Looking for Article and Plans for Home Dehumidifier Kiln

Snag · January 03, 2007, 12:29:54 PM

I had a magazine that had home dehumidifier kiln plans. Problem is, I havent seen it since we moved 2 years ago. I cant remember if it was out of wood magazine or american woodworker. I know the there are alot of cons to doing this, but I have about 500bdf of maple I would like to get dried and dont have the option of bringing it someplace. Thanks in advance....

Fla._Deadheader · January 03, 2007, 01:13:11 PM

American Woodworker #94 June 2002 pg 82 ;) :D :D

Got it in my hand as I type this ;D ;D ;D

Snag · January 03, 2007, 01:26:32 PM

Any chance of getting a photocopy or scan of it? I dont think it would violate copyright seeing as I own a copy of it... somewhere...

Fla._Deadheader · January 03, 2007, 01:40:30 PM

There's an International security law, that bans me from sending pirated copies or scans outta Costa Rica. :

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Besides, I don't have the means to do it, no way. ;D :D :D :D

Snag · January 03, 2007, 01:51:10 PM

Thanks anyway... maybe someone else will be able to..

Fla._Deadheader · January 03, 2007, 03:56:14 PM

Have you looked for their online article archives ???

I don't have a scanner down here, sorry. ???

Part_Timer · January 04, 2007, 09:19:30 AM

Snag,

I had that issue and sent it to Get Over It. Get a hold of him I bet he'd send you a copy. My kiln is like theirs, not so fancy but it works just fine. I don't like trying to dry green oak,osage or hickory in it, because of the lack of humidity control. I let those air dry for a bit then finish them in the kiln. I have had no problem with walnut,cherry,maple,sycamore, or hackberry.

My kiln holds about a 200bf charge. I've maybe dried maybe a couple dozen or so loads with a box store $100 dh unit and it is still working fine.

best of luck

Snag · January 04, 2007, 09:47:29 AM

Thanks for the replies. Funny, I just got off the phone with Amer. Woodworking and they are emailing me the article for $4. 8) I looked in more boxes in the basement last night and gave up. I knew if I was patient enough someone here would help me out, but I am pretty impulsive when I get something in my head I want it yesterday. :

I think the $4 is a great deal and saves from hassling someone. Thanks for the suggestion Fla_DHD and I appreciate you responding also Part_Timer. I am glad to hear your version of it is working ok. I take from your reply that the maple you dried was green? How long did it take to dry to what % and did you use a heat source other than the heat coming off the DH unit? I am looking at drying green 5/4 sugar maple for flooring. The Mrs is getting on my case to get some of the stuff done with the mill that I promised I would do when I bought it. Every time I get ready to saw, someone else puts in an order and my personal stuff gets backburnered. Thanks alot.

Part_Timer · January 04, 2007, 09:25:10 PM

Yes I dried mine from green. It was soft maple and I believe that it took 4 weeks to get it to 8%. I don't let mine run all the time though during the first couple of weeks, I shut it off at night and let the moisture come back to the surface. Kinda like a solar kiln works. Once I get the moisture to 12% I leave it run. No I don't use any heat other than the DH during the summer. During the winter I put a milk house heater to keep the temp up. my garage is not heated. I also do not condition the stack like the artical talks about, I haven't found the need. I do however leave the weight on the stack and open the front of the kiln and leave the fan run for 2 or 3 days to cool the stack off before I unload it.

What are ya making with the maple?

Snag · January 05, 2007, 07:50:25 AM

I plan on using it for hardwood flooring. I would let it air dry and then put it in the kiln, but my wife wants it asap. The next thing is to convince her that I need a new jointer. I'm not sure how to process the boards for flooring without one. I planned on running one face on the jointer, then with the jointed face against the fence, run one edge through, then rip the other edge on the radial arm saw then run through the planer for thickness. Any ideas on how to do it without the jointer?

WDH · January 05, 2007, 09:37:22 AM

I can't see how to do it right without the jointer, and if you are going to go through all that work to do it yourseld, you need to do it right. IMHO.

Snag · January 05, 2007, 09:55:30 AM

Right on WDH. I just need to convince my wife of that. She thinks I just like to collect tools. :

Well, actually I do. ;D
I saw a pic of Norm & Patty's Grizzly Jointer. I forget the model, but I have been looking at the same one....

Snag · January 05, 2007, 10:03:43 AM

Just looked it up... it is the G0593. 8" with spiral cutter. Here's the link.

Grizzly G0593

Norm, Patty or anyone else with this model, what do you think of it?

OneWithWood · January 05, 2007, 10:52:10 AM

I bought the G0490, similar but without the spiral head. I am happy with it so far.

WDH · January 05, 2007, 11:40:28 AM

I am going to upgrade to a 8" jointer, and I am wondering about the spiral head. I have heard mixed reviews, and it is about $300 more for the spiral head. Is it worth it?

Norm · January 05, 2007, 12:07:23 PM

We've had ours for about a year now and would not go back to straight blades if they paid me.....well maybe if the price was right. ;D

My only caveat would be that grizzly is not the best jointer out there but for the money and use I'd buy it again. I would most likely bite the bullet and get a 12" one if I was to replace it but would still get the spiral head. On another note I replaced my straight blade planer with the grizzly 20" spiral head. Now that was money well spent, quiet smooth and really little tearout in figured woods. Yes you do see some lines in it but they are easily sanded out.

WDH · January 05, 2007, 12:21:41 PM

To set standard jointer knives, you have to get the knives to just "kiss" a metal ruler held edgewise on the outfeed table over the knives. Takes a little adjusting, but not hard to do right. How do you "set" the spiral inserts in relation to the outfeed table? Seems like it would be much more complicated, but I am guessing.

Norm · January 06, 2007, 12:47:45 PM

On the spiral head the inserts are recessed into the head so no adjustment is necessary. One of the things I always hated doing was adjusting the knives in my planer a knuckle buster for sure don't miss that our the sharpening one bit.