Buying a Used Timberjack 230

[Kelster]

Hey Guys,
I'm looking for some buying advice, as in 'what to look out for' when buying a used Timberjack 230 skidder.  

Considering buying a model 230 with a GM 3-53N engine which I can pick-up for around $3500.  

It needs some engine work - the previous owner pulled the injectors to have them inspected, put them back in and now he can't get it started.  I'm thinking the injectors need to be Timed and possibly replace the Fuel Jumper Lines.  Would I have to pull the injectors to find the model #?

The fuel tank needs to be cleaned as it's been sitting for a while. There are some leaky cylinder seals, worn pins, it's missing the air cleaner and needs a battery.  Tires are in decent shape and the winch works.

I'm not into commercial logging but I have a woodlot where I cut about 10 to 12 cords yearly.  I also need to brush-out about 2 to 3 km of fence lines where I have a ton of small to mid-sized Spruce and Poplar trees that I need to be cleared.  I'm also planning to buy a portable sawmill.  So I have lots of reasons (excuses) to buy a machine.

Any advice, suggestions or sources for parts would be greatly appreciated.  I'm in Western Canada, BC
 

[barbender]

Sounds like a project, do you want one? If I'm looking at something I can't hear run, I pay only as much as it's worth to me if the engine is shot- regardless of what the owner says. If it was simple or cheap to get it running, they would've done so already and got more $$$ for it.

[Kelster]

Sounds like a project, do you want one? If I'm looking at something I can't hear run, I pay only as much as it's worth to me if the engine is shot- regardless of what the owner says. If it was simple or cheap to get it running, they would've done so already and got more $$$ for it.

It will be a project.  I have more time than cash and I have some friends around that know a lot about these machines and how to keep them running, so there's nothing here that scares me.  I figure I'll gamble a few hours and dollars, gather some parts and hire my neighbour who's a fulltime HD mechanic.  If it doesn't run or if there's something seriously wrong with it I won't be buying it but I'll have to hire someone with more smarts than me to help figure it out.

[thecfarm]

 If I'm looking at something I can't hear run, I pay only as much as it's worth to me if the engine is shot- regardless of what the owner says. If it was simple or cheap to get it running, they would've done so already and got more $$$ for it.

Listen to him. Might be alot more than the injectors was put in wrong.

[Kelster]

If I'm looking at something I can't hear run, I pay only as much as it's worth to me if the engine is shot- regardless of what the owner says. If it was simple or cheap to get it running, they would've done so already and got more $$$ for it.

Listen to him. Might be alot more than the injectors was put in wrong.

I'm listening.  I haven't heard the machine run yet and there won't be any money exchanging hands until I do hear it run.  Thanks.

[BargeMonkey]

 For 3500 even if the engine is blown your ahead if the rubbers decent and the machines not a basket case. 
 When the guy pulled the injectors did he just pull the rockers off or got goofy and loosened everything up ? Didnt hook rack linkage back up right ? Something binding ? Made sure the governor wasn't jammed ? Unit injectors, order 3 new ones and throw the other ones away, you get 1 bad one and normally the others aren't long for life, contaminated fuel does them in and I wouldn't trust them. Jumpers are easy, they will crack at the flares, I would gently snug them when you have the injectors back in, run it and check them, where most of the fuel dilution problems come from on a detroit other than a hole in an injector body. 
 Make sure you've got clean fuel, you can actually run it off a 5gal pail and some hose, I would knowing the tanks dirty. Make sure rack linkage is free. Is the blower door tripped ??? Theres a couple brass fittings in the fuel system, doesnt take much to pick up some junk and plug a 45/90, air will go and you think your good, went thru that on my 353 230Jack. Alot of little simple things with these engines, normally they run or they don't, they can be TIRED and still run. 

[barbender]

Part of what I'm getting at, is if you are not skilled in repair and you have to hire this out, you can quickly have much more into it than you would've just buying an operational machine. I can get a running cable machine around here, that can pull wood now, for $5000. Runs drives winch works tires hold air=$5000. I think they go cheaper up here because there were armies of cable machines in the 70's cutting pulp, everything went to mechanical harvesting after that. We don't have the markets for big pine and hardwood other places do, so all the cable machines have been relegated to mostly firewood and hobby machines.

[barbender]

Plus, don't listen to Barge- he's going back on a boat because he can't handle the woods😁

[BargeMonkey]

Plus, don't listen to Barge- he's going back on a boat because he can't handle the woods😁

They are paying me 2x time to sit and watch the boat for the holiday, I'm ok with that. 🤣 Loaded my log truck this morning, parked everything, be in lower Manhattan shortly. 

[BargeMonkey]

Barbender is right, you can get in over your head if your not wrenching yourself BUT in my area a thrashed jack brings 8-10-20k, 353s are readily available, if it's not beaten right into the ground 3500 still is cheap. 

[Corley5]

$3,500.00 sounds like a good deal 8) 8)  Projects can be fun 8)  I got overloaded with them and have learned to turn them down.  Just turned one away a couple days ago 8) ;D

[ehp]

setting the rack doesnot scare me , what scares me is no air cleaner so I would guess the rings are done . I have not rebuilt a 353 in some years but use to rebuild them after supper in the logging camp , very easy motor to work on