Intro Post - Dad's old saw - Husqy 365/372 - Rebuild

[Somewhat Handy]

Hi guys. This will be my first thread after lurking several years. To summarize, my Dad passed away at the beginning of December. The two of us cut a lot of firewood with this saw when I was younger. I haven't used this saw in years and I don't know what condition it's in so I've decided to go through it stem to stern and learn more about it before I fire it up again. I hope to get a little homestead of my own going soon and this saw figures highly in those plans, maybe powering a granberg mill at some point. I'm following some teardown videos by Matthew Olson atm and I'll post photos as I go in case someone else finds this useful.

I should also point out that this saw looks like a 365 Sp with a few 372 Xp parts added later on. May just be cosmetic stuff. We'll see.

Edit:
If you're just starting your first saw build like I am, let me recommend that you buy one of these cantilever parts organizers. Let's me sort parts and fasteners in groups by location on the saw and the order I removed them. The bins mesh into the tier or lid above so I could turn the whole box upside down and not worry about things getting out of sorts. These boxes also stack, so you could keep adding boxes as you start projects, but the resulting tower of parts takes up little floor space. I really like these. One is plenty to sort the small parts for this saw. The rest goes in a rubbermaid tub. I haven't been real descriptive about the fastener sizes as I removed them, but I will try to mention them all when I put this saw back together.


 

 

[mike_belben]

Sorry to hear about your dad.  


I suggest you pull the muffler and look inside plug hole to verify the piston and bore arent scuffed.  If not, id try to run it unless youre sure its got issues. 

[sawguy21]

Welcome aboard,, pull up a stump. What Mike said, do that before going any further. If all is good and you have spark rebuild the carb with a fresh diaphragm/gasket kit and replace the fuel line and impulse line. They harden and crack with age. That is a tough saw but might be underpowered for a mill. Try it then decide.

[Somewhat Handy]

Ok. I'll have a look there first. I couldn't see much through the plug hole alone, but I'll see what it looks like with the muffler off. This saw is dirty. My dad wasn't the most mechanically inclined and I doubt his saws got much attention unless they stopped cutting. I also noticed that the chain brake doesn't seem to engage. I seem to recall this mechanism snapping into place when it was working. Now it just swings free.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Somewhat Handy]

The clutch/bar cover looks pretty bad.

I think it's missing a plastic guide piece here:

  

I also think it's missing a piece of rubber flashing here:

[Somewhat Handy]

I'd also say that there are only two original handle screws left. 


 

[mike_belben]

No big deal.  The filthy air cleaner matters more than the mismatched handle screws. Order a filter and the plastic chain guide block, i wouldnt worry about the mudflap, most of my saws lack them.   

Get the clutch off to oil the clutch bearing.   Plug the carb with clean paper towel, pull the muffler and plug that, then you can blast the thing with ether and air to degrease it.  Just watch your eyes. You want the jug fins to be clean for cooling.  

[Somewhat Handy]

Seeing how much dirt is caked in with the chain brake lever, I'm not surprised that I don't get the normal "click" action that I'm accustomed to. I hope cleaning the gunk out fixes it. Is their some type of of pawl mechanism inside there? We'll see.


 

[Somewhat Handy]

I thought one of the muffler screws was stripped. Nope, just an imperial fastener what should have been an M5. Par for the course, I guess.

[Somewhat Handy]

Can't see much of the cylinder interior from here, but things are looking pretty sooty. I really don't know what the piston skirt is supposed to look like through the exhaust port. Think I'll call it a night for now. Thanks all.

 

[mike_belben]

Pull the chainbrake cover and youll see the big spring toward the rear and a small detenting spring toward to front that rides in a picket with i believe a plastic cap over it to follow the contours on the brake lever. 


Piston is juuuust starting to gall in the bore a bit, note the scuffs on the very top of the crown.  Good news is youve caught it early.

[Al_Smith]

Looks to me to scuffed by carbon build up perhaps from a restrictive muffler .If it were mine which it's not I'd pull the cylinder,clean up the piston and decarbon the exhaust port .Might not be a bad idea to look at the muffler etc . I've seen them a lot worse than that still run just fine after a little clean up .

Like grandma used to say,sicker cats than that have lived .

