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motor for steel city table saw

Started by blaze83, November 22, 2020, 10:40:54 AM

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blaze83

Hi Everyone,

been away for along time (years) but am hoping someone might now how I can get a replacement motor for a steel city table saw. I know they went out of business in 2015, haven't had any luck finding parts
I'm always amazed that no matter how bad i screw up Jesus still loves me

firefighter ontheside

I believe the Steel city saws were made in Taiwan just like a lot of other saws.  You may be able to cross reference your model with something like a current grizzly and be able to use parts from grizzly.  What model do you have?
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firefighter ontheside

Did you try this number?  They may have discontinued it.   877-724-8665 
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

blaze83

Thanks for the ideas, I'll see what I can track down tomorrow.
I'm always amazed that no matter how bad i screw up Jesus still loves me

sawwood

 American Grinding in Kansas City Mo was a Steel dealer. They may have some parts left over.

 816 561 1776.

 Sawwood
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sawguy21

old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

kantuckid

Google images shows a fairly conventional electric motor using the saws name? 
Ebay is your answer if your a tightwad buyer like myself? FB marketplace & CL too.
The mfg is the last place I'd look, other than the specs which are on your motor.   
 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

woodworker9

If you pull the motor, or take a picture of the tag, it'll have the ratings of the motor, and also the Frame type.  You can purchase any motor you want that has the same rpm's and frame mount.  A slightly bigger hp motor is never a bad thing.  

Depending on the frame mount, there are literally hundreds of thousands of table saw motors floating around.

Post a picture of your tag, and I'll help you find a good replacement.
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kantuckid

Much depends on sealed vs. un-sealed if a woodworking tool motor. My 8" jointer has a motor that weighs more than a kindergarden kid and huge but only 1HP. It lives under the machine in a relatively clean place and has been happily churning away for a very long time in my use alone, not to mention my GF who used it before me. It may belong in the Smithsonian? ;D Seriously. 
My Delta bandsaw is a 14" USA built one bought new in 1974. I think it's on the 4th motor, some bought much less $$$ as not the exact right choice for sawdust exposure but cheaply bought. They cam with ~ 1/2 or 3/4 motors but I like a 1 or 1.5 in modern motors which never seem to live up to their ratings? 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Pfordhp2b

I'm wondering if anyone can help me with this. I've got a 10" steel city table saw that one of the capacitors went bad on. I don't use the sew but the guys that work for me do, so I don't know a lot about them. One capacitor was melted so I order 2 just to be safe. I replaced both and the motor seemed to be spinning correctly. Once the guys hooked it back up it ran hot and the motor itself started to smoke. Upon doing some research I've learned that there are many different options and if you don't get the correct ones you can overload the motor. Below is a picture of the tag on the motor any help with the type of capacitors I need to order would be greatly appreciated. 

sawguy21

I hate to say it but if the smoke got out the stator winding is burnt out. Best option is to replace the motor with a NEMA certified closed frame unit.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

rusticretreater

I do not see a motor tag picture with your posting.

Yeah, the capacitors are important for start-up and then continual operation.  There is usually a start up capacitor and an run capacitor.  They are not the same.  When you say the capacitor was melted I can only say...how much?  Most capacitors will bulge, split or leak oil, but rarely melt severely.

If the motor is fairly old and has seen a rough life, you are better off getting a new one.  Electrical items that get to smoking temps don't live long afterwards.
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btulloh

Probably a shorted winding made that cap go bad. Definitely new motor time. 

You should be able to find out the NEMA frame # and buy one easy enough.  That frame type is used on a lot of things and widely available from many sources. Just match the NEMA frame #, voltage, hp and you'll be good to go. Make sure it's a TEFC motor (totally enclosed fan cooled). 
HM126

Pfordhp2b

Thank you all for the responses. Sounds like I'm in need of a new motor:)

Don P

It's always more fun if you put a big block in a Vega. Having put a 5 horse on a craftsman 10", it was unstoppable but the bearings and trunnion were not happy. The oem motors on most saws are wimpy for rough hardwoods. There is no replacement for displacement but watch the weight if you upgrade.

low_48

Centrifugal start switch in the motor could be stuck.

sawguy21

Those motors are not worth repairing, the smoke escaped.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

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