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Central Boiler E Classic 2300

Started by Joyce Lehman, August 30, 2011, 03:29:50 PM

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doctorb

richesi-

I would forget the back up burner.  This stove doesn't really need one.

I would make the same suggestions to you that I made to Joyce on this thread.  If the fire won't burn, it's not getting enough air flow.  Focus on each of the areas described above, and it will work.  You will have to gain more knowledge than your dealer.  That experience is right here of the FF.  Use the search button above and call up the many threads describing 2300 problems and their solutions.  I am a 2300 owner who had problems at first, but who gained from those on the Forum.  My 2300 works well now, and yours can too.

When was your stove manufactured?  It is stamped on the plate attached to the stove?  The reason this matters has to do with upgrades the CB made after the intitial 2300's went out.  If you have an old stove, then a fan upgrade may be in order.  Have you drilled the extra holes?  Have you cleaned out the air channels, air holes, and solenoid intake?  There's lots to do to make this work. 
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

richsei

Well Doc
Thanks for the info but so far I have not seen a post on here talking about the auto wood ignition only lighting for 10 to 15 sec's then going out it will do this like three times then it comes up with fire out and shuts down the stove?????  By the way all the upgrades have been made to the stove and some that no other stove has. Instructed by CB trying to fix the problem.  And also I dont use the back up burner but it would be nice if it worked I did pay for it so it should work??.

beenthere

richsei
How is the auto wood ignition supposed to work?  I'd be interested.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

richsei

The auto wood ignition works like this. When wood auto relight is enabled the controller will automatically monitor the furnace water temp to determine if the wood auto relight cycle is needed. If the furnace water temperature drops 15 degs or more below the water temp setpoint, the controller will start the wood auto relight ignition sequence. The wood auto relight sequence may attempt to relight the wood up to three times within a two hour period. When the upper burner lights it will burn until the wood auto relight timer reaches zero it goes from 5min to 30min.

This is for the most part how the Wood ignition works also but I have to press the button for it to light the upper burner and I can set it to burn 5min to 30min.

All it is doing now is lighting for like 10-15 sec's then going out. That is on Auto wood relight and wood ignition.

Hope this helps

beenthere

Can you identify where and why it fails? Not staying on long enough? No wood burning before it shuts down? No wood to burn, or the wood is too largeor too wet to light? Is there an upper burner and a lower burner? Does the burner burn gas that in turn tries to light the wood?
I might be getting the picture here, but not sure I understand yet. ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

richsei

well where and why it fails is the $100,000 question if we knew the answer to to that we would know how to fix it...
When you press the button for wood ignition the upper gas burner will light but it only burns for 10 to 15 sec's then shuts down it is supposed to burn for the time you have it set for 5 to 30 min's. Its like the flame sense is not working but it has been change out with a new one a few times. and the upper burner was changed out with a new one two times I think maybe 3 times. Gas psi has been checked that is good. presser switch was changed out this is just some of the stuff.
As far as wet wood or to big goes you dont even need wood in the fire box for the wood ignition to work it will light and burn with out wood for a few min.
And yes there is a upper burner and a lower burner the lower burner is the gas back up burner if you have the stove set to use gas back up burner it will light the lower burner when you run out of wood in the fire box and this will heat your water. But I have never used my back up burner. Only tryed it to see if it will light and it will not dose the same as the upper burner.

doctorb

I guess I still am confused.  Not about the difficulties you report on the auto relight system, but why you need it at all.  I have never even hooked up the gas - duel fuel option on my 2300, because the fire in my OWB lasts for a minimum of 12 hours every day. The only relights I did last winter were for vacation time away from the stove.  I feed my stove twice a day, often after 16 hour periods from 5am until 9 pm.

I in no way mean to avoid your question. I simply think that gas relight system should be a seldom utilized superfluous luxury at best.  I would concentrate on burning more efficiently, gaining longevity from each wood load and keeping the fire constantly going rather than any malfunction in the relight system.  If you cure the first, the second is meaningless.  Hence my previous suggestion regarding the airflow issues, as, in my experience, it is inadequate air inflow that evenuatlly leads to the extinguishing of the fire. 
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Joyce Lehman

We just had a new E-2400 installed today to replace our 3 year old E2300. $4,800 more. Talked with the installers.  They said they would be surprised if there isn't a class action suit already.  Had any one heard of one? I am going to send all my information to my attorney general.  I think we have all been taken in.

ronwood

Joyce,

Not to be rude but why would you go back to Central Boiler if you are not happy with them? I don't think a class action suit is the answer to anyone's problem.

