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Band wheel rubber change

Started by climber2, January 18, 2018, 05:10:59 PM

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climber2

Ripped a wheel tire today when a blade broke. Please share any info on how to go about changing the rubber.
While it looks difficult, I'm sure there are some tricks out there that can ease the issue.
These are on a timber harvester with the 25 inch wheels for what it worth.
Thanks in advance!
Timber Harvester 36htd25, 06 Ram 2500 5.9, 95 Chev 3500hd, 445ct Bobcat w/ Wallenstein winch, Bandit 200+, Morbark M12r, Countless chainsaws...

Brad_S.

 If you do a search on the subject, you will find information. I once posted how to do it on a timber harvester but it's very hard to access it and copy it on my cell phone. I will see if I can find it tomorrow and post it and if I can't find it, I will write out the process again since i will have several hours to kill waiting for car repairs. It's not as bad as it looks, just a little bit of patience as needed.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

47sawdust

vise grip to hold in place,multiple screw drivers to work it into place, dish soap to lubricate and patience.Warm up the tire if you can.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

warren46

I have found that it is easier if you remove the wheel from the Timber Harvester mill when changing the band.  Both the driver wheel and the driven wheel are not difficult to remove and replace.  Take a measurement from the hub of the driver wheel to the frame of the mill before you remove it so you can replace it in the same place.  That way you can even do the work in your nice warm kitchen.  Well maybe garage would be a better choice.
Warren E. Johnson
Timber Harvester 36HTE25, John Deere 300b backhoe/loader.

Brad_S.

I respectfully disagree with Warren...changing on the mill as 47sawdust outlined takes only 5-10 minutes.

To expand on what 47sawdust said, warm the belt so it is supple. Begin mounting it starting at the bottom. When you can no longer get any more on, clamp the mounted belt with vice grips, they will be roughly 10 and 2 o'clock. Use two heavy duty screwdrivers and slide under the remaining belt and rest the blades on the wheel rim. The belt will flip when it falls into the groove so before I begin prying, I put a 180 degree twist on the belt so it will fall into the groove correctly. It does take some back and forth working...that's were the patience comes into play. If you make headway on one side or the other, keep moving the vice grips so you don't lose ground. I never tried detergent as lube but it makes sense. When the belt finally slips into the groove, it will probably still have some measure of twist in it and that can be removed by prying in, around and under as needed. I then take a mallet and pound the belt around the entire wheel to seat it evenly.

I would suggest doing both wheels to keep the belt profiles equal on each side.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

climber2

Thanks folks. 
One more thing, it appears I have no visible part numbers on these belts. Any chance someone knows what size I'm looking for?
25 inch wheels...
Timber Harvester 36htd25, 06 Ram 2500 5.9, 95 Chev 3500hd, 445ct Bobcat w/ Wallenstein winch, Bandit 200+, Morbark M12r, Countless chainsaws...

Hewer of Wood

A Gates B-76 is what comes on the wheels. They can be a real pain to replace. A B-77 goes on much easier without having to take the wheel off.
1997 Timber Harvester 1967 Pettibone Super 8 and too much sawdust. Joshua 9:21

climber2

Timber Harvester 36htd25, 06 Ram 2500 5.9, 95 Chev 3500hd, 445ct Bobcat w/ Wallenstein winch, Bandit 200+, Morbark M12r, Countless chainsaws...

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