Stihl ms 400 c. 28" bar

[Skeans1]

There has to be a reason why guys in pnw do what they do

Peer pressure would likely be one of the reasons. Gotta keep up the image set by others. Been that way for many a year, although the conditions also play an important part of which tool to use in the moment. Can't carry a different saw for every occasion into the woods. So smaller trees get cut up with a bigger saw that works for those bigger trees.

Have you ever cut or bucked anything on a slope steep enough the far side of the tree is above your head? There’s reasons something a 28 or 32 or 36 is still standard it’s also nice if you’re cutting all day in bar length wood to sight a face in without messing around, how about a back cut without checking the far side? These are some of the reasons you see what you see out here.

[barbender]

Like I say, I figure there is a reason you guys do things the way you do out there. I don't think anyone would lug a 32" bar around just for fun.

[Skeans1]

@barbender 
Look up @RHP Logging on here he runs longer bars out there all the time and cut like the PNW does.

[ehp]

When I'm cutting in bad ravines I go up on bar length cause I cannot reach the far side in bigger oak and I know I will not be bore cutting that side cause in most cases it 8 to 10 feet to the ground but the high side of cut is ground level , I carry in the truck up to 36 inch bar setups but most times its a 28 or the 32 inch setup if I have to use it . The 36 inch bar setup honestly most times get used on big walnut or the real huge oak . I lived out west in BC for over 3 years and worked in the wood industry but most in the sawmill end . But I can tell you I seen fallers on steep ground out there cutting stuff I really would not like , It's a total different game cutting 5 ft up on the stump trees and having to buck those trees into logs , to me that was by far the most dangerous part , seen guys bucking big trees up and standing on the low side on steep ground .that would be hard for me to do . I would want to be on the high side but in some cases that just cannot happen 

[DHansen]

Just my opinion, but sometimes it just makes the job a little easier or a little safer having the right tool for the job at hand.  I'll lug a long bar when it's needed.  And the girls think it's cool!

 

 

 

[King William]

I just purchased a 500i with a 36 inch bar to run on my Granberg Alaskan mill and it has plenty of power to spare and usually starts on the first pull. It gives you a 30 inch width of cut once it's mounted on the mill. The Stihl setup I purchased was around $1650.00



 

[Walnut Beast]

Congratulations on the 500! Looks like it’s getting the job done 👍

[barbender]

I bought this 500i hardly used, but it only had a 20" bar on it. So I had to put a "long" one on it, 24" Sugihara light. It balances nice and I think the light bar is lighter than the 20" Stihl ES bar. 

[ehp]

ya the 500i bounces out nice with a 24/25 inch bar setup 

[barbender]

 The guy that I bought this saw from put aftermarket dogs on it, the things are a little bit much. They eat up about 2" of bar length, and I've already speared a jug of bar oil with them🤦 I'm sure in a PNW situation with a long bar and trees with 4" thick bark they are the ticket, but they are definitely overkill here.

[Skeans1]

@barbender 
The three points are nice in the older growth style bark for sure, but one big bonus to them is they help keep the muffler cover off the bark when cutting or bucking. 

[barbender]

Copy that. About the only thing they will do me any favors on is the bigger pine we have. Otherwise I'm kinda feeling like Freddy Kruger at a balloon party😁

[cuznguido]

Longer bar than needed is a hindrance here, I've cut millions of ft of decent to large sized hardwood with a 20" via the slick stumping and sometimes notching in the sides to get at the heart method. 24" is what I normally run nowadays. I don't stand up and buck like that fool on YouTube. But to each his own and timber is different regionally. There has to be a reason why guys in pnw do what they do

Which fool on youtube?  Serious question.

[King William]

Longer bar than needed is a hindrance here, I've cut millions of ft of decent to large sized hardwood with a 20" via the slick stumping and sometimes notching in the sides to get at the heart method. 24" is what I normally run nowadays. I don't stand up and buck like that fool on YouTube. But to each his own and timber is different regionally. There has to be a reason why guys in pnw do what they do

Which fool on youtube?  Serious question.

Could be possibly speaking of Buckin' Billy Ray from Canada?

[ehp]

Barbender , I learned to cut with no spikes of and kind on a saw and the whole region did it that way , All new saws came in with just the smooth bumper on them and when I tried to use a saw with spikes it did not go well to start with cause the chain forsure on a saw without spikes is far more aggressive so with spikes your jammed up alot more in the cut. And you learn to cut all your far wood with your motor being as close as it can be to the wood your cutting then rotate towards you , It sounds stupid but time a cut and see , you cut faster doing it that way than putting the spikes in the log and rotating and cutting with the far end of the bar , Its just like guys saying put a 8 pin on a 372 , yes it will pull it but it will cut slower , I have had to show lots of people that , Its got a 8 pin gear so it has to be faster   well no it does not 

[barbender]

Yeah I'm sure I'll find less aggressive dogs for it, or a bumper plate. These things are over the top for what I do!

[ehp]

the stock dog setup works fine for out here , I have no problems  with mine 

[Woodfarmer]

My 500i’s wear 25” bars, I can’t see the 400 being happy with a 28”.