Ron
Sawing part time mostly urban logs -St. Louis/Warrenton, Mo.
LT40HG25 Woodmizer Sawmill
LX885 New Holland Skidsteer

Joyce Lehman

We went back to them because we had so much invested already. They gave us a trade in on the 2300. 

I don't see why everyone who bought the 2300 and now is trying to live with it isn't upset.  It's like buying a lemon car.  If you had to work that hard to make a car run right wouldn't you be upset? 

ronwood

Joyce,

I think if gave doctorb a chance he could of given you some help that could have saved you a lot of money.
Sawing part time mostly urban logs -St. Louis/Warrenton, Mo.
LT40HG25 Woodmizer Sawmill
LX885 New Holland Skidsteer

Joyce Lehman

I think my husband tried and was done with the e2300.  Life is to short to be out in the cold working on a piece of equipment that is crap.

Jeff

I sure can't blame your husband there Joyce. Sometimes enough is enough and it is better for the mind and the soul to just move on.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

doctorb

Joyce-

I expect that the improvements in design of the 2400 will make things easier on both you and your husband.  Best of luck.  As we have not had a lot of feedback on the 2400, would you please return to the FF and provide a review of your experience for the rest of us.  It would be greatly appreciated.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Joyce Lehman

We just got our 2400 installed.  We haven't needed heat yet but will keep everyone informed when we start it up.

muckamuck

I think I can offer a reason why the re-ignite burner only runs for 20 seconds.  I have an early 2300 dual fuel model.  What you describe sounds like the pre-ignition fan running to clear gas and smoke out of the firebox.  If I remember correctly here is what happens:
You push the propane ignite button and a fan comes on and stays on 20-30 seconds (I forget) then if you stand right next to the propane tank regulator you should hear a soft click and the sound of propane going thru the regulator.  In 2 seconds you should hear a soft 'woomp' from the firebox as the propane lights.  Gas continues to run...   Unless, you have a gummed up propane jet.  Then, instead of the woomp you hear the gas run about 5 seconds and then the propane and fan shut down (you don't want propane going in if it does not ignite, right?).  That is what is happening to you.  So,  the solution is to pull the wires off the propane jet in the back, unscrew the 2 clamps around the rubber tube and gently pull the propane jet out (still connected to the propane tube).  Clean everything, the jet, the tube into the firebox, and especially clean the little wire ignition that sits in front of the jet.  That wire has to be clean or no spark.  Reassemble and try again and listen.  From now on use the jet cleaner wire brush from inside the firebox as in my previous posts to keep the little ignition wire clean.
Hope this helps.
Muck

njcandyman

No its the Propane Regulator they must have gotten water in it. there is a little pin hole on the side of it and sometime it gets water in there and the regulator thinks there to much presser and it stops working. Replace the regulator and that will fix your problem

hookem75

I have an EClassic 2300 that I bought in 10/08 .  I had the typical learning curve but we are extremely happy with ours.  We had the fusion chamber thing replaced at no charge and we have the cracking in the air holes too.  I live in southern Mass so it can be somewhat temperate, but we burn all year long for hot water.  I found that loading the logs left to right instead of front to back was a huge change.  I no longer need the paper clip and the fire burns great.  We dont get bridging either.   Erik

doctorb

Erik-

What size logs, both length and diameter, are you burning.  I have had more bridging this year as I am using logs that are not split too fine.  tthis seems to happen more with 12-14" rounds that are split once - in half - so I'm throwing in a pretty large half-moon!  they're two years dry, and burn well, they just seem to bridge more often.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

hookem75

They are just long enough to fit side to side in the firebox, so maybe 16-18".  I split alot of large logs so I don't have many half splits.  My wood is bordering on green, but i make sure to run with the damper open when it is above 35 degrees because it goes too long between cycles.  Smaller splits seem to work the best.

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