[Somewhat Handy]

Washed her down and popped off the chain brake cover. I can see more dirt than parts under there. A little metal chunk tumbled out as I was lifting the chain brake cover (sitting on clutch in last picture). Maybe the pawl I was expecting to see?


 

 

 

[Somewhat Handy]

I don't see this little guy in any spare parts diagrams. Hmm....


 

[Somewhat Handy]

Cleaned up the brake lock and lever. I think the dirt caked in behind the brake lock may have prevented it's full range of motion. I'll come back to this side later when I'm ready to look at the clutch.

 

[Somewhat Handy]

Now the starter cover.

 

 Missing a cover screw. No cracks and the starter pulley looks in good shape. Plenty of spring left. Just needs cleaned.

[Somewhat Handy]

Ignition and flywheel seems to be all there. 

 

No cracks in shroud.



 

Ignition coil cleaned up ok, but the cable insulation is pretty thin in a couple spots. Will replace cable.

 

 

 

[mike_belben]

Chainbrake detent block looks right to me, im not sure what that little tab is.  Hmm.

[Somewhat Handy]

Now the gas tank and trigger group. This appears to be the remains of a chain catcher. Will replace if available.

 

Uh-oh. Looking for third screw attaching handle and I realize there is a big chunk missing from the crank case housing. This may be a parts saw now. What do you guys think? Would it be safe to run this way? Might need to look for another 365/372 to complete this little project.



 

 

[mike_belben]

I think that tab came out of your clutch. 


If the crankcase isnt leaking id keep it. My 372 is on a chinese crankcase.  The only issue was the impulse line being different.  I dont remember how i solved it but it only took a few minutes.

[Somewhat Handy]

It's not leaking as far as I can tell. I'm just worried that the brake band may not be secure anymore. There's a stud at the end of the band that looks like it was secured in a recess on the chunk that's missing. I also think the missing chunk might have been bridged to the handle with a rubber damper, which is long gone. I also dislike that the clutch is now unshielded. I might keep it if I can jury rig a new piece to keep the clutch shielded, maybe jb weld a strip of aluminum around the damaged area. I don't doubt the saw has been run this way for some time, but I'll be on the lookout for a new crankcase, nonetheless.

[mike_belben]

I think i paid like $70 shipped for mine, probably from huztl.

[Somewhat Handy]

Are Huztl parts good quality and fit? The prices sure aren't bad.

[mike_belben]

I dunno, kinda subjective.  Not near as good as oem, not near as expensive.  If all i could use was oem, itd be a broken saw sitting in a box right now for lack of funds.  Instead it cuts a few cord a month and i scrape by.  

Huztl has been the best chicom stuff ive used. Though not without the occasional flaw to work around. Have rebuilt many saws top to bottom with their under $60 kits.  Many werent worth investing much more.  I port most jugs and hone most bores myself so that removes some of the flaw factor. 

[Somewhat Handy]

Pulled the carburetor off. It's a Walbro HD 12A 912. I'm gonna replace all the rubber lines and gaskets- probably the cylinder boot as well.  

 

 

 
Had to wait on pulling the boot after the cylinder because the band clamp was rotated such that a screw driver couldn't access it.

[Somewhat Handy]

Got the cylinder off. Lot's of carbon residue inside. Ran my fingernail around it's circumference and it would catch here and there. Not sure if that's just residue or actual scoring. This one measures 48mm ID which is stock I believe. I think I'd like to upgrade to the 372xpw cylinder on this saw along with the taller air filter. I think the crank may be reusable, but I'll probably get new bearings. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Somewhat Handy]

Anybody know what the threading size is for the flywheel shaft? I'd like to make a fitting that will hold a degree wheel when I get down to timing later. Thanks.

[Al_Smith]

Do what you want about that piston but if you want you can buff it out and it should be fine .A low spot won't hurt you but a high spot could because it can break the surface tension of the oil film which is thin anyway .That saw can go a long ways before it ever dies on the vine . 

[Somewhat Handy]

Is Emery cloth a good choice for cleaning out these cylinders? If compression is still good afterwards, I guess that's what really maters.

[mike_belben]

Carb cleaner will break down the gum.  A ball brush hone with ATF is better than emery cloth but make due with what ya got i guess.  

I use a drill chuck to hold my degree wheel.  Itll chuck onto any flat crank end regardless of thread pitch or diameter.

