it. I'm going to welcome the new guy and I am also going to say, please read the rules of this forum. This forum is a family friendly website and we take that very seriously. I figured that is what the title meant but was asking to be sure. I removed my question and the ensuing response as well.

seabeejohn · May 16, 2018, 12:48:23 PM

Hi Jeff,
I apologize for the "inappropriate" title... I guess "friendly new guy" isn't acceptable. I'll have to learn the lexicon. In the future, I'll do better to leave no room for interpretation.