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Drive Wheel Adjustment?

Started by Buffer, November 18, 2014, 07:07:53 PM

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Buffer

Disregarding the drive axle, would the toe adjustment effect the operation of the mill, if it were on the drive side?
Stihl 026, Homemade Log Arch, LSG3033H FEL, Bandsaw fabrication in progress. Now Done. Thats a First

bandmiller2

Buff, not sure what you want to know but any adjustment of the band wheels drive or idler has a big affect on tracking. Nearest thing I can compare it to is a belt sander and adjusting the belt so it tracks on the rollers. To some extent the crown on bandwheels helps guide the band. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Buffer

I'll exlain a little bit, I'm using the wheel, hub, cv joint, and axle out of a Pontiac Firefly (actually a Suzuki Swift but the same thing). The axle will be held in place with 3 pillow block bearings, the drive pully driven from the engine is in-between two of them so there is no unsupported shaft end. I have the wheel hub rigidly mounted with 5/8" plate bolted into a fixture that allows me to adjust camber and toe. Everything I've been reading points to the driven or idler wheel having the toe adjustment. Have I made a mistake having the adjustments on the drive wheel? The driven wheel has the tension adjustment but is not easily adjusted for toe.
Stihl 026, Homemade Log Arch, LSG3033H FEL, Bandsaw fabrication in progress. Now Done. Thats a First

Den-Den

I think that your arrangement can work.  You will need to be able to adjust both wheels to get the alignment right but only one wheel needs to be "convenient" to adjust.  Once you get everything aligned initially, should need to tilt only one wheel with small adjustments.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

Buffer

Thanks guys, those are the replys I was hoping for. I'll continue on, only been working on it for a year now, be done in the spring.
Stihl 026, Homemade Log Arch, LSG3033H FEL, Bandsaw fabrication in progress. Now Done. Thats a First

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