[Al_Smith]

 3m green pads and kerosene work well .They are light abrasive and don't leave abrasive residue behind .Some people wind strips on an arbor and use a  drill to rotate them.I just use old fashion elbow grease .The end results are the same,mine just takes longer .I once used a flap wheel on a die grinder and ground right through the plating,haste does make waste at times . 

[Somewhat Handy]

Ok. Good suggestions. Thanks!

[Somewhat Handy]

Pulled the piston yesterday. There's probably a specific tool for this but I just used a brass punch backed up by a 2x4.


 

The ring snapped during removal. Debating if I should just replace ring for $9 (Caber) or get a Tecomec kit that includes piston, wrist pin, Caber ring, etc for $14.00.


 

Soaked the piston and cylinder in chem dip for 30 min, followed by scotch brite scrubbing and 1 hour soak hot pine sol and distilled water, then a full day in chem dip while off to work. The piston and cylinder cleaned up nicely, smoother than I expected. The only thing that refused to clean up was the exhaust port. I resorted to scraping at it with a dentist tool, which removed about 60% of the exhaust carbon before I gave up.



 


 

 

This is probably the worst area on the piston, just above the ring groove.



 

[Somewhat Handy]

Next pulled the flywheel with a puller I made from 3/16" flatbar I had on hand. Be sure you don't lose the little springs and washers backing up the starter pawls when you take this apart.


 

 

 

[Somewhat Handy]

Next up is the clutch group. First an e clip retains everything to the crankshaft. 



 


 

Next comes what looks like a preload or spring washer and the chain sprocket.


 

Then the clutch drum. Looks slightly corroded.



 

I'll post more tomorow... dozing off.

[Somewhat Handy]

Now that the clutch shoes are exposed I can see a loose piece. I'll find out later this snapped of the shoe itself.



 

Since this dissasembly happened a little out of order there wasn't much left on the saw to arrest the crank for clutch removal. I wound up using a stick of pine wedged between the counterweights and the crankcase. The planing stop on my bench came in real handy as a back stop for the breaker bar. That's the standard 3 prong clutch tool - I've seen several people make these out of 1" sockets. Don't forget, the clutch is left hand threaded, so righty-loosy.




A video would have been better to demonstrate the removal of the shoe clips, but basically you just need to push a flat blade screwdriver against the lip and rotate down on one ear, then repeat the motion on the other ear, so that the notches escape the shoe. Repeat x3 .




Here you can see where that loose chunk belonged.



 

I'll be replacing the clutch, but for curiosity's sake I found that the shoe was still 3.72mm thick. The service manual suggests replacement at 3mm.

[Somewhat Handy]

Next came the chain brake spring. Just lever up the far end and pull out to the left.

 

 

The rest of the brake band will lift out if you pry just under the attachment points.



 

 



Service manual says I need 0.8mm thickness on the brake band. Should be good then.



 

[Somewhat Handy]

Now for the oil pump stuff. First the pump pinion (looks like a plastic propeller) just rotates off with finger pressure.



 

 



Now remove the oil tube, first by lifting up the rubber shim on the right side. Then rotate and pull up and out.

 







  

Then remove 2 allen screws and the pump should lift out with some gentle prying.



 

 

This part doesn't look complicated and the spline teeth look good, so I'll keep it.





I also noticed a washer and bushing under the pump. Stored these away so they don't get lost.



 

[Somewhat Handy]

All that's left at this point is a crank in a crank case. I'll go back over the pulled parts now and make a list of what I'm going to purchase.

[lxskllr]

Good thread. Thanks for all the pictures  :^)

[Somewhat Handy]

Good thread. Thanks for all the pictures  :^)

You're welcome! It might be kinda long, but I'm always grateful when somebody else takes the time to show me all the little details I could miss on a project like this.

[Somewhat Handy]

Below is my shopping list thus far with prices, parts numbers, and suppliers. The wait-and-see list at the bottom is for stuff that was really costly on shipping or I may be able to substitute for cheaper or homemade alternatives, or I'm still determining condition of the original part.

Sorry for the formatting, the forum text editor isn't playing nice...

