saw mill barn rafters are on!

[Durf700]

put in a good 11 hours today but was able to get the rafters up and purlings with the help of a few guys

 

 !!!  hopefully next Sunday the steel will be going up.  can't wait to just be able to mill again.. the barn is 28x48 with a 20' opening in the center for log loading and a 12' wide door on the gable end to get other equipment in in out. 

[btulloh]

Nice.  

When that steel goes on the roof you'll be dry.  Steel on the walls too?  Or B&B?

That will be a real comfortable and useful structure.  Nice place to saw.  You can start sawing out stuff for your next pole building.   :D :D

[thecfarm]

Looks good!!!!

[Bruno of NH]

Awsome

[A-z farmer]

Very nice sawmill building 

[Durf700]

Thanks! I'm doing black roof steel and 3 feet on the bottom as well. The rest will either be board and batt or lap siding. 

[mike_belben]

That shed is heaven sent. What i been trying to have my entire life. 

[Durf700]

That shed is heaven sent. What i been trying to have my entire life.

Thanks Mike.  I've been lucky and have had alot of good opportunity to make enough money to be able to cover the materials for projects like this.  I enjoy building and making things most of the time as well.  its not perfect by any means but I feel good about all the materials coming right off my property and being milled by me.  the only thing I purchased for material was the LVL beams for the 20' opening and the steel.  I will update post again once I get the steel on the roof. 

[Durf700]

Most if the steel is up!! A few more hours this week and it will be good to go! 

 

 

[stanwelch]

Very nice building!  Do you have electric source close?  Being able to saw out of the weather and sun heat is a blessing. Good job

[moosehunter]

Nice. Will it get a floor?

mh

[Durf700]

picking up the 500' of 350 URD wire today for 200 amp service along with meter pan disconnect combo and all conduit and stuff.  I had the pole set with electric company and transformer installed on it back in January..  should have power in a few weeks.  for now the barn will have a gravel /bank run floor and the rest of the driveway and area in front of the building will as well.  once you put in concrete they really hammer you on taxes!!  my current home also has a pole barn similar to this that I build back in 2016 and they raised my assessment by 45K which jacked up my taxes by 1500 per year..  after calling and complaining the assessor said " well you have a concrete floor right?" and I said no... which he came out to verify and then lowered my assessment by 25,000 dollars. 

so ya.. for now and until after I build a home on this land in the next few years I will not do concrete.  I will just use the tarp trick when I start milling in the building that i've seen on here or youtube.  then once I'm done milling for a day or 2 I will drag out the tarp that the sawdust sets on and dump it. 

[boonesyard]

picking up the 500' of 350 URD wire today for 200 amp service along with meter pan disconnect combo and all conduit and stuff.  I had the pole set with electric company and transformer installed on it back in January..  should have power in a few weeks.  for now the barn will have a gravel /bank run floor and the rest of the driveway and area in front of the building will as well.  once you put in concrete they really hammer you on taxes!!  my current home also has a pole barn similar to this that I build back in 2016 and they raised my assessment by 45K which jacked up my taxes by 1500 per year..  after calling and complaining the assessor said " well you have a concrete floor right?" and I said no... which he came out to verify and then lowered my assessment by 25,000 dollars.  

so ya.. for now and until after I build a home on this land in the next few years I will not do concrete.  I will just use the tarp trick when I start milling in the building that i've seen on here or youtube.  then once I'm done milling for a day or 2 I will drag out the tarp that the sawdust sets on and dump it.

Excellent job, great looking building. We're finally going to be able to start ours in Sept. as well. I'm going with packed class 5 as well, and haven't had any issue cleaning up our sawdust right off the class 5. I tried the tarp thing a couple times and got tired of that real fast. We've been cutting and cleaning up for a couple years on the packed gravel, works pretty well. 

[richhiway]

very nice work.

[Durf700]

thanks gentlemen!  finished the roof, rake edge and ridge vent tonight!  now I gotta finish a few mill jobs this week and then onto the black wainscot for the bottom of the building and the electric install from the road.  gonna be a busy few weeks but I will be very happy in a month or 2 being all dried in milling when its raining!!!  like I said, its not perfect but for only needing to purchase the LVL and steel I am super happy with my own milled lumber off the property.  it feels good!!!!

 

 

 

 

[Don P]

Whoa. You need some low rafter ties down close to wall plate level before snow load piles up on that. There isn't enough to keep it from toggling and spreading as it sits.

