Mulitple questions on various Timberframing techniques

[bigshow]

Removing bandsaw milling marks from a timber:

power planer?? i have a Makita 6", but if i have an already good square piece of timber straight from the mill, it seems like the planer doesn't want to do much if there are no major high spots.  If i dial the planar to plane more deeply - it'll remove the bandsaw marks eventually, but will leave deep tracks where I've been with it.  So, on a 6"+ face - I end up with some serious issues.

Sanding?? seems like 60 grit on an orbital will do it..takes time..but eventually they come out and not as fussy as the planer is.  How about a Belt sander?  I'm having quite a bit of success with that as well.  Seems like the planer 'should' be the tool for the job given the potential speed and clean cut it 'should' leave.

Basically, i guess my question is...what are you guys doing to get the finished surfaces on your timbers that will be visible when erected and skinned??

Large Kneebrace curves - whats a good affordable technique to get a curve in a brace that is too big for the bandsaw  beam cutter?  chainsaw?? do you dare attempt with a sawzall with robust blade and sand down to clean lines??


thanks...

[Jim_Rogers]

You can power plane them if you want but you do already understand what happens.
Maybe a combination of both, plane some and then sand out the lines leftover.

To get curved braces we start with curved stock and leave the round edge for show....

If you don't have curved stock then you can use a standard bandsaw (if you have one) and cut the curves and then sand out the bandsaw lines.....

Good luck with your project...

Jim

[Dave Shepard]

This is my Sargeant jointer. It is a very close copy of a Stanley No.8. It is 24" long with a 2 5/8" blade. Many people laugh when I suggest using one on a timber, but it works very well, especially on band sawn timbers. After all, with band sawn, you are only looking to remove .020" or so, maybe less, just the high spots from the band. I take the corners back on the plane iron so it doesn't leave those lines like the power planer does. On oak, you can't match the smoothness of a hand plane with any power tools I've used so far.




Dave

[moonhill]

I as well round the edge of my hand plane blades.  It makes a big difference.  It has a rounded blade, which leaves a shallow cupped cut, I think, adding to the texture of the surface.  I use different techniques, with the length of the timber, at an angle, and in different directions around knots.  I am not concerned with flatness, therefore use a jack plane in stead of the jointer which Dave shows.  I also think hand planing can be quicker than sanding, a sharp iron is needed.  I plane after joinery. 

Curved stock can be cleaned up with a spokeshave, this leaves the same finish as the jack plane and is, by no stretch, faster than a sander for cleaning up chain or band cut curves.  The key is a sharp blade, a dull edge is.... useless. 

Dave, nice shop bench.  I have a couple of machines just like the one in pieces, they aren't use as much as others, I don't like the retraction mechanism.   Tim B.

[Don P]

I just use a little power planer set very fine, work about 3' at a time and clean up with an orbital. After a bit you get the zen-fu to feel for flat. I don't necessarily run with the grain, I'll shear across it if I'm digging. Some days my zen-fu is poo-poo and it ain't a good day to do that kind of work. I have a set of power planer blades I rounded the edges on but I haven't chucked em up in a long time.

A walk behind floor sander works too.

[Dave Shepard]

moonhill, I only slightly rounded the corners on the iron, not like a scrub plane. The center 2" is still sqaure to the cut, this helps to prevent the lines from each pass. I have also used a No.3 for cleaning up smaller pieces. I have a Stanley No.53 spokeshave, which is flat bottomed, but will still shave a curved piece.

The boring machine is a Swan Premium. The base was warped, so I am making new pieces. The jointer is sitting on one of them. I have used Swans before, and didn't have any trouble with them. One had a neat feature that kicked the rack out when the mechanism was raised all the way up. I'd like to try a Millers Falls. Someday.


Dave

[moonhill]

I find it easy for me to sharpen the blade the way it is, the stone is dished as well and I use it for my slick too.  I have not done this on purpose but like the results very much.  I use a flat stone for some items.  I sometimes set the blade out more on one side of the slot and work the wood from one side cleaning as I progress.  I have a Lie-Nielsen scrub and love it, that has a much more pronounced rounded blade.  I have seen some people use a blade with square edges, it leaves a line.  I could see it if it is used only for edges of boards. 

I have been sawing for two frames, timbers and boards and am looking forward to joinery full bore after the blueberry harvest this August.  Tim B.