Parts
    Prices    Description                                HUSQ Reference #

• $0.99x2 Bar cover bumper                  501 51 72-01

                    hlsproparts.com

• $8.80 Chip Guard next to clutch          503 76 29-02

                    huztl.net

• M5x25 Screws for muffler

                    Fastenal or TSC

• $1.42 Cable for ignition coil

                    huztl.net

• $0.85x2 Chain catcher

                    huztl.net

• $8.88 (2) Fuel Filter                             503 44 32-01

                    OEM from Amazon

• $40.00 New Crankcase Half                503 62 68-08

                    Used OEM from Ebay

• $0.69 New metal bar plate                   537 04 66-01

                    huztl.net

• $39.99 New Clutch                               503 74 44-01

                    NOS from Ebay

• $9.85 Diagram/Gasket Kit for Carburetor (KT-K10-WAT) (K10-HD)

                    OEM from Amazon

• $14.83 New HD Air filter                      503 81 80-04

                    OEM from Amazon

• $9.49 New piston ring

                    hlsproparts.com

• $15.33 Three Bond 1184 gasket sealer

                    Amazon

• $5.99 Crankcase gasket                     503 62 72-01

                    husqypartsdepot.com

• $0.99 Exhaust gasket                         503 77 59-01

                    husqypartsdepot.com

• $11.99 New clutch side seal               503 26 03-01

                    husqypartsdepot.com

• $7.99 New flywheel side seal             505 27 57-19

                    husqypartsdepot.com

• $29.98 (2) New crank bearings          503 81 78-01

                    husqypartsdepot.com


Tools

• $9.99 Piston ring clamp                     502 50 70-01

                    hlsproparts.com

Wait-and-see / Cosmetic Stuff

• Top Cover (cosmetic)
• New Huztl Muffler (More flow?)
• New muffler heat shield?
• New intake pipe                           503 96 45-01
• Replace all exterior screws with stainless
• Clutch side seal extractor                502 50 55-01
• Flywheel side seal extractor            504 91 40-41
• $5.57 EPA tube                           503 40 06-06

                    hlsproparts.com

• $4.36 Fuel tank line                        544 32 50-02

                    hlsproparts.com

• Clutch drum bearing                       503 43 20-01
• Piston wrist pin bearing              503 25 56-01
• $17.40 Crankcase splitter               505 51 61-01

                    huztl.net

• New rubber protectors for handle connections

[01crewcab]

You're doing a bang up job. Just read thru your parts list. I have a 372XPW. The muffler on it is pretty much open on the inside. You can? perhaps find a factory jungle muffler on ebay. I did, but it was a while ago. Looks like some pretty poor oil was run thru it judging from the carbon build up.

[Somewhat Handy]

Thanks, 01crewcab. I'll probably wait until the thing is back together and running before I mess with muffler upgrades, etc. so I can see the before/after effects. I wouldn't doubt that about the oil, or maybe that's blow by from worn out piston ring?

[Somewhat Handy]

Hmm.. Got the carb kit in the mail. Started taking it apart and realized I had the wrong kit. The metering diaphragm didn't match. The carbsunlimited website listed the wrong kit. Walbro's site didn't even list the HD-12-A anymore. I think what happened is the HD-12-1 part # replaced the HD-12-A. Every image I can find of an HD-12-1 carb looks just like mine. So, I'll return the K10WAT kit and order the K10 HD kit instead - that metering diaphragm matches, at least. Next time I'll do a little disassembly and compare photos before digging in.



 

 

 

[Somewhat Handy]

Got the right Walbro repair kit finally. Also ordered an assortment of plastic baggies so I can group the little parts. Also labeled these baggies with the figure numbers in the service manual. I took photos of each part before removal so that I wouldn't get confused about their orientation later.



 

 Pump cover and gaskets, opposite side of carb.

 Fuel filter pulled with a pick. Note the debri.

 The HI- LO mixture screws. One is longer than the other.

 

[Somewhat Handy]

Now the throttle/choke lever arms, butterflies, and spindles.

 

 The butterfly plates seem to have a specific left/right or front/back orientation.

 

 Made note of where the springs were perched and how many times they were wound for tension

 

 

 

 This spring mounts in a tiny hole near the gasket surface .

 

 This little detent ball will fall loose if you aren't paying attention. Bagged it immediately.