[Durf700]

Whoa. You need some low rafter ties down close to wall plate level before snow load piles up on that. There isn't enough to keep it from toggling and spreading as it sits.

what do you mean Don?  what is a low rafter tie?  I still need to install the wind gurters at my 6x6's and put in the 2x6 braces in between the double top plates that will be fastened to the ends of the rafters.  i'm also gonna take some 2x6x16s and run them on angles from the exterior wall across multiple rafters in a zig zag pattern. (not sure if i'm explaining that right. ) 

[711ac]

I would guess he means another "collar tie" similar to what you have now at about the upper third of your rafter "run" and they look to be about 12' long. I noticed that myself but your peak is tied also. Metal sheds snow well and while I'm no engineer, I think you'll be good. Besides another lower tie will be a long son of a gun. An alternate solution would be to run a cable from beam to beam at corresponding posts if that works out. Your "zig zag" I guess will be on the bottom of your rafters right? Just remember that you love triangles, buildings do for stiffness (racking).
Very nice building, I just got my first mill a few weeks ago myself and am thinking about how to lay it out. I'd love to have access from both sides (I think ;D).
I'd think about sawing out enough 1x to put on your bottom wall girts under your metal. With machines, logs, slabwood fllying around, and snow coming off the roof, and the resulting snow removal, you'll thank me later. That also provides a nice change in the "plane" of the wall and an opportunity to have a nice flashing transition to your b&b above.

[btulloh]

Collar ties are in the upper third of the rafter and prevent uplift of the rafters.  Rafter ties are in the lower third (many times at the top plate) and prevent spread.  (Just standing in for DonP on an easy question.  Thanks for all the knowledge you share DonP.)

[Don P]

Glad y'all did, I'm running long the past few days. If you do get a heavy dump on the roof those high ties and the connections are going to be under tremendous tension, carpenters call it thrust because the rafters want to push out the walls.

I'll work an example on this calc to show the difference in tension;
https://forestryforum.com/members/donp/raisedtiethrust.htm
Assume a 24' wide building with a 4/12 roof pitch
The single rafter span is 144"
If the rafters are all tied, so ties on 2' centers and you have a 30 lb snow load the load on the rafter is 720 lbs
at a 4/12 pitch the ridge is 48" above the plate
Assume the tie is at the plate so 48" from ridge to tie.
The tension is 1080 lbs

Now assume the tie is 12" below the ridge and run the calc again, the tie tension then is 4320 lbs. It is also putting that bending strain into the rafters at that point, a high tie is also called a "rafter buster".

Hopefully not being a party pooper but sure don't want to see that nice roof on your mill after a blizzard. As I drive around after big storms I'll usually see a few roofs that have "snapped thru".

[Durf700]

ok now I get what your saying.  I am adding a loft to the building which will tie the two sides together with 6x6 posts in the center on the back 16 feet behind tractor in pic.  I will be adding more bracing in the front 12' of the building where the smaller opening is that is 12' wide.  so basically 28' of the building will be tied together which should help alot with forces pushing on the sidewalls.   I like the cable idea to secure the walls together and that should not cost to much money in the center where the LVL is located. 

good ideas and advice guys.  I will definitely be doing more to brace it up better.  I kind of ran out of time prepping things and had a few guys lined up to help me with the rafters and steel so I had to run with it or reschedule the roof. 

the nice thing with the dark steel is even when its super cold it usually comes off in less than a day when we get snow.  I have a very similar building I built with trusses in 2016 at my home and snow never sits on it.

[Durf700]

Glad y'all did, I'm running long the past few days. If you do get a heavy dump on the roof those high ties and the connections are going to be under tremendous tension, carpenters call it thrust because the rafters want to push out the walls.

I'll work an example on this calc to show the difference in tension;
https://forestryforum.com/members/donp/raisedtiethrust.htm
Assume a 24' wide building with a 4/12 roof pitch
The single rafter span is 144"
If the rafters are all tied, so ties on 2' centers and you have a 30 lb snow load the load on the rafter is 720 lbs
at a 4/12 pitch the ridge is 48" above the plate
Assume the tie is at the plate so 48" from ridge to tie.
The tension is 1080 lbs

Now assume the tie is 12" below the ridge and run the calc again, the tie tension then is 4320 lbs. It is also putting that bending strain into the rafters at that point, a high tie is also called a "rafter buster".

Hopefully not being a party pooper but sure don't want to see that nice roof on your mill after a blizzard. As I drive around after big storms I'll usually see a few roofs that have "snapped thru".

I guess I will need to buy some 20' long material so I can get down to the bottom 1/3 of the rafter. I currently have the 10' rafter tie at the top set down 1/3 from the peak. I appreciate the info.  I will be sure to get it done by fall time.  I was already considering doing an additional tie but you convinced me to definitely do it.
thank you for the knowledge.  :( will be a little difficult but I was kinda thinking I needed some more support in there already.

[Don P]

Good deal, I know what you mean, we call it "running for the roof" trying to get dried in during a window in the weather or when we can get enough guys to be like ants on a cookie. Sometimes it'll be tender until I can get everything underneath finish framed.

[Satamax]

Durf700

I was going to suggest. Put huge steel I beams, as tie beams, at your posts. And run a big one the length of the building, with an electric hoist. Above your sawmill, with a pair of tongues. That could be handy. 

[711ac]

Don, with the 28' span for the best position for strength being almost impossible with out splicing, would a 18'-20' tie in a scissors configuration (like a scissors truss) be a reasonable fix in this situation? I always enjoy your "smarts"