Fresh cedars for porch columns - seal how?

[Andy G]

I have saved some cedar logs for porch columns on a new home. I peeled the logs today, but am unclear on what I should be doing for sealing them. Seal the ends only, or the entire log?? And what do I use to seal?  Internet advice is all over the place, and I'm hoping someone here knows what to do.     They will be stored outside on stringers for a couple months. In northern NY.  If anyone can help with info, I would appreciate it. Thanks. 

[Brad_bb]

Are you planning to keep them whole to use for posts?  Or are you planning to mill them?  Are you asking about sealing the end grain? or the live outside face of the log?

If you're going to mill them, you typically seal the ends(anchorseal) to make them dry more slowly and evenly, so moisture isn't going out the open end grain, which would make them dry unevenly and end check.  They will get trimmed later when you cut your post to actual length.  Even if you're keeping them in log form for the post, I'm assuming you will need to trim them to length just before install, so in that case, seal the ends as well(anchorseal).  With hardwoods, end grain sealing is a must.  I'm not sure about Cedar.  It's probably more stable than hardwoods, but it doesn't hurt to end grain seal it.

If you're keeping them whole, I'd store them out of the sun so they don't gray/bleach out.  Then later after install, you want to protect the live outside of the log to keep their color.  Permachink has  products that will help you do that.

[doc henderson]

the red heart wood is fairly rot resistant but oxidation (sunlight and air) will gray it.  the sap wood will rot easily.  if you want to keep the red color you will need an uv protection in the finish.  I guess I am assuming eastern redcedar (juniper)

[Jljude]

Doc, or anyone, quick question.

I am building a small pergola over top of my grilling area, and I may have jumped the gun.  I bought freshly cut cedar posts that are 6x6 and the Toji Grid bracket system.  As I began researching the best UV and sealant for the posts, I realized I can't seal them until they are dry.  

If I were to seal the ends, install the full pergola (ends are inside the brackets), and then in the coming spring, when I expect their moisture to be lower, then pressure wash them off, sand and seal?  I just don't want to store these in my garage until they are dry as I'm wanting to use my pergola.  Will they warp or have other damage besides graying?  I assume I can pressure wash and get the gray off and then let dry before coating?  Any help would be appreciated.

[Don P]

As far as "other problems". Exposing those green timbers to harsh drying conditions will increase the amount of checking and warping. The outer shell is drying and shrinking really hard over a still green and fat core. Gentle uniform drying is nicer to the timbers. Cedar is one of the more forgiving woods. In log home construction I would try to have the clients put on the first coat immediately and consider it a sacrificial coat to help moderate surface drying.

[doc henderson]

It may help to know what type of cedar, and what degree of rustic you will tolerate.  notice I said assuming ERC.  

[beenthere]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum. Help to go to your profile and give some location info. Could change what answers are given to be better help.

[kantuckid]

I re-did both of my 20' porches and screened the front porch, maybe 10 years back. I replaced peeled pine support posts with ERC 6x6's I'd sawed from larger than typical log, so mostly heartwood. They (everything except ERC floor which I airdried) were installed green and once porches and ERC new floor was all done I used Cabot's Australian Timber & log oil on it all. No serious cracks or seasoning issues on those posts. The railings are all 4x4 ERC horizontals, very unlike to be FHA legal ;D. I used SS screws FWIW.
Doc's correct that ERC when exposed to weather will easily rot. I used peeled small poles, ~ 4" dia, of ERC to build a 40' exposed decks railings and they were rotting in a couple of years and replaced with PT wood.
Another e.g. is the concrete spring box that spring water flows into from the ground pipe is topped with an ERC sawed 4/4 top which has alu sheeting covering it. It's now 40 plus years old as it stays wet always.
My porches the 6x6's sit directly on ERC blocks on the ERC porch floor and no issues as it's under a roof overhang. Some minor season cracks but not much really.
My "degree of rustic" was to lightly sand all wood surfaces with a DA sander using 180 grit and leaving behind obvious traces of band sawed markings, but it's a log home so rustic was a choice.