[Jack S]

Looks like you are doing ok but one thing that folks miss is making sure the high and low speed orifices that exit in the venturi are clear. internally they are behind a soft plug where crap can plug them up I have salvaged a lot of carbs that get replaced because myself included didn't catch the plugged metering orifices if I'm using the right term. clean em soak em and blow  em out. Just think what in a metal carb could wear out? why replace it when usually it's just plugged with corrosion or crap. I hope this helps as I never seem to see this addressed. I admire  your determination in restoring this ol saw  Good luck Jack 

[Somewhat Handy]

Thanks, Jack. Unfortunately, I've already got the carb back together. The repair kit from Walbro didn't come with a new Welsh plug, of course. A video I was watching on this subject made the same comment. I'll go ahead and order the Welsh plug and work on the rest of the saw. I may try to run the saw and see if there is a before/after difference to be gleaned from cleaning those orifices because I'm curious.

[Somewhat Handy]

The carb parts are all cleaned now. Chem-dip followed with toothbrush and simple green. These photos may be kinda redundant, since I'm just going back the way I came.

Re-insert detent ball and set spring in this hole.


 
Re-attached butterfly and checked spring tension


 

 

This spring was a little trickier to wind. Ended up winding against the set screw with the spindle partially pulled out, then pushed the spindle home and pried the spring end into place with a pick.


 
This butterfly slots into the middle of the spindle, don't forget to match the original orientation.


 

Next comes the step lever (for lack of a better term). Bushing comes first, then you have to hold back the butterfly lever and gently rest the little guy in position and place the screw. Make sure you have your screwdriver in arms reach or you will probably have to start over.


 

 

 

[Somewhat Handy]

Now the metering and pump parts.

First the HI-LO screws.
 



The new fuel filter. Used a 3/16" socket to press home. A 5/16" punch fit nicely as well.



 

 

    

Next the pump cover, screen and gasket.



 

Now I prepare the new metering lever, spindle, spring and needle. Note the wear on the original lever (left side). I think I left the original needle in the carb body when I Chem-dipped it - not going to fish it out.



 



 

 

Securing the spindle is a little tricky. Gotta fork the needle onto the lever while simultaneously setting the dimple on that same lever in the spring, while aligning the spindle into it's groove. Have the keeper screw and screwdriver in arms reach or you'll have to start over.






 

Service manual says to check the metering lever with a straight edge so it is level with the surrounding gasket surface. I bent mine back down just a hair so the straight edge depressed the lever, but just barely.



 

Install the metering gasket, diaphragm and top cover. Carb is complete.




 

 

[Allar]

Sorry for your loss.  I really like what you're doing, keep it up.

[Somewhat Handy]

Thanks, Allar.

I built a crankcase splitter yesterday afternoon. I found one pretty cheap at Huztl for $17.50, but shipping was $30.00 and I didn't feel like waiting for it. I had enough scraps laying around anyway.

Transferred some measurements from the case.


 

 

 



Rough cuts from 3/16" flat bar.


 

Beveled the pieces together for welding. All you pro fabricators, avert thine eyes - it's gonna get ugly



 

Tacked the arms together so the final grinding will book match.



 

 

The metal curls a little bit after the welding, but that's easily straightened with a sledge and anvil.



 

Double check clearance inside the crank case. Removed a little metal from the lower backside of these arms.

[Somewhat Handy]

Using the flats in the cylinder base as my outer limits for these arms.



 

Transferred the limits to some 2" square tube, beveled the arms.



 

The arms just get an initial tack so, I can fine tune the final position in the crank case.



 

 

Once I like the fit, I add a strip of reinforcing metal to reduce moving while the fillet weld below is happening. This will be ground off later.



 

Had a half inch bolt and nuts on hand. These will become pressure screw. Left a little daylight between each nut to prevent bind up.



 

Used a couple more nuts on the opposite as spacers to keep the screw arms parallel.



 

 


 

Check the fit again from both sides of the case. Looks good.



 

Welding complete. I'll probably have to chase the threads with a tap, but it should do the job.



 

[Somewhat Handy]

Finally got around to splitting the crankcase.

Pointed bolt to center in crank end. 



 

Remove last screws.



 

 

 

Mount up the splitter. Everything that touches the crankcase got a dab of oil.



 

Have a soft landing pad ready.



 

A few turns an she pops open. 



 

The two original halves.





Insert flywheel half into splitter to press out the other side of crank.



 

Discovered skinny O-ring on flywheel side.



 

New and old halves side by side.



 

If it weren't for the missing chunk, I'd say the original half was in better shape. The new one has lots of pitting from corrosion.



 

I think I may try filling some of these areas with metal putty, at least where they may impact structure or gaskets faces. What do you guys think?



 

 

 

Old bearings. These are getting replaced.



 

 

[Somewhat Handy]

Removed the old bearings and recovered some small parts off the old case half tonight. Would have popped in the new bearings but I left them at work.  


Gathered up a mallet, a couple punches and sockets to tap on things.


 

Pulled off rubbet/plastic bits while oven is heating to 390 deg F.



 

Let the case soak heat for 10 minutes and tapped out bearing with 5/8 socket.



 

Repeat on clutch side. Also scavenged wrist joint pin for chain brake and the two bar studs.



 

Also scavenged this little plug. No idea what it does, but the plug on the replacement case looked pretty corroded.



 



Wrist pin installed in new home.





Checked fitment of new and old. Pretty amazed how well they match.



 

 

Spare bar studs and case alignment dowels



 

These bearings seem pretty well cooked. Nothing smooth about these.



 

Numbers etched on side confirm I've got the right replacements.

[Somewhat Handy]

Got the bearings home. Cleaned up the case halves one more time. Scoured as much residue from the mating surfaces and cylinder base as I could with scotch brite.

Cold, the new bearings will not drop into their recesses. If they did, that would mean my cases were worn beyond repair.





Heated to 390 deg F (the cases, that is) and the new bearings drop right in, no fuss.

[Somewhat Handy]

I don't like to think that corrosion will eat up the work I've done. The corrosion seems to start in thin spots in the factory paint job and nooks that collect moist saw dust. So, I decided to repaint the crank case. I used VHT Hemi Orange engine enamel. Masked/plugged everything that didn't need paint, scuffed with 320 grit, cleaned with alcohol, sprayed the paint, let sit for a few hours, then baked at 200 deg F per the instructions on the can. I think it came out pretty close to original. You can see the busted case half below for comparison. I think the factory paint has a little more pop, maybe more red tint, but it'll be good enough for me.



 

 

[lxskllr]

Very thorough. You're doing a fantastic job on the restoration. It's looking great so far  :^)

[Somewhat Handy]

Thanks a lot! I just hope she starts up when I pull that rope in the end. :-\  I'll make a vid for the first startup. 

[HolmenTree]

X2, good job!
I wish I had the time and patience that you have when I did my work saw restorations. 
But I am taking my time on one though. ;D


  

[Somewhat Handy]

If I were making my living with this saw, there wouldn't be a thread on this process. I would have buttoned it up and got to work already. I'm also waiting on some other things to happen/materialize before I really go to work with this saw. Day jobs...

[Somewhat Handy]

X2, good job!
I wish I had the time and patience that you have when I did my work saw restorations.
But I am taking my time on one though. ;D


  

That thing looks beastly. Care to elaborate a bit?

[HolmenTree]

I built it 35 years ago, Yamaha YZ 125 motorcycle engine with a 42mm snowmobile carb.
Putting out 40hp+ at the crank .

Totally rebuilding it to right hand drive and get it down to the weight of a Husqvarna 3120XP making it still competitive today in modern times.

[Somewhat Handy]

I built it 35 years ago, Yamaha YZ 125 motorcycle engine with a 42mm snowmobile carb.
Putting out 40hp+ at the crank .

Totally rebuilding it to right hand drive and get it down to the weight of a Husqvarna 3120XP making it still competitive today in modern times.

So, your aim was to simply make a tree disappear in a cloud of sawdust?  ;D
J/K, you should post this in the diesels & such thread. I think motorcycle engines definitely qualify as alternative power....

[HolmenTree]

Motorcycle engines have powered the earliest 2 man chainsaws.
Danarm used a Villiers 250 cc motorcycle engine.
Even a 1938 Harley Davidson V twin 1200 cc on a Dolmar transmission in Sweden.
Harley / Dolmar chainsaw - Tree felling with Björn & Herje - YouTube

[Somewhat Handy]

Like a hot knife.... good grief. Thanks for the vid!

[HolmenTree]

Like a hot knife.... good grief. Thanks for the vid!

The engine was running great but what looks like old scratcher chain they were running needed some work to get it to feed right.
I'd love to see more history on that saw if I could read Swedish. 

[Somewhat Handy]

Gonna revive this thread with some reassembly photos. It's been a crazy couple years, huh? Long story short, we made it through Covid, I've made some changes at work to free up time for the real life, we finally bought some acreage with timber in southern  MO, and last week we had our first boy. 

The new place has a remote wood furnace and propane, but no electric heat, so we've been piling up logs from the previous owners' clearing work and this saw will be put to the test in short order.

I'm putting assembly lube on all the bearings, pins, and bushed components.





 

[Somewhat Handy]

Reinstalled the alignment dowels, buttered the crankcase gasket with some permatex ultimate black, then used the crank puller to marry the halves from the flywheel side.



 


 





 

[Somewhat Handy]

I kinda started tapping my own crank puller set back in 2019 and ran out of time on the project. This time around I sprung for the OEM tools. Don't make my mistake and order the pullers for later 3XX series saws(first picture)- the thread on one side of the crank is larger on the 365 SP circa 2004. The puller set in the second pic is the one you want for this particular saw.



 


 



 

[Somewhat Handy]

Next pressed in the crank seal, slipped on the bushing for the oil pump gear wheel, dropped in the oil pickup line, installed the oil pump with two screws, spun on the gear wheel, laid on the washer precedes the clutch assembly, installed the bar oiler tube and rubber bushing.




 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Real1shepherd]

Just skimmed through the whole thread...agree with most things but not all of it.

What oil ratio where you using and what oil specifically? What did the spark arrestor look like?

I don't know if you finished the exhaust port, but Dremel bits would do that nicely. As far as your piston;turn the jug upside down with a spark plug in place....drop the piston in the jug. If it floats down, it's highly usable. If it drops 'clunk', I'd think about replacing it with used OE.

Kevin   

[Somewhat Handy]

@Real1shepherd, I don't know what ratio my dad was using on this saw, but I'll be starting at factory recommended ratio and moving toward 40 or 50:1 after it's broken back in. I won't mess with port work untill I have one or two backup saws ready to go, but I'm doing the gasket delete for now, possibly followed by a custom muffler and unlimited coil if needed.

[Somewhat Handy]

Have people with lots of 362/365/372 husqy experience noticed the variability in the crank seals? I already had to reorder the flywheel side seal due to a big ID difference. Now I'm noticing that the clutch side seal won't seat tight and there is just a hairs width of daylight around it in that crank bore. I checked against the original case half and it's the same deal. I won't make the mistake of ordering from Amazon again.  :(

I'm gonna order a new seal specific to my model and year from partstree.com, but I wanted to float the issue in case I'm about to get the same result, since the oem part # seems to be identical for all generations of this saw. (503 26 03-01)

[Tacotodd]

You need new OEM case halves. Just get @weimedog to share his experience with AM cases & you'll see what I'm speaking about. AM cases are soft and the bearing pocket area (including the seal area) tend to get beaten out, although he can better verbally describe his experience & ordeal with. 

[Somewhat Handy]

@Tacotodd this is a used OEM case half. I think I just need a slightly larger seal, but I'm not sure where to get it. I think I could get by rolling the seal edge in aviation sealer before inserting, it's that close. If I could expand it a little, that might help, maybe in a vise or arbor press.

The original case half has the same size bore on the clutch side, ( that was the old case half in the last photo) so I think I've got the wrong seal somehow.

[Tacotodd]

I guess it's the pic that makes it like it is. I don't know at this point. Like you say, maybe try so "miracle" chemical that is available from a really reputable place and see how that turns out, because I want to know!

[Somewhat Handy]

Well. Partstree sent me a flywheel side seal instead of the clutch side.  :-[

So, I'll try the aviation sealer instead cuz I'm sick of this merry-go-round.

I applied 1 coat, let that tack up, then applied a second thick wet coat.

I was happy to see a nice bead of sealant pushed up all around the bore.

I'll let this cure overnight before going further.



 

 

[Somewhat Handy]

Guh.... finally figured out what I was missing on that clutch side crank seal 

Courtesy Matt Olson:
Husqvarna 372xp clutch side bushing seal - addendum to my build vids - YouTube